Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers (한국해안해양공학회지)

Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers (한국해안·해양공학회)
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Spectra of nonlinear shallow water waves

비선형 천해파의 스펙트라

  • Zahibo, Narcisse (Physics Department, University of Antilles Guyane) ;
  • Didenkulova, Ira (Applied Mathematics Department, State Technical University, and Department of Nonlinear Geophysical Processes, Institute of Applied Physics) ;
  • Pelinovsky, Efim (Applied Mathematics Department, State Technical University, and Department of Nonlinear Geophysical Processes, Institute of Applied Physics)
  • Published : 2007.08.31
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Abstract

The process of the nonlinear shallow water wave transformation in a basin of a constant depth is studied. Characteristics of the first breaking of the wave are analyzed in details. The Fourier spectrum and steepness of the nonlinear wave are calculated. It is shown that the spectral amplitudes can be expressed using the wave front steepness, which allows the practical estimations.

본 논문에서는 수심이 일정한 수조에서의 비선형 천해파의 변형 과정에 대한 연구를 수행하였다. 파랑의 최초 쇄파에 대한 특성을 자세히 분석하고, 비선형파의 경사 및 퓨리에 스펙트럼을 산정하였다. 분석결과 스펙트럼의 진폭은 실용적으로 추산이 가능한 파랑 경사를 이용하여 표현할 수 있다.

Keywords

References

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