• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.12-22
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• 2010

As an influential political leader, Queen Elizabeth II holds the link between past queens and today's women political leaders and her dress represents so much in accordance to her role. It is important to analyze the dress and role enactment of Queen Elizabeth II in order to provide a guide to the future women political leaders all over the world. The Queen's dress helps her show tradition which has developed over one thousand years of history. She represents Britain to the world focusing on national identity and unity. The Queen always distinct herself from the rest of the world to show the pride of British Monarch, but when she is visiting other counties for diplomatic relationships she would surely show a friendly gesture on her dress to assimilate herself with that country. Also, same as all other women, the Queen seeks practicality in her dress. Therefore, I was able to classify the Queen's dress into jive groups as a way of role enactment. They are tradition, representation, distinction, assimilation, and practicality.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.29-40
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• 2002

Honor guards‘ dress represented by royal carriage parade. This thesis studies the ceremonial dress worn by the ceremonial troops during the Hwa-sung Hang-hang Ban-cha drawing (華城幸行班次圖) in the Chosun dynasty of King Jung-jo. The purpose of this study is to understand the national level ceremony by closely looking into the traditional ceremonial dress and the various signs that were used at these events thereby enhancing the cultural status of the Jung-jo King period. The Hwa-sung Hang-hang Ban-cha drawing(華城幸行班次圖) has its characteristics and also has commonality between the garments worn at these ceremonies. These garments are a traditional heritage brought down from many ages before and is a reflection of the changes that have occurred within our everyday life. Among these many records the Bancha-do(班次圖) is a representation of records that show what was worn by both nobles down to the ceremonial troops. The uniforms of the ceremonial troops were not only huge in size but also very diverse according to rank and grade. They used strong true colors with colorful flags, ceremonial items and musical instruments. These all added to the grandeur of the ceremony. The ceremonial flag was itself a symbol and was the core of the whole ceremony and parade. These ceremonial flags represented the heaven, sun, moon, hill and animals as well as supernatural gods. All these showed change in shape, color and content by age and time. Also the Yongmun Gichi(Dragon flag: 龍紋旗幟) is a supernatural being representing the power and wish of the ruler. The Chunsang-mun represents the indivisible relationship between man and heaven and also a metaphor for absolute power. A close look at ceremonial instruments show a direct representation towards power such as an axe, spear and sword and integrated with other large ceremonial items not only provided a shade but was also a representation of worship. These all were a more or less representation of authority. The musical instruments expressed the absolute authority of the ruler and maintained the marching order and also added grandeur to the parade. A summary of the ceremonial troops in the As seen above, these national ceremonies were a representation of the present power of authority and the will to rule. These ideas and the philosophy of “ruled by heaven” is represented here in the uniforms and the ceremony itself. The Bicentennial anniversary of the Nung - hang of February 1795 will be an excellent opportunity to show and inherit the tradition and recreation of our heritage. In this view we must look at the color and shape of traditional dress to be able to inherit and learn from our ancestors.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.40-57
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• 2013

In examining the relationship between fashion and art which are intimately interrelated, the body is a suitable subject in that it is the common object of representation. This study investigates and compares the images of the body in Francis Bacon's paintings from 1940s to 1970s and the formative aspect and aesthetic value of the abstract body images in Rei Kawakubo's designs since 1980s. The figures in Bacon's paintings are confusingly and atypically deformed as well as distorted, which are the combinations of the anatomies without references, not so much represented objects as experienced sense. Kawakubo's designs attempt to deform the body, moreover, she transforms the body; represent abstract forms without association with any other figures that exist, emphasizing sculptural or architectural shapes of garment. She suggests extensive visual language of dress by challenging the norms of beauty. The body in Bacon and Kawakubo's works is dispersive as well as complex in that the body images are deconstructed, fragmented, and exaggerated. Respectively, they articulate the perception of the body in postmodernism era by destroying the myth of subject; furthermore establish the aesthetics that transcend conventional ideals by reevaluating as well as refusing the standards of beauty.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.604-619
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• 2007

Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the representation and non-representation of the body in fashion. Theoretically, this study draws from Jean Baudrillard's Simulation theory which maintains that simulation develops the whole edifice of representation. My study substitutes the successive phases of the image to that of (non) representing body in fashion. The correspondences between them are; first, 'image is the reflection of a basic reality' for the representation of physicality, second, 'image masks and perverts a basic reality' for the manipulation of physicality, third, 'image masks the absence of a basic reality' for the absence of physicality, and fourth, 'image bears no relation to any reality whatever' for the absence of body in fashion. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.706-718
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• 2014

Ideology which symbolizes the belief system about the order of human society represents itself in a concrete form through dress which reflects material and conceptual world. In the early 1960s Korea, where a civil revolution and a military coup took place, good examples of dress representing ideology could be found. This study investigates the dress representing ideology of the period, and examines its manifestation and aspect of transition. Literature survey and case study were conducted. The following results were obtained: First, dress representing ideology was symbolically verifying its differences and was changing with the course of time. There were the flow going down from the government, and the flow going up from the movement of the civilian. Through this process, design elements of ideological dress were combined in a dialectic way to form a new representational dress such as Jaegunbok. Second, costly and luxurious clothes meant a tool to rule over people, and the opposition was uniform meaning equality. In 1960 Korea, black waves of school uniforms appeared to lead the social change. A year later, the military government seized power in a 5.16 coup and it enforced uniform upon every people to achieve equal austerity and modernized spirit. Lastly, cotton, which was originated from Gandhi's movement in India, was symbolizing nationalism till the early 1960s in Korea meaning the funding own development with own resources.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.9
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• pp.84-96
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• 2011

This paper investigates the formative features and the historical meaning of the Korean dress collection held in the Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology in Cambridge. The Museum holds a total of eleven items of koran dresses that were donated by two anthropologists in the first half of the twentieth century. Male dresses consist of a white cotton jacket (Jeogori), a under-vest (Deungbaeja) made of light wisteria rings, a headband (Manggeon) made of horsehair, a broad brimmed top hat (Gat) made of black horsehair gauze, an oilskin cover (Galmo) drawn over the hat in wet weather, and a hemispherical hat box (Gatjib). Female dresses comprise a pink silk jacket (Jeogori), a blue silk skirt (Chima) with pleats, a pair of woman's white cotton trousers (Sokgot), a black silk cap (Jobawi) decorated with pink tassels and imitation pearls, and a pair of green and magenta silk shoes (Danghye) with leather soles and metal rivets. Theses Korean dresses show what the western anthropologists had interests in. When collectors collect the folk objects, they thought much of the specificity of shape and material, the esthetic appreciation, and the representation of daily life. In terms of the value as the historical materials in the history of Korean dress, the under-vest of wisteria, the hat box, and the female dresses are worth paying attention to. The under-vest is one that was produced in earlier time among the remaining under-vests. The hat box represents that the hat belonged to the merchant classes. The female dress items show daily dresses worn by women of higher classes of the society in the 1920s.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.107
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• pp.126-141
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• 2006

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing farm, my study develops a framework by which to classify the representation of the body in fashion focusing on the representation of physicality. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in representing body in fashion, my study examines subjects from the 14th century European costumes to fashion collections of the 20th century. In fashion, representation of the body is visually analogous to the ideal body shape and structure, including a realistic presentation of the body as well as reflection of aesthetic ideals. Representation of physicality refers to structural designs and elastic fabrication. Structural designs appeared in tailoring and bias-cut draping, as well as in stretchy clothes such as Lycra body suit and knit garments that highlights the body structure and movements of the body joints. In representing physicality in fashion, clothing forms reflect body silhouette and each body parts. Therefore, the shape of clothes (signifiant) corresponds to the anatomy and movement of the body ($signifi\'{e}$) in pursuit of aptness. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.9 s.109
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• pp.66-82
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• 2006

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the representation of the body in fashion focusing on the representation of physicality. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in representing body in fashion, my study examines subjects from the 14th century European costumes to fashion collections of the 20th century. In fashion, representation of the body is visually analogous to the ideal boily shape and structure, including a realistic presentation of the body as well as reflection of aesthetic ideals. Manipulation of physicality entails the reconstruction of the ideal body image through the clothes that modify physicality into unnatural body. Ruff collar, gigot sleeve, crinoline, bustle, stomacher, and corset were all used to materialize the fictitious curves symbolizing femininity, authority, healthiness, maternity, virginity, socioeconomic status, and fertility. Accentuating specific clothing parts represents emphasizing the symbolism of the correspondent body parts. Consequently, in this phase signifiant is $signifi\'{e}$. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the firm of a dress. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.3
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• pp.1-11
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• 2003

This study aims to recognize the value of traditional culture and to create 'Korean style rest costume' i.e. in-door clothes for comfort's purpose designed for hotel or other tourist accommodations with its own image. In so doing, national pride and identity will be exalted for Koreans, while an opportunity of cultural expose will be provided for foreigners through the symbols of Korea, which will contribute to the international introduction and representation of Korea. First, this study investigates the external characteristics in forms and structures of Korean style rest costume. Second, questionnaires regarding consciousness of Korean style rest costume and preference in design are distributed to the hotel guest and staff-both domestic and international- to be fir out. Lastly, designed rest costume representing Korean image, based on the results of the survey. Upon investigation, users and employers both preferred two piece style which is separated to upper garment and lower garment. While employers preferred short sleeve, users preferred long sleeves. In colors, employers preferred blue while users preferred white. In garments, both of. the employers and users preferred cotton, towel and cotton flannel. In addition, when introducing rest costume, it will be efficient to distinct the strategy between natives and foreigners, and also distinguish where the rest costume will be used.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.511-522
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• 2001

Various art trends of the 20th century that contributed to the creation and development of abstract art had showed the transition from the convention of mere representation of the object to the formative sensitivity emphasizing self-expression. Noticing that such trends had influenced the fashion industry to move toward a free and individualized style, this study attempts to express the formative way from the existing art to wear, especially, based on early 20th century paintings, 5 casual wears were made which applied korean materials and silhouettes that are functional, sample and show traditional korea beauty. The purpose of this study is to search for a solution to expand the world market by producing dresses utilizing our own tradition that can be distinguished in the global market and that derive inspiration from the formative of the sensitivity of the paintings during the first half of the 20th century. It also aims to let national economy as a high-added industry. The result of this study are as follows: First, the expression method and element of various styles of art such as Fauvism, Expressionism and Cubism, during the period of transition to abstract art, clearly presented the direction toward the artistic liberation and made possible a new formative artistic expression of dress in the early years of the 20th century. Their ideas inspired the dress designers of the time with a reformative and creative sense of fashion and have greatly contributed to the development of a new era of uniqueness and individuality. Second, the color and the simplicity of form of the early 20th century paintings are suitable fro utilizing a motive of functional dresses and express unique and concise modern beauty. Third, it was confirmed that utilizing our tradition in contemporary dress can be a significant method of creation in which the uniqueness and creativity of Korean dress can be expressed, distinguishing it on the global scene, as well as inspire the originality and pride of our culture. Fourth, a possibility has been discovered. It is the functionality and uniqueness of aesthetic expression technique of the contemporary arts that can contribute to the fashion of tomorrow, by searching a modern fashion which was affected by the past and also by taking a look at the trend of modern fashion as the same field as casula wear.