• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.26-33
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• 2009

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of concealing, revealing, and deforming the body. Using �body�t o analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the absence of physicality in fashion focusing on the deformation of the body parts. The absence of physicality denotes the break away from the idealized and standardized body for mass productions. It tends to experiment with extreme exaggeration in form refusing to subscribe to the traditional values that build on the balance and symmetry of the body, which opposes the sartorial convention and symbolism that results in the discord between signifiant and signifi? f clothing.

• 한국응급구조학회지
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.83-97
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• 2018

Purpose: The purpose of this study was to provide basic data for the development of personal protective equipment (PPE) for emergency medical technicians (EMTs) during chemical, biological, radiological, nuclear, and explosive situations. Methods: Body measurements were obtained for adults aged from 20 to 59 years from the data in the 6 th Size Korea national sizing survey. These data were compared to the sizes of protective clothing currently available in the market. In-depth interviews with active paramedics with experiences of wearing PPE were conducted. Results: Most of the imported protective clothing turned out to be unfit for Korean adults. This showed the urgent need for developing appropriately sized protective clothing for Korean emergency technicians. In total, 55.0% of the respondents indicated that the current protective clothing is unsafe, and 71.0% requested the clothing to have level C protective performance. Regarding the design, many people wanted hooded all-in-one type of clothing. Conclusion: Considering these requirements, most of the wearers wanted their protective clothing to be fundamentally protective of their body, be available in various sizes with adjustable parts, and easy to wear and take off. They also wanted the clothing to be secure in clear sight, while not revealing any parts of their body and not interfringe with their ability to communicate with others.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권7호
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• pp.907-921
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• 2013

This study shows the importance of human factors in relationship marketing by revealing the influence of Hanbok salesperson's attributes on relationship quality and long-term relationship orientation at the time when a culture is newly understood. A questionnaire surveyed 376 women living around the Seoul and Daejeon Metropolitan areas from February to March 2013. SPSS WIN 20.0 and AMOS 20.0 programs analyzed the gathered data. We review the influence of Hanbok salesperson's attributes (expertise, ethics, communication skill, customer orientation, similarity, and likeability) on relationship quality and behavioral intention. The research indicates that only customer orientation and Hanbok salesperson's expertise attributes influence relationship quality. All the attributes had a positive influence; in addition, the relationship quality had a significant influence on customer loyalty. However, communication skill, similarity, and likeability did not influence relationship quality. Customer orientation, which provides a customized service based on the recognition of individual customer trends and expertise in developing a relationship with customers, are important factors to form relationship quality and loyalty.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권9_10호
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• pp.1112-1123
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• 2003

This study is designed for improving wearing styles for middle-aged women who are in unsatisfactory body types and also providing the basic information about the suitable clothing designs for them. This study focuses on what kinds of body types they perceive, what the differences are between the perception of their body types and the real ones, and how the actual clothing styles can be affected by those perceived body types. This study is based on the survey of the perception of body types, the clothing styles, and the satisfaction level of body cathexis, while measuring body size of each person responded. The data were analyzed by Mean, ANOVA, Duncan-test of SPSS Win. (ver 10.1)program. The results are as follows: 1. The perception of their body types can be categorized into three clusters, the obesity, the arm & leg obesity, the slender. 2. By and large, Middle-aged women perceive their body types exactly what they we. However, they show a relatively subjective view on the upper arm girth, ankle girth, and arm length 3. The abdomen is at the lowest satisfactory part in body cathexis for the entire groups responded, and there are some differences among the perception of their body types in whole body silhouette and trunk. 4. Middle-aged women who perceive themselves as a bit slender show a tendency of having tight and revealing clothing styles, while the obese who perceived themselves wouldn't take them as appropriate dresses.

• 복식
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• 제63권6호
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• pp.97-112
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• 2013

In this study, physical, social and psychological repression embodied by the body and clothing are referred to instinctual, power and creative desires, respectively, from the point of biological, social and aesthetic views. Desire refers to a behavior to overcome men's imperfections with individual security, sense of belonging and the pursuit of an ideal, which are obtained by living as a social creature. Repression through the body is sub-categorized depending on whether it is temporary or permanent. Repression expressed through clothing is seen through revealing/concealing, contraction/expansion, and deconstruction/ reconstruction. What enables human beings to embrace changes in fashion without fierce resistance or backlash is the changes of formativeness demonstrated by repression through the body and clothing. The aesthetic values drawn from the exhibition of repression and on the body and clothing are categorized into narcissism, fetishism and aestheticism. While narcissism is an instinctive desire grounded on the originality and confidence of the self that results in refusing repression, fetishism is a desire for power that expedites repression in the pursuit of materialistic value or sexual fantasy. Aestheticism is a desire for creativity that symbolizes the body-and-clothing repression in the pursuit of aesthetic idealism. Repression evokes desire, and the pursuit of desire leads to another repression. The aesthetic values of desire for instinct, power and creativity can be substituted with each other for interpretation according to the attitudes of an initiator, a user and a spectator.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제25권1호
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• pp.150-164
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• 2021

This study analyzed the punk style shown in the movie Sid and Nancy (1986), based on a true story. The purpose of this study was to prove that the styles of the main characters had some discriminatory mode as an anti-fashion with not only the value system of the subculture but also the diverse cultural codes applied, revealing their identity. The scope of this study covered the 1970s when Sid died while a member of the Sex Pistols, but was limited to the analysis of Sid and Nancy's costumes. As theoretical background, this study reviewed the preceding studies, specialty books, movie-related sites and their postings, and on-line news reports. To analyze the movie costumes, relevant scenes on the DVD were captured, and thereby, the scenes were categorized per character and style but a performance scene was categorized Sid and Nancy as same punky wedding style because of intention spirituality to marriage by director, and thereupon, 17-cut images were used for the analysis of main characters' styles. Sid's style consisted primarily of black leather jackets, symbolic T-shirts, and jeans, whereas Nancy's style implied a punk style with added fetish styles. Even in the same punk style, their identities were symbolized through bricolage. Through this, subculture styles, were able to confirm that in addition to the value system of subculture, discriminatory modes as anti-fashion with various cultural codes played a role in revealing their identity.

• Human Ecology Research
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• 제60권2호
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• pp.273-287
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• 2022

(K)Hanbok, which is Korea's traditional clothing, differs from the Chinese Hanfu or Japanese Kimono. This study aims to understand the fundamental differences between (K)Hanbok and Hanfu. The Goryeo Dynasty (K)Hanbok, which was particularly popular in China, was established because the Ming Dynasty Hanfu and Chinese fashion were considerably influenced by the 'Koryo Yang'. Firstly, while (K)Hanbok is bulky, Hanfu of the Han Dynasty is characterized by forming a slim silhouette. Due to the climate of the Northern Hemisphere, (K)Hanbok shows a rich silhouette comprising multiple layers of inner pants and a pleated skirt over a voluminous underskirt. On the other hand, the Han's Hanfu creates a straight silhouette in the form of a wrap, revealing the contours of the body. The pleated skirt of the (K)Hanbok can use six to twelve width fabrics, depending on the social position; however, the Hanfu of the Han is a skirt without any pleats. Secondly, the clothing patterns, which have various shapes, are totally different in how they are made and sewn. The Korean (K)Hanbok is a two-piece separate, whereas the Chinese Hanfu style is a one-piece with a skirt. The short length of the (K)Hanbok jacket has a Sup which is cut and pasted allowing the front closure to overlap. Nevertheless, the Hanfu of the Han does not have this Sup because it is of a wrap-around, one-piece style and has an exceptionally large front, and wraps around at the waist which extends to the sides. Thirdly, the (K)Hanbok jacket has separate string Gorums for fastening, and an additional belt around the waist; however, in the case of Gorum, it is unnecessary for a wrapping style of Hanfu. Fourthly, Koreans as an agricultural horse-riding people, basically wore the trousers attached a comfortable gusset, while the Chinese Hanfu had no pants, but the Chinese wore Gaedanggo pants which exposed the hips, inevitably during the Warring States period.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권6호
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• pp.907-917
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• 2000

Although interest in the potential and actual usage of the Internet as a transaction medium is increasing, the market for fashion merchandise on the Internet in Korea has yet to take off. As the Internet environment is expected to bring about a transformation of conventional consumer buying behavior, the purpose of this exploratory research is to investigate the buying behavior of fashion products on the Internet to identify relevant concepts and generate hypotheses for further empirical research. The research methods selected for the study were observation and in-depth interview. Twelve subjects who had purchased fashion products on the Internet were selected and interviewed. Those who could not participate in face-to-face in-depth interviews because of the geographic locations were interviewed on-line. The results are as follows: First, subjects went through the stages of shopping motivation stage, site choice behavior stage, in-site behavior stage, and postpurchase behavior stage. Second, a model was extracted for each shopping stage, and a final model was completed based on comparisons with the participants processes. The information content of each phase was discussed. Finally, each participant was classified using their purchasing process, revealing six possible mixed usage patterns of the Internet marketing system and the traditional marketing system.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권4호
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• pp.597-605
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• 2010

This study is about the expression types and characteristics of Trompe l'oeil in modern fashion. The study defines the concept of Trompe l'oeil, examines the Trompe l'oeil in the surrealist works from which the Trompe l'oeil derives from, and analyzes the works that have emerged since 2000. The study used a collection of magazines such as Vogue, Gap, Fashion News, and the Internet. According to the findings, the expression types of Trompe l'oeil in modern fashion were seen in the human body, the wearing style, the details, and accessory effects of clothes. The modern fashion design using the Trompe l'oeil based on such external expressions was characterized by the following: first, the fashion design destroyed the concept of common sense and expressed the purity of the human spirit by revealing the human body hidden in clothes from the combination of clothes and the human body with surrealism. Second, the details or accessories of clothes were printed or painted as if they existed. Pleasure was expressed by applying Trompe l'oeil to the wearing methods and forms of clothes through the optical illusion of materials or colors. Third, the effects of an optical illusion were displayed by transforming and distorting the wearing style and reversing the front, back, exterior and interior of clothes; this optical illusion characterized the deconstruction expressed through the transformation of ideas.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제41권1호
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• pp.98-115
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• 2017

This study categorizes the formative aspects of dress and their implications according to the extent of revealing or concealing corporeality based on body perceptions. By considering the notion of dress as bodily practice to be a theoretical and methodological framework, this study combines a literature survey and case analysis to analyze and classify the forms of women's dress since the 1920s when contemporary fashion took hold. As examined in this study, the typology of dress was categorized as body-consciousness, deformation, transformation, and formlessness. Body-consciousness that is achieved through tailoring, bias cutting, and stretchy fabric displays corporeality focusing on the structure and function of the body as an internalized corset. Deformations in dress are categorized into two different subcategories. One is the expansion or reduction of bodily features based on the vertical or horizontal grids of the body, which visualizes the anachronistic restraint of the body through an innerwear as outerwear strategy. The other is exaggerations of the bodily features irrelevant to the grid, which break from the limitations and constraints of the body as well as traditional notions of the body. Transformations of the body refer to as follows. First, the deconstruction and restructuring of the body that deconstruct the stereotypes in garment construction. Second, the abstraction of the body that emphasizes the geometrical and architectural shapes. Third, transformable designs which pursue the expansion and multiplicity of function. Formlessness in dress denies the perception of three-dimensionality of the body through the planarization of the body.