• Title/Summary/Keyword: sinusoidally varying topography

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Bragg Reflection on a Sloping Beach (경사지형에서의 Bragg반사)

  • Lee, Jong-In;Jo, Yong-Sik;Lee, Jeong-Gyu
    • Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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    • v.32 no.4
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    • pp.447-455
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    • 1999
  • In this study, the Bragg resonant of cnoidal waves propagating over a sinusoidally varying topography lying on a uniformly sloping beach is investigated. The governing equations derived from the Boussinesq equations are numerically integrated. The effects of fast varying terms and nonlinearity in reflection coefficients are also examined. Variation of reflection coefficient for different sloping beaches is studied. It is found that reflection coefficients are not strongly dependent on slopes of beaches.

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Wave Reflection over Doubly-Sinusoidally Varying Topographies (복합정현파형 지형에서의 파랑 반사)

  • 김영택;조용식;이정규
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.13 no.3
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    • pp.189-194
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    • 2001
  • The present study describes the Bragg reflection of monochromatic water waves propagating over a train of doubly-sinusoidally varying topographies. A numerical model based on the boundary element method is firstly verified by calculating reflection and transmission coefficients of waves over a trench. Calculated solutions are compared with those of the eigenfunction expansion method. The model is then used to simulated reflection of monochromatic water waves propagating over doubly-sinusoidally varying bottom topographies. Obtained reflection coefficients are compared with those of available laboratory measurements, those of the eigenfunction expansion method and the extended mild-slope equation. A reasonable agreement is shown.

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Bragg Reflection of Obliquely Incident Waves (비스듬히 입사하는 파랑의 Bragg반사)

  • Jo, Yong-Sik;An, Yeong-Chang
    • Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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    • v.35 no.1
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    • pp.91-96
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    • 2002
  • The present research describes the Bragg reflection of obliquely incident waves propagating over sinusoidally varying topographies. A numerical model based on the boundary element method is employed. Wave numbers providing Bragg reflection are calculated and compared to theoretical predictions. The reflection coefficients obtained from this model are also compared with those of the eigenfunction expansion method. A very good agreement is observed.

BRAGG RESONANT REFLECTION OF OBLIQUELY INCIDENT WATER WAVES

  • Cho, Yong-Sik
    • Water Engineering Research
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    • v.1 no.1
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    • pp.75-81
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    • 2000
  • The bragg reflection of obliquely incident monochromatic water waves propagating over a sinusoidally varying topography is theoretically investigated in this study. The eigenfunction expansion method is first employed to calculate reflection coefficients of water waves due to depth changes. A reasonable agreement is observed. Obtained reflection coefficients of normally incident waves are compared with laboratory measurements. Reflection coefficients of obliquely incident waves are then calculated. The wavenumber providing the Bragg reflection agrees well with analytical predictions.

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Analysis of Bragg Reflection with Two-Dimensional Finite Element Method (2차원 유한요소법을 이용한 파랑의 Bragg반사 해석)

  • Cho, Yong-Sik;Jeong, Woo-Chng
    • Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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    • v.35 no.6
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    • pp.677-684
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    • 2002
  • In this study, a finite element model is employed to simulate the diffraction of waves caused by a change of water depths. The model is firstly applied to the estimation of reflection coefficients of monochromatic waves over a sinusoidally varying topography. Predicted coefficients are compared with those of the eigenfunction expansion method and laboratory measurements. A good agreement is observed. The model is then used to investigate effects of heights of bottom topography and number of ripples on variation of reflection coefficients of monocromatic water waves.

Numerical Simulation of Two-dimensional Breaking Waves (2차원 쇄파의 수치해석)

  • Il-H.,Cho;Hang-S.,Choi
    • Bulletin of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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    • v.25 no.4
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    • pp.1-6
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    • 1988
  • In this paper two-dimensional breaking waves of plunger type are numerically simulated both on an even bottom and on a sinusoidally-varying bottom within the framework of potential theory. Based on the boundary integral method derived by Vinje and Brevig, fluid particles on the free surface are treated exactly by using semi-Lagrangian time-stepping. Numerical instability, in particular when the wave front becomes vertical, is discussed and the regriding method of nodal points has been found promising. Numerical accuracy is examined in terms of the wave energy and mass conservations. It is also found that the bottom topography affects significantly and the hydrostatic pressure contributes considerably to the nonoscillating force acting on the bottom, when waves are breaking.

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Weakly Nonlinear and Dispersive Wave Equations for Random Waves (불규칙파를 위한 약비선형 약분산 파랑 방정식)

  • Jung, Jae-Sang;Cho, Yong-Sik
    • Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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    • v.38 no.6 s.155
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    • pp.429-438
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    • 2005
  • In this study, a couple of ordinary differential equations which can describe random waves are derived from the Boussinesq equations. Incident random waves are generated by using the TMA(TEXEL storm, MARSEN, ARSLOE) shallow-water spectrum. The governing equations are integrated with the 4-th order Runge-Kutta method. By using newly derived wave equations, nonlinear energy interaction of propagating waves in constant depth is studied. The characteristics of random waves propagate over a sinusoidally varying topography lying on a sloping beach are also investigated numerically. Transmission and reflection of random waves are considerably affected by nonlinearity.