• Title/Summary/Keyword: sewing techniques

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Influence of Foreign Culture and Hybrid Culture: The Case of Kandyan Kingdom of Sri Lanka

  • Ranathunga, Gayathri Madubhani
    • International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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    • v.13 no.2
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    • pp.53-64
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    • 2013
  • Culture has played a pivotal role in fashion from time immemorial. The objective of this research is to explore the power of cultural affiliation in fashion. The selected study setting is the Kandyan Kingdom of Sri Lanka. The Kandyan Kingdom of Sri Lanka lasted almost 3 1/2 centuries from 1474-1815. The whole period faced different foreign cultural forces. As a result of such diverse cultural influences the Kandyan dress showed a hybrid formation of Western and South Indian and Sinhalese traditional sartorial features. Sewing techniques and unsewn dress arrangement methods were mixed together. The dress became an amazing blend of Eastern and Western dress items. They combined different aspects of foreign dress together to yield a unique result. The analysis comprises observational study of actual descriptions made by observer- participants, historical records, murals of the period review of ancient literature and research papers relevant to the subject. Reliability of the data was ensured. The pictorial data were cross checked from different literary sources. Many original sources were used. Results: Culture and fashion have strong interconnection. When features of culture change, trends of fashion are gradually correspondingly changed.

A Study on the Symbolism of Mourning Dress - Focused on Mourning Dress - (상복에서의 상징성 연구 - 상복저고리를 중심으로 -)

  • 정옥임
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.54 no.4
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    • pp.55-62
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    • 2004
  • The ceremonies were roughly categorized into four: coming of age, marriage, funeral and ancestral worship. Among them, the funeral was a representative example to show ancestral worship. As it symbolizes the worship to ancestors, its procedure was complicated and formalized. It was undoubtedly certain that formalized mourning dresses and complicated table setting for sacrificial services to ancestors were burdens. Although what was symbolized by mourning dresses was different depending on the wearers purposes, it was thought that no clothing had such unusual symbolism as mourning dress. When the composition of mourning dress was examined, it was shown that Taoism, family relation of Confucianism or symbolic clothing system of Shamanism were combined. Mourning dress first represented the Confucian idea of ancestral worship. For the composition of clothing in which a shamanistic element was inherent, forms of birds were used to guide the dead soul to the other world. In cutting out mourning dress, opposite concepts of Yin and Yang, and closure and openness were used to show a harmony between heaven and the earth. Male and female were represented through sewing techniques. The period of observing the mourning period depended on the degree of kinship. The degree to which the clothing was loose indicated the degree of sadness and kinship. Load blocks and tear pads indicated the degree of sadness. In considering the above indicators, family relation and filial piety to ancestors had a great effect on the form and details of mourning dress. Shamanistic elements as well as Confucian ones were inherent in mourning dress, which resulted in the combination of Taoism and Confucianism.

Arthroscopic Capsular Repair without Relaying Sutures: 'Simple Sewing Technique'

  • Kim, Hyungsuk;Song, Hyun Seok;Kang, Seung Gu;Han, Sung Bin
    • Clinics in Shoulder and Elbow
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    • v.22 no.3
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    • pp.146-148
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    • 2019
  • We report a simple technique for repairing capsular tear, using only a hook-like, cannulated instrument and braided sutures without relaying steps. A No. 2 braided suture is passed through the lumen of the instrument. Under direct arthroscopic view, the tip of the instrument is passed through the side of the capsule that has previously been separated with the probe. One end of the suture is retrieved with a grasper through a separate portal. The tip is moved back without withdrawing through the skin, and reinserted into the other side of the capsule. Holding the end retrieved earlier, the other end of the suture is retrieved with a suture retriever. After complete removal of the instrument, the suture is tied through a cannula using the standard knot tying techniques. The same procedures are repeated for other required knots.

A Study on the Development of Upcycling Textile Design and Digital 3D Utilization for the Sustainable Fashion Industry (지속가능한 패션산업을 위한 업사이클링 텍스타일디자인 개발과 디지털 3D 활용 연구)

  • Mikyoung Kim
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.27 no.5
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    • pp.108-120
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    • 2023
  • Recently, interest in eco-friendliness and sustainability has been increasing due to the rapid progress of fast fashion and the crisis of sudden environmental changes after COVID-19. This study aims to develop upcycling textiles and express product design using digital 3D to realize a sustainable fashion industry and present environmental aspects, diversity, creativity, and new directions in fashion industry design. The research method is to develop and pattern upcycling textile designs by applying weaving techniques with waste materials. It uses the developed upcycling textile design in digital 3D to incorporate it into clothing fashion and shows the utility and practicality of upcycling textile design. As a result of the study, the appearance is realistic when outputting DTP of upcycling textile design. It endures without loosening or tearing, making it a durable and creatively expressive fashion item. Texpro 3D mapping reduces the time and cost of making actual sample fabric. Upcycling textile design and 3D CLO virtual clothing are combined to produce actual clothing samples, resulting in zero waste reduction due to cutting and sewing. This study anticipates actively and continuously advancing the development of upcycling textile design and digital 3D in terms of ethics and the environment.

Types and Characteristics of Women's Embroidered Handicrafts of the Joseon Dynasty (조선시대 자수 규방공예품의 유형과 특성)

  • Kwon, Su-Yeon;Jang, Hyun-Joo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.59 no.4
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    • pp.1-13
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    • 2009
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the types of and figurative characteristics of in women's embroidered handicrafts of Korea. It also aims to revive Korean traditional beauty, to examine the applicability of Korean traditional design that has both modern beauty and practicality, and to develop Korean women's embroidered handicrafts. The types of women's embroidered of Korea include Jumoni (pouches), Bojagi (wrapping cloths), and other accessories made by sewing. Jumoni consisting of 55.51% of them was the most frequently used handicraft followed by Bojagi (8.66%), and other accessories (35.83%). In terms of the patterns used, animal pattern and plant pattern were used the most frequently. In addition, complex patterns using two or three patterns together(70.49) were more frequent than singular patterns (29.53%). Pictorial type of pattern arrangement (58.24%) was used the most frequently and dense type (39.76%) and sparse type (2.00%) were followed. In terms of the materials on which embroidery was used, Dahn (85.82%) was used the most frequently followed by wool (5.67%), cotton (4.26%), silk (3.55%), and Sa (0.70%). Various techniques of stitches were used such as outline stitch (40.56%), satin and running stitch (29.32%), French nut stitch (28.11%), long and short stitch (21.28%), double leaf stitch (20.88%), and so on. Among them, satin stitch (63.05%) was the most popular type of stitch techniques. Strings (23.56%), maedeup (Korean traditional knots, 8.62%), or tassels (9.77%) were also attached for the purpose of both practicality and of decoration. There were some cases that added cloissone or red-pepper shaped decorations.

A Study on the Three-dimensional Expression of Fashionable Textiles based on Analyses of 3D Scanning and Textile Properties -Focus on the Work of Iris van Herpen- (패션소재의 입체적 표현에 대한 3D Scanning 및 소재특성 분석 연구 -Iris van Herpen의 작품을 중심으로-)

  • Lee, ReA;Kim, Jongjun
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.20 no.2
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    • pp.124-133
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    • 2016
  • Currently the fashion industry is developing to create a novel culture due to the very sensitive and knowledge-oriented advancement of the IT industry. With fast turnover of information, consumers have come to have a more diverse desire for purchasing. Cubical expression techniques, which empathizes formativeness, can be a creative expression method adjusting into the trend of this era. Along with functional aspects of consumers, even in a textile manufacturing sector, new materials are required to meet sensitive and emotional aspects. Consumers' desire for new and creative designs and the development and adoption of new materials are essential to meet their emotions. The IT industry and fashion industry are forced to combine and a 3D apparel CAD system has been developed, enabling virtual clothing to be represented within a computer virtual space. All processes such as design, pattern creation, sewing and simulation are possible in 3D level. Digital clothing can shorten the production process time and is very effective in that it can reduce clothing waste generated during the sample production. This paper reviewed the works of Dutch designer, Iris van Herpen, who has developed formative designs. She tries to build, construct, and sculpt employing diversified materials other than soft textile materials, as shown in her series of fashion shows. The materials include films, 3D printed polymers, stiff and sheer organza, and artificial leather textiles. A few characteristics of her works have been selected in order to prepare patterns exhibiting the traits. The paper further focused on the physical features of the textile materials used to express similar techniques and its various forms were reviewed.

A Study on the Current Trend and Implication for Development of Gyubang Craft (한국 규방공예에 대한 실태조사 및 활용 방안 모색)

  • Lee, Youn-Soon
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.10 no.3
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    • pp.111-126
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    • 2008
  • This article aims to discover the current status and appropriate way to research Gyubang craft, expecting its development and preservation, and elevating it to Korea's unique artistic textile culture. It also searches improved methods for Gyubang craft as the following: First, in order to avoid confusions about Gyubang craft, appropriate concepts and definitions of Gyubang craft must be settled through a discussion among experts. Second, by activating economic activities at lower ratio, among purposes of Gyubang craft, achievements must be elevated. Third, in order to settle down the difficulties of Gyubang craft, a variety of methods such as effective sewing machines and manufacturing techniques as well as providing materials at a reasonable price, considering practical ways through diversifying products, elevating the economy of crafts, exploring sales routes, improving educational contents, and expanding educational places must be facilitated. Fourth, for nurturing talented and excellent human resources in the area of Gyubang craft, the followings should be considered: diversifying contents of education, developing textbooks, improving instructors' quality, providing reasonable cost of education, educating on the utilization and application of Gyubang craft, introducing efficient teaching methods through textbooks and multimedia, awarding 'certificates' to trainees, and permitting certificate holders' to instruct Gyubang craft. Finally, it is convinced that the achievement of production, pride of preserving tradition, pleasure of procedural work, economic activities as experts, and sales of products will be reinforced, and the population for Gyubang craft is also expected to increase. By elevating Gyubang craft into Korea's traditional textile art, Korea's global competitiveness in the area of textile should be strengthened.

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The Preference and Purchasing Intention of Traditional Design by Characteristics of Traditional Culture Values and Preferred Style Image of Traditional Design (전통 문화 가치관 특성에 따른 전통 디자인의 선호 및 구매 의도, 전통 디자인의 선호 스타일 이미지)

  • Kim, Seon-Sook;Kim, Angella Ji-Young;Ko, Eun-Ju
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.34 no.7
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    • pp.1053-1064
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    • 2010
  • This study investigates the Korean loungewear market and the traditional culture values of consumers related to loungewear to examine the preference of Korean traditional details, sewing techniques in loungewear design, and purchasing intentions. A survey method was used in this study. A total of 230 self-administered questionnaires were obtained from female consumers and 214 data sets were used for analysis. For the analysis, factor analysis, cluster analysis, and ANOVA were executed with PASW Statistics 18.0 and a structural equation model was estimated by Amos 18.0. The results are as follows. Traditional culture values were classified into two dimensions, traditional succession value and traditional design preference value. In the structure equation model, the traditional design preference value had a significant effect on the preference and the traditional culture succession value had significant effect on purchase intention. The results proved that the preference on loungewear with Korean traditional elements is closely related to purchase intention. Consumer groups were divided into three groups by traditional culture values factor; traditional culture succession group, traditional design preference group, and traditional culture indifference group. Style preference images showed significant differences in relation to traditional culture groups. This study is for use as fundamental knowledge on traditional loungewear brand development and strategy planning by offering specific traditional culture aspects associated with preference and purchase intentions.

Modified Bentall Operation and the Double Sewing Ring Technique -2 case reports- (변형식 벤탈수술; 이중봉합링 수술법 - 2예 치험 -)

  • Kim, Tae-Yun;Lee, Jung-Moon;Choi, Jong-Bum;Kim, Min-Ho;Jo, Jung-Ku
    • Journal of Chest Surgery
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    • v.43 no.2
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    • pp.156-160
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    • 2010
  • The Bentall-DeBono operation is the technique of choice for aortic root replacement. When the patients have contraindications for lifelong anticoagulation, the biologic Bentall operation may be a good option. However, complex reoperation may be required when bioprosthetic degeneration occurs. For this reason, a new technique for simple reoperation after the Bentall operation has recently been performed by some surgeons. We performed a similar technique in two patients with aortic root dilation and for whom aortic valve sparing techniques could not be performed because of an unrepairable valve contour, we think this modification seems to be simple and reproducible for reoperation.

Development of Culture Goods with Traditional Lady's Art Craft Work (전통규방공예를 이용한 문화상품 개발)

  • Song, Jung-A
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.13 no.4
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    • pp.472-477
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    • 2011
  • In the tide of globalization, culture products play pivotal role in effectively introducing our tradition and culture to the world. This research is about developing culture products using our traditional lady's art craft work to attain the purpose of modern application through recreation of tradition along with modern technology. First, the types of traditional lady's art craft work include pouches, wrapping clothes and other accessories made by sewing except costumes. The materials used were cotton, silk, ramie, hemp and decorating techniques involved were embroidery, patchwork, quilting, knot. Second, the purpose of this study is developing culture products with traditional images which also satisfy modern sense. Therefore, items that could be used readily in daily life were selected. Such items include bags, mufflers, name card cases, brooches. In addition, the Korean traditional Patchwork images which have both western-style and modern sense were selected out of the many kinds of traditional lady's art craft works. Third, cultural products (bags, mufflers, name card cases, brooches) were created by DTP in silk with sacdong and free-styled division Korean traditional Patchwork images and quilting technique. The significance of this study lies in examining the possibility of developing modern culture products using traditional lady's art craft work. A way to further develop this study would be to shed new light on traditional crafts and local cultural resources and actively carry on the study of cultural product development to provide the foundation for developing cultural products with modern applications.