• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.523-533
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• 2020

Previous studies are used to examine cellulose content, degumming period, fiber quality, production yield, production cost, development limit of fiber according to physical, chemical, and microbial degumming methods. Three types of degumming methods are used to measure surface condition after degumming, necessity of additional degumming and degree of impurity removal. First, previous studies confirmed that the microbial degumming method is superior in terms of cellulose content, fiber quality, production yield, production cost, and fiber development possibility. Second, surface condition and the necessity of additional degumming were analyzed by SEM. The black skin binding material was removed in the case of the Sangnangyi and chemical degumming; however, it was insufficient and further degumming was required. Skin fiber binding material was removed in the case of microbial degumming and the surface was cleanest after degumming; in addition, most showed the form of yarn decomposition. The FT-IR spectrum determined the degree of removal of impurities and showed that it can utilize inherent physical properties as the best degumming method. The degree of removal of pectin and lignin by microbial degumming was cleanest with hemicellulose also reduced by microbial degumming.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.517-523
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• 2003

We studied the physical properties of silk fabrics after degumming, the dyeability and the color fastness of silk fabrics after degumming and sericin fixing. As the sericin was removed from silk fabrics, the rate of weight loss increased and both the abrasion resistance and the drape coefficient decreased. This means that the amount of the sericin remained in silk fabrics significantly affects the physical properties of silk fabrics. On the surface and the cross-section of silk fabrics, the silk fibers enclosed by the sericin seemed to be in a lump shape. Each fibroin strand, however, got scattered, as the process of degumming went through. The dyeability of silk fabrics degummed decreased at between 20$^{\circ}C$∼80$^{\circ}C$ the dyeing temperature, on the other hand, it significantly increased over 80$^{\circ}C$. The dyeability of the sericin-fixed silk fabrics was lower than that of the non-serin-fixed silk fabrics, to a little extent. The colorfastness of crocking in the dyed-silk fabrics was a little low and that of the sweat was much lower in a basic sweat. Especially, the colorfastness of the partially degummed silk fabrics was low, because the sericin was not stable in the condition of sweat. Therefore, the process of sericin fixing is essentially required, for the partially degummed silk fabrics and the process of degumming itself.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.31-40
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to investigate the change of the physical properties, bending and luster properties, which are related to the touch and appearance of silk fabrics modified by the degumming process. The silk has long been known as one of the most elegant and soft textile materials. The raw silk yarn, or cocoon bave, spun from the spinneret, is rather stiff due to the sericin covering the two fibroins together. The sericin can be removed during a degumming process. The removal of the sericin would result in remarkable change in the physical properties of the raw silk fabrics, including luster of the fabrics, which process parameters could possibly be utilized to adequately control the silk fabric properties. The KES(Kawabata Evaluation System) is a testing methodology that has been used with considerable success for predicting the hand and tailorability of apparel fabrics. This study uses one of the KES, bending tester, to measure the bending properties of the silk fabrics degummed for specified period to change the physical/mechanical properties of the fabric. The KES bending measurement revealed that the bending rigidity decreased for both the warp and weft direction of the silk fabrics with the increase of the degumming period. It has been shown in this study that the some of the hand-related physical properties, including the bending rigidity, drapability, and luster, could be modified with the change in the degumming period.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.2 s.87
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• pp.31-38
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• 2006

Silk fabrics are very popular and widely used because of their elegant appearance. However, silk fabrics generally have easy wrinkle, and do not stretch and deform permanently after machine washing. Then the stretched properties of silk fabrics are important for the application of industrial textile materials such as formal and sports wear. Thus, this research surveys the covering, weaving and degumming conditions for stretched silk fabrics. As a result, yarn breaking stress was reduced with increasing spindle speed, and the yarn twists were optimized under the covering condition of polyurethane/silk with PVA pretreatment. In addition, the shrinkage of the silk fabrics treated with star degumming process was reduced by continuous NaOH degumming process. The fabrics showed the fabric physical properties with optimum stretched properties and evenness surfaces.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.41-51
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• 1992

In this thesis, both soap and enzymatic degumming method were adopted and the optimum degumming conditions were obtained. Difference between the two degumming methods in silk fiber state was investigated and analyzed on the basis of the results of physical testings, polarizing microscopy, scanning electron microscopy, viscosity measurement, (${\alpha}$＋$\varepsilon$) amino group contents measurement, birefringence measurement, amino acid analysis, thermal analysis, infrared spectroscopy and x-ray diffraction analysis. The results obtained were summarized as follows; Physical test results of the degummed silk fiber showed that the tenacity and the elongation of enzymatic degummed silk fiber were lower than those of soap degummed fiber. But SEM observation and amino acid analysis showed almost the same tendency in the two degumming methods. The viscosity of enzymatic degummed silk fiber was lower than that of soap degummed fiber, but (${\alpha}$＋$\varepsilon$) amino group contents was higher in the enzymatic degummed fiber. It can be suggested that the enzymatic degummed silk fibroin was more degraded than the soap degummed fibroin. The birefringence, endothermic temperature of DSC spectrum, IR crystallinity and X-ray lateral order factor of enzymatic degummed silk fiber were higher than those of soap degummed fiber. It seems that the enzymatic degummed silk fiber has the higher crystallinity than that of soap degummed one according to the above results. However, it can be inferred that these differences between soap and enzymatic degummed fiber would be lessened if pretreatment and aftertreatment were included in the enzymatic degumming process.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.16-25
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• 1984

The sericin fixation of silk fabrics by epoxy resins was studied in the presence of aqueous salt solution in different solvents at the indicated temperature for the desired time. Heavy weight gains were obtained in the reaction with glycerol diglycidyl ether (EX-313) and ethylene glycol diglycidyl ether (EX-810) catalyzed by potassium thiocyanate in such solvents as carbon tetrachloride and p-chloroethylene. The obtained results were summarized as follows; 1) The tested resins were found similar in reaction behavior to silk fabric. The effect of fixation and weight gains was higher in EX-810 than EX-313. 2) The weight gains were increased with reaction time and temperature, and degumming ratio reached a constant value in 90 min at 70$^{\circ}C$. 3) The weight gains and the degumming ratio reached an equilibrium at 3-5% of epoxy concentration. 4) The weight gains were remarkably influenced and increased by the concentration of salt solution. The degumming ratio reached an equilibrium over 0.5N concentration of salt. 5) The weight gains were increased with the dipping time in gently-sloping. The degumming ratio reached an equilibrium over 15 min dipping. 6) The effect of sericin fixation of hydrophobic solvents, such as Carbon Tetrachloride, p-Chloroeth-ylene, Cyclohexane, Xylene and Toluene, was found suitable. 7) The effect of drying temperature was not remarkable on the weight gains and the degumming ratio. 8) There was a slight decrease in the moisture regain of sericin-fixed silk and it may be possible to maintain the moisture regain in the sericin-fixed silk by the epoxy resins. 9) The results on testing physical properties of sericin-fixed silk fabric were as follows; The crease recovery was almost not different from undegummed fabric, but inferior to degummed fabric. The tensile strength was improving in accordance with the effect of sericin fixation, either the elongation did.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.152-156
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• 1994

The sericin fixation of raw silk by formalin and glutaraldehyde mixed solutions was done and the effect of sericin fixtion by various conditions on degumming ratio, whiteness and physical properties was investigated and discusse. The obtained results were summarized as follows ; The sericin fixation by 1% formalin solution and upward, regardlles the concentration of glutaraldehyde solution, improved the whitenes of raw silk to 96% level of non fixed raw silk. The decrease of whiteness by degumming was prevented effectively by treatment of formalin and glutaraldehyde mixed solutions. The complete sericin fixation was obtained by the treatment of mixed solution including above 0.5% formalin solution. The proper treatment of sericin fixation can make increase the values of tenacity and elongation of silk.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.67-72
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• 1987

This study was carried out for the optimum predegumming in the protease degumming process of silk fabrics by ocmparing the physical properties of silk fabrics degummed with different weight losses of predegumming. 1. In twill habutai, the stiffness of fabric was reduced and the smoothness was improved with increasing weight loss of predegmming, however, the soft feeling value which means the total handle value of medium fabric for lady, was maximum at 20% of predegumming weight loss. 2. In the case of crepe de chine representing thin fabric for lady, the anti-drape stiffness was relatively increased with 22% weight loss of predegumming. However, the other physical properties, such as the flexibility with soft feeling were less related to the degrees of predegumming.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.58-65
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• 2003

This study was carried out to investigate the characteristics of the soluble sericins after degumming and after hydrolysis of insoluble sericin with various enzymes. Physical and chemical characteristics of the soluble sericins were also studied and pack test was conducted. Electro donating ability of the various sericins became higher as high＞low＞KP＞PP＞PA. In FT-IR analysis, the band of insoluble sericin at 3,285cm$\^$-1/ was shifted to the lower wavelengths in soluble sericins. The intensity of the amide II band was reduced and shifted to lower wavelengths as a result of hydrolysis. In DSC analysis, all sericins showed endothermic peaks around 200$^{\circ}C$ and insoluble sericin showed another peak at 250$^{\circ}C$. The endothermic peak of the insoluble sericin was found at higher temperature compared with those of the soluble sericins which showed at 300$^{\circ}C$. Whiteness of the various sericins became higher as low＞high＞PP＞PA＞PK＞IN and yellowness were PK＞PA＞PP＞low＞high. In pack test, the skin packed with the non-woven fabric treated with the various sericins was more smooth and less oily.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.44-50
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• 1984

The effects of sodium pyrophosphate, sodium tripolyphosposphate and ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid as a degumming aid reagent were investigated under the conditions of underground water and dimineralized water for the scouring water sources. The changes of water qualities by adding the condensed sodium phosphates and the physical properties of scoured silk fabric were examined, respectively. 1. The water hardness of underground water was decreased by adding the condensed sodium phosphates and it was further reduced according to the increasing temperature. The water hardness reducing power of sodium pyrophosphate was a little stronger than that of sodium tripolyphosphate. 2. The sodium silicate as an alkaline reagant for scouring decreased the water hardness, but the sodium carbonate increased it in the underground water. 3. The pH value of 0.4% soap and 0.25% sodium silicate mixed solution after boiling was. 9.80, but it was leveled upto 9.90 by adding 0.05% sodium pyrophosphate and upto 9.95 by 0.02% ehtylene diamine tetraacetic acid, respectively. 4. The masking action of Fe$\^$3+/ ions dissolved in the scouring water was more remarkable by ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid than by the condensed sodium phosphates. Of the condensations, sodium tripolyphosphate was more effective than sodium pyrophosphate in the action. 5. Genrally, the dimineralized water scouring increased the boil-off ratio with reducing the flexural rigidity of fabric which was negatively related with the favorablility of hand-touch more than the underground one did. 6. Under the underground water scouring, the addition of ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid increased the boil-of ratio and compressive elasticity of fabric with reducing the flexural rigidity more than that of the condensed sodium phosphates did. 7 The additions of sodium tripolyphosphate and ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid reduced the flexural rigidity of fabric with raising the boil-off ratio even in the dimineralized water scouring, but there was no sifnificant difference between both of them.