Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.23
no.2
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pp.155-163
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2021
This design proposal research is meaningful as Jogakbo can retain the traditional value of the it's design as it becomes a contemporary design proposal. As a specific method of research, history was been investigated to find meaning and formative characteristics defined through prior research under the theme of Jogakbo. Ideas, such as silhouettes, details for design, and the making domestic and foreign designer examples were obtained. The fabric used for the works were recycled from past leather works. All materials are sheep skin. There were various processed surfaces used to avoid monotony. Jogakbo's cotton composition focused on free and radial patterns. The pattern was manufactured using a flat and 3D combination, and the selection of items was mainly made with a simple and light silhouette, so that Jogakbo's details, such as dresses, slip dress, and vests could stand out. Color is an important factor in Jogakbo. However, traditions which are relics of the times, do not need to be preserved in their original form. If changes are inherited with reasonable grounds and directions in line with the changing times, the significance and values are retained are sufficient. It is hoped that these design development studies will continue in the future so that our precious cultural heritage can continue to change and develop positively.
This study is based on 'Sangkwan' in 'Jeokcheonsucheonmi' among Myeongri classical theory as a guideline, and is a consideration research on past 'Sangkwan' in the rest of Myeongri classical theory. The first words about 'Sangkwan' in the original text is that the interpretation is very difficult when Sangkwan looks at 'Jeongkwan'. When we say 'Jeongkwan', it contains the interpretation on the person who should take on the heavy responsibility of the state in the monarchy, and there is a concern about how it can be easily interpreted by neglecting it because 'Sangkwan' have a bad effect on 'Jeongkwan'. Unlike modern times, in the past, there was no other way but to become government officials to be successful socially and accumulate wealth. There should be big difference in standard of fortune and success in an era where success conditions and opportunities were difficult to be given. That is, it was though in the past that 'Sangkwan' which has a bad influence on 'Jeongkwan' have a detrimental effect awfully. However, in today's scientific society, the use of 'Sangkwan' which has a bad influence on 'Jeongkwan' has come to light in a wide variety of places. Therefore, this study is to lay a foundation for the expansion of reinterpretation and utilization methods suitable for the times through the consideration of classical 'Sangkwan'.
Modernism is an internationally accepted design style. In addition, traditional Korean costume is not the clothing of the past, but its form is also used in modern fashion. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to examine the social and cultural contents of the morphological structure of traditional Korean costume, in order to derive the design characteristics of modernism and examine the global applicability of traditional Korean costume structure. For this study, photographic materials from museums, schematic drawings of relics, and Hanbok production books published by government agencies were analyzed. Further, this study examined traditional Korean costume, especially the modernism characteristics derived from Paul Greenhalgh and previous studies. The results are as follows. First, The traditional Korean costume is a cut based on basic shapes, along with a silhouette appears according to the background of the times. Second, the characteristics of modernism can be divided into universality, functionality, and simplicity. Third, as a result of analyzing the form structure of traditional Korean costume based on the characteristics of modernism, universality is expressed as standardized form, functionality as practical aesthetics, and simplicity as sustainable diversity. Furthermore, Korean costume has a difference in that was greatly influenced by various Eastern ideas and aesthetics of the late Joseon Dynasty. These findings provide a perspective of modern reinterpretation of the uniqueness and universality of traditional Korean costume in line with globalization by utilizing the design characteristics of modernism, an international style.
A luxury brand bag is a medium to symbolize brand identity and plays a role in enhancing brand value. A typical example is a designer signature bag such as Hermes Kelly Bag, Birkin Bag, and Lady Dior Bag. The purpose of this study is to analyze the design changes and acceptance of identity of luxury brand bags and examine the design characteristics that succeed to the value of a luxury brand bag. The subjects of the study focused on Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and Chanel bags. Photos were collected from www.vogue.co. uk. based on the fashion collections from S/S 2007 to S/S 2016. The study methodology was to analyze the kinds, shapes, colors, materials, and the ornament of subject bags based on previous studies. The results of the study were summarized as follows. For the identity and design changes of each brand, Chanel has tried to combine functionality pursued in the past with constantly changing femininity by making bags in fantastic moods using various materials and free shapes. Gucci has constantly used Ornament elements holding the brand identity of classic bags and trend colors to keep tradition. Louis Vuitton holds fast to its functional shape to protect brand identity through design philosophy that started with a travel luggage and attempts to express modern emotion through Ornament changes. This study confirmed that luxury brands have accepted their unique design characteristics holding brand identity to improve their brand value and attempted to change constructive elements in many different ways for modern reinterpretation.
Bosnia has a unique political and social structure of 'One State-Two Systems' according to the 'Dayton Peace Agreement'. It is true that since the end of the 1995 civil war, the problem of nation and peace in Bosnia has been attracted by the broad concept of Europe as a whole, beyond the local dimension of the Balkans. Bosnia is a typical 'Mosaic of Religion and Culture' region in Europe. And Sarajevo, the capital of Bosnia, where various religious and cultural features of Europe are gathered, is called 'Jerusalem in Europe'. For this reason Bosnia has repeated a history of cultural and religious conflict since the Middle Ages. However, before the civil war in the late 20th century, the nations in Bosnia also had experience of 'harmony among various nations, religions and cultures of East and West'. The international community, including the EU, has paid attention to this point as it promotes Bosnia's reconstruction and peace settlement. And these are working to restore the history of harmony among nations in Bosnia today. In the past, research on Bosnia has focused primarily on national conflicts between religions and cultures. However, in this study, I will try to analyze the practical cases of peace settlement and harmony among nations in Bosnia as follows: First, 'Bosnia's accession to the EU' which means active intervention and continued interest of the international community. Second, 'the resolution of war crimes and liquidation of past history' through the end of ICTY mission in December 2017. And third, 'reflection of international society and historical reconciliation of Serbia' through the reinterpretation of the Srebrenica massacre.
This Study is about the color images oi clothes in the early 20th century in the Eastern and Western culture and the recreation of this color images through modern costume design in film. The aim of this study is to show how early 20th century color has born reinterpreted through present film costumes and how different cultural perspectives can influence color images. For the purposes of this study, 30 pictures of clothing, representative of the early 20th century, as well as films which have been internationally recognized for their costume design and strong cultural identity('Farewell M) 'Concubine', 'Raise the Red Lantern', 'Chicago' and 'The English Patient') were chosen and analyzed. The color image of these photographs and scenes from the movies were divided by Pantone Solid Chips and categorized by color groups such as red, orange, yellow, green, blue, violet, neutral and metallic. The analysis results of the color images in the early 20th century showed that the red group was used a lot in both cultures and the orange group was more often used in the West. In regards to the yellow group, goldish yellow were commonly used in the West but pale yellow was preferred in the East. The green group more used In the West but the blue group appears more in the East. Also, there were differences in color combination, texture and technique which demonstrates different cultural color recognition and association. In the case of film color image, present color image was added to past color image. In the West, color was used as a tool for visualizing the state of characters' mind and the mood of movies' story but in the East color image was intended to make the character stand out by changing the value and chroma. By comparing the color image of clothes from the early 20th century and color image from film in the West and the East, it is possible to analyze the cultural symbolic image of color. This study is one of first trials to analyze the cultural differences in rotor images and their symbolic meaning. Thus, further studies should persue to find out the influence of culture on the rotor image in terms of specific quantity and quality.
The Journal of Korea Institute of Information, Electronics, and Communication Technology
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v.7
no.4
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pp.168-177
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2014
The purpose of this study is to analyze the activation plan with the traditional houses for the local tourism and culture welfare system. For the study, an investigation on the actual conditions of Youngwol-gun and a set of interviews were conducted from 13th June to 7thNovember in 2014. The analysis was conducted through the field observations and the interviews with building owners based on the criteria and SPSSWIN 18.0 program was used for statistical processes. The results of analysis are as follows. First, in order to understand the strengths and weaknesses of the local tourism and culture welfare system and to find its regional identity, the traditional houses need to be taken as a means of representing the local traditions and cultures. Second, a unique experiencecenter of traditional lifestyle and culture is necessary. Third, various local events on the tourism resources and traditional housings, development of various programs and promotion of local images are required for reinterpreting and reviewing the values of traditional houses. The implication of this study is that it provides the valuable information for enhancing the development and income of the local region and attracting tourists much more than now, since the succession and reinterpretation of the traditional housing cultures can harmonize the past, current and the future.
An interest in various description of history was increased, resolutely breaking away from the existing frame also in a historical science world, under the influence of post-modernism arisen from the mid 20th century, and for this, oral history archives and oral history methodology began to attract the attention in various academia including archival science as a method for a new writing of history. Also, under the circumstance of korea having a difficulty in performing a whole reconstruction of modern age history and a liquidation of past affairs due to an absolute lack of archives, the tendency is toward more active management of oral history archives and establishing oral history archives in the context of an excavation of new archives and a reinterpretation of history, owing to the necessity in a particular situation. This article started with a critical mind regarding an absence of a collecting policy which can help an effective development of collection from a point of view of archival science, with regard to oral history archives that recently shows a rapid increase of an interest. For this, this article intended to present an new element of a collecting policy besides the study on a collecting policy performed meanwhile by an archival science world by noticing a characteristic and a collecting method of oral history archives, this can be examined largely through 'a statement of mission and collection purpose', 'a policy of collection at large', 'a definition of maintenance and use of the holdings', and 'a guide for a development of collection', and add a proposal regarding a plan to embody the parr which should be actually applied to collection of oral history archives among the existing constituents.
The purpose of this study was to analyze and compare the shapes, colors, patterns, and hairstyles of Qipao worn by heroines that were reconstructed over times, in a Chinese TV Drama set in the 1930s and televised in 1980 and remade in 2007. We investigated how the Qipao was reinterpreted. The results were as follows. First, in televised in 1980, Qipao borrowed the characteristics of Jing Pai Qipao, which became popular in Beijing. Jing Pai Qipao was characterized by a roomy and loose silhouette that does not expose a body line, Chinese traditional 5 colors, simple plain patterns and Chinese traditional flower patterns. For hairstyle, twist and permanent wave styles that were popular in the Republican Period were very common. On the other hand, in televised in 2007, Qipao was a Hai Pai style that was very popular in Shanghai in the 1930s. Hai Pai Qipao was characterized by a tight silhouette fitted to the body, various colors such as purple and beige other than the 5 colors, Western flower patterns and modern geometric patterns. Hairstyle was changed from bang hair to a permanent wave. Second, while had a modern reinterpretation of Jing Pai Qipao that was very popular in Beijing, rather than Hai Pai Qipao that became popular in Shanghai in the 1930s, used Hai Pai Qipao that was popular in Shanghai in the 1930s. In particular, demonstrated how the mass media should reinterpret past clothing by thoroughly studying and reflecting Shanghai Qipao in the 1930s and adding viewers' aesthetic taste of 2007 without damaging an original. Moreover, it confirmed that clothing can function as language and symbol within the mass media by connecting the color and pattern of Qipao with characters' traits and the plot. It suggests that was more advanced than filmed in the 1980s. The findings of this study might provide useful data to costume designers who reinterpret costumes from a new angle.
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