• 복식
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• 제55권6호
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• pp.125-140
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to define the special characteristics of the neoclassic style in eighteenth to nineteenth century fashion. Researching into philosophy and aesthetics in eighteenth to nineteenth century, the characteristics of the neoclassic style in fashion is considered the clarity of form, the utility of function, and the sensuality combined with body. The results of this study are as follows: The clarify of form is found in geometric form based on anatomical truth of the human body in relation with rational and scientific thoughts. The utility of function is found in simple and suitable construction considering purely practical purpose of dresses. The sensuality combined with body is found in natural silhouette dress alluding naked body in connection with Rousseau' naturalism. Understanding aesthetic value of the neoclassic style will help to develop fashion designs associated with neoclassical forms.

• 복식
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• 제56권4호
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• pp.148-159
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to understand continuity and discontinuity of the neoclassic style in early twentieth century fashion modernism. Researching relations in fashion between eighteenth to nineteenth century and twentieth century, the theory of 'linked solution' suggested by Kubler and Broadsky has been accepted. The results of this study are as follows: In early twentieth century fashion, continuity of the neoclassic style is considered as presentation of geometric form based on anatomical truth of the human body and moderation of decoration. Also simple construction to present practical purpose of the dress in honesty were continued. On the other hand, discontinuity of the style is found in the imitation of men's classic tailored suits and standardization of sizes and styles. These are considered to reflect such early twentieth century sociocultural contexts as equality of the sexes and mechanical aesthetics. Hopefully this study will contribute to the broadening of insight in fashion connecting traditions.

• 복식
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• 제63권2호
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• pp.82-97
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• 2013

The aim of this thesis is to investigate the change of men and women's costumes in late 18th century and early 19th century in view of its ideological streams by examining the portraits of the painter Jacques-Louis David. The method of investigation used was to select 29 pieces of portraits from 1766 to 1825, which showed the clear descriptions about the costumes and to analyze the costume's forms, ornaments and the headdress. The category was divided into 3 stages in terms of the changes in costume. The first stage, from 1766 until 1788, is the one of turnaround from the Rococo costume to the early neoclassical one. The typical Rococo costume was incrementally transformed into a simpler design without ornaments, and then natural silhouette in men and women's costumes started to appear from 1783 until 1788. This might be attributed to the neoclassical trend which was affected by the enlightenment ideology. The second stage, from 1788 until 1795, is the period of change from the costume of the early neoclassic style to the typical neoclassic style and also the time from the 1793 to 1795 was regarded as the peak of neoclassic style when the effect of enlightenment began to decrease while one of neoclassicism exerted its strong influence on the costume. The third stage, from 1795 until 1825, similar to the previous neoclassical style was also notable in its turning into producing the empire dress of Empire style. From 1820 on, it was a period that showed signs of influence from romanticism while the effect of neoclassicism started to become more diminished.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2005년도 International Costume Conference PROCEEDING
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• pp.112-113
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• 2005

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권6호
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• pp.595-602
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• 2007

This study examined the aesthetic characteristics of Grecian style which is being considered as the representative classic of Western fashion and the transformations of those Grecian styles on the fashion of the twentieth century. This study used positive research method using literatures on art history and clothing history, fashion related publications, and magazines and websites to understand the trend of fashion designer's collections. The study results are as follows. The aesthetic characteristics of Grecian style was considered to be the ideal beauty combined with symmetry, the functional beauty combined with non-construction, and the sensual beauty combined with natural body. The ideal beauty combined with symmetry appears as a style that shows idealistic proportion of a body emphasizing high-waist based on the golden ratio and the body as a whole rather than details. The functional beauty combined with non-construction appears as perfect recreation a body in its original and natural form. The clothing takes a form that does not have any structural design and has simplified cutting and sewing. It uses pins and strings to fix up the form of clothing which is flexible and naturally draped. The sensual beauty combined with natural body is found in natural silhouette dress alluding naked body in connection with Rousseau' naturalism in neoclassic period. Throughout the twentieth century, the desire for Grecian style was conveyed by a single detail or through an array of allusive effects.

• 복식
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• 제62권1호
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• pp.120-136
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• 2012

This thesis takes an aim to investigate the relationship between the costume and enlightenment ideology by studying the change of costume, and reviewing the portraiture of Queen Marie Antoinette. The method of this research is to select the 29 pieces among the portraitures from 1770 to 1793, and to analyze the headdress, shape of robes and ornaments. The results are as follows. The first period(1770-1774): The costume in this period of Dauphin of France is described as vivid, and simple like her characters, and also represents her active lifestyle. The ideology of equality between the two sexes from the enlightenment slightly influence the costumes seen inside the portrait of Dauphin. The second period (1775-1779): This is the early period of the Queen's enthronement and also before her childbirth. The relatively small number of portraits showed her as an authoritative figure because her skirts were expanded with huge panier, the waist were tightened with corset, and her headdress was enlarged. Thus, this period could not be defined as the one of enlightenment philosophies in light of the persistent unsanitary construction of costumes distorting the body. The third period(1780-1789): There are many portraits depicting the Queen and her children. It is noteworthy that the English style picturesque garden was illustrated as a background while the costume was simple and sanitary, both being affected by the enlightenment. The last period(1789-1793): This is the period between the French revolution and the death of the Queen. The form of costumes was transformed into the neoclassic style, headdress was reduced in size, and was simplified as a result of complete change of costume for the enlightenment. This research is to be interpreted as a tool of study about the relationship of costume, society and ideological streams and also be a means of elucidating the contemporary times in view of the past ones.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제47권3호
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• pp.4-23
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• 2014

석조전은 1897년경 대한제국 총세무사 브라운이 건의하여 하딩의 설계로 덕수궁에 건립된 신고전주의 양식의 황궁이다. 1900년 기공하여 1910년 준공되었으며, 공사비는 약 100만원 내외 소요되었다. 내부공사는 로벨이 감독을 맞아 메이플사가 진행하고, 창호 전등은 크리탈사가, 가구 생활소품은 메이플사가 납품하였다. 브라운과 하딩, 로벨은 영국인, 메이플사와 크리탈사는 영국회사로 석조전은 영국인에 의해 발의, 설계, 공사가 진행되었다. 브라운은 1896년 아관파천 이후 1897년 총세무사직에서 해임되고, 1898년 재임되었다. 재임 후 브라운은 자신의 입지를 확고히 하기위해 황실 내 영국인의 고용을 확대해 주변인을 영국인으로 채웠다. 이러한 상황에서 브라운은 석조전을 발의하고 건축 공사를 시행하였다. 이는 개인적인 입지와 영국의 이익을 대변하기 위한 행동의 연장으로 추정된다. 석조전에 입고된 가구는 영국 런던에 본사를 둔 메이플사의 것으로 메이플사는 유럽의 호화주택, 호텔, 대사관, 궁전 등에 가구를 납품한 곳이다. 메이플사는 당시 일러스트를 삽입한 카탈로그를 제작하였는데, 석조전 실내사진에 등장하는 가구와 동일한 예가 다수 등장한다. 이를 통해 석조전 가구는 기성 생산품을 구매한 것임을 알 수 있다. 석조전은 조선 전통의 관점과 전혀 다른 서양인의 관점에서 계획된 건물로 서양의 왕실 궁전 개념과 실내의장, 가구가 들여왔다. 석조전의 가구는 대한제국기 유입된 서양가구 및 당시 서양인의 왕실 가구에 대한 인식을 엿볼 수 있는 중요한 사례이다.