• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제31권6호
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• pp.405-412
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• 2017

Because of the rapid development of computer technology in recent years, wave models can utilize parallel calculations for the high-resolution prediction of open sea and coastal areas with high accuracy. Parallel calculations also allow national agencies in the relevant sectors to produce marine forecasting data through massive parallel calculations. Meanwhile, the eastern coast of the Korean Peninsula has been increasingly damaged by swell-like high waves, and many researchers and scientists are continuing their efforts to anticipate and reduce the damage. In general, the short-term transformation of swell-like high waves can be reproduced relatively well in the third generation wave models, but the transformation of relatively long period waves needs to be simulated with higher accuracy in terms of the nonlinear wave interactions to gain a better understanding of the low-frequency wave generation and development mechanisms. In this study, we developed a calculation module to improve the calculation of the nonlinear energy transfer in the 3rd generation wave model and integrated it into the wave model to effectively consider the nonlinear wave interaction. First, the nonlinear energy transfer calculation module and third generation model were combined. Then, the combined model was used to reproduce the wave transformation due to the nonlinear interaction, and the performance of the developed operation module was verified.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.307-317
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• 1993

파랑의 비선형성 및 분산을 고려한, 연안역에서의 파랑변형에 관한 연구를 수행하였다. 규칙파의 변형에 관한 수학적 모형은 비선형 ray모델에 기초하였으며, ray 및 파동장에 관한 방정식들을 수립하였다. 비선형 파동장은 수정 Korteweg-de Vries 식으로서 나타내었으며, 이에 대한 몇몇 해석 해들을 구하였다. 또한 Caustic 변형 및 감쇄효과를 수학적 모형에 포함하였다. Korteweg-de Vries 방정식에 대한 수치계산 알고리즘과 안정조건을 기술하였으며, 연안역에서의 비선헝 파랑변형 계산 결과를 제시하였다.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.35-40
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• 2006

In recent years, there's been strong demand for seawalls that havea gentle slope and permeability that serveswater affinity and disaster prevention from wave attack. The aim of this study is to examine wave transformation, including wave run-up that propagates on the coastal structures. A numerical model based on the weak nonlinear dispersive Boussinesq equation, together with the unsteady nonlinear Darcy law for fluid motion in permeable layer, is developed. The applicability of this numerical model is examined through Deguchi and Moriwaki's hydraulic model test on the permeable slopes. From this study, it is found that the proposed numerical model can predict wave transformation and run-up on the gentle slope with a permeable layer, but can't show accurate results for slopes steeper than about 1:10.

• 한국항만학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.25-36
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• 1996

Generally, it is pointed out that a nonlinear analysis is needed to estimate accurately the water surface fluctuation and dynamic responses of a floating structure in case of large wave reflection. In this study, a frequency-domain method is applied and newly developed to analyze the nonlinear characteristics of the air-chamber floating breakwater. The air-chamber floating breakwater in this study can control well the wave transformation, motions of the structure and its natural frequency by adjusting the air depth in the chamber. Experiments are carried out to verify the numerical results. It is appeared that the mean water level is setup in the anti-node and setdown in the node, while the nonlinearity in wave profile is larger in the node than in the anti-node. Because of vertical mooring system, the sway, especially the time-independent nonlinear component, plays predominant role in the motion. On the other hand, the time-dependent component, as well as the time-independent one to the tensile force of mooring line contributes greatly, and the time averaged value presents tensional force oriented to the onshore side due drift force.

• 한국수자원학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국수자원학회 2005년도 학술발표회(2)
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• pp.842-845
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• 2005

A method for the numerical simulation of two-dimensional free-surface flow resulting from the propagation of regular gravity waves over topography with arbitrary bottom shape is presented. The method is based on the numerical solution of the Euler equations subject to the fully nonlinear free-surface boundary conditions and the appropriate bottom, inflow and outflow conditions using a hybrid finite-differences and spectral-method scheme. The formulation includes a boundary-fitted transformation, and is suitable for extension to incorporate large-eddy simulation (LES) and large-wave simulation (LWS) terms for turbulence and breaking wave modeling, respectively. Results are presented for the simulation of the free-surface flow over two different bottom topographies, with constant slope values of 1:10 and 1:20, two different inflow wave lengths and two different inflow wave heights. An absorption outflow zone is utilized and the results indicate minimum wave reflection from the outflow boundary. Over the bottom slope, lengths of waves in the linear regime are modified according to linear theory dispersion, while wave heights remain more or less unchanged. For waves in the nonlinear regime, wave lengths are becoming shorter, while the free surface elevation deviates from its initial sinusoidal shape.

• 한국항만학회지
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.75-86
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• 1998

To design a coastal structure in the nearshore region, engineers must have means to estimate wave climate. Waves, approaching the surf zone from offshore, experience changes caused by combined effects of bathymetric variations, interference of man-made structure, and nonlinear interactions among wave trains. This paper has attempted to find out the effects of two of the more subtle phenomena involving nonlinear shallow water waves, amplitude dispersion and secondary wave generation. Boussinesq-type equations can be used to model the nonlinear transformation of surface waves in shallow water due to effect of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, and reflection. In this paper, generalized Boussinesq equations under the complex bottom condition is derived using the depth averaged velocity with the series expansion of the velocity potential as a product of powers of the depth of flow. A time stepping finite difference method is used to solve the derived equation. Numerical results are compared to hydraulic model results. The result with the non-linear dispersive wave equation can describe an interesting transformation a sinusoidal wave to one with a cnoidal aspect of a rapid degradation into modulated high frequency waves and transient secondary waves in an intermediate region. The amplitude dispersion of the primary wave crest results in a convex wave front after passing through the shoal and the secondary waves generated by the shoal diffracted in a radial manner into surrounding waters.

• 한국수자원학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국수자원학회 2005년도 학술발표회(2)
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• pp.916-917
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• 2005

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.355-360
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• 2007

본 논문에서는 수심이 일정한 수조에서의 비선형 천해파의 변형 과정에 대한 연구를 수행하였다. 파랑의 최초 쇄파에 대한 특성을 자세히 분석하고, 비선형파의 경사 및 퓨리에 스펙트럼을 산정하였다. 분석결과 스펙트럼의 진폭은 실용적으로 추산이 가능한 파랑 경사를 이용하여 표현할 수 있다.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.597-605
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• 2019

This paper proposes a novel method for efficient prediction of joint distributions of heights and periods of nonlinear ocean waves. The proposed novel method utilizes a transformed linear simulation which is based on a Hermite transformation model where the transformation is chosen to be a monotonic cubic polynomial, calibrated such that the first four moments of the transformed model match the moments of the true process. This proposed novel method is utilized to predict the joint distributions of wave heights and periods of a sea state with the surface elevation data measured at the Gulfaks C platform in the North Sea, and the novel method's accuracy and efficiency are favorably validated by using comparisons with the results from an empirical joint distribution model, from a linear simulation model and from a second-order nonlinear simulation model.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.29-33
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• 2005

The accuracy of predicting wave transformation in the nearshore is very important to wave hydrodynamics, sediment transport, and design of coastal structures. Numerical experiments are conducted to identify the shoaling and breaking characteristics of a fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation-based model. Simulated shoaling showed good agreement with the Shouto's formula, and the results of the breaking experiment agreed well with experimented data, over several beach profile.