• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.74-81
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to review the relationship between modern homosexuals' costume tendency in socio-cultural terms and the garment tendency reflected as high fashion and thereby, determine the homosexualism being established as a recent fashion trend. The homosexualism shown in the fashion were categorized into three aspects; a resistant tendency departing from the conventional controlling culture, a fetishism or perversion tendency satisfying in sexual inclination by emphasizing certain physical parts or using certain items, and play to express a sexual identity departing from the fixed social view. The homosexualism being suggested as new fashion trend in this society dominated by the post-modernism art must mean an integrated sense of sex just beyond a simple perversion to express the self-identity in a natural way. It is conceived that the homosexualism would be expanded towards a new horizon of costumes as long as the division of sexes becomes more obscure and the decentralized bipolarization for mutual co-existence between two sexes continues to be main stream of fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.1
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• pp.49-66
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• 2003

In the relationship between post-modern feminism and the body. the body of women, which has been taken as 'other' by dominant arguments, has escaped from the fixed idea at post-modern times and the post-modern feminists tried to escape from the taste of the times about body image that was prevalent in the former times.'The taste of the times' here means the fixed physical form of ideal women's body by the educational custom, and it includes the educational prescription which establishes the docile body of women. This kind of educational custom aims at the perfect and permanent restriction on size, shape, desire, attitude and movement as well as on the overall demeanor and each part of the body. And the custom produces 'dependent and trained'. that is, inferiorized women's body. Hence, this paper points out that the feminity as a fixed Physical form should be overcome in order to move forward, and as one part of the effort, it attempts to analyze the designs which deformed and distorted women's body in 1990s. This research indicates that the work, which tries to deviate the fantasized and casted women's mystery, has been closely connected with the expression of 'non-separate bodies' and 'irregular body shapes' in 1990s, which aims at escaping from the fixation of women's body Image. Therefore, it is concluded that the target design trend of this research, which expressed the deformation and perversion of the body, provides the anti-these against the ideal body image of women and the these of feminity. which have been reproduced in various methods and patterns throughout the public and the culture on the whole by expressing the refusal and deviation of the existing women's body image through the post-fixation of the body pattern.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.323-333
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to analyze the meaning and formative features of the black color reflected on the fetish fashion. This study was proceeded mainly by analyzing with references and plates of magazine. The results of the study were as follows ; First, the sexual liberation and revolution have certainly led to a reassessment of sexual deviations, which changed the meaning of fetishism that has been only regarded as sexual perversion, so that it symbolied a new sexual perception and identification. As the result, black in fetish fashion was symbolized a new fetishism\`s definition which refused to distinguish male from female, and also reflected the meaning to express the second sex that wanted to express themselves. Second, the formative features of black color in fetish fashion have appeared tightness and bareness in form, and in material, glancing materials changed by the effect of light, and elasticity materials-leather, rubber, PVC, and laycra. By these features, black fetish fashion has drawn a higher attention on human body than the dress itself as a symbol about the psychology of erotic sensations and sexual images of the self appearing in black color.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.237-256
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• 1997

Women's clothes which represent feminity was one of the female oppression polices in the society of phallocentric sexual order. Many women were eager to good-looking as a comouflage for inferiority of their own sex which was the theory of fashion of Freud. He insist that it's the driving force for women fashion. Thight-lacing corset high heel and foot-binding which was made for men's pleasure limited women's social activity and unfortunately recycled. Such clothes or shoes makes women belong to men's power but its also one of the self controls for women. The materialization and sex objects of women was due to fashion which encouraged by men. Many facts of fetish gradually emerged I fashion and fetishism itself is no more than sexual perversion or low class sex culture. This paper is focused on relationship between fetishism and fashion which approaching based the feminism. We investigated how human ambivalence which persuit both modesty and fetishism is manifested in clothes. We also compared modern fetish fashion with corset and shoes which are sterotypes of classic fetishism

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.60-75
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• 2002

The purpose of this research is to understand the gender identity expressed in Madonna music video texts and performances. Madonna has reconstructed the fluid identities through the variations of body, images, costumes, and attitudes . The results are as fellows; ① Her punky sexuality is to be seen the flash trash look, kitsch fashion, which reconstructs a good/bad taste, modesty/immodesty, the relations of under/outer wear using bawdy sexuality through her early Virgin tour. ② Her Heterosexuality is to be seen the glamourous look, traditional images of women, which represents the passive feminity of patriarch. ③ Her sadomasochism sexuality is to be seen the bondage look of dominatrix image, which deconstructs sexual taboos; represents sexual power. ④ Her bisexuality is to be seen androgynous look, the 3rd species look using masculinity/feminity signifier, which deconstructs the stereotypes of gender roles. ⑤ Her homosexuality is to be seen the fetish fashion by drag and lesbian, which deconstructs the dichotomy of normality/perversion; opens a possibility of women subjectivity of sexual desires.

• American Studies
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.179-202
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• 2018

This study approaches the novel from psychodynamic perspectives, where the narrative is woven into the strands of traumatic memories and past. Deriving from Julia Kristeva's discussion on melancholia, this paper discreetly examines Hata as a melancholic, who is unaware of what he has lost and even that he has lost. Racially abject but in defiance of his separation from 'the mother,' Hata introjects loss as his own subjectivity. The insoluble void causes him to wander through the bravado of belongingness, which he eventually transforms into Sublimation. This paper reads that Hata finally faces his own black sun, deviating from his earlier gesture life; thus, the novel becomes a successful case study of the melancholic. However, female bodies are at stake, subsumed under Hata's sexual perversion. The novel renders trauma behind the fragmented narrative of an Asian American man at the expense of consuming morbid 'feminine' bodies physically and psychologically.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.8
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• pp.73-85
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• 2002

Decadence is a phenomenon that people express fear from their inside, so unsound aspects appear in the social culture when the existing society is about to be collapsed. This study covered the cultural and aesthetic meaning and the role of decadence by examining the concept and phenomenon of it and analyzing the real case of expression appeared in the modern fashion. Characteristics of decadent phenomenon were divided into sexual corruption, ideality, cynicism and extreme technique, and decadent expression appeared in the fashion images was examined based on the divided phenomenon. Main results are as fellows. People bring the incidents that animals go through into relief, sticking to animal instinct when the society is on the decline. At that time, sexual decadence becomes remarkable, so voyeurism by exposure in their dress is deepen, revealing abnormal sexual propensity with bisexual tendency and sexual perversion. The real facts and appearance of people are revealed by transforming and distorting bodies for the fear of humans inside suppressed in the fin-de-siecle mood. The sense of alienation and helplessness of people anxious about the future is developed to cynicism expressing the uncertain emotion in their dress, and the formative methods of dismantlement. destruction and abrasion appear to form sickly images in the gloomy and cold mood. The intention of affirmative decadence is realized by mixing heterogeneous styles and producing new things. Extreme decorative technique and gorgeousness are even mysterious and show the highest refinement.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.13-25
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to investigate the concept and characteristics of 'grotesque,' examine the aesthetic characteristics of grotesque reflected in arts and dress, and modern fashion. The findings are as follows: 1) Grotesque indicates unnatural, unpleasant, and exaggerated that it upsets or shocks person. The characteristics of grotesque include terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust. 2) The grotesque art represented terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust by disordered form, nonnatural things, evil world, unorthodox methods, unrealistic image, strange dreamland. 3) The grotesque dress represented terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust by exaggerated silhouette, exaggerated adornment, excessive decoration, incroyables, using exaggerated silhouette, crinoline silhouette, bustle silhouette, surrealist style, extraordinary materials, glam rock style, unique silhouette, cyber look. 3) Terror was implied in the punk look suits of Junya Watanabe, and exaggerated outers of Viktor & Rolf. Abnormality was shown in the atypical suit of John Galliano, Junya Watanabe's dress decorated with the extreme ruff, Thom Browne's suit of abnormal proportion. Unreality was reflected in the architectural dress of Gareth Pugh, Mermaid dress of Giles, the surreal suit of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. Amusement was represented in the amusing suit of Gareth Pugh, John Galliano's dress of sexual perversion. Disgust was reflected in the decadent dress of Thierry Mugler, Undercove's suit, and the ensemble of shocking details.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.4 s.218
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• pp.1-9
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• 2006

This study examines the esthetic characteristics in the haute couture work of Jean Paul Gaultier, who represents the fashion in France and is famous for avant-garde and experimental works through dismantling, from the first haute couture collection in 1997 to the present. The materials for the study are the precedent studies, the related literature, and the photographs of the works and the interview articles in domestic and international fashion journals. Three characteristics are revealed in his works. First of all, he provided a transcendental fashion different from the established wearing or ornamental ways by dismantling the dichotomies between male and female, time and space, and beauty and ugliness. Second, he reflected the decadent beauty recognized as representing women's sexual and provocative expression based on exposure, suppression, perversion, and grotesque manifestations by shaping an esthetic value within a different point of view. Finally, he was characterized as being transcendental with an eclectic fusion of intercultural differences or dynamics, items in costume formation, time and space, and eastern and western. This transcendental expression, Gaultier's desire for creativeness, can be an ideal characterizing this era.

• Journal of English Language & Literature
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• v.60 no.2
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• pp.211-232
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• 2014

In late Victorian England, a "pervert" meant two things. One meaning designated a person who "turned" or converted from one sect of Christianity to another. In Wilde's time this referred specifically to converts from the established state Church of England to the transnational Roman Catholic Church. The other, newer meaning designated someone who turned from conventional heterosexual relations to a (as yet unnamed) homosexual orientation. In the context of the late Victorian empire, both were considered dangerous. The rising social and political influence of Roman Catholicism appeared threatening as a transnational Church invading a national one. For the Anglican Church of England, this crisis was played out what came to be known as the Oxford Movement, still influential during Wilde's time as a student there from 1874 to 1878. What is interesting in Wilde's life, as in his work, is the way he himself played with the dangerous transgressions inherent in being a "pervert." Sexually, he was converted to same-sex love while still a married man. In terms of religion, he remained fascinated with Catholicism, allegedly converting on his death-bed. But what is provocative is way that Wilde used one "perversion" to play into another: so that in such works as The Picture of Dorian Gray and Salome, his version of a kind of anti-Catholic Catholicism becomes a site of sexual desire, and sexual desire expression for that kind of spirituality, which, as unrequited longing, can ultimately n find no object adequate to its imagination.