• 복식
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• 제63권4호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2013

Using the premise that fashion and art reflects the characteristics of its times, this study examines the influence of Anti-form in fashion with a focus on physicality. This study combines literary survey and case analysis of both Anti-form in 1960s and 1970s and the fashion collections since 1970s when the influence of Anti-form began to appear in fashion. The influence of Anti-form focusing on physicality is summarized as deconstruction of garment and visualization of the physicality of material. Deconstruction of garment visualizes the invisible structures of garment by deconstructing, restructuring, and deforming the construction and the shapes of the garment, which is illustrated by visualization of design process, overlapping and fusing of materials, loss of stitches, and use of fabrics with flaws, questioning and destroying the sartorial conventions and aesthetic standards. Visualization of the physicality of material exposes the imperfect inside of garment which is concealed conventionally by presenting unfinished garments with minimized sewing procedure, crumpling and flattening fabrics, rubbing and fading surfaces, pulling threads, as well as using the selvages of fabrics.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.26-33
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• 2009

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of concealing, revealing, and deforming the body. Using �body�t o analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the absence of physicality in fashion focusing on the deformation of the body parts. The absence of physicality denotes the break away from the idealized and standardized body for mass productions. It tends to experiment with extreme exaggeration in form refusing to subscribe to the traditional values that build on the balance and symmetry of the body, which opposes the sartorial convention and symbolism that results in the discord between signifiant and signifi? f clothing.

• 복식
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• 제56권7호
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• pp.126-141
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• 2006

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing farm, my study develops a framework by which to classify the representation of the body in fashion focusing on the representation of physicality. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in representing body in fashion, my study examines subjects from the 14th century European costumes to fashion collections of the 20th century. In fashion, representation of the body is visually analogous to the ideal body shape and structure, including a realistic presentation of the body as well as reflection of aesthetic ideals. Representation of physicality refers to structural designs and elastic fabrication. Structural designs appeared in tailoring and bias-cut draping, as well as in stretchy clothes such as Lycra body suit and knit garments that highlights the body structure and movements of the body joints. In representing physicality in fashion, clothing forms reflect body silhouette and each body parts. Therefore, the shape of clothes (signifiant) corresponds to the anatomy and movement of the body ($signifi\'{e}$) in pursuit of aptness. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• 복식
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• 제56권9호
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• pp.66-82
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• 2006

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the representation of the body in fashion focusing on the representation of physicality. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in representing body in fashion, my study examines subjects from the 14th century European costumes to fashion collections of the 20th century. In fashion, representation of the body is visually analogous to the ideal boily shape and structure, including a realistic presentation of the body as well as reflection of aesthetic ideals. Manipulation of physicality entails the reconstruction of the ideal body image through the clothes that modify physicality into unnatural body. Ruff collar, gigot sleeve, crinoline, bustle, stomacher, and corset were all used to materialize the fictitious curves symbolizing femininity, authority, healthiness, maternity, virginity, socioeconomic status, and fertility. Accentuating specific clothing parts represents emphasizing the symbolism of the correspondent body parts. Consequently, in this phase signifiant is $signifi\'{e}$. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the firm of a dress. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.604-619
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• 2007

Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the representation and non-representation of the body in fashion. Theoretically, this study draws from Jean Baudrillard's Simulation theory which maintains that simulation develops the whole edifice of representation. My study substitutes the successive phases of the image to that of (non) representing body in fashion. The correspondences between them are; first, 'image is the reflection of a basic reality' for the representation of physicality, second, 'image masks and perverts a basic reality' for the manipulation of physicality, third, 'image masks the absence of a basic reality' for the absence of physicality, and fourth, 'image bears no relation to any reality whatever' for the absence of body in fashion. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• 한국컴퓨터정보학회논문지
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.67-71
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• 2019

With continued technology innovation in the fields of computer graphics (CG) and virtual reality (VR), digital animated avatars (or virtual humans) are evolving into ones that are more interactive at a suitable location such as museum, airport, and shopping mall. Specially, the form of the avatar (or the virtual human) realistically need to be expressed in a way that matches the users' physical space. In recent many researches, the form of virtual human has been expressed as mixed-reality human (MRH)-the virtual human combines with the physicality as the real part. In this paper, we propose to carry out a study comparing various MRH on co-presence and emotional response in two-typed virtual humans depending on how many actual parts are included: (1) (Level 1) small parts in the virtual human combined virtual components (e.g., the head only) and (2) (Level 2) large parts in the virtual human with the physicality as the real part such as head, arms, and upper body). We report on the implemented results of our virtual humans and experimental results on co-presence and emotional response.

• 영미문화
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.233-249
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• 2014

This essay addresses the missing conversation in Keats studies by showing how an enduring mystery of Romantic writing—the medium of poetic process and the physical conditions of enunciation—remains a central question in the Hyperion fragments. It is my argument that the tropes of material textuality prevalent in the Hyperions represent a bold cultural statement in which Keats reacts to the major premises underlying the Romantic culture's notion of poetry as abstraction: the Romantic notion of literary (re)production as a product of the activity of a mind. Keats's self-conscious, symbolic representation of the mechanics of poetry-making can be read as an investigation of the ways in which the Romantics were aware of and even eager to articulate the instabilities of their position on the relations between words and things. This essay does not focus exclusively on the physical embodiment of Keats's work as such, so much as the second-generation Romantic poet's contribution to the Romantics' self-conscious and critical understanding of the depiction, perception and ideologies of their poetry and its mediation.

• 조형예술학연구
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• 제6권
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• pp.140-202
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• 2004

Body means 1)the whole structure and substance of a man, animal, or plant 2) the trunk or torso of a man or animal 3) part of garment that covers the trunk 4) the fresh or material substance, as opposed to the spirit. Human body could be distinguished as fresh and spirit. Body has the meaning of physicality. Physical means the bodily and constitution, but in the meaning of constitution there is the content of spirituality. Physicality means the appearing or arising of trace or image or nuance of body. The paintings which are using bodies are 1) directly draw bodies 2) twisting or transformation or nuance of the body and highly upgrade the physical emotion or fantastic bodily nuance 3) directly rubbing artist's body on the surface of painting with pigments to elect tactile specification. These physical art have appeared broadly by various artists, mainly with the social aspects of sex, drug, psycho sexual issues. In case of Joel peter Whitkin, the reason of strong physicality in the art is from the mind of the rejection and resistance of real world which is targeting top, perfect and beauty. Further explanation, being the world which is separated top and under, men and women, beauty and ugly; further in the situation, the hierarchy, terror and pressure began and many difficult problems has derived. The contents of attacking feminists's art works are very obscene to reveal female and male's phallus strongly. Sometime, it is strongly related in the political issues. The physical paintings have strong meanings in the action by hands and feet. It supports that it could reveal the humanity with smell, breath, and traces of bodies. In the bodies, the origin of life begins which gives human life by blood lines and water. Sometime, the physical paintings are made by the blood and urine to stick the physicality for special nuance. The physical paintings are made by the image of penis and clitoris which are related in the image of urinating, ejaculation and sometime is symbolized as pens and candles to drop liquid. The selected painters who are related in physical painting are Jackson Pollock, Andrea Serano, Eve Klein, Francis Bacon, Francesco Clemente, Lichard Long, Jakes & Dinos Chapman, Anselm Kiefer, Kiki Smith and Park, Ki Woong. Francis Bacon's style is destructive in representing human shapes which give us special message about the unbearable activity of men politician, high brain, wealthy and religious people. Francesco Clemente's method is to use throat, ear hole, mouse, clitoris, belly nostrils and every holes of body to transmute human physical body. Lichard Long uses directly his body in drawing the surface of painting by using liquid of mud Jakes & Dinos Chapman destroys or transforms the bodies of human. It sometime appears wrong location of the bodies that the penis and vulva is in between human faces or nose of women, Anselm Kiefer uses human hair for representing the human decaying martyrs, and indirectly using straw, he gives special ritual action to repent the Nazi's fault. From 2002 to 2003, Park KI Woong used women womb images to intermingle the smoke shape of <9.11 terror, 2001> in New York to reveal the painful situation of the time(*).

• 통합자연과학논문집
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.37-48
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• 2022

Metabus, a three-dimensional virtual environment for digital communication, has gained a lot of attention recently. Even so, there are still many unanswered questions about the user's consciousness and behavior. A difference in nature from conventional digital communication is also unclear. This paper aims to study Metabus on a hypothetical premise by organizing the possibility of Metabus for communication activation based on a research project aimed at using Metabus to support the formation of a community of school dormitories and studio rental residents. After reviewing the establishment process and application cases of Metabus, we focus on the character (avatar) used as the user's alter ego within the metabus, which will allow customization of both form and content different from text-based communication. The "physicality" and the "spatiality" of the metaverse and the "immersion" they bring are among the most important, functional innovations. Based on this summary, a case of using metabuses will be reviewed to describe the research plan aimed at supporting community formation.

• 조형예술학연구
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• 제11권
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• pp.109-152
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• 2007

20세기 미니멀리즘으로부터 시작된 후기미술은 그린버그적인 시각의 순수성과 자율성에 대한 비판으로 시각예술에서 재현과 시각 중심주의에서 비롯된 형식논리를 문제시하게 되고, 시각을 다른 감각들이나 신체, 삶 현실, 역사 등과 분리되어 존재할 수 있다는 것을 부정한다. 이런 관점에서 본 연구는 시각(Vision) 혹은 시지각(Visuality)을 신체와 결부시켜 시각의 신체성의 가능성을 회화 공간 속에서 드러난 표현을 통해 구체적으로 찾아보고, 시지각과 신체의 상호작용성을 검토하여 지각과 그 회화적 표현에 있어서의 신체적 역할을 강조하는 것에서 출발한다. 이러한 신체성은 남성적 시각중심주의에 대해 페미니즘에서는 여성적 신체성, 즉 물질성, 촉각성 등의 공감각적 감각의 세계를 강조하며, 후기 미술의 파편적 특성은 통일성과 게슈탈트를 지향하는 시각중심주의에 대한 해체를 지향하고 있고, 참조와 파스티쉬 역시 시각의 순수성과 통일성을 부인하는 경호에서 나온 것이라고 할 수 있다. 특히 과정을 중시하는 프로세스 아트가 성행한다든지, 무정형 (formless), 혹은 앱젝트 미술(Abject Art)이 등장한다든지 하는 것은 바로 시각중심주의를 허물고 거기에 신체성, 즉 행위와 물질성을 도입하려는 움직임으로 이해될 수 있을 것이다. 또한 대지미술이나 설치미술 등은 적극적으로 관람자의 신체의 개입을 요구하게 되고, 실제적 공간과 환경 속에서 시시각각 변하는 지각을 경험하게 한다. 이렇듯 현대미술은 의식적 공간보다는 실제 공간으로, 순수기호적인 공간보디는 신체적 느낌의 공간으로, 눈이 만들어낸 공간보다는 손의 행위와 물질이 만들어 내는 공간으로, 통일적 공간보다는 혼연하며 애매한 공간으로, 혹은 시각적으로 거리를 두는 공간보다는 신체적으로 상호 얽히는 공간으로의 전환을 보여준다. 지각과 신체에 관한 이론적인 배경을 제공해 준 사람은 프랑스의 현상학자 메를로 퐁티(M. Merleau-Ponty)이며, 구체적인 작업으로 길을 예시한 사람들은 프랭크 스텔라(Frank Stella)와 프란시스 베이컨(Francis Bacon)이다. 메를로 퐁티는 후설과는 다르게 세계인식의 근원적 토대로써 명증한 의식보다는 혼연하며 애매한 지각과 그 배경으로서 신체를 내세웠는데, 이는 할 포스터 등이 말하듯 미니멀리즘의 현상학적 배경이 되면서 또한 모더니즘의 논리에 반기를 드는 후기미술에 적합한 이론적 배경을 제공해 준다. 메를로 퐁티의 $\ulcorner$지각의 현상학$\lrcorner$은 지각의 근원성과 그 신체적 배경에 관한 중요한 이론으로 지각에 있어서 신체의 작용과 특징에 대한 논의는 시각예술에 적용될 때 지각의 신체론의 회화적 함의를 설명해 줄 수 있는 근거가 되었다. 또한 메를로 퐁티의 존재론적 회화론은 신체적 표현성과 화가의 회화적 표현에 대한 구체성을 확보하기 위해 주목되었으며, 그는 세잔의 회화를 살의 존재론으로 설명하고 있는데, 이를 통해 회화의 신체적 존재론적 측면 역시 검토될 것이다. 스텔라의 경우, 70년대 이후의 작품들이 전기 작업과는 다른 경향을 보여주는 것, 이를테면 틀의 해체, 탈중심적 공간표현, 역동적이며 혼합적인 표현, 중첩에 의한 실재 공간의 허용 등이 지각의 신체성을 용인하는 쪽으로의 전향이라고 판단되었으며, 베이컨의 경우, 회화적 구조, 즉 형상(figure), 삼변화, 아플라, 우연에 의한 제작방식 등이 메를로 퐁티의 살(la chair)적인 상호교착(chiasme)의 논리를 잘 보여준다고 이해되었다. 본 연구는 먼저 현대 미술의 흐름에서 시지각과 신체의 상호작용, 혹은 신체성의 개입에 대한 변화를 확언하기 위하여 지각과 신체의 위치를 모더니즘, 미니멀리즘, 후기미니멀리즘, 그 이후의 미술이라는 사적인 흐름의 큰 틀 속에서 살펴보았으며, 이를 지각과 신체에 관한 담론과 연결시켰다. 이에 대한 근거로 지각에 관한 이론적 배경을 먼저 살펴보았는데, 지각심리학 중에서도 지각의 신체성에 대한 과학적인 논의를 제공해주는 형태심리학적 논의들을 다루고, 이어 형태심리학을 주로 시각예술의 차원에서 예시해 보여주었던 루돌프 아른하임의 논의를 다루었다. 또한 신체와 시지각의 상호작용 분석을 위한 사례로, 신체지각적인 요소를 적극 도입하고 있는 후기 스텔라와 베이컨의 회화를 중심으로 시각의 신체성의 문제를 예시하며 해석하였다. 마지막으로 본 연구에서는 신체성과 관련하여 봄의 문제를 규정지으려는 작업들, 신체의 축적으로서의 신체의 역할, 신체의 배경으로서의 현실적, 일상적 삶과의 결부로부터 회화적 표현 가능성을 모색하고 그 위상변화를 확언하고자 한다.