• 복식
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• 제59권3호
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• pp.82-95
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• 2009

The kind and the use of the fabrics for crown manufacture in the Baekje period has been studied by characterizing the imprinted fabrics on the crowns and the diadem ornaments from the old tomb. The contact region with the skin inside of the crown and the region between the bark of white birch and the gilt bronze openwork plates contained fabrics. The fabrics used in the gilt-bronze crown were all plain weave silk except that of Yongwonri tomb where loosely woven thin tabby was used. There have been 4-types of iron framed diadem of the Baekje, which comprise the inverted triangle-shaped diadem only with iron frame, the diadem with gold plate ornament in the iron frame, the diadem decorated with mica plate and gold plate, and the diadem with silver ornament in the iron frame. The fabrics used in the triangle shaped iron frame diadem include plain weave silk, irregular plain woven silk, thin tabby, complex silk gauze, twill weave on plain ground, and warp-faced compound weave. The iron frames were wrapped with the fabrics from one layer up to three layers, and the iron diadem was covered with one later of loosely woven textile such as irregular plain woven silk, thin tabby, and complex silk gauze. But in case of decorating the iron diadem with gold Plate ornaments, multiple layers of fabric were used to sustain the weight of the ornaments. The fabrics in the iron diadem frame were sewed with running stitch, overedge stitch or hemming stitch, diagonal hemming stitch, half back stitch), and overcast stitch.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제9권7호
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• pp.171-183
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• 2009

고대의 정신세계는 인류의 사상의 근원이 되는 소중한 가치를 가지고 있다. 본 연구는 과학의 발달로 점차 소멸되어가는 인류의 근원적 정신세계를 고대 신화적 요소에서의 상징적 표현으로 나타나는 고대이집트 신들의 장신구로부터 연구하여, 신들의 장신구를 통해 반영되어진 고대인들의 정신세계의 독특한 인간관을 재조명하고자 한다. 이집트에서 장신구는 장식적 역할도 분명하지만, 그 근본적인 목적은 부적 즉, 신체의 취약한 부분에 지님으로써 신비적이고 적대적 힘으로부터 보호받기 위한 주술적 목적으로 사용되었다. 이러한 단면에서 시사하는 것처럼 인류는 인간 스스로 해결 할 수 없는 초월적인 문제를 초자연의 힘을 빌려 해결하려 하였고, 그 안에서 삶을 영위해가기를 추구하였다. 때문에 본 연구는 인류의 문명을 대표하고 있는 이집트 장신구의 형성 과정을 이집트 문화적 배경과 신화를 통해, 신들의 장신구에 내포되어 있는 정신적 의미와, 신들의 장신구의 역할이 무엇이었는지 알아보고, 또한 이집트인들이 신들의 장선 구를 통해 무엇을 염원하였는지 고찰하였다. 그 결과 이집트 신들의 장신구들은 첫째로 자연을 묘사하고 있었고 둘째는 선분의 상정, 성별의 구분과 종교의식의 의미를 지니고 있었으며 셋째로는 사후세계를 믿었음을 보여주었고 마지막으로 부활을 상징하고 있었다.

• 복식
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• 제36권
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• pp.121-137
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• 1998

This paper is a study of clothing recorded in$\boxDr$Shin Ching$\boxUl$.$\boxDr$Shin Ching$\boxUl$is the oldest poetry, which written in early west-Zhou to mid Spring and Autumn Period. In this book, clothing is classified with men's women's and fabrics. But only the men's costume is included in this paper, and others will be studied later. As a result, men's clothing includes Qui, Mian Fu, Bian Fu, Yi Shang, Po, Ze, the armour, the belt ornaments, the hair ornaments and the hair styles, the shoes. 1. Qui is depicted at 11 poetries. It's materials are sheep, wolf, bear etc. The materials and color are differentiated according to the class. 2. Mian Fu is depicted at 20 poetries. There are depictions about the embroidered black garment and a red skirt, and also about inner blouse, Chong er, Chi xi etc. 3. Bian Fu is depicted at 5 poetries and there are three types. 4. Yi Shang is depicted at 9 poetries and classified with two types. One is twp piece style, and the other is one pieced style. 5. Po and Ze is depicted at 1 poetry. Po is sa long coat with lining and Ze is a under-wear. The armour and the helmet are depicted at 2 poetries. 6. The belt ornaments are classified with two styles. One is decorational and the other is practical. At 7 poetries they are depicted. 7. The hair ornaments includes a hat and a hair style. Also, the shoes are depicted and there are two styles. Such a results can clarify the men's costumes of Zhou and may be a raw datas about the costumes of old China.

• 복식
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• 제58권5호
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• pp.13-34
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• 2008

In Headgear and Ornaments for Diadem in the Period of the Three States there was Conical Cap(or Pointed Cap), Feathered Cap(Trim), and Crown[Tree-typed Diadem and Tree and Antler-typed Diadem] was excavated from the tombs. Feathered Trim is 5 types, Feathered Trim I-A, Feathered Trim I-B, Feathered Trim II-A, Feathered Trim II-B, Feathered Trim II-C in according to upper part of central insert plate style. Feathered Trim I-A, I-B, II-B type was general style that was found in most of the old tombs in ancient Silla, Gaya. Feathered Trim II-A type was excavated from the only Silla tombs and II-C type was excavated from Gaya tombs. The Ornaments for Diadem in Baekje was excavated from the tombs is adorned with a arranged leaf-stems on either sides and the flower-shaped. They were distinguished with the original mode of Goguryeo and ancient Silla at the time. Tree-typed Diadem is five part in according to the Mountain(;山)-typed piled up. Only one Mountain(;山)-typed one in three stand-up ornament(I-1 type), and three step one in three stand-up one(I-2 type), modification one (I-3 type), three step one of four and five stand-up ones(I-4 type), and four step one of four and five stand-up ones (I-5 type). Tree and Antler-typed Diadem is three part in according to the step of Mountain(; 山)-typed and cross-shaped of the upper part. Three one of three step one of Mountain(;山)-typed and two Antler- typed (II-1 type), cross-shaped one(II-2 type), four step one(II-3 type).

• 복식문화연구
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• 제28권3호
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• pp.356-375
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to understand the characteristics and cultural values of the headdress among Chinese minorities with diverse ethnic cultures, and to provide various data on the design of clothing accessories. Theoretical considerations about ethnic minorities were addressed through literature and prior research, with data being collected using literature and websites. The results are as follows. First, the most common type of headdress is the horizontal type, which includes the head style, headband, and head scarf. The second most common is the cylinder type, which is a headdress with variations in the shape of a round hat, and has is evident among various minorities. Third, the pagoda type is decorated with ornaments mounted on top of a round shape. Fourth, the square crown type is a piece of wood as a material for a form of the material and for a variety of jewelry and the production of up to meet the women's head of the jewelry. Fifth, head belt-type ornaments consist of a headband and fancy bead ornaments from the bottom of the head. Mongol women usually wear an exaggerated form of this type. Sixth, the head cover type is a head decoration influenced by the dress code of Muslim women. Seventh is the disc type of crown shape worn by the Dai. Next, the ogival type is a cone-shaped headdress hat most commonly seen as head ornament hat among the Dai. Lastly, the sailboat type is the most exaggerated form of hair ornaments found among ethnic minorities.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권5호
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• pp.691-703
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• 2013

The costume culture of ladies in late Goryeo is an important and rare source for cultural fashion souvenir design. This study investigates the historical costume design sources of late Goryeo to suggest high quality traditional and practical ornament souvenir designs for female dolls as well as examples of coordination with doll costumes. The costume culture of late Goryeo contained golden Buddhism and a revival of $12^{th}$ century Goryeo costume characteristic after the period of Mongolian influences from the Yuan. The main sources for doll ornament designs are $14^{th}$ century Buddhist paintings, a few ornament relics of Goryeo, ancient literature, and portraits of ladies in the $14^{th}$ century that originated from five doll's traditional ornaments (lotus hairpin, cloud-shaped hairpin, Buddhist flower hair ornament, vase-shaped Binyeo, and bell of animalhuman face) and three wig designs (wigs from Buddhist paintings and portraits, and hairpiece) with bleached gilding silver, silk, various gemstones and synthetic hair. These doll ornament and wig designs imply the symbol of Buddhism, exorcism, and costume culture of $14^{th}$ century Goryeo ladies that can be matched with two doll gowns, half-sleeved jacket, skirt, two Jogoris, apron, under trousers as formal, semi-formal, and town-wear according to the T.P.O of late Goryeo; in addition, five ornaments can be used as owner's ornaments. The partial changing colors and materials due to the characteristics of doll ornament goods as well as better communication between researcher and constructor remain to be improved.

• 디지털융복합연구
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• 제18권8호
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• pp.459-467
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• 2020

현대 장신구를 제작하는 작가의 입장에서 초연결시대속 현대장신구의 미래를 보고자 했다. 특히 그중 하나인 정보통신 기술, 그중에서도 nfc Tag을 응용한 기술융합의 실제적 방안을 찾고자 한다. 그 실제적인 접근을 위해 현재 nfc Tag기술이 활용된 상업적반지제품들의 실예를 살펴본 후 이후 공방에서 제작되는 현대장신구에도 적용가능한 실제적 방법을 찾고자 했다. 그 결과 비교적 융합이 자유롭지만 기술적 활용도가 제한되는 매몰법과 기술적 활용도는 높지만 디자인 기획 단계부터 융합을 고려해야하는 조립법의 현실적 대안을 도출하였으며 특히 그중 실제적용에 차이가 있을 수 있는 매몰법을 개념만이 아니라 샘플제작을 통해 기술적용에 있어 필요한 요소와 주의점등을 기술하였다.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.65-73
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• 1999

이태리는 이미 오래 전부터 귀금속에 대한 관심이 높아서 귀금속 장신구가 활성화되어 있었으며 오랜 역사와 문화를 바탕으로 한 그들의 뛰어난 예술적 감각과 귀금속 세공기술 등의 전통이 끊이지 않고 계승되어 현재의 첨단 과학기술과 조화를 이루어 더욱 발전을 하고 있다. 전 세계 귀금속 장신구의 5개 중 1개는 이태리 제품이 차지하고 있을 정도로 이태리는 어느 나라보다도 많은 금, 은, 보석장신구 등을 생산하며 연간 70억 달러 이상의 매출을 올리고 있다. 이러한 성장의 이면에는 여러 가지 요인들이 복합적으로 작용한 결과로, 단절되지 않고 대대로 내져오는 그들의 장인정신을 바탕으로 한 예술적인 수공예 위주의 일품적인 장신구와 세련되고 감각적인 디자인이 조화를 이룬 대량 생산적인 장신구를 함께 병행 발전시킨 결과이다. 최근에 들어서, 이태리 귀금속 회사들은 향상된 경영기법과 마케팅에 대한 국제적인 접근방법 등을 적극적으로 도입하고 있으며 디자이너들과 상호 밀접한 관계를 이루면서 새로운 기술 및 디자인 개발에 노력하고 있다.

• 복식
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• 제62권5호
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• pp.96-107
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• 2012

In ancient times, immigrants from Baekje wore various kinds of costumes that provided technological and aesthetic guidance for the Japanese costume, which has been modified and changed in Japan. The clothing and ornaments were strongly influenced directly by costumes of the Baekje period; therefore, many of the Japanese costumes at that time were crafted in the Baekje style. Through the antique records, paintings of tombs and bequests, we were able to find similarities between Baekje and Japan costumes in these categories: clothes, headgear, belt hooks and belt plaques, bronze shoes, and ornaments. (1) Clothes : They wore high-shaped hat and jacket and trousers(;袴) tied the bottom. (2) Headgear : There was a gilt bronze Conical Cap attached to the long tube with terminals in the shape of a hemisphere. (3) Belt hooks and belt plaques: There were horse-shaped belt hooks in mane styles and a checkered pattern on the lower part of the haunch and a belt Plaque shaped like the face of an animal. (4) Gilt bronze shoes: They were made with the style that had two side plates fixed in the instep side and heel-side. (5) Ornaments : They were made with flower-shaped plaques and spiral-shaped decorations. One earring was made with a three-winged pendent that were connected in a chain style and the others were in unique forms that were made by connecting narrow rings and a heart-shaped pendent.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제7권6호
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• pp.170-181
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to suggest the possibility of futurism as original design pursuing newness in approaching 21C by studying how futurism having a great effect on fashion as innovatory ideology in early 20C did became paradigm in 20C fashion and the common peculiarity of the dress and its ornaments in this time before 21C. The Space Age Fashion and Techno-Cyber Fashion are representative futurism fashion of 20C. The common inner inclination in both Space Age Fashion and Techno-Cyber fashion are ; First, a future-oriented character. Second, a surrealism character, Third, an anti-cultural character. The greatest peculiarity in the common outer shape in both Space Age Fashion and Techno-Cyber Fashion is material. First, a innovatory choice. Second, an active motion. Third, a diverse effects. Future dress and its ornaments of 21C may be changed greatly by the development of technique, and this fact supports the forecast that the change of paradigm resulted from the development of science may have an effect on future dress and its ornaments as well as modern one. The paradigm change of futurism fashion would be continued, and its influence would work as main source shaping the form of design in 21C.