• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.95-112
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• 2005

Hair styles, dresses and their ornaments are basic measures that show the trend of the times, the people and their life in both Eastern and Western societies. The history of a country could start or be extinguished at any time, but life goes on. Koguryo was founded around Anno Domini and fell at 668 A. D. What was Koguryo people like? How was their hair style and costume? This study aims to respond those questions. The Koguryo ancient mural paintings can be broadly divided into the Jip-An region and the Pyon-Yang region. Among the paintings found, that in the An-Ak 3rd ancient tomb at the Pyon-Yang region is the biggest and the most splendid. It is a figure genre painting, which contains a kitchen, a rice mill, a stable, a barn, a garage, etc. Those places illustrate the way of life at the time. The painting also comprises a man with a crown, who is seen as the king and owner of this tomb. The woman with a vertically designed hair style is perceived as the queen. A highly guarded and decorated royal parade is also presented in detail. The hair styles and costume evidence in the An-Ak 3rd ancient tomb are not seen in the paintings of the Jip-An region. This study inquires into the differences between the Pyon-Yang and lip-An regions through the history and the culture of those areas. Nevertheless, it could prove tentative to confirm the owner of the An-Ak 3rd ancient tomb with the only evidence of the words found in the wall of the tomb. It is the author's intention to study and analyse further.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.61-73
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to create unique formative beauty with free expressive method and to suggest accessory design with individuality through this, by using hand-knitting technique in design of necklace and bangle, which belong to personal ornament among fashion accessories. It analyzed on theoretical background of knit technique and accessory through documentary research, examined the accessory design tendency and the research tendency through collection materials, and then suggested 9 works in accessory ornament design of using hand-knitting technique, based on this. The results are as follows. First, even in overseas collection, accessories in diverse materials and shapes were being show cased. Volume in necklace or bangle was indicated to be big. There were many cases of covering several items together. Second, the hand-knitting technique in originative accessory design could be confirmed to be possibly used broadly in the range of pattern and shape available for making by using yarn in diverse thicknesses with proper technique, and by transforming basic tissue according to knitting technique. Third, through the results of making ornaments in 7 necklaces and 2 bangles, the hand-knitting technique was confirmed to possibly expanding the application range of knitting technique in the accessory field, and has significance in having suggested individual accessory.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.43-59
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• 2010

In the first half of 20th century, there was an abrupt change in society and social values. Therefore, a demand for functional women's sportswear started to increase. This paper has attempted to investigate the impact of functionalism on women's sportswear in the first half of the 20th century. The following results were obtained: First, anti-tradition was observed. There was a tendency to be separated from the past and against tradition. It was tried to pursue freedom, getting away from corset and petticoat. Second, structural functions were targeted. In other words, precise and efficient shapes and simple silhouette and line were emphasized. Third, fitness of purpose was found. More liberal and comfortable design has been targeted. That's why a variety of functional pants have been designed instead of skirts. Fourth, utility and practicality were found. Elastic fabrics such as wool and jersey and sweater have commonly used in sportswear. A variety of new fabrics have been used and details such as flare, slit and pleats have been designed. Lastly, non-ornamentality was found. The beauty of simple shape was pursued by omitting details or eliminating unnecessary ornaments. Monochrome and dark color were preferred and a use of accessories has declined. The result of this paper could be used in establishing a theoretical framework on the impact on social change, values and art and helpful In modern women's sportswear design and marketing which have become more important.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.1-16
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• 2003

Nowadays, retro to the past fashion is appeared just as often as new challenge and trial. The style of Renaissance Era is the most often revival theme for contemporary fashion. So, this study was focused on 16C of Renaissance costume. It is investigated the characteristics of Renaissance costume through referring the literature to be able to restore the past costume as through as possible with the object of building database for developing new design. This study is done in two different ways at the same time, direct study to restore and indirect study to refer. Direct one is of the past costume as thoroughas possible based on referring to the originals. The other is referring the costume historical literature The costumes to restore is chosen among 16C famous pictures on the basis of how much they can show the typical chracteristics of 16C costume. Materials including textiles and ornaments which are necessarily to restore were shopped in Dongdeamoon Market. Some materials had a problem to get exactly the same one in Seoul on 21C. After visiting imes, the materials is chosen as similar as originals. Three sets of costume were restored on the basis of referring "Pattern of Fashion" written by Janet Arnold. The costumes were restored by reinforcing bodice based on the size of waist and in every three works. The way of sewing is based on hand sewing for details and machin-sewing for seam. Quilting intl lining is uwed giving the fabric stiffness to maintain the form from the heavy padding. Also the part of piles on margins is used darts instead of gather, because of reducing bulkiness of seam. General closing methods are hook and eyes, and lacing with points.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.23
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• pp.91-108
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• 2020

This study conducted non-destructive analyses of the material features of seven gilt-bronze crowns of Baekje Kingdom that were excavated in the Cheonan, Gongju, Seosan, Iksan, Naju, and Hapcheon areas. A typical Baekje gilt-bronze crown has a conical inner crown and an outer crown embellished with vertical ornaments on the front and the back, a tube topped with a hemispherical ornament, and other ornamentation. Diverse designs (e.g., dragon, bonghwang, flowers, and plants) were applied using a range of techniques, including repoussé, chasing, openwork, and engraving. Formal features differ among the crowns according to their period of production and site of excavation. The substrate metal of the crowns is either pure copper or mixed copper with a small amount of lead. The crowns were amalgam-plated on the surface with pure gold or gold with a small amount of silver. The crown from Okjeon Tomb No. 23 in Hapcheon in the ancient Gaya region has a high silver content, which appears to be a regional feature. In addition, this crown from Okjeon Tomb No. 23, which can be categorized as Baekje-style gilt-bronze crown, seems to be plated at most three times, while the gilt-bronze crowns found within Baekje Kingdom territory were plated once or twice.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.275-286
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to investigate the characteristics of costume and its ornaments which are appeared in the traditional wedding ceremonial customs and the wedding costumes of Eastern Slav, that is consisted of Russian, Belarusian and Ukrainian from the 19 to the early of 20C. In this study, many different procedures of wedding ceremony with a various kind of wedding costumes are shown. A wedding custom of Eastern Slav had been developed by a intermixed style of the Christianism and a paganism. The wedding custom is organized by the 3 sequential procedures; before a wedding, a wedding, after a wedding Their wedding means the union of the bride into the bridegrooms family in order to establish a new family. Therefore, the wedding costumes have been developed according to this, and the head gears have developed as a symbol which presents the meaning. A brides costume is composed of a head gear, \"Lubaha\", and \"Sarafan\" or a skirt. A bridegrooms one is made up of \"Lubaha\", and trousers. These costumes are kept through their whole life, and are worn in every important ceremonial period. Even though, the wedding customs and the wedding costumes of Russia, Belarus, and Ukrain have been developed by their general commonness, there are regionally certain differences. It is one of the important research object of the Eurasian era in the view point of culture and ethnographic, that to know the symbolism appeared in the traditional weeding ceremonial customs and the wedding costumes of Eastern Slav.ding costumes of Eastern Slav.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.75-87
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• 2017

Sensitivity has become more important in relation to design in the changing social environment and atmosphere. In the West, the concept of aesthetics has long been established but in the East, only in the seventeenth and eighteenth century China did the discussion begin. In Korea, where the first scholarly discussion on aesthetics began around 1929, more and more rigorous and theoretical discussions are emerging now. Korean beauty consists of the beauty of no-artfulness and the beauty of natural artfulness. Japanese beauty consists of the beauty of half-articulation and the beauty of articulation. While both Korea and Japan base their sense of beauty on nature, Korea emphasizes nature as it is while Japan values artful decorative elements. Especially in modern Korean fashion, the characteristic Korean aesthetics of un-artfulness appears in various expressive techniques such as the movement with natural gathering, the use of natural materials like cotton, the harmonization of black and white, and a simplified silhouette. In Japanese fashion, one can see techniques such as: the beauty of half-articulation expressed through the ambiguity of shapes, colors, and genders or simplicity and paucity using straight lines, the beauty of articulation expressed with bright flower prints and ornaments, accessories of Obi and feathers and the transformed silhouette.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.17-26
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• 1986

War has been a reason for the culture of one conservative country to make contact with the culture of another country. The Crusade, among other wars, caused cultural exchange between the orient and the occident and had a great influence on the western costume. This paper has made an attempt to find out the influence of the Crusade with respect to the cultural exchange between the orient and the Occident and to study the influence which the Crusade has had on the western costume. The Crusade was the war in which the European Christians tried to retake the Holy Land, Jerusalem, from the Islamites through the 11th century to the 13th century. As a result of this war,the autyority of the Pope was weakned, the nobles were ruined and royal authority was consolidated. Due to the contact with the Orient, trade had become active, cityes had developed and the middle class of rich merchant had grown. Gothic architecture also appeared in the Occident at this time due to the religious influence of the Crusade. Turban type headdress and the brink decoration of clothes had been very popular under the influence of the Orient. Embroidery and applique had developed and silk fabrics which had been imported from the Orient had made the costumes more fabrics which had been imported from the Orient had made the costumes more gorgeous and luxurious. Many accessories were imported from the Orient. The Oriental culture contributed to the use of rich and bright colorsm, various ornaments and splendid textiles of the western costume. Owing to the influence of war itself, many costumes had been newly made in order to adapt to the hot desert climates of the Orient. Blazon decorations, uniforms and armour had also developed.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.50 no.8
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• pp.1-11
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze the application of raditional elements in Lie Sang bong and Vivienne Tam's Fashion Design. The methods of research, the references to the precedents of prior research, fashion related journals, articles, and websites of designers were examined to analyze how each designer reinterpreted the respective homeland's traditions. The designs of Lie Sang bong and Vivienne Tam studied were from the 2002-03 F/W to the 2012 S/S collections. The results are as follow. First, both designers use traditional marks when reinterpreting the traditional clothes of Korea and China. In the case of Lie Sang bong, traditional Korean marks were linked to the western structure. For Vivienne Tam, designs which revived realistic marks identically were displayed. Second, in terms of the modern reinterpretation of the traditional clothes shapes, there were a number of cases in which the silhouettes of their respective country's traditional clothes were mainly brought into their arts. Lie Sang bong was influenced by the 'line' of traditional Korean design. In addition, the atmosphere of the traditional clothes helped to reanalyze the traditional clothes' figure. In Vivienne Tam's designs, unique Chinese images were produced by, keeping the original form of the Chinese dress. Third, in the use of the traditional ornament techniques, Lie Sang bong partially introduced and applied traditional ornament techniques while Vivienne Tam largely decorated the traditional. Chinese ornaments while directly utilizing the structuring designs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.9
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• pp.26-40
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is the Tibetan folk costumes'characteristics and change of design in stage. The subjects are the Tibetan costumes in the Spring Festival Gala of CCTV. The basic characteristics of Tibetan folk costumes are fat waist, long sleeves, overlap, and right ren. Tibetan costumes consist of Tibetan gowns, aprons, shirts, belts, Tibetan hats, headgear, ornaments, all of these compose the traditional image of the Tibetan people. Because of the long-term closed survival, the development of Tibetan costumes has no much vertical differences and changes. The costumes of Weizang(衛藏), Ali(阿里), Gongbu(工布), Kham(康巴), Amdo(安多) have different features which are divided according to different dialects. Study the changes of design Tibetan stage costumes from 25times, we can get that during the 1986~1992, people emphasis on the activities of dancers, styles are simple, just to grasp the characteristics of the Tibetan costumes. In the 1993~1999, the dancers put on the real-life Tibetan clothing on stages. By the 2000s to now, Tibetan stage costumes have much more changes in forms and colors which are more complete and complex. The types of Tibetan costumes include Tibetan all clothing, they all express the changed forms and colors without exception. So in this period are artistic Tibetan folk costumes.