• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 2007.11a
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• pp.111-114
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• 2007

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.31-39
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• 1980

The basic pattern of skirt should be functional in addition to be fit the body. The author paid special attention to the expansion and contraction of the shell which were made the lower trunk and thigh caused by sitting motions. The replicas of the shell were taken by using a gypsum method on 1 female under 4 standardized motions; standing motion, (basic motion), sitting on the chair with flextion 90' at the hip and the knee joints sitting with dropping knees, and sitting with benting legs side wards. Those replicas obtained were developed to the patterns and changes in shape and area of those were measured. Typical displacement and transformation of the shell surface patterns were showed geographycally fig 5-1 to 5-4. mean values of expansion and constriction were obtained by measuring the shell surface on 60 female under the 4 motions. the mean values of it were showed numerically in Table 1-1 to 1-3. The following results were obtained; 1. Vertical constriction of front of the shell were observed near sulcus in guinalis, and vertical extension were near the knees. Horizontal extension were observed near the thighs and the knees. 2. Vertical constrictions of the back of the shell were observed near the knees. It seemed to be influnced the flexion angles of knee points. vertical extension were near gluteus and thighs. Horizontal constriction were small, and horizonlal extension were near gluteus. 3. The high rates of constriction and extension were found near sulcus in guinalis, glutes, and knees. 4. The rates of constriction and extension on the waist line were very low. 5. The highest values of constriction and extension were found in hip and knees.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.425-431
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to observe the changes of skirt length of knitted flare skirts when the seamless test garments were made which had been having full shape while being knitted and to change and amend the challenges in advance when those were knitted. For this study, I made 6 kinds of knitted test garments of wool 100% yarn with seamless knitting machine, which differed from each other by skirt angles ($90^{\circ},\;180^{\circ}$) and gauges (7G, 12G, 15G), and then I measured deflection changes of their length for 2 weeks. Findings and conclusions drawn from this study were as follows: First, the side seam line of full shape hecame somewhat longer than center. Second, 7G and $180^{\circ}$ knitted flare skirt showed the biggest length deflection changes. Third, there was no difference at rear waist deflection changes between front pattern and rear. Fourth, it was difficult to control the tensions of right and left strings as to the knitting directions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.5-14
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• 2001

Excavated costumes at the women's tomb in 17C have been sustained good condition. These materials give us that Jang ui(長衣) and so chang ui(소창의) with chechori(유), skirt, trousers(袴) reflects on women's fashion style at that time. By seeing these costumes, we can get the characteristics of costumes in mid-chosun era with chechori, skirt, jang ui, so chang ui etc. The features of chechori in this area are follows : form - diagonal gil, collar - kalkit and tangkokit, length - about 50cm, materials - silk, cotton, grass-cloth, kind - single, double. clothing padded with cotton wool etc. It is the first time that chang ui, one of Po, is excavated in this area. There are three pieces of jang ui which is significant data to study deeply on the costume in 1700's. Jang ui mainly made of silk in pattern, silk, cotton and decorated stylish printing on the robes. With these material and style, we can induce the mode of mid-chosun period. Through comparative studying we have many chances to understand women's the garment for the dead(염습의) in mid-chosun period.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.19
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• pp.105-125
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• 1992

The research, aiming an automatic pattern design of Korean Costume by utilizing CAD system, tried Grading, Seaming and Marking with a theme of girl's color-strip blouse & skirt. The content & conclusion of the research can be outlined as follows; 1) As we reviewed the current situation of Korean costume which becomes more likely celebrational or festival costume, while the demand of it is getting increase, it's being dealt mostly as ready-made dresses with different qualities & designs. Especially childrens ready-made ones were highly demanded to be picked up as the theme. 2) For the original drawing of children's color-strip blouse & skirt, Kyung-Ja Park's drawing method was used here, and for the substitute of particular body parts absolute size, Joo-Won Lee's standard size chart from a size-study by ages. 3) To work with CAD system we had input master pattern, drawn for age 5 as basic size, then graded six step-sizes for 1-11 years old. For add-subtract of particular body parts size, we graded through computing the standard variation among items to get the pattern developed into ready-made standard size, we can make precise plotting by grading wanted size very rapidly if we correct the rule of changed items different from standard size to make utilization possible enough with easy order method of ready-made Korean Dress. 4) We produced Marker after attaching a margin to seam accordingly by parts for each pattern using P/D/S to mark, In mass gament-cutting, the loss of time and material can minimized. In this research the apparel CAD system which has been utilized and only be western fashion industry was introduced for the design of ready-made Korean costume and utilized it in Grading, Marking which are critical steps to improve productivity and have reported the result in the research. Thus we expect that less cost, improved productivity and better quality with minimized loss of material from marking as well as from prompt and precise size-drawing. Furthermore the utilization of CAD system is considered as an effective one in terms of the research & the development to remove effective one in terms of the research & the development to remove irrational elements in the design and production process of Korean costume as well as in terms of the study of Korean Costume development through creative works of Korean Costume.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.55-64
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was to make suitabl skirts pattern for pregnant woman on the basis of their physical characteristics. 9 women who were 3,5,8 and 10 months pregnant were measured using Martin's anthropometric instrument on 12 items and sliding gauge on 4 items. The measures were analyzed statistically. Skirts pattern was developed based on the measurements of the essential items for skirts construction. The sensory evaluation was applied to estimate fittness and comfort in Rim's method skirt pattern. The items which showed a remarkable and significant increase were anterior waist circumference, anterior waist height and abdominal circumference. The anterior part of waist and abdorminal sections projected forward gradually. According to statistical analysis on the questionnaire, all the items showed significant difference between the new and the Rim's method skirts pattern with the new pattern having higher scores.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.383-394
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• 1996

Even it's not easy to in the cycle of the change without the qualification of the data, but we can try to figure out a cycle of change in fashion as Kroeber used content analysis. As content analysis with quantitative data increases the objectivity, especially in the case of highly complex materials like s appearance, multi-directional research method; quantitative and qualitative methods are combined in this study. In this research, first the change in hair length(HL), hair width(HW), hair height(HH) was examined to find out possible cyclic aspects of change in each elements and the significant relationships among the hair style was probed and the cyclic aspects between hair style elements and skirt style elements were compared. The data was analyzed by using Time series analysis and Pearson correlation coefficients. The statistical analysis of the hair style of 20th century showed that the hair style's elements changed independently and indicated the cyclic aspects in hair style as Kroeber's fashion cycle. To consider of this result, the hair style changed in a cyclic pattern, its pattern were different from skirt style's. And as hair style's change was affected by change, the hair styles change appeared during wars and disappeared during a social stabilization; this result supports social change theory.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.875-887
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• 2015

The analysis in this work is about costumes among the rhythmic gymnasts in competition, which is intended to develop designs about rhythmic gymnastics costume and provide the basic material from the results. In its research method and range, the general information on rhythmic gymnastics was reviewed in literature and the case analysis was followed about costumes of world high rankers in competition during 2012~2015 seasons. Research showed the following results. First, leotard took a shape of skirt-added one-piece type, where a combination with long tight sleeve, round neck line, and stand-up collar had a relatively higher percentage in design. With regard to a bottom line of skirt, an amorphous type was most common that highlights rhythmical beauty without any particular form. This design exposed shoulders and waists on both sides, expressing the feminine beauty. Second, in color used mainly, white appeared most frequently. In its combination, more than three were employed. Third, transparent mesh was applied as basic, where lace and chiffon were used. Abstract pattern took the highest portion in pattern. Particularly, crystal bead or gradation coloring was used to maximize the visually splendid image, giving an effect of optical illusion as if neckless clothing, choker, bracelet, or glove were worn. Fourth, it appeared that the costume for each event was changed in every season, when only music was substituted but the same earlier costume was put on for the different event.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.60 no.2
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• pp.273-287
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• 2022

(K)Hanbok, which is Korea's traditional clothing, differs from the Chinese Hanfu or Japanese Kimono. This study aims to understand the fundamental differences between (K)Hanbok and Hanfu. The Goryeo Dynasty (K)Hanbok, which was particularly popular in China, was established because the Ming Dynasty Hanfu and Chinese fashion were considerably influenced by the 'Koryo Yang'. Firstly, while (K)Hanbok is bulky, Hanfu of the Han Dynasty is characterized by forming a slim silhouette. Due to the climate of the Northern Hemisphere, (K)Hanbok shows a rich silhouette comprising multiple layers of inner pants and a pleated skirt over a voluminous underskirt. On the other hand, the Han's Hanfu creates a straight silhouette in the form of a wrap, revealing the contours of the body. The pleated skirt of the (K)Hanbok can use six to twelve width fabrics, depending on the social position; however, the Hanfu of the Han is a skirt without any pleats. Secondly, the clothing patterns, which have various shapes, are totally different in how they are made and sewn. The Korean (K)Hanbok is a two-piece separate, whereas the Chinese Hanfu style is a one-piece with a skirt. The short length of the (K)Hanbok jacket has a Sup which is cut and pasted allowing the front closure to overlap. Nevertheless, the Hanfu of the Han does not have this Sup because it is of a wrap-around, one-piece style and has an exceptionally large front, and wraps around at the waist which extends to the sides. Thirdly, the (K)Hanbok jacket has separate string Gorums for fastening, and an additional belt around the waist; however, in the case of Gorum, it is unnecessary for a wrapping style of Hanfu. Fourthly, Koreans as an agricultural horse-riding people, basically wore the trousers attached a comfortable gusset, while the Chinese Hanfu had no pants, but the Chinese wore Gaedanggo pants which exposed the hips, inevitably during the Warring States period.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.43 no.5 s.207
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• pp.43-55
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• 2005

This research was designed to investigate and compare the characteristics of preferred clothing textiles for slacks and skirt of college students. One hundred five subjects majoring in fashion design were surveyed and the subjects selected three favorite materials among 120 samples presented in a swatch book. The subject's weighted frequencies were added tv order of preference. The results of this study were as follows: 1. In the spring and fall seasons, black twill cotton drill was preferred foremost as a textile for slacks, and medium gray basket weaved cotton pinhead with stripe pattern was preferred as a textile for skirts. 2. In summer, dark bluish gray plain linen crash was the most preferred material for slacks, and pale yellow plain linen tropical cloth was preferred for skirts. 3. In winter, olive gray cotton corduroy was the most favorite textile for slacks, and moderate brown twill wool hound check was preferred for the skirt. 4. In thickness and weight, textiles for winter were thicker and heavier than those chosen for other seasons, and textiles for skirts showed various thicknesses and weights as compared with those of slacks. 5. In fiber content, natural fibers such as cotton and wool were preferred for an seasons. 6. In the weave of textiles, twiu we,3ve was preferred for spring, fall and winter season, and plain weave was preferred for summer. 7 The most preferred colors for slacks were B and PB, and those for the skirts were YR and PB. For color characteristics, solid fabrics were generally preferred, and patterned fabrics were preferred for skirts as compared with slacks.