• 제목/요약/키워드: robe

검색결과 142건 처리시간 0.022초

조선왕조(朝鮮王朝)의 왕비법복(王妃法服)에 관한 연구(硏究) (A STUDY OF SACREDOTAL ROBE FOR QUEEN IN CHO-SUN DYNASTY)

  • 홍나영;유희경
    • 복식
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    • 제7권
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    • pp.5-19
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    • 1983
  • Sacredotal robe(法服) means full court dress. We can't know about the shape of sacredotal robe before Dae-Han Empire(大韓帝國) since there are no remains of it. The study of sacredotal robe for queen have also been made centering around the socredotal robe granted from Ming(明) dynasty and the system of Juck-Eui(翟衣) in Dae-Han Empire. In this thesis I tried to study about the sacredotal robe for queen from King Gong-Min(恭愍王) of Koryeo(高麗) dynasty to the close the Cho-Sun(朝鮮) dynasty by investigating the Literature of Cho-sun Dynasty Chronicles(朝鮮王朝實錄), Ga Rae Do Gam Eui Gue(嘉禮都監儀軌), Sang Bang Jung Rae(尙方定例), Gook Hon Jung Rae(國婚定例), Sok-Orae Eui-Bo(續五禮儀補), and Dae Myung Whe Jeon(大明會典). The first documents on sacredotal robe for queen is regarded as that in the period of King Gong Min., which says that Chil Whee Gu Bong Gwan and Juck Eui of the 9th grade had been given from Ming dynasty. The sacredotal robe for queen in Chosun had been granted from Ming dynasty since the 3th years of King Tae-Jo(太祖) to the 3th years of King In-Jo(仁祖). They were Ju Chui Chil Juck Gwan, red Dae Sam(大衫), Bae Ja(褙子) embroidered with. pheasants on blue silk, and ivory flat baton (笏), which belonged to the court dress for the first class of court lady. When Qing(淸) dynasty succeeded to Ming dynasty, Cho-sun adopted the system of luck Eui which had it's origin in the system of Ming, denying to comply with Chung. But as a matter of fact, the system of sacredotal robe for queen actually used was one which were different from the dress system of Ming and converted into our national ways. In the latter period. of Cho-sun, the system of Bae Ja or Juck Eui were used together until the period of King Young Jo(英祖), and the system of Juck Eui which was written in Gook Hon Jung Rae was continually used from King Young Jo to the close of Cho-sun. It was composed of Juck Eui, Beol Eui(別衣), Nae Eui(內衣), Pe Sool(蔽膝), Dae Dae(大帶), HaPi, Sang(裳), Ok Dae(玉帶), Pae Ok(佩玉), Gue(圭), Mal(襪), Suk, and Myun sa(面紗), The headdress was used in our own ways, not complying with Juck Gwan(翟冠). The color of Juck Eui was red for queen, deep blue for the consort of the crown prince. The color of Juck Eui in DaHan Empire was deep blue, different from that of Juck Eui in Cho-sun. Bo(補) for queen wus embroidered with dragon with five claws and the one for the consort of crown prince with dragon with four claws. The back length of Juck Eui was longer than front about 28cm (1尺), and the front opening was straight down. 51 motifs of a brace of pheasants which were similiar to Bong(鳳) were embroidered on Juck Eui for queen. But we can't find out whether there 31 or 51 on Juck Eui for the consort of the crown prince. The system shows independant aspects, because there are Bo, Myun Sa, Sang, Ha Pi, Beol Eui, and Nae Eui which were not found in the system of Ming. As mentioned above, I have studied on the sacredotal robe for queen. But we can't guess the detail of sacredotal robe for queen, because there are no remains at all. Therefore I expect more study on this.

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한국 개창 신흥종교 의례복식에 관한 연구 (A Study on the Ceremonial Costumes in New Aboriginal Religious Groups in Korea)

  • 김현경;임상임
    • 대한가정학회지
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    • 제41권2호
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    • pp.123-139
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    • 2003
  • This study examines the characteristics of 45 sects of seven new aboriginal religious groups in Korea including Jeungsan sect, Tangun sect, Soowoon sect, Won Buddhism, Bongnam sect, Gahksedo sect, Shamanism sect through field study and various documents. The purpose of the study is to elucidate how their religious ideas are reflected in their ceremonial costumes and what characteritics and underlying meanings these costumes have, and I reached the following conclusions 1. The new religious groups in Korea modified or mixed the designs or names of existing outfits to convey their ideas or beliefs in their costumes. 2. The costumes of new religious groups turned out to have certain characteristics in common: they all reflected the times, Korean tradition, ancestor worship. 3. I looked at the symbolicity, names, and types of the outfit, and their color scheme to establish their structural characteristics, and it turned out that they an symbolized the creeds and ideas of each religion. The names of the costumes such as Way-Robe, Law-Robe, and Ceremony-Robe, for instance, had to do with Buddhism Taoism, and Confucianism. The most common type of costume consisted of traditional hanbok top, pant, robe, and some type of headpiece for men, and hanbok top and, skirt for women, and if women were to wear a robe, it usually meant the sect believed in sexual equality. There was also a tendency to simplify or minimize the dress code, which seems to indicate that the sect was trying to adapt itself to, the times. The most common type of the outer garment for men was a robe with narrow sleeves, straight lapel, and no slits, and a robe with wide sleeves, straight lapel, and slits for women. The color scheme of the costumes included blue, white, yellow, red, and black, reflecting the influence of the Yin-Yang and Five Elements idea and traditional preference for white of Koreans. 4. These religious costumes were worn at various ceremonies, ritual, and various anniversary services for the master and other dignitaries of the sect to render greater piety to those gatherings, to distinguish the sect from other religious groups, to clarify the meaning of the ceremony, and to heighten the devout feelings of the participants. Thus, the structure (the symbolicity, names, and types of the outfit, and their color scheme) and religious background of the costumes of the new aboriginal religious groups in Korea turned out to have inherited and mixed various element of traditional Korean outfit and those of existing religions to symbolize their religious ideas. Many religions in and fall, and each has its own dress codes, and I hope this study provides a framework and data for other researchers and leaders of new religious groups that will emerge in the future.

은조사 구장복의 채색안료 분석 (Analysis of Paint Pigments on King's Silk Ceremonial Robe with Nine Symbols)

  • 윤은영;강형태
    • 박물관보존과학
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    • 제15권
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    • pp.66-77
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    • 2014
  • 국립중앙박물관에 소장되어 있는 은조사 구장복은 조선 말기에 고종이 착용하였던 것으로 기록된 구장문이 그려진 대례복의 하나이다. 이 장문은 왕이 나라를 통치함에 있어 필요한 덕목을 상징적으로 표현한 것으로, 적색·황색·청색·녹색, 회색의 안료로 채색되어 있다. XRF 분석 결과, 적색 안료는 진사/주, 황색 안료는 금·황동, 청색 안료는 청색 유기안료와 연백, 녹색 안료는 구리-비소로 구성된 합성안료인 양록, 회식 안료는 은으로 판단되었다. 또한 유사한 시기에 제작된 국립중앙박물관 소장 적의본과 폐슬본의 안료 성분을 비교 검토한 결과, 차이점과 유사점을 확인할 수 있었다. 이러한 분석 결과는 19세기 말 궁중에서 사용된 안료에 대한 기초적인 자료로 활용할 수 있을 것으로 기대된다.

고려 전·중기(918~1213)의 국왕 책봉(冊封)과 관복(冠服) 사여 (Investiture of King and Bestowment of Robe and Crown in the Early to Middle of Goryeo Dynasty)

  • 이민정
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제39권1호
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    • pp.133-146
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    • 2015
  • King and Crown Prince's Gwanbok (冠服) written in "Goryeosa" Yeobokji was the bestowment of robes and crowns by the Son of Heaven who yielded hegemony over East Asia. It designated the King and Crown Prince of Goryeo as real and authentic as well as confirmed the political status of Goryeo in East Asia. In "Goryeosa" Yeobokji, the King's Gwanbok is of higher stature than the adornments of the King's ritual robes (祭服) and court robes (朝服) which held a domestic political significance. In East Asia, bestowment of voiture (車) and robe (服) usually appeared in the multistate system. In the $10^{th}$ century, the Later Jin (後晋) spread the idea of investiture and bestowment to Khitan (契丹). The Liao (遼) or Khitan and the Jin (金), the Conquest Dynasties, endeavored to establish the legitimacy of the Son of Heaven by imitating Sinocentrism by means of investiture and bestowment. In the reign of XingZong (興宗) and DaoZong (道宗) of Liao, the ritual of investiture and bestowment for Goryeo was in the making, adding titles and bestowments in the occasion of the elevation of Emperor Liao's honorific title. King Munjong (文宗) of Goryeo reached 9-bestowment which symbolized the first of the feudal lords in East Asia. This exceptional respect for Goryeo went on to Jin's investiture and bestowment. From then, 9-bestowment was defined as an international decorum (禮) toward Goryeo. This historical study of Gwanbok (冠服) of "Goryeosa", indicates: First, the King's Ceremonial Robe with Nine-symbol Design were designated from the early to middle of the Goryeo Dynasty by investiture and bestowment from the Conquest Dynasties. Second, the bestowed King's Robe and Crown had simultaneous functions for domestic order and international order. Goryeo did not follow ideological Sinocentrism but followed practical interest by accepting Confucian Li (禮) philosophy passed on through the Conquest Dynasties.

한국 전통 이미지의 호텔용가운 디자인 개발에 관한 연구 (A Study on Design Development of the Hotel Robe Based on Korean Images)

  • 문광희;문명옥
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제28권1호
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    • pp.45-53
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    • 2004
  • This study was conducted to redesign hotel robes based on Korean images. Hotel robes are furnished at many Korean hotels to increase the level of their guests' satisfaction toward their hotel services. The current hotel robe has several flaws in utility and design. Also, the robes register a low level on guests' satisfaction while generating high cleaning cost. Consequently, improvements in the hotel robes' material, motifs, style, and color were needed. The current one-piece, cotton towel weave robes used in hotels are white and pale. Half of the hotel guests never wear the hotel robes during their stay, because they are unattractive and most Korean hotels provide a robe similar in design. Furthermore, these robes are undistinguishable from those found at other countries. Nevertheless, Korean hotel managers feel that the hotel robe is an important tool to express its hotel image and to increase guests' satisfaction of their services. Most hotel managers and consumers agreed that it is necessary to design hotel robes based on Korean images. They believe that redesigning the hotel robes based on Korean images would induce hotel guests to wear them and at the same time feel part of the Korean traditional culture. The Korean traditional motifs of Taegug, Un (cloud), JuJag (phoenix), and Kumkwan (gold crown) were used in the new design of the hotel robes. The style of new hotel robes is the Korean traditional Pho of the Three Kingdoms. The colors of new hotel robes are white and pink. Forty-three examiners evaluated the newly designed robes for their aesthetic, symbolic and distinctional values. They concurred that the new robes were much better than the current ones.

A Study on Fashion Leader - with a Focus on Marie Antoinette and Her Influence on the 18th Century Fashion -

  • Chung, Hyun-Sook
    • The International Journal of Costume Culture
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    • 제6권1호
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    • pp.1-10
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    • 2003
  • This study aims to analyze the influence which Marie Antoinette, an unfortunate queen and fashion pioneer, had upon leading the creation of fashion in the eighteenth-century. In addition, this study attempts to expect some insights of fashion on the basis of analysis. Marie Antoinette created a new trend of fashion all the time through her hatred of restricting freedom, discontentment and caprice. She created the robes a l'anglaise, a la polonaise, a la levite, chemise a la reine, and so on. Also, Marie Antoinette created a giant hair style by hiring a hairdresser named Leonard. It can be believed that even though Marie Antoinette is open to censure owing to her frivolity, vanity and extravagance, she is recognized a creator of womanish, beautiful, delicate and graceful dress and ornaments.

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4-로브 헬리컬형 로터를 가진 용적형수차의 성능예측법 (Performance Prediction Method of n Positive Displacement Turbine with 4-Lobe Helical Type Rotor)

  • 최영도
    • Journal of Advanced Marine Engineering and Technology
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    • 제31권5호
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    • pp.522-530
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    • 2007
  • In order to extract small hydropower in the very low specific speed range of $n_s<10$, a Positive Displacement Turbine (PDT) has been proposed and steady performances have been determined experimentally. However, the suppression of large pressure fluctuation is inevitable for practical application of PDT. Therefore, present study adopted 4-lobe helical type robe to reduce the pressure fluctuation. The results show that 4-lobe helical type robe can be adopted to suppress the pressure fluctuation drastically. Moreover, efficiency and unit power of the turbine with newly proposed 4-lobe helical type lobe are higher than those of the turbine with 3-lobe straight type robe.

조사도 복식에 관한 연구-전라도지역 사찰 소장 조사도를 중심으로-

  • 안명숙
    • 복식
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    • 제25권
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    • pp.63-69
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    • 1995
  • The purpose of this study was to investigate to the costumes in a portrait of the Buddhist Monk of JUN-NAM's local Temple. The Kasa was used to base of the rule be-cause this was not our's own costumes. There-fore size, form, wearing-assistance ornament of Kasa were to similiar to the rule's Kasa. But in case of color were used to pink, yellow, chest-nut except the red color. A Buddhist monk's robe were putted on adapt to climate in our nation. Without special condition, a Buddhist monk's robe were used to varied color, that is grey, green, pink, blue,(light, navy) blue, chestnut etc.

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뉴욕 지역 한인 퍼레이드에 나타난 한복의 유형과 특징 (Types and features of Hanbok worn in the Korean parade in New York)

  • 이은진;한재휘
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제28권4호
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    • pp.463-479
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    • 2020
  • The purpose of this study identify the types and characteristics of Hanbok worn in lunar new year parade and Korean parade in New York over the past three years. As for the research method, I first collected domestic news articles, overseas Korean news articles, and literature reviews about the history of the Korean parade in New York and the events of each year. Second, I conducted a case study on Hanbok worn in the six parades from 2017 to 2019 using photo data collected through direct surveys, 'YouTube' video footage and news article photos. Third, I interviewed people related to the New York parade about the route of buying and renting the Hanbok in the New York area. The types of Hanbok shown in the Korean parade in New York can be largely classified as ceremonial, performance, and daily costume. There were 65 ceremonial costumes in all, with men wearing Dallyeong (official's robe) and Gorlyongpo (dragon robe) and women wearing Dangui (woman's semi-formal jacket), Wonsam (woman's ceremonial robe), and Hwarot (princess's ceremonial robe). A number of performance costumes were also worn by the Chwitasu bands, Nongak ensembles and fan dancers. Finally, of the 210 daily Hanbok, most men wore Baji (pants) and Jeogori (jacket), and women wore Chima (skirts) and Jeogori. The parade attempts to showcase the beauty of Hanbok, but the costumes repeat year after year, which can feel monotonous to onlookers. This research can be used as a reference to effectively utilize Hanbok in future Korean cultural events.

법복의 조형성에 대한 연구 (A study on the Judge's Robe)

  • 금기숙;조효숙
    • 복식
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    • 제38권
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    • pp.261-277
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    • 1998
  • This study is focused on two things, on the matter of judge's robe(JR) which is worn in the court. First, Korean JR were examined from late 19th century through today(1997)to reveal the entity of the JR : characteristics of each JR has been changed according to the political or international influences. Second, JR from 92 countries were collected and analyzed to figure out the plastic characteristics of the JR among international society. The results are as follows : First, Korean JR were have changed many times according to the social, political influences. The Korean modern judicial system were proclaim in 1895 and JR were adapted in 1906. In 1920, Japanese style JR were worn until 1945 when Korean government have had her Independence. Korean Government have changed JR through which Korean identities were expressed through patterns such as national flower Mukungwha(Hibiscus) and Yang & Yin. In 1966 Korean JR were changed again and adopted western style JR until today (1997) which have many things in common with academic robe of university or clerical robe. Second, the analysis of the 92 international JR were summarized as follows : (1) The JR were consisted of three styles such as Gown style, Cape style and Jacket style. And Gown style has been found as the most popular style(86%) for JR among them. (2) As the main color of JR, black is used among 60% of countries and red is used in 33% of countries. Gold were matched for black JR and gray for red JR as their sub-color. (3) The most popular material were wool and satin were favored as its sub-materials. (4) Natural and Geometric Patterns were used to express the symbol of the country and the court. (5) Decorative items and details such as hat, gloves, shoes, wig, necklace, neck-tie, stole, tassels, rope, ruffles were used to express wearers dignity and symbolism. These results are expected to be adapted for the future design for new JR which has its identity and characteristics.

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