• Title/Summary/Keyword: wave breaking

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Research on Wave Kinematics & Wave Loads in Breaking Wave (쇄파의 유동구조 및 쇄파력에 대한 연구)

  • LEE BYEONG-SEONG;JO HYO-JAE;GOO JA-SAM;KANG BYUNG-YOON
    • Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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    • 2004.11a
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    • pp.96-101
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    • 2004
  • When the wind blows hard, most waves are breaking in sea. Breaking waves occur, exceeding limitation of wave steepness(wave height/wave length=l/7). Because a wave of single angular frequency couldn't generate the breaking phenomena at two dimensional ocean engineering basin, the breaking wave can be generated by the superposition of waves with various angular frequencies. We research how are the particle kinematics in the breaking wave and the magnitude of the breaking wave exciting force. We compare the force in a regular wave which has same specifications(wave height, period and length) as the breaking wave. Also the experimental results of wave exciting force and particle velocity are investigated by comparison on the analytic results using the potential theory.

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Research on Wave Kinematics and Wave Loads in Breaking Wave (쇄파의 유동구조 및 쇄파력에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Soo-Lyong;Kang, Byung-Yoon;Lee, Byeong-Seong
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.21 no.1 s.74
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    • pp.18-24
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    • 2007
  • When the wind blows strong, most waves are breaking at sea. Breaking waves occur by exceeding the limitation of wave steepness (wave height/wave length = 1/7). Because a wave of single angular frequency couldn't generate the breaking phenomena at a two-dimensional ocean engineering basin, the breaking wave can be generated by the superposition of waves with various angular frequencies based on dispersion relation. This study investigates the particle kinematics in the breaking wave and the magnitude of the breaking wave exciting force at the breaking point and breaking region. We compare the regular wave load in a regular wave, which has same specifications (wave height, period and length), with the breaking waveload. Also, the experimental results of wave exciting force and particle velocity are investigated, by comparison with the analytic results using the potential theory.

Analysis of Offshore Wind Tower against Impulsive Breaking Wave Force by P-Y Curve

  • Kim, Nam-Hyeong;Koh, Myung-Jin
    • Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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    • v.39 no.5
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    • pp.385-391
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    • 2015
  • In offshore, various external forces such as wind force, tidal current and impulsive breaking wave force act on offshore wind tower. Among these forces, impulsive breaking wave force is especially more powerful than other forces. Therefore, various studies on impulsive breaking wave forces have been carried out, but the soil reaction are incomplete. In this study, the p-y curve is used to calculate the soil reaction acting on the offshore wind tower when an impulsive breaking wave force occurs by typhoon. The calculation of offshore wind tower against impulsive breaking wave force is applied for the multi-layered soil. The results obtained in this study show that although the same wave height is applied, the soil reaction generated by impulsive breaking wave force is greater than the soil reaction generated by wave force.

Wave Breaking and Breaking Wave-Induced High Frequency Pressure over Submerged Breakwater (잠제에 의한 쇄파 및 쇄파에 의해 발생하는 고주파수파동압)

  • Koichiro IWATA;Koji KAWASAKI;Hirokazu SUMI
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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    • 2002.08a
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    • pp.14-23
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    • 2002
  • Wave breaking and breaking wave-induced hydrodynamics are very important subjects in the field of coastal and ocean hydrodynamics and engineering. In the coastal zone, a submerged breakwater has been increasingly popular, since it is one of nature-matching structures with multi- functions such as (1) wave energy dissipation by wave breaking and friction, (2) oxygen supply to sea by wave breaking and breaking wave, (3) water purification by entrained air bubbles, (4) keeping. good seascape. and (5) good habitat for sea livings. Recently, the breaking wave-induced high frequency pressure over a submerged breakwater is said to have a function of gathering sea livings around the structure, which has encouraged the construction of the submerged breakwater in coastal zone. (omitted)

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Evolution of Wave Profiles in Directional Breaking Generated by Serpent-type Wavemaker (서펜트형 조파기에 의해 생성된 다방향 쇄파의 파형 전개)

  • Hong, Key-Yong;Hong, Seok-Won
    • Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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    • 2002.05a
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    • pp.264-269
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    • 2002
  • The wave profiles of directional breaking waves are investigated experimentally in a directional wave basin. The directional breaking waves are generated by component wave focusing both in direction and frequency based on constant wave steepness and constant wave amplitude spectrum models. the profile parameters of wave crest steepness and asymmetry are adapted to analyze the evolution of breaking ware characteristics in a view of focusing efficiency. The generated breaking waves are classified into the incipient, single and multi breaking waves.

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Experimental studies of impact pressure on a vertical cylinder subjected to depth induced wave breaking

  • Vipin, Chakkurunnipalliyalil;Panneer Selvam, Rajamanickam;Sannasiraj Annamalaisamy, Sannasiraj
    • Ocean Systems Engineering
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    • v.12 no.4
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    • pp.439-459
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    • 2022
  • This paper describes experimental studies of impact pressure generated by breaking regular waves in shallow water on a vertical cylinder. Experimental work was carried out in a shallow water flume using a 1:30 - scale model of a vertical rigid circular hollow cylinder with a diameter 0.2 m. This represents a monopile for shallow water offshore wind turbines, subjected to depth induced breaking regular waves of frequencies of 0.8 Hz. The experimental setup included a 1 in 10 sloping bed followed by horizontal bed with a constant 0.8 m water depth. To determine the breaking characteristics, plunging breaking waves were generated. Free surface elevations were recorded at different locations between the wave paddle to the cylinder. Wave impact pressures on the cylinder at a number of elevations along its height were measured under breaking regular waves. The depth-induced wave breaking characteristics, impact pressures, and wave run-up during impact for various cylinder locations are presented and discussed.

Evolution of Surface Profiles of Breaking Waves Generated by Directional Wave Focusing (다방향 파랑집중에 의한 쇄파의 파형특성 연구)

  • Hong Keyyong;Choi Hak-Sun
    • Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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    • v.5 no.1
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    • pp.11-18
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    • 2002
  • Directional breaking waves are generated by the component wave focusing both in direction and frequency based on constant wave steepness and constant wave amplitude spectrum models. The generated breaking waves are classified in the incipient, single and multi breaking waves. The characteristics of directional breaking waves are investigated in terms of surface profile parameters of wave crest steepness and asymmetry. The evolution of breaking wave characteristics is analyzed in a view of focusing efficiency. It shows that the front steepness and vertical asymmetry play an important role in breaking process, while the crest rear steepness and horizontal asymmetry are nearly constant during the process. The superposition of directional components greatly enhances the focusing efficiency and it suggests that characteristics of directional breaking waves may significantly different from uni-directional ones.

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Wave Breaking Characteristics over Composite Slope Section (복합단면지형에서의 파랑의 쇄파변형특성)

  • 권혁민;요시미고다;최한규
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.7 no.2
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    • pp.135-140
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    • 1995
  • The procedure of wave energy dissipation due to breaking has been investigated with trains of the regular wave. To obtain the data for wave breaking and its deformation, experiments have been conducted by utilizing a horizontal step adjoining to a combined slope of 1/20 and 1/10. After breaking the wave height decreases by dissipation but attains a stable value at some distance from the breaking point Experimental results show that the stable wave is considerably affected by the wave period. The study gives the general form of stable wave height A new one-dimensional wave deformation model is proposed. being coupled with an approximated shoaling coefficient before wave breaking and the new energy dissipation term after breaking. It was compared with the experimental data. It predicts well the wave height deformation before and after wave breaking even on the abrupt change of the depth.

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Breaking Wave Generation in the Laboratory (실험실에서의 쇄파발생)

  • Cho, Won-Chul;Michael Bruno
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.4 no.3
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    • pp.178-186
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    • 1992
  • An experimental study of deep-water breaking waves are performed by superposition of different wave frequencies, faster waves overtaking slow waves at a certain location. Large spilling and plunging breaking waves are generated near the expected breaking location. Wave steepness in spilling and plunging breakers significantly increases as the breaking point is approached and then decreases after breaking. Larger growth rate of the wave steepness in vigorous plunging breaking is observed. The fundamental wave frequencies in a wave group are dominant through the wave evolution, even in an intense plunging breaking event.

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Study on the P-Y Curve around the Mono-pile Foundation of Offshore Wind Turbine by Impulsive Breaking Wave Force

  • Go, Myeongjin;Kim, Namhyeong;Ko, Yongsu
    • Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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    • 2014.06a
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    • pp.253-254
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    • 2014
  • In offshore, various external forces such as wind force, wave force and impulsive breaking wave force act on offshore structures. Many researches about this forces are published. Kim and Cao(2008) published researche on wave force of vertical cylinder. Kim and Go(2013) performed research on the subgrade reaction by external forces. Among this forces, impulsive breaking force is more massive than other forces, especially. Therefore, the studies about impulsive breaking wave forces have been carried out. Chun and Shim(1999) analyzed dynamic behavior of cylindrical pile subjected to impulsive breaking wave force. In this study, when the impulsive breaking wave force acts on the offshore wind turbine, the subgrade reaction acting on the mono-pile of the offshore wind turbine is calculated by p-y curve. The calculation is carried out to the multi-layered.

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