• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.35
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• pp.293-304
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• 1997

This paper is a study on the expression of Clothing and Textiles recorded in $\boxDr$Eigamono-katary$\boxUl$This book is a novel de-scribed the Royal Court from 883 till 1107. In this book many kinds of Garments Orna-ments Colors and Materials were mentioned. But in this paper 69 kinds of Garments and Ornaments were reserched and the rest will be reported in the next paper, The discoveries of this paper were as follows. 1. All the things of this book were reflections of the reality in Heian period. 2. The main styling of that period was a little bit soft but the straight silhouette were fashioned, . In that time Clothing had a special meaning and the manner for a fashion was very important, .3 In the female garments Karakoromo were developed many kinds of pattern by dyeing method, Especially the Surizome was fashioned very much. 4. there were many kinds of gray tone like as clerical robe and mouning dress. This was the effection of Buddism style. 5. The decoration of fablics and garments were usualized for instance smooding and luster by beating and starch sewuing a piece of gold silver and shell nakabe and knot bend. Shawl Yumaki and Kosizasi was a charming point of that time, . 6, hair decoration shose parasol rain coat etc, . were developed and use freuently.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.5
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• pp.13-22
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• 2003

The purposes of this study are to develop a Korean image clothing design for cultural products by using the literary artist´s works and to satisfy the demand of the local self-government and of Gwangju ㆍChonnam area´s small and medium-sized companies. The image of traditional Korean clothing can be expressed with adjectives like Pure, plain, rhythmical, neatness, plentiful, and calm etc. These attributes are similar to the characteristics of the literary artist´s style, which is expressed as suggestive, animated, spatial, possibility of stationary, serene and still. The features of the traditional Korean clothing design can be described as ´The Beauty of Elegance´, ´The Beauty of Plainness´, ´The Beauty of Asymmetric Balance´ and ´The Beauty of rhythm´. It can be expressed in the modern fashion design, which is developed through the combination of the most important feature like ´The Beauty of Space´ in the literary artist´s style. At the time of production we tried to express spatial beauty and plentiful taste of the literary artist's style in the clothing design of Korean image for cultural products by considering the balance between them. Six works of the literary artist were selected which satisfied the purpose of the developed clothing design item. The results were nine clothing designs of Korean image, like a skirt suit made up of a blouse and a skirt, a pants suit made up of pants and a jacket, two evening dresses with a shawl, and also T-shirts and one-pieces etc.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.340-358
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to fundamentally examine the vests of the robes "Daeraebok" and "Soraebok" of the Korean Empire from the 1876 Port Opening to the 1910 annexation of Korea to Japan. Among the collections of different robes of the Korean Empire which belong to various universities and institutions, only the vests were surveyed. The shape of the vests in the Korean Empire were single-breasted and double-breasted. Most V-necklines and vests with a shawl collar look like a tailored collar, where the collar outline was shaped like a notched and picked collar, which is a mix of the step collar and roll collar of the 19th century. The rear center line was not flat, but inclined to a triangle. All vests of the robe Daeraebok were equipped with gold buttons, and those of the robe Soraebok had black satin buttons. The tailoring characteristic is that the front has a different material (dark black wool) from the back (black silk). This characteristic is expected to be an important basic piece of information in the restoration and reproduction of the vest, which was worn during the imperial period, especially to reveal its shape, characteristics and composition. This characteristic can also be used as data of cultural contents based on Korean modern history.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.231-238
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to identify characteristics and consumer attitude on purchasing apparel of Cable TV home-shopping viewer: A questionnaire was developed to measure watching attributes, consumers' attitude and actual purchasing condition of Cable TV home shopping, and demographic variables. The questionnaire was administered to 277 adult, and the data were analyzed by using frequency; crosstab, t-test, ANOVA. The results of this study were as follows: 1. main view time were 3~5 p.m. 11 p.m, 10~12 a.m. home shopping through Cable Tv. Women's main terms were afternoon, whereas men's main terms were night. Chiefly view program was about apparel and fashion items. The reason why they watched the home-shopping channel was to purchase more cheaper items. 2. Favor about Cable TV home-shopping was relatively affirmative, but purchasing intention through home-shopping was still negative. But affirmative response was gradually increasing a few years ago. 3. Purchasing experience through Cable TV home shopping was 61.0% and clothing purchaser within recently 6 months was 28.5% of total sample. Withspreading Cable TV widely; Cable TV home shopper was gradually increasing. Heavy purchasing items through Cable TV home-shopping were under-wear; muffler, shawl, because those items are standardized in size and style. When home shopping user made purchasing decision, the most significant factors were color; and size (fit), price in order of importance.

• Journal of the Architectural Institute of Korea Planning & Design
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.95-106
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• 2018

This study aimed at revaluating Frank Gehry's freeform constructions. To this end, the study analyzed the way the space composition and circulation system of general constructions are connected with newly extended parts in the Art Gallery of Ontario and, based on this, comparatively analyzed freeform constructions before and after the art gallery, finding out what changes were made in the exterior and interior spaces of freeform constructions built after the art gallery. The results of the study are as follows. First, starting from extending the Art Gallery of Ontario, Gehry came to use glass instead of metal as main material of freeform constructions. In order to create the circulation connecting the existing building and the extended mass, Gehry applied continuing circulation for the first time to the gallery. Third, in addition to design motives, such as the woodblock print depicting a carp by Hiroshige, still life depicting a glass bottle by Morandi and the crease of the shawl in Vermeer's paintings, which Gehry applied to freeform constructions, the design motif which was recently acquired from Pyrenees rock was added. Fourth, the trend of mall construction appeared before and after the Art Gallery of Ontario. Finally, Gary used the shape of fish as a design motif for his work at an important turning point in his Freeform Architecture.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.66-76
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• 1998

In order to investigate the effect of shoulder pad affecting the arm movement, eleven women volunteers of standard body whose age is from eighteen to twenty-four(x±1σ) were chosen and this experiment had done according to front-vertical motion, side-vertical motion and horizontal motion of upper limps for tow different materials of shoulder pad(sponge, non-woven) and four different thickness of shoulder pad(0.6cm, 0.8cm, 1.2cm). On the base of this, this study, when putting on shoulder pad, try to find the reform method of shoulder part pattern. The results are as follows. 1. When puting on shoulder pad to blouse pattern to rise shoulder pad for rate of two-third per thickness is seemingly the best for sensory evaluation. So, when putting on shoulder pad, we understand that in order to improve sensory evaluation. So, when putting on shoulder pad, we understand that in order to improve sensory evaluation of clothes, when that, rising shoulder pad for ate of two-third per thickness is the best. 2. From the results of measure of functional volume and physiological value for functionality evaluation according to thickness and material, motion of shoulder pad, 1.2 cm thickness and non-woven material is evaluated the worst for functionality. 3. From the results of sensory evaluation and functionality evaluation of material of shoulder pad, sponge material is superior for functionality but not for sensory evaluation, non-woven material is superior for sensory evaluation non-woven material is superior for sensory evaluation but not for functionality. So, think that it had better use sponge material for functional clothes, non-woven material for aesthetical clothes. 4. From the results of functionality of clothes, when putting on shoulder pad, the worst discomfortable parts are the armpit part and the shawl part, functionality of these part shoulder be reformed.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.29-47
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• 2018

This study aims at looking into women's costume style seen in 18th century to 19th century, and reason out a major decoration, then the formative and aesthetic characteristics of the decoration were analyzed. Research results are same as follows. Firstly, the style of women's costumes in the 18th and 19th century includes the Rococo style, Polonaise style, Neo-classic style, Romantic style and Bustle-style. The main decorations shown in these styles are the gather pleats drape of Fold decoration, the flat embroidery quilting of embroidery decoration, and the ribbon braid fringe button feather and fur of attachment decoration. Secondly, the analyzed results found the formative and aesthetic characteristics of the decoration in the 18th and 19th century women's costumes. Fold decorations appeared as a voluminous property in the form of gown mantua jacket pelisse and dress. Especially, femininity and exaggeration were expressed through greatly inflated skirts. Embroidery decoration appeared as planarity by making patterns of gown mantua jacket stomacher overskirt coat dress shawl and dolman. Especially, exaggeration and extravagance were expressed through embroidered mantua surfaces with peony rose poppy primrose daffodil morning glory tulip leaf and lattice patterns in variety of colored silk threads. Attachment decorations were mixed with elements of heterogeneity added to jackets, coats, gowns, petticoats, stomachers, mantuas, pelisses, mantles, dolmans, capes, overskirts and dresses. In particular, exaggeration and extravagance strongly expressed through the decoration with white fox fur at the hemline, neckline and sleeves of cream colored silk dolman.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.35-49
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• 2016

Dopo was the clothing of the Joseon period, which had a strong value of Confucianism. Apart from the kings and princes, government officers and Confucian literati wore Dopo as their official clothing and the uniform. The basic form of Dopo had the straight collar similar to Jikryeong. The difference is the shape of a Mu, which was fixed inside or on the back section along the side line of the front section and made two flaps on the back section. The clothing found in the tombs of Bae Cheonjo (1532~?) are from the mid-16th century to the early 17th century with the clothing style of the early Joseon period. The outer collar of all clothing was the shawl collar except for the Sibok and the inner collar was sewn to this. Two items had square tray collars, which were folded in half and sewn inside in half. The sleeve had a straight inseam from the armhole and its end around the wrist was round and wide. The carp-shaped inseam of the sleeve and wide sleeve indicated a change of sleeve shape. The shapes of the collars and the wide overlapped section of the dual collars demonstrated the shapes of the initial outer robes. The man's outer coats with wide sleeves were mostly cotton-quilted clothing. As described above, this paper examines the basic shapes of outer robes including Sibok, Jikryeong and man's outer coats on the basis of the clothing and artifacts from the tomb of Bae Cheonjo (1532~?) and examined the shapes, composition and features of Dopo. This paper aims to improve awareness of the wisdom and spirit of ancestors in life hidden in the sewing of the three Dopo items and on the importance of historical research.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.59-71
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• 2006

This study contemplates Croatian traditional costumes with focus on its geographical characteristics and acculturation with neighbor countries as a member of old Yugoslavian Union. Therefore, it contains the information from field works based on Croatian language, native costumes and folk materials wildly. Men usually wear wide linen pants ($ga\'{c}$), shirt ($ko\v{s}ulje,\;rnbina)$, vest (lajbek), hat and jacket ($kro\v{z}et$). Also they sometimes wear scarves or aprons. Women put on blouse, long skirt, apron, headgear with various decoration and scarf ($pe\v{c}a$), shawl (tibetui robe) or necklace together. Croatian folk dresses fall into three different styles by provinces, such as Pannonia, Dinar and Adria, according to the basic environmental and racial characteristics of each province. People of Pannonia plain generally wear white linen clothing and often use flounce and lace, which are influenced by Serbia and Hungary. In the Dinar mountain province, aprons with tassel, knitted vests made of leather and fur are very popular. The clothing of Dinar province has much commonness with those of Bosnia - Herzegovina and Montenegro which have metal buttons and belts. And the clothing of Adria coast is influenced by Italy a lot. There are many splendid silk clothes in its folk dress code. As mentioned above, there are a lot of foreign influences in Croatian history. Although there were severe cultural invasions in many times through its history, Croatians didn't just surrender to these cultural influences. People in Croatia comply with these new coming culture and reconcile these into their own tradition and dress code in their own way.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.173-183
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• 2012

This paper intends to find out any possibility that a traditional fan can be continuously used for design development of fashion cultural products which highlight the differentiated uniqueness of Korean traditional cultures. For this purpose, this paper will newly reinterpret design-based formative factors that the shape and the line of a traditional fan shows, and then, make a pattern. This paper studied the existing literatures of a traditional fan, made the shape of a traditional fan into a motif, using computer graphic programs, like Adobe Illustrator CS 2 and Adobe Photoshop CS2, and then, applied it to neckties, T-shirts, and scarves. Among various kinds of traditional fans this paper set 4 basic motifs of new formative images by use of the shapes of Dan-Seon and Jeob-Seon, and then, developed them into two basic motifs each. Pink, blue, purple, green, yellow, orange, and gray were used as the basic colors of the motifs, through which splendid, but calm images were planned. The design of a necktie, which used a developed motif design, was applied in the form of a repeated pattern, through which a calm image was expressed. 45o turn was applied to this design to make a striped pattern image or a refined and cheerful image. The scarf design was developed into a rectangular long scarf so it can be used like a shawl. The design of T-shirt was developed into three types: a round neck-lined half-sleeved box type; a round neck-lined sleeveless type; and a V neck-lined, tight half-sleeved type.