• 복식
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• 제51권5호
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• pp.113-134
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• 2001

This study was carried out with an objective to prepare the framework of conformity for the 21st century modern fashion, which is interactive with mankind, based on a position that the 21st century contemporary fashion with its amalgamating trend of diversified artistic forms may not be elucidated on a standpoint centering on one certain modality. The hybrid fashion trend of historical modality which provides freedom and satisfaction in creation of an individuals expressive power in expressing true desire of mans inside through man-centered thought of the times has made multifarious motives of the past and present fragmentary. It thus extracts inner divisions and the concept of consolidation through three-dimensional form. Modern fashion is newly interpreted by the material and details of high technologies. and is harmonized by mix and match with various expressions. By having it, it is being expressed together with many types of dresses and ornaments. Modern fashion is being expressed together with many types of dresses and ornaments by new interpretations with the material and details of high technologies and by being harmonized with mix and match with various expressions. The hybrid fashion design trend of regional elements formed by stimuli and contacts of diverse local culture by globalization of network that was achieved by scientific technologies of the contemporary information society has disintegrated varied boundaries in the conventional culture by the latest communication technology-new media on the basis of newly created culture. The fact that regional elements could be expressed as if they were interrelated without each being deprived of originality may be explained with an interpretation on pluralism. The hybrid fashion design trend of cultural aspect, which manifests in the background of scientific technological culture as it transcends the societal-cultural boundaries based on the de-centralization theory of Frederic Jameson, has supplemented the imperfect meanings through conversional correlation with other forms and internal program changes. The middle stratal and polyhedral characteristics are seen as each cultural element is dismantled and reassembled by application of 'multiple-time point expression'. Design forming method is not to bring destruction from outside, but to embrace instability and chaos through radical dismantling of the inside. and to pursue diversity and openness. Thus. it is implemented by an approach that takes the role of design process. In communication of discontinuity, continuity was dismantled through forms of mixing, overlap, perversion, insertion and coincidence.

• 박물관보존과학
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• 제16권
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• pp.56-81
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• 2015

족자 고리는 끈이나 유소를 고정시켜 걸 수 있도록 하는 장황 부속품으로 형태가 다양하며 여러 금속재를 사용하여 제작되었다. 현재 전통 형식의 고리는 대부분 개장으로 인해 유실되었으며, 일본식 고리를 사용하고 있다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 국립중앙박물관에 소장된 전통 족자 19점을 대상으로 고리의 형태와 제작기법, 성분을 조사하여 옛 형태를 복원해 보고자 하였다. 의궤 내용에서 고리는 원환(圓環), 국화동(菊花童), 배목(排目) 등 고유의 명칭으로 기록되어 있다. 휴대용 엑스선 형광분석기(portable X-ray fluorescence, Artax, Rontec)로 성분을 분석한 결과, 전통 형식의 고리는 황동, 철, 은-구리합금 등 다양한 금속재로 확인되었다. 구리와 아연이 주성분인 황동은 17점 족자 고리에 사용되었다. 전 윤시달 초상(신2339)의 배목에서는 철을 사용하였으며, 주석-납 합금으로 도금하였다. 이서구 초상(신1065)에서는 고리 전체가 은-구리합금으로 제작되었음을 확인하였다. 광학현미경(Leica, M205A)으로 제작 방법을 조사한 결과 원환은 금속봉을 절단한 뒤 둥글게 휘어 만든 유형과 주조로 제작된 유형으로 확인되었다. 배목은 주조한 합금으로 봉재나 판재를 만들고 다시 단조과정을 거쳐 제작하였고, 배목장식은 금속판재를 잘라 형태를 만든 후 축조와 타출기법 등으로 무늬를 새겨 장식하였다.

• 복식
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• 제67권2호
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• pp.101-115
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• 2017

Ancient documents, characters, and relics are the utmost important materials when it comes to researching ancient clothing. Of these, the ancient characters explain the contents of the time, which makes it an objective historical record. China has hieroglyphics, such as oracle bone inscription and bronzeware script, which existed in Sang[Eun] Ju era. This character is formed by a simple line and detailed drawing, showing the object or the concrete form and characteristics, so the reader can understand the meaning. Oracle bone inscription and bronzeware script, which are written in pictograph, include contents that help to grasp the original shape and form of ancient official hats. Chinese characters Geon(巾, 건) Byun(㝸, 변) Myun(免, 면) Mo(冒, 모) Ju(冑, 주) and Kwan(冠, 관), which are the names of the official hats, have been researched, and Mi(美, 미) Ryung(令, 령) Wang(王, 왕) and Hwang(皇, 황), which are the characters related to the official hats, have been studied. Geon(巾, 건) switched its form from shape of material around waist to wraping wearer's head. Byun(㝸, 변) is a hat with decoration, and Myun(免, 면) is in form of a helmet with ornaments. Mo(冒, 모) in bone script looks like a hat with decorations on each sides, but in bronzeware script, it is more like a simple round hat Ju(冑, 주) covers one's head and has decorated ornaments, and The Kwan(冠, 관), which is now a common name of official hats, is not shown in oracle bone inscription or bronzeware script, It might have been used later than the other two types of hats. As for the related Chinese characters, Mi(美, 미) is in the shape of a feather decoration, Ryung(令, 령) is similar in shape to the letter 'A', and Wang(王, 왕) is in shape of simple hat from 령 with decorations. Hwang(皇, 황) is like a Wang(王, 왕) hat, but with fancier decorations. Oracle bone inscription and bronzeware script show the original form and shape of ancient hats.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.137-152
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• 2007

The purpose of this article is making investigation of the principal composition of the twin-pagodas in Buddhist temple through ornaments of a case preserving relics of Buddha in the east and west pagodas of Gameunsa temple. This research has an important meaning in clarifying that the concept of placement two Buddhas together with lotus sutra, which was only applied to Bulkuksa temple, has been extended to Gameunsa temple. And this observation gave us a clear explanation for the principal composition at the twin-pagodas in Buddhist temple plans. The author obtained the following conclusion from this article : The cases preserving relics of the Buddha for the west and east pagodas are globally in similar form as the type of a royal palace. But the different points between eastern and western can be seen on the existence of Buddhist statues on the base floor, set-up of the gate at railings, and 4 lion statues at a coner of the base floor. In the western pagoda, there are Buddha statues above the base-floor of the cases preserving relics. These Buddha statues are composed of a boy monks and angels with playing music for the praise of the Sakyamuni Buddha lecturing the Lotus sutra at YoungChui Mountain. On the other hand, in the eastern pagoda, Buddha statues on the cases preserving relics are composed of a the Four Devas and monks as a defending God of the nation of Buddha. In the eastern pagoda, one can see something that does not exist in the western pagoda, which is a gate located in railing of a case preserving the relics. This gate described the scene of the Sakyamuni Buddha entering into the pagoda of 7 treasures. In a corner of the case preserving relics in the eastern pagoda, there is another thing which does not exist in the western pagoda. This is a sculpture of a lion which symbols the seat of Lion supporting the Buddha in the Dabotap(the pagoda of 7 treasures). When we observe the form and structure, the descriptions at the railings, the gate, the shrine, the statue of a lion, and the accessories in jewelries, at the cases preserving the relics in the eastern pagoda, one can realize that they have the same combination structures between the ones at Dabotaps in Bulguksa temple and those in China as well as in Japan, all of which represent the Gyun-Bo-Tap-Pum of Lotus Sutra. Among the distribution rules in the twin-pagodas in Buddhist temple, the application of the ideal of lotus was known to be effected only to Bulguksa temple. But from the result of the present article, it is more clearly proved by applying the Gameunsa temple that the distribution theory in the twin-pagodas in Buddhist temple was in fact based on the ideal of lotus.

• 비교문화연구
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• 제38권
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• pp.145-190
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• 2015

The objective of this paper is to investigate translated individual words in J. S. Gale's "Choon Yang" in comparison with its original OkJoongHwa("獄中花") while referring to early modern bilingual dictionaries and missionaries' ethnography. Gale faced a lot of translation difficulties because the source text had a very different cultural system from the object text. OkJoongHwa was a Korean pansori novel which meant it included many Korean characteristics. However, Gale considered its Korean characteristics were deeply connected with Chinese classics. Even famous people and place names cited from the Chinese classics in OkJoongHwa represented the Korean thinking. Gale tried to faithfully translate the source text as much as possible whether the words were Chinese or Korean. In this paper, we deal with mostly various translation aspects of the Chinese-letter words in OkJoongHwa. Gale's first method to translate words made of Chinese Character is transliteration, the examples of which are the name of Chinese famous people and places, and Chinese poems. The second method is to parallel transliteration and English interpretation equivalent to the Chinese Character. The examples are the names of main characters like "Spring Fragrance or Choonyang," "Mongyong, or Dream-Dragon" and in his translation of word play in Osa (Commissioner), or Kamsa (Governor), kaiksa (a dead beggar). The third is literal translation of Chinese idiomatic phrases as Gale translated 侵魚落雁 into "She'd make the fishes to sink and the wild-geese to drop from the sky." The fourth is a little free translation of the title of public office, the various names of Korean yamen servants and the unique Korean clothing and ornaments. We expect Gale's many translation difficulties as we can see the translated long list of yamen clerks and Korean clothing and ornaments. After our investigation of his translation practices in "Choon Yang" we conclude that he tried to translate its literary language very faithfully though he could not avoid inevitable loss caused by the cultural difference involved in two languages. Gale's "Choon Yang" contributed to introducing the uniqueness of the classical Korean novel and Korean culture to the world more than any other English translation works of that time through his faithful translation.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제55권2호
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• pp.6-21
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• 2022

본고는 귀이개라는 특정 공예품이 시대의 흐름에 따라 변화하는 양상을 통해 당대의 물질문화에 주목하고자 하였다. 2장에서 귀이개에 관한 용어 정리를 하고, 조선후기 단편적인 문헌을 통해 귀이개의 사용 문화를 살펴보았다. 귀이개는 첫 번째로 개인의 수신을 위한 위생도구였고, 두 번째로 남성들의 선추에 다는 구성품으로 상징적인 역할을 하였다. 3장에서는 시대별로 귀이개의 형태를 분류하고, 각 형태별 특징적인 장식기법을 살펴보았다. 고려시대 귀이개는 사용목적이 위생도구였으며, 형태에 따라 단독형, 복합형으로 구분된다. 단독형에는 각봉형, 손잡이형, 판형이 있으며, 복합형에는 족집게일체형, 리벳분리형이 있다. 손잡이형 귀이개에서 고려시대의 장식기법을 살펴볼 수 있었다. 선각, 금도금, 바탕에 누정기법으로 찍은 첩호(疊弧)문, 납입사로 화려하게 장식되었다. 조선시대 귀이개는 사용목적에 따라 위생도구와 장신구로 크게 분류된다. 위생도구는 단독형, 복합형으로 나뉘고, 장신구로 사용되는 귀이개 종류로는 뒤꽂이, 노리개, 선추 등이 있다. 귀이개 장신구는 성별에 따라 여성은 뒤꽂이, 노리개로, 남성은 선추로 사용되었다. 조선시대 귀이개의 장식기법은 주로 귀이개 뒤꽂이에서 볼 수 있었다. 칠보기법으로 다양한 색을 내거나 보석감장으로 장식하였다. 그동안 공예품 중 일상도구에 관한 연구가 미진하였다. 일상도구를 통해 시대의 흐름을 읽고 물질문화에 접근하려는 시도가 활발하게 이루어지길 바란다.

• 문화기술의 융합
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• 제9권5호
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• pp.83-90
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• 2023

최근 젊은 세대의 전통 복식 체험이나, 퓨전 한복의 일상복화 등의 추세에 따라 한복용 헤어 액세서리의 개발이 필요한 실정이다. 본 논문의 연구 목적은 왕실 여성의 머리 장식을 활용하여 한복과 어울리는 실용적이고 현대적인 헤어 액세서리 디자인을 개발하여 한복 문화를 활용한 패션 콘텐츠 개발의 영역을 확장시키고, 전통 문화의 다양한 경험에 대한 수요를 충족시키는 것이다. 연구 방법은 문헌연구를 통해서 전통 머리모양 및 영왕비의 전통 장신구들을 조사하였고, 실증연구로 실물을 제작하였다. 제작과정은 먼저 전통 머리모양을 응용하여 나일론 메쉬로 기본 형태를 만들었고, 그 위에 장엄하고 화려한 왕실 유물을 활용한 디지털 텍스타일 프린팅 원단을 접목하여 궁극적으로 전통 장신구를 착용한 듯한 트롱프뢰유 기법을 줄 수 있도록 디자인을 설계하였다. 결과적으로 총 6개의 헤어 액세서리 디자인이 완성되었으며, 헤어 밴드, 헤어 핀, 헤어 고무밴드의 구조로 제작하였다. 또한 착용자의 헤어 스타일에 관계 없이 간편하게 착용할 수 있도록 하였고 나일론 메쉬 소재의 특유의 빳빳하면서 유연한 재질을 이용하여 볼륨감 있는 머리 모양을 효과적으로 표현하였는데, 이는 마치 머리카락과도 같은 시각적인 착시 효과를 즐길 수 있다는 장점이 있다. 이러한 연구 결과를 통해 일상의 유희와 희소성 있는 가치를 추구하는 대중들에게도 독특한 미적, 문화적 경험을 제시할 수 있을 것으로 생각된다.

• 박물관과 연구
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• 제1권
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• pp.198-233
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• 2024

2021년 4월 28일 고 이건희 삼성 회장 유족은 그의 수집품 중 9,797건 21,693점을 국립중앙박물관에 기증하였다. 이러한 기증 문화재 중 국립청주박물관에서 정리한 동경은 총 535건 555점인데, 금속문화재 중 가장 많은 비중을 차지한다. 이 글에서 다룰 이건희 기증 전한경과 삼한경 일괄 출토품은 총 23점의 동경으로 전한 명대경 22점과 삼한경 1점의 조합이다. 현재까지는 이렇게 많은 양의 전한경이 함께 출토된 사례가 없기 때문에 동반유물이라고 할 수 있을지에서는 의심이 가지만 삼한경이 동반하고 있는 점에서 이 중 분명히 전한경과 삼한경의 동반 상황이 있었을 것으로 추측할 수 있다. 그리고 초기의 삼한경이 출토되는 지역이 한반도 동남부, 특히 진한 지역인 경북이라는 점에서 이것들의 출토지도 진한의 어딘가였을 것으로 생각된다. 또한 -18번은 안옥을 모방하여 재가공된 것으로 유사한 사례는 한반도를 비롯하여 중국이나 일본에서도 확인되지 않는다. 다만 동경이 장옥을 대신하여 사용한 사례는 중국에서 확인되며, 전한경을 원형으로 재가공하여 사용한 사례가 한반도 남부의 진한에서만 확인되는바, 이것 역시 진한에서 재가공하여 사용되었을 가능성이 있다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.97-104
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• 1986

The change and development of costume are related to the cultural and socioeconomic factors. In the 18th century the mode of the women's costume in France was greatly influenced by the Rococo style. Elegance and exaggerated ornaments were the major characteristics of the woman's cos-tume in the Rococo period. The high hairdress and the widely hooped panier represented the typical Rococo fashion. From the second half of the 18th century onwards the aristocracy began to lose the battle with the bourgeoisie for political and economic power, and at the same time bourgeoisie fashion exerted an influence on court dress. The court fashion dominated the women's dress fashion in France up to the Revolution. Marie Antoinette, The Queen of Louis XVI, was one of the most influential fashion leaders in the lath century. The fashion, after attaining its highest point in 1770s, changed to a new direction in 1780s under Louis XVI. From that period onward the dimensions were smaller, hairdresses were not so high, and the trimming on the various garments was less liberal. In the mode, exaggeration was replaced by simplicity, and formality was replaced by functionalism.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제44권9호
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• pp.41-50
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• 2006

This study examines the characteristics of the military look in modern fashion. The materials for the study are mainly precedent studies and related literature, although fashion portfolios and magazines, domestic and international, are used for the exploratory study. The results of the study are as follows. First, the military look for women dismantles the sexual symbolism endowed with the clothes by expressing a neutral charm out of dichotomy image between genders. The neutral expression of the military look, different from the military look of the 20th century, provides a chance to feature a new image by pursuing more individual freedom than human itself. Second, the military-look emphasizes feminine sensual charm through exposing, concealing, or decorating with ornaments which are transformed from the elements of the military clothes, This is different from the past military look that expressed masculine rigidity through simplifying the details and emphasizing the male body silhouette. Third, the military look produces a deconstruction image instead of just showing its intrinsic thoughts or symbolic message through combining design elements or symbolic details of the military look with other images, transforming and exaggerating the shapes, or mixing the time point of views reinterpreting the present or the future image.