• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.1-15
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• 2019

Appropriation is of considerable significance in a cultural trend of thought, as one of the means of realizing the post-modernism period. With the increasing use of appropriation techniques in modern fashion, it is necessary to study the external performance and internal aesthetic value of appropriation in fashion. In the book of cultural appropriation, American scholar James o young divides into three categories of appropriation in culture, namely: object appropriation, content appropriation, and subject appropriation. Based on James O Young's three types of appropriation techniques summarized in the theory of the cultural appropriation, the purpose of this study is through the appropriation of the poncho of traditional Mexican clothing in modern fashion as an example; analyzing the external appropriation characteristics and internal aesthetic significance of different appropriation type. The results are as follows. First, designers take the Originality in modern fashion by expressing Mexican Poncho's form, color, pattern, and material as it is through object appropriation technique. Second, through the Mexican folk poncho's style, designers used these to show the similarity produced by content appropriation in modern fashion. Third, designers used the poncho's design concept or poncho's culture, blending the theme of the collection, adding different color, pattern or materials such as fur, lace, and wool, and presenting a new image different from folk costumes through creative subject appropriation technique.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.1-18
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to analyze and understand the approach of critical fashion by comprehending the appropriation of art as a sociocultural phenomenon that influences contemporary fashion. This study inquired into the relevant literature to explain the theoretical background behind critical fashion, and conducted a case study using exhibition catalogues, exhibition works, articles, fashion magazines, and fashion-related websites in order to examine cases of appropriation strategies. As a subversion of meaning by using an existing transposable object image to deliver an experience unlike the actual image, subversive appropriation in critical fashion takes existing things as they are and rearranges them with the purpose of subverting social values while having its subversive style of appropriation. Referring to a style that focuses on labelling the distance between the subject, that refers and that which is referred to, referential appropriation has been reprogramming existing things with an internal and introspective attitudes. In other words, from an exploitative style of appropriation aimed at expanding the meaning with found in objects by avant-garde fashion designers, to a subversive style of appropriation aimed at subverting meanings with transposable objects by conceptual fashion designers, there has been a change toward the referential style of appropriation aimed at expanding artistic forms with created objects critical fashion designers.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.530-544
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• 2022

Based on a follow-up study on critical fashion's strategies for object appropriation, this study aims to understand the appropriation of art as a social or cultural phenomenon influencing modern fashion, as well as to analyze and comprehend how to specifically approach the appropriation of critical fashion's letters through the appropriated interpretation. To explain the theoretical background of critical fashion's appropriated interpretation, it examined the related literature and data. Moreover, a fashion book-based literature review and a case study were conducted using sources, such as exhibition books, exhibited works, news, fashion magazines, and fashion sites, to examine letter appropriation strategies. In the critical fashion, the appropriation of subversive letters subverts meanings by providing experiences different from those based on real images of letters, which are displaceable. The appropriation of such subversive letters to challenge the value of modernism aims to subvert social value by bringing and relocating existing objects while focusing on their external forms. The appropriation of referential letters focuses on delineating the distance between the subjects who quote something and the quoted something and reprograms the existing letter objects with an introspective and reflective attitude. In other words, critical fashion designers can effectively express their messages through the appropriation of letters, such as graffiti and typography, which are manifestations of challenge or resistance. Appropriating letters as a creative action pursues unmarginalized humans who possess their existence.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.12-22
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• 2015

When it comes to the architecture design, Kuma Kengo rejects a strong and violent subject-centered position and advocates the design that is object-oriented. As can be seen in 'gentle architecture', 'three lows principle', 'natural architecture', and 'connecting architecture', he clearly expresses the objective nature of architecture design in those terms. In this respect, the purpose of this study is to make a close inquiry into the meaning, effect and characteristics of objectivity. In particular, we try to identify the contents of 'impure architecture', which has a clear ambivalence to be an instrumental expression strongly settled in the objectivity, in an aesthetic standpoint. To do that, we systemized the concept of mimesis and the theory of subversive appropriation by Walter Benjamin and Theodor Adorno in to a frame of interpretation. By systemizing translation, subversion, verbalization and the dialectic structure of the aesthetics of negation, we interpreted the features of his works as an objective work and 'impure architecture'. His objectivity leads the situation by subversively appropriating the inherent elements of architectural conditions based on a dialectic solution in which inquiries on logical and scientific materials have played a critical role. Above all, through all these processes, he tried to suggest a language as a new technique for materials and structures. Ultimately, we could find out that this object oriented design sublates a subject oriented way that is monolithic and repetitive regardless of objects. Rather, it is a way that is effective in creating a new way of design by making a different approach to a new object rather unfamiliarly, yet deeply.

• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.185-194
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• 2012

Contemporary society maintains mass-product system that keeps endless cycle of making and consuming. In this vein, everyday life becomes to be under the control of function and efficiency. On the contrary, the people are getting to have a desire of escaping from this everydayness, that is, the desire for non-everydayness. British architect, Nigel Coates understood the potentiality of contemporary metropolis which produce new experiences through their heterogeneities. During 1980s, Japanese economic bubble provided rich nourishment to the desire for non-everydayness based on consumers' tastes. Nigel Coates snatched this phenomena and designed commercial spaces aligned to the non-everydayness. He shows very eloquent version of escaping sense. We can find the exquisite quality of non-everydayness through design vocabulary of object's form and arrangement. In the viewpoint of object form, Coates adopted classical statues of Greek, that is antique, and modern gadgets such as airplane wings and seats. Also, we can find abundant gestures of curvilineal contours throughout the objects he designed. As for the objects' arrangement, he introduced repetition and curved composition that can stimulate human interaction with interior scape.

• American Studies
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• v.42 no.2
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• pp.79-107
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• 2019

This article explores the photographic work of North American artist Jeff Wall. While his photographic work has been much discussed in terms of aesthetics and composition highlighting his methodological appropriation of modernist painters such as Eduard Manet and Piet Mondrian, the political aspect of his work remains to be investigated. This article especially unpacks the complicated dialectical relationship between the formal aesthetics and the political nature of his works by visiting his photographic work in the context of contemporary debates on the contradiction and conflicts between aesthetics and politics in photographic form. Ultimately, this article argues that Wall's photograph acquires its political meaning by problematizing the reified social representation of the other in a way in which the materiality and/or otherness of the photographic object is registered within the photographic frame and by representing the violence of the social representation and the un-representability of the object/other.

• Management & Information Systems Review
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• v.13
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• pp.99-125
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to improve local government accounting system for value creation. In order to achieve this object: First, improvement of public finance policy can be obtained through connection of policy and estimate, and evaluation of soundness and rationality of tax system. Second, innovation of appropriation is achieved through effective division of cost, efficient division of budgetary resources and perfect accrual accounting. Third, a performance report must include accurate performance measures and performance indicators, for its effect is linked to public finance policy. Fourth, general principles of local government accounting must include significance, reliability, consistency with user concepts, relevance, understandability and comparability for financial reports.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.688-701
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• 2014

This study examined the expression characteristics in pop art works of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. The study here aimed at possibility to find a design development in building up the unique art world of creativity based on popularity, artistry, and originality without confinement to the trend only. For the research method, review of literature and analysis about Castelbajac's works reflecting the pop art feature in the collections from 2000S/S to 2012F/W were performed. The results of research are as follows. The external expression form of Castelbajac's works based on pop art was grouped roughly into use of mass culture image, appropriation of pop art expression technique, and parody of art works. First, his work appeared as application of the mass culture image such as symbolic thing in the modern consumer society, object in an ordinary life, character of well-known animation, national flag and famous star. Second, such appropriated pop art techniques showed as pop color in strong primary color and silk screen, photomontage, collage, assemblage, graffiti, and lettering. Third, a variety of images featured earlier in art works were shown in parody. These works are valuable in that they are expressed aesthetically through regeneration of popular culture's various images in view of fashion, they are described in the non-traditional value with frolic resistance and deviation out of existing fashion norm, and they are given the dynamic creativity integrated with art and fashion.

• SUVANNABHUMI
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.53-84
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• 2017

The paper demonstrates the potential contribution of integrating discursive and affective analytic regimes in framing the study of Southeast Asia. I examine the "emotional possibilities" available to migrants with particular focus on the experience of Filipino domestic helpers in Hong Kong thrown into relief in 2016 by news of maids falling to their deaths while cleaning windows of their employers' above-ground apartments. First, I situate the study in recent calls for Critical Discourse Studies and Migration Studies to transcend foundational methodologies in their respective fields in order to apprehend formerly disregarded aspects of the human condition, including affect and emotion. I then briefly present the debate in the affective turn in social analysis, which has to do with rethinking the attachment of affect and discourse. My own inquiry is premised on the assertion that emotion is multidimensional. I specifically explore the usefulness of taking emotion as "affective-discursive practice" by focusing on an analysis of the appropriation of the victim role by foreign domestic helper employer groups that could be seen in pertinent news reports of selected online Hong Kong newspapers. In the end, I also emphasize the necessity of reflexivity in projects that take affect as central object of inquiry.

• The Journal of Art Theory & Practice
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• no.15
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• pp.51-79
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• 2013

This paper examines the characteristics of post-modern self-portrait photography. Characteristics of postmodernism associated with the "loss of centeredness," such as the death of the author, interdisciplinarity, and intertextuality, brought about a number of changes within the self-portrait. The distinction between post-modern and modern self-portraiture can be characterized by the following qualities: appropriation, the use of photography, and the utilization of the human body as an art. The characteristics of post-modern self-portrait photography can be represented through the works of Cindy Sherman, Orlan, and Morimura Yasumasa. By presenting prototypical women in her works, Cindy Sherman not only represents images of those women, but also exposes her fictitious role in the work. She creates a distance between herself in the works and herself in reality and discloses a paternalistic gaze. Meanwhile, Orlan transforms her face into a distorted image and presents it as an alternative identity that is representative of postmodernism. She corrodes the standard concept of identity through plastic surgery and treats the face not as a place where the identity stays, but as a simple body part or fragment of skin. Orlan's post-human face is malleable according to the artist's desire to raise the issue of what the human face is, and opposes the structure of modernism. Morimura Yasumasa also appropriates images from masterpieces and presents a hybrid identity between Eastern and Western, male and female, original and replica, and subject and object. In order to dissect social prejudice, he puts forth every single structural dichotomy that coexists in his self-portrait and suppresses a strong ego. He also studies the relationship between 'seeing' and being 'seen' by trading the painter's role from that of the subject to that of the object.