• 복식
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• 제58권8호
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• pp.63-73
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• 2008

From the ancient Korea to the late Joseon Korean fur and leather had been preferred in and out of Korea for their good quality and excellent manufacturing skill. Since Unified Silla (A.D.676${\sim}$A.D.936) Korean fur and leather were manufactured divisionally by workmen specialized in materials and products, and such manufacturing process was succeeded to Goryeo and Joseon. Manufacturing of fur and leather was consisted of as follows: hunting and butchering - peeling - beating with a paddle and removing fat - oil manufacturing - drying - tanning, then cutting and sewing, and there was a special caring method. In order to make good fur and leather, each process of manufacturing needed particular techniques and all available methods were tried to have tender fur and leather by using smoking, excrement, lime, vegetable tannin and even cerebral liquid. And also required mouth-chewing and hand-pounding with a lot of time and of labor Keeping furs resilience and flexibility, sowing several skins together, even when the after-all-process skin was converted into clothes, was much more difficult than sewing fabric. Thus, the manufacturing cost was as much expensive as skin materials, and the volume of manufacturing of fur and leather was also limited. Therefore, fur and leather must have been popular for scarcity value in the manufacturing process, and this scarcity must have caused an extreme luxury of fur.

• Journal of information and communication convergence engineering
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.61-68
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• 2020

In the era of the fourth industrial revolution, many production plants are gradually evolving into smart factories that apply information and communication technology to manufacturing, distribution, production, and quality management. The conversion from conventional factories to smart factories has resulted in the automation of production sites using the internet and the internet of things (IoT) technology. Thus, labor-intensive production can easily collect necessary information. However, implementing a smart factory required a significant amount of time, effort, and money. In particular, labor-intensive production industries are not automated, and productivity is determined by human skill. A representative industry of such industries is sewing the industry. In the sewing industry, wherein productivity is determined by the operator's skills. This study suggests that production performance, inventory management and product delivery of the sewing industries can be managed efficiently with existing production method by using smart buttons incorporating IoT functions, without using automated machinery.

• 복식
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• 제63권3호
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• pp.138-150
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to investigate research trends of subject matter in clothing construction field in clothing and textiles and to suggest the information for the future directions for fashion business and research. 2737 articles with clothing and textiles subject matter, 350 articles with clothing construction field in the Journal of Korean Society of Costume and Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles from 2001 through 2010 were analyzed. The major conclusions of the study are as follows: 1. Clothing construction field took 12.8% with 350 articles in the researches of the Journal Publications in 2000s. 2. Clothing construction field showed more proportions in the latter half of the decade. 3. Clothing construction field were classified into 5 topics : topic of basic pattern and pattern for apparel, topic of body types, topic of functionality of clothing and protective clothing, topic of size system of apparel, topic of sewing and manufacturing process. 4. In clothing construction field, topic of basic pattern and pattern for apparel took the most proportions. 5. Topic of body types, topic of functionality of clothing and protective clothing, topic of size system of apparel, topic of sewing and manufacturing process were followed.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.269-278
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• 2011

This study aims at setting up productive capacity which can be usefully utilized for work management of apparel manufacturers. So as to achieve this goal, an apparel manufacturing company which has been operated by miniline system in Seoul was selected. Standard time and man-hour were calculated to create the accurate productive capacity by observing and measuring a work flow included cutting, sewing and finishing processes. And the result is as following. The standard time for each process was presented as cutting process 47004.5s, sewing process 671050.5s and finishing process 22426.3s. And 15284.4ms was computed as total procession man-hour per day of the manufacturer which is organized of 16 people. Also, the procession man-hour for each process was revealed as cutting process 396.7ms(2.6%), sewing process 14509.3ms(94.9%) and finishing process 378.5ms(2.5%). +Surplus was found in the productivity for each process included the cutting process(outshell, lining and seam process), the sewing process(preparation and arrangement process) and the finishing process. But, additional man-hour 52436.18ms was required because the productive capacity was calculated as -surplus(-13.9%) in the sewing process(part and assembly process). Therefore, a work schedule was planned based on the previous result. However, loading can be ideal when a capacity and a load become '0'. The object company should find the way to reduce allowance(26.25%) of the sewing process through reconstruction of consciousness and improvement in functions with analyzing works of operators. Also, they need to consider an additional supplement of the personnel.

• 복식
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• 제61권6호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2011

With the trend of wearing mountaineering wear as casual apparel as well as a continuous increase of mountaineers, mountaineering wear market has rapidly grown. New techniques to improve mountaineering apparel have been developed. Construction Without Sewing(CWS) is one of them. It is a sewing technique to improve performance and functions of new functional mountaineering apparel. CWS employs a welding machine with an adhesive tape and press instead of sewing so that it makes the apparel lighter and have better wearability, durability, and windproof and waterproof function, than sewed apparel. This study focuses on the concept, nature, and applications of the mountaineering wear manufactured by CWS. It also made an analysis of manufacturing process, and proposed three designs for the mountaineering wear created by CWS. With introducing the merits of CWS, the costumers will be have better understanding of CWS and break their stereotype that functional clothing is simply expensive without considering its benefits.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.75-84
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• 2009

The following research analyzed the sewing teaching of the tailored jacket shown in fashion textbooks, which are currently used in universities and educational organizations in the fashion industry. To analyze the sewing teaching of tailored jackets, we analyzed 35 textbooks in the market. Among them we used 14 textbooks which dealt with the patter formation method of tailored jackets, and cutting and sewing methods. First, the stitching direction and the location of attachment varied. The type of sticking tape and its position also differed, emphasizing the need to make an institutionalized education material which is based on the characteristic of the fabric and its silhouette. Second, controlling the ease length of the right side sewing princess line, or information about the shoulder line and sleeve line of the notch as not specifically shown in the textbooks. Furthermore, not many textbooks showed how to pull the lower part of the texture out of sight, nor did they explain why this needed to be done. Third, the lining is usually slightly larger than the outer texture of the clothing, as the lining is usually tugged in the sewing process, and this method makes the clothes more comfortable. The method of sewing the princessline $0.2{\sim}0.3cm$ outside the outer pattern was the most recommended. The center-back side was usually 2cm in activity measurements, but it turned out that a textbook which required ease treatment on the shoulder line did not do so on the lining material. The textbooks used in this research dealt only with how to manufacture a tailored jacket without full explanation about textures which could influence the manufacturing. The production method and process differed between different textbooks, showing the need to make a institutionalized education material. In a quickly-changing era where there is rapid change in the dressmaking procedure, we need to help students understand the process more easily through a formalized education process.

• 한국전자통신학회논문지
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.53-60
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• 2018

고생산성 스마트공장을 실현하고 섬유 공정간 소량 및 대량 생산 요구에 대응할 수 있는 공장간 협업 기능성을 위해서 ICT개념이 도입되고 있다. ICT 기반의 협업 생산과 제조공정 최적화를 통해 제품 개발기간과 원가, 품질, 납기를 개선하여 고생산성 섬유제품을 생산 할 수 있는 ICT 융합형 모니터링 시스템이 필요하다. 본 논문에서는 봉제기 밑실 부분에 실제 장착 가능한 비접촉식 디지털 광 화이버 센서를 이용하여 밑실잔량을 센싱하여 IoT기반 라떼판다 보드 디스플레이에 표출하는 시스템 설계를 제안하고 구현 하였다. 이는 기존 밑실잔량 센싱 장치에 비해 소형화 되어 봉제기에 적용 우수한 성능을 확보할 수 있다.

• 적정기술학회지
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.70-81
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• 2019

의류산업은 대표적인 노동집약적인 산업 중 하나로 의류 제조의 기본 공정인 봉제 작업은 인력에 대한 의존도가 매우 높다. 의류 생산비용은 라인의 효율성에서 큰 영향을 받는데, 생산비용의 절감을 위해서는 생산 속도를 조절하여 라인의 균형 유지하는 것이 중요하다. 그러나, 현재 의류 생산라인에서 활용되고 있는 인력에 의한 생산 실적 집계 방식은 이를 위한 부수적인 인력의 소요 등으로 인한 추가 비용이 소요되어 중소기업들이 직접 적용하기 쉽지 않다. 완제품의 인력에 대한 의존도는 집계 시간의 추가 소요와 인적 오류가 크게 잠재되어 생산비용의 증가와 함께 효율성의 저하를 초래할 수 있다. 본 논문에서는 에너지 소비 데이터를 수집하고 이를 CNN (Convolutional Neural Network) 기법을 적용하여 분석함으로써 재봉 작업을 통하여 생산한 제품의 수량을 추적하고 자동으로 집계할 수 있는 봉제 작업 생산 추적 시스템을 제안한다. 개발된 시스템을 통하여 2종의 재봉 작업을 테스트 한 결과, 최대 98.6 %의 정확도를 보이며 재봉 작업을 감지할 수 있었다. 개발도상국에서 의류봉제산업은 매우 중요한 산업이나, 위에 언급한 문제들을 해결하기 위하여 고가의 첨단기술을 적용하는 등 많은 자본을 투입하는 것은 크게 제한된다. 적정 기술을 적용한 본 기술은 이러한 개발도상국의 의류산업에 큰 도움을 줄 수 있을 것으로 판단된다.

• 복식
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• 제57권3호
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• pp.136-149
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• 2007

This study researched the costume manufacture process by having the musical 'Christmas Carol' as an example and specifically presented the costume manufacture process of an actually performance work, thus it aimed to be helpful theoretically and realistically, by allowing theatrical costume manufacturers and majors in theatrical costume to be informed of the systematically practical affair process of the theatrical costume manufacture and by exhibiting the research work of costume composition aiming at reproducing a silhouette in the process such as costume composition and sewing, and the effectively manufacturing methods such as the costume composition application and the sewing method development aiming at the activity of performers. In the empirical research, it analyzed the features of characters and arranged the manufacture points while actually manufacturing the performance costume, and clarified the systematically performance costume manufacture process such as a manufacture meeting${\rightarrow}$costume list preparation$\rightarrow$work-instruction sheet preparation$\rightarrow$pattern manufacture$\rightarrow$sewing$\rightarrow$performance and inspection. Through performing the manufacture of the really performance work, it is hoped that this study contributes to the development of performance art circles, by presenting a step and a method of professionally theatrical costume to the performance manufacturers and the theatrical costume manufacturers at present when the theatrical costume is solidifying its position as a professional sphere, in the performance and an, has a meaning as the initially empirical research, which can exhibit as a guide of realistically and empirically educational contents for theatrical costume aiming to bring up professional staff for theatrical costume, and becomes help in the efficiently theatrical costume manufacture realistically.

• 복식
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• 제56권8호
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• pp.113-122
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• 2006

In this study, about forty teaching materials have been analyzed in order to examine tight skirt sewing methodtreated in basic process in a college and a fashion related educational institution. The study objects limited with a belt, back centered zipper, and back double slits on a tight skirt, and used fifteen suitable teaching materials in this study. The first study result appeared that every single teaching material suggested the different way of wick adhesion which is used in zipper slit, back slit, and belt part when the skit has been manufactured in order to do a form of clothes well. Secondly, it is the case of a back slit part used for the purpose of both functionality of action and decoration, and it is the section which varies a sewing and cutting way according to seam room width of a back middle seam. However, the majority of teaching materials appeared by being selecting the way how it had cut an inseam of the back center by the both upper part of back slit. Finally, the result showed that it mentioned mainly only both sided zipper sewing method if it seems to be easy to treat the majority in a basic process even though use of a console zipper Is general on a zipper sowing way recently for several years. Also, two forms are used in the belt manufacturing, and they are based with a waist line. However, the teaching materials that were used in this study presented only a manufacture way of the straight line on the waist belt.