• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.4
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• pp.49-54
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• 1997

Methods of the flare skirt pattern making are presented variously among foreign and domestic test books. Three of them are : First the method is using the basic skirt pattern, secondly the method is quartering rectangle of skirt length $\times\frac{W}4$, finally the method is substituting waist size for formula. But, these books don't include the calculating method of the hem circumference. This calculating method express the shape of flare skirt and the using length of trimming -race and frill-. This study aims at proposing the calculating formula of the hem circumference and the standardization of pattern making technical skill. The result were as follows. 1. The calculating formula of hem circumference had regular ratio in $180^{\circ}$, $270^{\circ}$ and $360^{\circ}C$ flare. That was (HEM) = $(\frac{(5\;{\times}\;(W\;+\;1)}{4\;{\times}\;A}+(SK.L))\;{\times}\;A\;{\times}\;0.785$. A was 4 in $180^{\circ}$, 6 in $270^{\circ}$, 8 in $360^{\circ}$. 2. The error of hem circumference from 46 to 86 centimeter of waist size was between 0.11875 and -0.63125 centimeter in $180^{\circ}$, $270^{\circ}$ and $360^{\circ}$ flare skirt. This formula was less in the error.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.183-191
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• 2020

In this study, in order to obtain basic data on the development of a new hanbok skirt pattern for developing a customizing system, a new hanbok brand skirt pattern was compared and analyzed. After analyzing the patterns of six new hanbok brands, virtual simulation was performed to evaluate the appearance, clothing pressure, and airgap. As a result of analyzing the waist skirt patterns of commercial new hanbok brands A, B, C, D, E, and F, it was found that they were produced in different dimensions despite the free size skirt of the same design. The pattern of new hanbok waist skirt was composed of a flat pattern like the traditional hanbok. As a result of appearance evaluation, it was evaluated that there were significant differences between the patterns of the six brands in all the evaluation items on the front, side, and back. In the appearance evaluation, it was evaluated that the waist skirt of the B brand was excellent. As a result of examining the color distribution and airgap, it was evaluated that the airgap was large in most parts due to the characteristics of the waist skirt worn around the waist, and the garment pressure was low. In this paper, we propose a basic data for standardizing dimensions and patterns according to activation New Hanbok. It is thought that a unified pattern development based on the B brand pattern should be made.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.69-79
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to find the proper width of fabric which can bring high efficiency on productivity. We focus on the marking method by comparing and analyzing the marking efficiency of A-line skirt. This study employs 4 criteria to mark the A-line skirt, which are cutting method, angle, width, and direction, respectively. There can be 2 different cutting methods(fold pattern and add seam pattern at the front and back center line), and 2 different angles(warp angle and bias angle). Also, width of the fabric can be classified into 2 groups(110cm, 150cm), and marking direction can be grouped into 2(one direction marker and one direction per each size marker). These 4 criteria make 16($2^*2^*2^*2$) cases for this study. Main findings are follows. First, the skirt with folded at the center line had higher efficiency rate than the skirt with add seam at the center line. Second, the skirt with the 150cm width has higher efficiency rate than that of 110cm. Third, fixing the warp angle has higher efficiency rate than that of fixing the bias angle at the front and back center line. Finally, one direction per each size marker has much higher efficiency than the one direction marker.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.433-446
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• 2001

Recently, according to changes in fashion trends, the importance of stretch fabric stands out. A lot of studies on non-stretch woven fabrics have been made, but few studies on stretch fabrics has been made yet. Especially, the study on ease for the patterns, according to body types, of stretch has not been made at all. The purpose of this study was to make clear reduction ratio due to the stretch ratio and to find out the ease for the patterns of stretch skirt according to standard body type to improve the aesthetics and wearing satisfaction. Therefore, fundamental data for aesthetic and functional patternmaking of the stretch skirt can be suggested. The results from the study were as follows: 1. The results from the appearance test were as follows. For the ease on waist, W+0㎝ and W-1㎝ for standard body type were suggested for the best fit. For the ease on hip, H+2㎝ and H+0㎝ for standard body type were suggested for the best wearing best fit. 2. The results from wearing satisfaction test were as follows. W+0㎝, H+2㎝ for standard body type were suggested for the best wearing satisfaction. 3. Based on the results from the above tests, the pattern reduction ratios for stretch skirt were as follows: pattern reduction ratio 3.0∼4.6% of waist, 2.1∼4.3% of hip for standard body type were suggested for the appropriate reduction ratio for stretch skirt. 4. The result from this study for stretch skirt was as follows: For standard body type, W+0㎝, W-1㎝ for waist and H+2㎝, H+0㎝ for hip were appropriate for stretch skirt pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.303-311
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• 1998

We developed a pattern drafting computer program using a popular CAD program for the purpose of the automatic manufacturing and education based on the concept of the easy -order-system which can easily reflect body characteristics and design favors of individuals to the ready-made clothing. The programs were written in Auto LISP which can utilise most of frictions of the Auto CAD, and the result of the design for an full-pleated skirt was shown. Also, we devised an easy way to set the location of reference points by inputting of tangential angle only for the use of the cubic spline curve which can represent body shape very well. Finally, by marking down all of symbols needed in manufacturing process, we completed the automatic pattern drafting program to make it useful as an industrial pattern without any amendment or correction in cutting and sewing operation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.29
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• pp.117-126
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• 1996

As the current stage of the fashion begins to follow the styles of the past the study on the past costume is getting more importance and as the methodolgy of the study the accu-rately approached study through the rehabili-tation of the past cosume is more needed than the simple rearrangement of the historical documents. By this methodology this study can be positioned as a re-creation activity. The results of the study are as follows. 1) Style: The general silhouette is the style to emphasize the waist and to widen skirt at the lower part of the body. The front shows hourglass silhouette but the side shows S-line silhouette. The dress is two-piece composed of bodice and skirt. 2) Color and Fabric: The main color is dull powder blue end the sub color is ivory. The dress is made of wool crepe and cotton and partly silk crepe satin and taffeta. 3) Pattern and sewing: The dress is combined with lining and fabrics, The patterns. or overbodice. The skirt is gored skirt. The skirt is gored skirt. The dress has various effect not only to decorate but also to conceal seams support hemlines nd affect the depth and length of front panel. 4) Datail: The braid black velvet ribbon frill and tucks in bodice skirt sleeves front panel collar cuffs are repeatedly used to dec-orate the dress. Finally the 1902-3 day dress has the characteristics of transitional stag in which the chatacteristics of the costume of 1900s and the remnants of the characteristics of the pre-vious costume style and shows the charac-teristics of day dress well in terms of the style color and fabric pattern and sewing and detail.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.399-409
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to compare how the number of panels, the amount of flare and the flare starting point affect the silhouette of the gored skirt. This study consisted of (1) creation of 3D body representations (2) comparison of silhouette between 3D virtual gored skirt and actual gored skirt by pilot experiment (3) pattern drafting of twenty-seven different gored skirts for 3D body representations (4) a computer simulation of twenty-seven different gored skirts for visualization and assessment (5) visual inspection of twenty-seven different 3D virtual gored skirts (6) comparison of ham shapes and measurements for the node and size analysis. A visual inspection of twenty-seven different 3D virtual gored skirts showed clear differences by the amount of flare and the flare starting point ; however, there was notably less difference in the width of ham among six-piece, eight-piece and ten-piece panels. This demonstrated that there was less influence on the number of panels than the amount of flare width of ham and extent of ham for the 3D virtual gored skirt.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.21-33
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• 1981

The purpose of this study was to develop a skirt pattern drafting method for korean women between the ages of $18\~24$ on the basis of their physical charcteristics which differs from those of other races in its size and figure. The study procedures and results were as follows; 1. Ten types of convantional skirt patterns were collected and compared to determine the essential measuring items for skirt construction, and to discover what problems are involved. 2. Fourteen items of KIST measurement data were analysed for correlation coefficients, to establish representative items and independent ones. 3. Front waist length and back waist length were additionally measured for supplementary data. 4. A new skirt drafting method was developed based on the results of the pattern comparison and the data analysis. 5. A sensory evaluation was applied to evaluate the new method comparing it with the most widely accepted conventional pattern. An original rating scale was developed for the evaluation and an expert panel consisting of five members judged each shell from 12 subjects by random selection. According to a statistical analysis of the result of the 17 items on the rating scale, 14 items showed significant differences (${\alpha}\leqq$0.01 or ${\alpha}\leqq$0.05) between the two, with the new pattern having better fit. The new pattern drafting method proved to be superior to the conventional one especially in the fitness at the back hip, dart length, side seam balance, and the ease for daily activities.

• Proceedings of the ESK Conference
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• 1993.10a
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• pp.205-219
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• 1993

The purpose of this study was to determine maximal width of bodice and skirt pattern of 50 college girls for more scientific patternmaking development in clothing construction. The body measurements data of this study was calculated by SAS, means analysis, regression analysis and T-test were used. The results are as follows. 1. The results of analyzing the whole 85 items of the entire body measurements of model are in table 2. 2. It was suggested the whole average cross section of measurement parts by rohrer index as the result of gathering the each section. 3. Representative items were suggested as fundamental parts in determining the maximal width of bodice and skirt basic pattern by rohrer index. 4. The entire abbreviated calculation formula of bodice and xkirt pattern was suggested.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.76-88
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• 2009

This study has the purposes to search the most visually effective and appropriate number of pleats and skirt length, when it's worn, with the changes in the number of pleats and skirt length that could be influential in analyzing the visual evaluation of pleats skirt and to analyze the changes when those factors are applied in real pattern. The stimuli were 18 samples: 6 variations of the number of pleats and 3 variations of the length of skirt. The data were obtained from 54 fashion design majors. The data were analyzed by Factor Analysis, Anova, Scheffe's Test and the MCA method. The results of the study were as follows: The visual image by the number of pleats and the length of skirt were composed of 4 factors : activity, attraction, neatness and commonness. In these factors, activity factor was estimated by the most important factor. The visual image according to the changes in the number of pleats and skirt length had significant differences, and the pleats skirts with 12 and 16 number of pleats and 38cm of skirt length were evaluated to be the most effective. The activity factor had interaction influence effect according to the number of pleats and the skirt length. The skirt length had more influence than the number of pleats in attraction and neatness factors, and the other way around for commonness factor.