• Human Ecology Research
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• v.58 no.3
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• pp.357-374
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• 2020

This study suggests the use of standardized sewing terms for the construction of smart sewing systems. This study analyzed the use of stitches (ISO 4915) and seams (ISO 4916) for cut and sewn knit garment which are the basic elements of sewing on an ISO basis. The results of the analysis of sewing specifications of cut and sewn knit garments are as follows. First, the use of stitches and seams were analyzed. As a result, both stitches and seams were used as non-standard terms. Second, among 3,263 stitches, ISO 4915 No. 406 followed by 401, 504, 605 were the most frequently used; however, ISO 4915 No. 514 was anticipated the most because the ISO 4915 No. 514 used for joining was not recorded in the sewing specification. Finally, the use of stitch for each seam was analyzed. The most common stitch used for ISO 4916 No. 6.02.07 was ISO 4915 No. 406. In addition, when it was sewing ISO 4916 No. 4.04.01, ISO 4915 No. 504 was used in step 1, and ISO 4915 No. 406, 602, and 605 were used in step 2. It is important to use the international standard sewing terms for the production site based on the results. In addition, the construction of smart sewing systems and the work of international standardization through industry-university cooperation are important for securing global competitiveness. Therefore, the use of international standard terminology and practical training should be conducted with a focus on stitching and seams with high frequency of use.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.19-32
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• 2014

The sewing machine was the most widely-advertised item in mid-Victorian English periodicals. However, no historians have so far analyzed how English advertisers created the link between the domestic sewing machine and middle-class women, or what impact they may have had on gender relations. This paper treats sewing machines as a medium to enhance our view of gender and social history, consumer culture as well as material culture studies. Studying the advertisements of sewing machines reveals the traditional values and modern consumer culture of mid-nineteenth England, and also offers a sense for how advertisers expected people to react. Sewing machines could not only offer women aspiration and authority, but could also function as a timesaver through which a woman could attain a truly modern lifestyle. Buying a sewing machine for their wives symbolized their status as a breadwinner and a caring husband, as well as serving as an appreciation of their wives' domesticity. Sewing machines also provoked anxiety for both sexes because some believed that women would lose their morality and gender identity, whereas others believed that if relieved of domestic drudgery women would have time to educate themselves, which threatened to men and the gender hierarchy.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.7
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• pp.88-102
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• 2010

The research examines the characteristics of the sewing methods used for women's Jeogori in modern Korea. The results are following. In the 1920s sewing of shoulder parts was started, and in the 1930s sewing by hand had reduced by dissemination of sewing-machine, and in the 1940s the Som-jeogori declined by the matter of economic and sanitary issues. In the 1950s four-fold sewing emerged, and during the 1960s the gause-lined triple-layered Jeogori was in fashion, and in the 1970s the Ggaeggi-jeogori and much elaborated Jeogori became in vogue. The characteristics of the sewing methods are changed by following factors. First, the dissemination of sewing-machine in the 1930's enabled fast and precise sewing of Jeogori which reduced the rate of clothes mending and the production period. Second, by development of washing method, the dry cleaning became common, resulting cleaner washing and better preservation. Third, introduction of western clothes gave rise to modernized Han-bok which was changed into practical and simple one. Fourth, by the introduction of synthetic textile and industry development, Jeogori with no armhole line or right Seop line was made using wide selection of textiles. Fifth, in 1945~60s, women learned' good wife and wise mother' education and the use of sewing machine in school. The clothing lifestyle affected the sewing method's change, for example, clothes sewed strongly by sewing machine not to take clothes apart, and attaching button instead of Go-reum to save clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.209-215
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• 1978

This experiment was designed to analyze the factors, which are very common in practical sewing, affecting on sewing shrinkage by using orthogonal array ($L_{27}$) table. The results were analyzed by using the computer program, PDP 11/10. The results showed that sewing shrinkage was increased up to 3 times of laundrying but no further changes could be found. Sewing shrinkage was affected much by the number of stitching and yarn tension and the rate increased with proportion to the number of stitching in unit length and yarn tension. When cotton yarn was used in P/C fabrics, the shrinkage was much smaller, but this results did not agree with other articles reported. Sewing by using $\sharp$11 needle and 1000$\~$1500r.p.m. seemed to lower the shrinkage rate.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Precision Engineering Conference
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• 2011.06a
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• pp.117-118
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• 2011

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.351-362
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• 2016

Domestic sewing industry is showing signs of a redevelopment and the demands of the sewing technician are gradually increasing. This study would investigate the opinions of sewing technicians about job environments and training situation in order to solve the shortage of sewing manpower. As a result of a survey with 100 sewing technicians, of the pay systems, the salary system showed the highest satisfaction and preference. Their satisfaction with pay was low. There was a tendency that they work on Saturdays and national holidays, and their satisfaction with the number of holidays was low. Most worked for 10 to 11 hours per day, and they showed low satisfaction with their working hours. There were no places to rest in the company. They showed law satisfaction with the air and vent. The sewing technicians were concerned about respiratory and musculoskeletal diseases because of the working and workplace environment and needed places to rest, vent facilities, and spacious and comfortable spaces. The total lead-time that they were sent to the field as skilled workers was 1 to less than 2 years; they received training from seniors; and the training period, mostly, was 6 months to 2 years. Most of the sewing technicians surveyed had the expertise, did not feel the necessity of retraining related to their tasks, and did not have any willingness to take reorientation due to a lack of time even with their tasks.

• Journal of Industrial Technology
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• v.20 no.B
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• pp.189-194
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• 2000

In this paper, we present a BLDC Motor control for needle positioning and velocity control in the industrial sewing machine. In the industrial sewing machine, the fast acceleration control is needed, especially for a person who has a skill in operation of sewing machine for more products. And it is also needed to have a less noise and vibration. But the system which is made in a low price has no feedback system for a current control. Therefore we propose the method of velocity pattern that has an acceleration of velocity and Anti-windup algorithm. By the experiment, we confirmed that these manner have a good performance for low noise, low vibration and fast acceleration in the industrial sewing machine.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.81-88
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• 1977

In order to investigate seam puckering in thin fabrics for summer clothing, this experiment was conducted. Eight different fabrics were sewn with ten different kinds of sewing thread, three different sizes of stitch, and three sewing directions and effects on puckering were examined. The results are as follows: 1. More seam puckering appears on thin fabrics than on thick ones. 2. Less seam puckering appears with the smaller sizes of stitch. 3. Slant direction of sewing gets less seam puckering. 4. Almost no puckering appears with slant direction even after washing.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.91-100
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• 2017

The primary goal of most clothing-related textbooks currently used in colleges in Korea is to determine how to plan and develop basic patterns. Therefore, they are limited in understanding the patterns and sewing methods of practical, ready-made clothes that are continuously being upgraded. According to previous studies regarding sewing methods in clothing construction textbooks, tight skirt, tailored jacket, and shirt sewing methods have been explained. However, there has been no study on the sewing methods of slacks. Therefore, this study attempted to suggest basic data needed for making slacks through a comparative analysis of their sewing methods for educational purposes. In addition, this paper is meaningful in that it complements clothing construction-related textbooks according to the current trends of diverse clothing design and materials and develops learning materials for the construction of clothes, which are applicable to practice. In this study, the sewing methods and construction procedures of slacks stated in clothing construction textbooks that are currently used in colleges and fashion-related educational institutes were analyzed. Among a total of 47 textbooks on the market, 15 books that cover the cutting and sewing methods of slacks and are suitable to slacks design were used. According to the analysis, most textbooks described the production methods only, without explanation of materials, which can affect clothing construction methods. Because there is a large difference in pocket and slacks procedures by textbook, there is a need for a standardized construction method with changes in clothing materials and design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.8
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• pp.87-98
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• 2002

Recently, we consist in the crucial juncture have to develope culture goods which is worth standing for our nation's endemism. In this vein, this study tried to reproduce and apply it to the present time by the consideration of various elements such as the kind, the use and the fabrication of sewing craft-works was beloved in women's quarter called Kyubang in the Chosun dynasty. With this, this study was designed to develope craft-works which can make an appeal to foreigners with the merits between contemporary factor and traditional factor. The findings of this study were as follows; First, since economic system in the Chosun dynasty was based on home handicrafts and self-sufficiency, it was a commonplace of the Chosun dynasty that home industry such as sewing, spinning and sericulture was thriving among all the women without social ladder. And also, since women of the day were governed by confucian tradition and moral obligation, they mainly have to live in women's quarter called Kyubang restricted to visitors. For the reasons, Wives of the time have no choice but to spend their time by sewing in the promotion of virtues for woman. In additions, they made an effort to pray for the longevity, the wealthy and the fertility of their family members. Second, the sewing instruments is necessary for women's sewing. And also, since sewing instruments was considerably scientific, efficient in those shape and structure, this instruments could save wives a lot of trouble. Third, since many people were convinced of the functions as practicality as well as fanciness, the sewing craft-works were very useful to them in leading their daily life. Fourth, the reappeared works were a total of 22, and the applied works were a total of 17.