• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.387-393
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• 2005

This study compares shamans' costumes of Korea with those of Siberia and Central Asia. It also investigates the meaning of shamanism and shamans,the relationship of Korean shamanism to shamanism, and the genealogy of Korean shamanism. For collecting and analyzing data of the research, literature reviews, field studies, and the investigation of historical relics are mostly used. The following are the major findings of the research: Through the comparison of shamans' costumes of Korea with those of Siberia and Central Asia, this research finds out some similarities and differences in the costumes. Both Korean shamans and Siberian and Central Asian shamans wore shaman's costumes and used utensils like bells or mirrors when they perform a religious service. On their costumes, they both used an element which stands for birds. However, they were different in terms of the materials or styles of the costumes, of the function of the costumes, and of the decorating with ornaments. The differences in the materials or styles of the costumes, different functions of the costumes, and using ornaments or not can be viewed as a general phenomenon, which is resulted from different environments. The soul's departing the body or the possession or a mixed method can be considered as mere variations due to regional or cultural differences. In conclusion, based on the comparison of the costumes of shamans of Korea with those of Siberia and Central Asia, the shamans of Korea and Siberia and Central Asia share the same origin. And the genealogy of Korean shamans can be said to be originated from the northern shamanism.

• Journal of the Korean housing association
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.111-121
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• 2014

The purpose of the study is to understand the unique characteristics of decoration style in traditional Javanese houses. Reviewing literature and visiting site were applied as the research method. Javanese House can be divided into three parts; roof, wall and floor. First, the roof of the traditional Javanese House is the most unique and important decorative element. The roofs are covered with roof-tiles and have clay carving ornaments on top. Usually there are no ceilings, just exposed to the oblique shape roof, which are made of wood to enable air ventilation. Joglo roof is the outstanding and representative roof type of Javanese houses. There is artistic and constructive roof structure named as tumpang sari in Joglo roof. The decoration on tumpang sari is the most colorful and symbolic ornaments. Secondly, the most unique element in the wall is the gebyok. Gebyok is made of wood and full of carved ornament, which has an artistic appearance, and also important function. The top part of doors are designed as perforated woodcarving, which give both aesthetic and ventilation purposes. Last, the stratified floor is begin with ground yard, then veranda that made from hardened clay, and main room constituted with a wood scaffold to provide air circulation and remove the humidity of the ground. The decorations of the column stand (umpak) are unique, where usually lotus flower is carved into black stone or lime stone. The outside of the buildings in Java Houses is not decorated by colors or symbols, whereas colors are only used in temples, pavilion or in royal housings. Instead they have carvings and decorations on important structural elements such as columns and beams inside. The ornaments and colors of decorations symbolize their god, ancestors and piece.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.204-220
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• 2007

The background of Korean Ethnical Costume was originated from those northern mounted nomadic groups, which was Scythe style Costume Culture. Through the antique records and paintings of tombs bequests hereby describe the forms of Scythian Cotume (1) Headgear : There was Conical Cap(or Pointed Cap), Feathered Cap, and Crown. (2) Clothes : Both Men and Women wore Jacket as upper garment with leftsided collars, narrow sleeves to the length of the hip line. As lower garment, they wore the tight Trousers and Kungo(:窮袴)that was attached with gusset. (3) Belts and Boots : On the upper garment bound the leather Belts that was hanged a hook that was shaped of animal form at the end. Scythian Buckles was divided into six groups, animal-shaped, animal's head shaped, animal fight-shaped, rectangle-shaped, rectangle openwork-shaped, genre scene shaped Buckle. To the Boots, they wore leather boots. (4) Ornaments : Ornaments divided into Dress Trimming(:Gold plaques), Earrings, Necklaces(;Torques), Bracelets, Rings. Scythian Gold Plaques were divided into several types according to the shape, animal style(curved beast shape, profile shape, head reversed over its back shape), round shape, quadrilateral form, star shape, flower shape, crescent shape, bundle shape, human appearance. Earrings consisted of a plain ring and pendant ring was a middle ornament hung from it to a pendants which hung was made of heart shaped leaves of the tree, beads-linked. Scythian Torques were divided into several types according to the shape, Torque with Terminal style, Spiral style, Layers style, Crescent-shaped pectoral style, Crown style. Scythian Bracelet were divided into 4 styles according to the shape, Bracelets with ends shaped like beasts style, Spiral style, Layers style, Crown with openwork style. Rings were rhomb-shaped and animal shaped styleRings (5) Animal motifs used in Scythian ornaments appears that in some cases the work was intended to be purely ornamental, while many times the motifs had symbolic meaning (such as the successful dominance of the aggressor over the victim portrayed in the attack scenes). Magical use of symbols may have been inten-ded to guarantee the power of the aggressor.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.13-22
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• 2007

As the world has been forming the global village and the cultures of each country are exchanged, the unique cultural specialty of each country high been merged with the generality in the world. The increasing interest on the oriental world and the globalization recently brings the fusion form of oriental and occidental cultures. In such a global trend, it is our challenge to find out the traditional beauty and the design factors of Korea for the new challenge and development of Korean fashion and to develop the most Korean and global design by interpreting them in a modem sense. It is the Era of the Three States when an of official hat among the personal ornaments of Korea was firstly described on the literature, including the literature of ancient China and Chronicles of Three States and Heritage of Three States of Korea. Those literatures clarified that the people in Goguryeo Baekje, Silla and Gaya decorated themselves with gold, silver and jade. Furthermore, since various kinds of ornaments have been excavated, they shown the development of metal craft in the Era of Three States. This study aim to exploit the design motives among the gold crown elements among the ornaments during the Era of Three States, interpret them in a modem expression, develop the textile design using the Adobe photoshop and suggest the application approaches by applying them to the clothing design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.31
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• pp.131-144
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• 1997

This thesis is mainly on the study of Gongbok and Sangbok in the system of official outfit of the Koryo dyn-asty which has not yet fully studied in the history of Koren dress and its ornaments. Even in this difficult circumstances the sys-tem of dress and its ornaments can be under-stood with the help of remaining Buddhi-stliterature. Thus the system of official outfit in the Koryo dynasty has been studied here with some documentary records such as Koryo-dokyung Koryosa-yeobokji (The His-tory of Dress And Its Ornaments in The Koryo Dynasty) and so on. As the Koryo dynasty de-veloped her international relationships continu-ously with her neighbouring nation which were geographically closely connected so the systems of official outfit in the Chinese dyn-asty of Sung had to be studied and compared with, In the Koryo dynasty the same four colour system of purple red, deep red and green had survived until the year of 1123 from the year of 960 not using the blue colour from the four colour system of purple Chinese red green and blue of the Sung dynasty. The four colour system of purple deep red green and black under the regin of the King Euijong was exactly the same as that of official outfit of the Sung dynasty in he year of 1078 the first year of Wonpung's regin and wearing Eodae is a sure sign of influence of the system of Sung dynasty. Even though Koryo was invaded by Yuan druing the period of the regin of the King Chungyul the four colour system was not changed of purple deep red. green and black along with the same Dae-sudanryung(long sleeve and round collar). In 1387 the thirteenth year of the King Woo of the Koryo dynasty Pumdae was used ofor different official ranks and the sys-tem of wearing Samo and Dayung was established for the official outfit of every government officers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.51-70
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is not to look at the history of traditional accessories or the characteristics of their shapes but to discern imitations ￡Tom authentic items by exploring imitations of traditional accessories-- many of which were made in the late 20th century -- from private museums and university museums in order to help scholars assess relics. Among many kinds of accessories in the Joseon dynasty, only norigae, one of the representative accessories, and women hair ornaments are selected for this study since many of the relics have been recovered to date. Given this, this study will consider firstly the general history of norigae and women's hair ornaments, and secondly, prove several examples as relics from the late 20th century while they are marked as relics from the Joseon dynasty by comparing authentic items. Thirdly, among the imitations of the late 20th century, this study will find those so-called "original" imitations whose production origins are unidentified Fourthly, this study will explore the imitations, which were influenced by the influx of items and materials from China. It is important to discern low-quality relics as well as to correct the production time. Some producers exercised their creativity and made relics non-native to Korea. These relics shouldn't be presented at international exhibitions. Restored relics should be noted so and their quality should be equal to the authentic items. It is suggested that relics without the identity and quality of native Korean relics not baffle cultural interchanges and enhance national glory.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.22
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• pp.1-14
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• 2019

The excavation of the south mound of Hwangnamdaechong Tomb in Gyeongju has yielded diverse types of shell artifacts. Among the them, this paper investigated fragments of shell ornaments with gilt-bronze frames, the use of which has not been identified. It was revealed that the artifacts are in fact nautilus cups, which had never been found previously in excavations in Korea. A nautilus is a species marine mollusk known to be the closest to prehistoric ammonites. It has brown stripes on the surface of the shell and septa inside, and a siphuncle penetrating to the center of the septa. It is known that nautilus cups were made and used in China, but only three examples have thus far been identified. These surviving cups have metal ornaments and are dated to the Western and Eastern Jin periods of China. No nautilus cups have been found in Japan, and the shell ornaments investigated in this study were determined to be the first nautilus cups ever found in Korea. Nautilus cups are mentioned in ancient documents and literature, including in poems by the Tang Dynasty poet Li Bai and in Joseon-period documents. This paper presents the biological characteristics of nautili, cases of excavation of nautilus cups outside Korea, and findings from the basic research of the nautilus cup from Hwangnamdaechong Tomb.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.57-74
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• 2015

The history of foot-binding was once regarded as a unique practice accentuating the beauty of a woman and the culture of the costume, to be found nowhere except in China. This thesis makes it an aim to understand the culture of costume in China by analyzing the beauty of foot-binding, and its meanings associated with the historical background of the costume. The method of investigation was by both previous literature on the topic and case analysis. The shoes were analyzed by colors, patterns and decorations; selecting 70 pieces easily accessible in the Tianjin Huaxia Shoes Culture Museum. In terms of form, the general type was of the most frequent, followed by one with an elevated toe, mixed type, and one of the downward toe, sequentially. The color of foot-binding shoes were mostly vivid chromatic colors, while the achromatic ones like black and grey constituting significant portions. In view of the patterns, plants patterns were the most frequent, followed by the mixed patterns of mostly flowers with butterflies, bats, and birds desiring the prosperity of descendants. In view of the ornaments, embroidery was the most frequent, while the mixed shoes included tassels, sequins, applique, and shoes without ornaments were of distributions. The forms, colors, patterns and ornaments clearly associated with the wishes of artistic beauty, sexuality, and rise in women's social status may be in the hope of leading others to understand the costume culture embedded in the Chinese by providing important clues about them.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.9 s.109
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• pp.127-142
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• 2006

In this study, I have analyzed Indian traditional clothing in fashion design of 21st century by comparing 1,286 fashion items designed by Indian designers and 722 Western fashion items, which were presented from 2000 S/S to 2005 F/W Formal analysis were made for change in how to wear clothes, and change in items and ornaments. Change of traditional clothing was found in two ways; Western elements added to Indian tradition and Indian traditional image adopted in Western clothing. First, Indian traditional elements added to Western clothing in the formal aspect was found in 83% of Western collections and 27.2% of the Indian designers' collections. In Indian designers' collections, traditional clothing form takes 72.8%, which shows the regional characteristics of India where the traditional clothing is still adhered to in daily life especially by women. Second, from the fashion design of the Indian designers, we can find modernization of sari, change of traditional items into more active and modern way by adding Western clothing; change of form, color and material of traditional items in various ways; and decorative aspects highlighted by adding Indian traditional color, pattern or decoration into Western clothing. In most cases, Western collections are seasoned with Indian traditional image, rather than utilizing the form of Indian clothing. Although adopting the farm of Indian traditional clothing, it can be considered as a translation from the viewpoint of the West. Third, Indian look is expressed in various ways by reproducing Indian traditional ornaments such as earings, bracelets and henna, or by adopting Indian traditional fabric design and decoration in mufflers, bags and etc.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.16-26
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• 2006

There have been in the history of western costume a few studies on men's headgear that cannot be the second to the women's headdress in terms of the gorgeousness and variety whereas the studies on women's hair styles and head dresses have frequently been carried out. Such varieties of the headgear in terms of forms and ornaments have still been found with various types. Thus, the study on the change in designs and details of headgear and the recreation of them may contribute to the utilization of the fashion in current vogue and the guidance of the creation for the new design. The aim of this study is to find such changes in the designs and the methods for the production of bonnets which have played important roles to emphasize external characteristics of costumes. As a result, this study may provide key materials for the development of new designs. As with the previous studies on the women's headdress and men's hat, the methodology of this study is to recreate bonnets based on the literature review and the portrait analysis. this study will cover the eras from the late fifteenth century to the mid sixteenth century when bonnets began to be produced. First, the characteristics of hair styles and bonnets are to be reviewed for the selection of bonnets to be recreated. Next step is to make a literature review on the form, materials, colors and ornaments used for bonnets. Finally, the patterns of bonnets is to be illustrated for the reproduction of selected bonnets. Materials to be used in this study for such a reproduction are velvets, silks and wools as presented in the literatures and ornaments to be used are similar to those captured in photos.