• 복식
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• 제30권
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• pp.153-166
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• 1996

The purpose of this paper is to examine the Ethnic Fashion which is influenced by the Anti-Fashion in 1960s. Anti-Fashion as Hippie style had an effect on high fashion in the 60s-70s and which was restored in the early 90s are ethnic and folk-lore style. The influence that the Anti-Fashion has had on the Ethnic Fashion is summarized as follows. At the Ethnic Fashion in 60s-70s: First Europian romantic style that is velvet doublet breecheese race cuffs ruffle flounce race jabbot embrioderd blouse frilled blouse Victorian mode and Pre-Raphaello style. Second handicraft ornaments style & peasant style what are embroidery weaving variaty ornaments tie-dye patch work smocking beads & bell paisely print peasant blouse dundle skirt long skirt to clinging layered look floral print dress and shepherd-ness style. Third folklore style that is Oriental mao-suit harem pants & Indian pants caftan monk robe Afgan vest burnoos dhoti pants Hindu robe Red Indian fringe head band feather ornaments Red indian embroidery & weaving body painting gaucho poncho and serapi. At the Ethnic Fashion in 90s.: First Europian classical romantic style that is Victorian style Pre-Raphaello style ruffle & race decorations and velvet materials. Second peasant look& handicraft orna-ments what are floral print long skirt to cling-ing uneven stitches top stitchings patch work embroidery crochet and tie-dye. Third folklore style that is Red Indian style South East mode is sarong skirt & Nheru jacket Tibet & Mongolian style South America style and gypso style.

• 복식
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• 제41권
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• pp.23-47
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• 1998

Ornaments is a province of the fashion. It usually express noble metals and jewel's adorn-ment as the symbol of status and riches for a long time. The ornament design of Jewels drawing project and a product by computer are increased development and as exertion as a realization of automation. Through the use of CAD software(Auto CAD R 13 & Jewel CAD) \circled1 A design development of the jewels in industrial society \circled2 A metals art & design on the dress and it's ornaments - Study about application of principle(liberal curve, arrangement of repeated form, gradual unity, rhythmical harmony) Although Auto CAD don't various expression of Jewels than a Jewel CAD, formative.scientific.funtional development of geometrical form is free. That is (to say), geometrical form is given much weigh in the general CAD, but Jewel CAD made concentrate software on the jewels design for the expression of liberal form. The CAD/CAM software for jewellery program is composed of main menu, icons, hotkeys. Changing form is derived from a definite point, curve elements of a drawing. \circled1 3-Dimensional \circled2 Easy and flexible \circled3 Bulit-in and self created library \circled4 From simple wire frame to full color images. As a CAD can practice all the creation activity effectively, from Design & Drafting Software to Rendering generally can present precise results. A point of view of the connection the scientist and art, this practicableness of CAD have a lot of possiblity of development. That will do much for the related fields of industry. Consequently, subjective intension of a creator & humanity with value plays role in practical application of the design.

• 복식
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• 제56권4호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2006

This paper is a perspectiveon the reformative costume expressed by Gustav Klimt who led the Secession Movement as a great master in Vienna. Klimt actively expressed a new costume style in his paintings, which influenced heavily on the modern costume design. This paper may contribute to reestablish the constructive direction for the 21st century fashion design based on Klimt's pursuing holistic art concept. The reformative costume in Klimt's paintings has two characteristics; ornamentism, eroticism, and reformativeness. Ornamentism is expressed with fantastic colors, various motives, exotic features, simple style clothes, and so on. Klimt used independent ornaments to express carnal desires metaphorically, which set ornaments free to lead spectators to the dreamy or elusive state and even have spectators indulged in ecstasy. As the Secession Movement focused on reforming all areas of life artistically, the costumes of Klimt's paintings symbolically express the reformativeness; he portrayed the woman in the early 20th century and sought to reform its contemporary value as a visual sensuality. Klimt tried to disrupt from the former era by over-emphasizing eroticism. The erotic expression with the colors and the style of ornaments substitute naturally for suggestive eroticism of the feminine body. With has creativity, Klimt has spectators extract the various senses from the female image in his paintings. Klimt's creative spirit on the holistic art concept could be helpful to develop a unique design as a catalyst foreseeing over the present.

• 복식
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• 제53권3호
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• pp.121-135
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• 2003

This paper is about the dress styles during the 16th century of the Chosun dynasty, just before the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, through painting-Kiyeonghoido. In the Chosun period, dress styles played an important role in representing the differences in social status. The most remarkable signs of social standing are the hair ornaments. Officials in ranks, noksas, and seoris are wearing a same, a yugakpyeongjeongeon and a mugakpyeongjeongeon respectively. The head ornament for musicians in high ranks is a samo, and, for those in low ranks a hood or a heuklip. Accordingly, head ornaments were important articles among apparels, and especially ripja was an article that sensitively reflected the contemporary fashion. Such a trend also influenced the common people's styles of dress. Thus, the style of the heuklip worn by the chamberlain in Kiyeonghoido resembled of yangban's. Actual official uniforms also diverged from the specifications for them. Sangboks were red for both dangsanggwans and danghagwans, but their ranks were marked by the material of their dress rather than by the breast plates. Dress styles change over time as the society members influence and are influenced by each other. Therefore, owing to the social characteristics of a hierarchical society, dress styles are distinctive according to the wearers' social standings and roles, and various dress styles emerge that deviate from regulations. The significance of the present paper is to review the diversity of the dress styles during the 16th century of the Chosun dynasty.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.115-123
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• 2001

The dress and ornaments in the Taijiang were fashionable, which were densely populated with Miao nationality. Women's traditional festive dress in Taijiang included an embroidered blouse and a pleated skirt. The garments are decorated with plenty of ornamental designs. The colours of festive dress were as rich and gorgeous as those of fashinable desses. Embroidery was very popular in Taijiang and its principal feature is embroidery with loose, coloured floss silk. The image of patterns changed ingeniously and colourfully but do harmony. In the using of colour, one kind of the festive dress was in the main red, which means a bright dress. The colour of another kind of festive dress was blue, which means a dark dress. There were many kinds of silver ornaments for women. Taijiang was most outstanding in this respect. The great variety of silver ornaments was a unique feature of women's dress in Taijiang.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.405-416
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• 2006

We, in this thesis, examined the similarities and differences of bat patterns in China and Korea, along with a consideration of how two peoples understood bats and how their understanding of bats developed and also influenced the bat patterns. As for research period, the Ming(明) dynasty and the Qing(淸) dynasty in China and the Chosun dynasty in Korea were considered. The subjects of this study included clothes, personal ornaments, and embroidery. This research was done by comparing and analyzing the similarities and differences of two countries' bat patterns. The results of comparing and analyzing Chinese and Korean bat patterns were as follows: In terms of similarity, people of two countries understood bat patterns as the symbol of happiness. Therefore, they were used in clothes, personal ornaments, and daily necessities. In terms of difference, bat patterns of two countries had different shapes. In China, colorful and realistic single bat patterns were shown as intensive composition, whereas in Korea plain and simple bat patterns were used. These differences resulted from different way of understanding of bat patterns. It can be concluded that the bat patterns can be a great cultural commodity with high commercial values, if the traditional pattern is used as a unique element of the Oriental designs and altered and developed to attract consumers' attention.

• 디자인학연구
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• 16호
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• pp.149-158
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• 1996

장신구 디자인은 현대인의 생활과 문화, 그리고 관련산업 전반에 걸쳐 큰 영향을 미치고 있으나 현재 우리 나라 대학의 공예디자인 교육에서는 금속 공예의 일부분으로 인식되어 독창성 있는 교육 프로그램을 실시하지 못하고 있다. 대부분의 미술 대학에서 순수 예술성을 추구하는 일품 공예 위주의 장신구 교육을 시행함으로써 장신구 디자인 교육은 산업 생산과 경영 측면을 이해 할 수 없는 비현실적이라는 비판을 받고 있는 것이다. 본 연구에서는 획일적인 대학 장신구 디자인 교육의 문제점 및 개선 방향을 연구하여 장·단기적인 계획안을 제시하였으며, 이를, 토대로 각 대학별 특성을 살린 다양한 장신구 관련 교과과정을 개발, 시행한다면 교육 개방에 대비한 대학 경쟁력 강화와 대학의 산업 기여도 증진 및 관련 전공자들의 사회 활동의 폭을 넓히는 계기가 되리라는 것을 확인하였다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제47권2호
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• pp.392-408
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• 2023

This study concerns the flower-shaped silver crown ornament and inverted triangle-shaped crown ornament of Baekje, which were worn frequently during the Sabi period. The purpose of this study is to present a new estimated shape of the crown and ornaments. Individual excavation cases and archaeological data were analyzed. The flower-shaped silver crown ornament appears as a thin silver plate with buds on the center and side branches and is symmetrically bent from the center to form a ∧ shape. The inverted triangle-shaped crown ornament resembles two right-angle triangles that are back-to-back. The crown to which the two ornaments were added appears to be a triangular crown that was made by covering birch bark of with fabric. Both ornaments were believed to have been located on the front of crown, but that is incorrect. The flower-shaped silver crown ornament was inserted on the front of the crown, and the inverted triangle-shaped crown ornament was fixed with a tip at the top of the crown and then obliquely on the crown's side. The inferred design was confirmed with real reproductions. This study is significant in that it identifies the crown of Baekje during the Sabi period.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.71-75
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• 1998

The Miaos who is the minority people mainly living in the southwestern part of China, expressed their indicator and solidarity through the costume in order to maintain their racial character while experiencing numerous adversities over thousands of years, where the costume has served as a source of cohesion as well as a primitive religious thought, and also showed their faith, desire, longing and aspiration. This study examined the Miao's traditional costume by classifying it into the following; hair style, headdress, upper and lower garments, and other costume. And the silver ornaments used for attire and their symbolic meaning were examined. The result of the study is summarized as follows. 1. The reason that types of the costume has been diversified is because there was promise of ancestors who intended to differently express the type of a kind as symbol of the racial branch that is the Miao's special type of society. Thus, the costume type could tell where a tribe live. Another reason is because only marriage between families with different surname but the same type of costume was accepted. 2. As women made and wore the costume themselves, it also served as a means of being proud of their skill or wealth, they tried to make it more beautiful and it was also used as a token of marriage or love between relatively enlightened men and women. 3. The design used on the costume was expressed as a symbolic meaning of indicator to strengthen the racial solidarity because it connoted worship to ancestors who had experienced lots of adversities. 4. The hair style was expressed in various styles by using Kache such as Chukye, Byunbal and Kokye. It is likely that ornaments used on the head of women in the form of cow's horn or silver crown were used as one of the methods to stress the valuableness of the cattle that were essential to agricultural life. In addition, various styles of turbans were used to indicate the respective regions. 5. Cock's feather ornaments or silver ornaments in the form of pheasant's feather on the edge of women's skirts, peasant's feathers that men wore on their head, or Baekjoui and men wore resulted from the Miaos' thought of adoration for birds, which implied a primitive religious meaning. 6. As the region where the Miaos live yields much silver, the silver ornaments were mostly used to be proud of wealth, which symbolized light and pureness.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제35권2호
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• pp.169-176
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• 2019

국립민속박물관에서 소장하고 있는 19세기 말~20세기 여성용 쓰개에 사용된 장식 19점에 대하여 SEM-EDS로 조성을 분석하였다. 쓰개 장식 16점은 융제 성분인 $Na_2O$와 PbO를 함유하고 있어 한국의 고대부터 출토되거나 전승되어온 납유리와 조성이 다른 유형의 납유리였다. 쓰개 장식 2점은 $Na_2O$와 $K_2O$가 3% 혹은 5% 이상 함유한 알칼리혼합유리, 1점은 CaO를 5% 이상 함유한 포타쉬유리 III형으로 분류되었다. 이 중 납유리는 일제강점기 조선에 수입된 일본의 공예용 납유리와 조성이 유사하여, 19세기 말~20세기 여성용 쓰개 중 납유리를 사용한 장식은 원료를 일본에서 수입하였거나 조선 내 일본인 기술로 생산한 공예용 납유리로 제작된 것으로 추정된다. 이를 통해 근현대에 들어서 전통적으로 사용되어온 쓰개 장식의 사용된 옥이나 호박과 같은 보석이 일본에서 수입된 공예용 납유리로 대체되어 새롭게 사용되었음을 보여주고 있다.