• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.617-627
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• 2010

This study selected and compared 7 tailored collar making factors from 15 clothing construction university textbooks. According to the results, in 15 clothing construction textbooks, the neckline of a tailored collar was drawn at the same length as the back neck circumference of the bodice and the length of collar stand was 3cm in 10 textbooks. In addition, the length of the collar laying varied between 2cm and 4.5cm regardless of the width of the upper collar or the textile thickness. In 7 out of the 15 textbooks, the gorge line of the collar was drawn by illustrating the collar pattern on the bodice based on the roll line and then copying it symmetrically. On the other hand, the pattern of upper collar was made in 5 ways; and 2 books did not give any explanation in the sections dealing with patterns or sewing. In addition, 6 textbooks explained that inner and outer collars are sewn with a difference. The lapel pattern of the facing part was made in 4 ways; in addition, 3 textbooks did not provide an explanation and 4 books explained that the difference is given in the sewing. The textile thickness and elasticity need to be considered in collar pattern making; however, they were not specifically mentioned in most of the textbooks.

• Maxillofacial Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.525-528
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• 2011

A deep circumflex iliac artery (DCIA) flap is usually used for reconstruction in oral and maxillo-facial surgery department since introduced by O'Brien in 1975. Various flap designs are possible for osteomusculocutaneous, musculocutaneous, musculosseous and vascularized bone types. Iliac crest shape is similar to contour of mandible. Moreover, though a fibular flap has only 15~20 mm of cutting plane width, a DCIA flap contains much more bone amount, making this a similar reconstruction compare with normal mandible. A 68 year-old male with squamous cell carcinoma on the anterior floor of the mouth had an impression with T2N0Mx and the treatment procedure was DCIA reconstruction after wide resection and marginal mandibulectomy, with both supraomohyoid neck dissection. We present an experience of DCIA flap for reconstruction with a literature review.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.93-101
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• 2015

This study aims to suggest the patternmaking method of men's slim-fit six-panel jacket sloper in their 30's. The researcher collected four kinds of existing slopers and carried out appearance evaluations twice. The researcher's sloper was developed by modifying and supplementing the existing sloper with high scores from the evaluations. The results are as follows: first, when comparing the four kinds of existing slopers, dimensions and patternmaking methods of 18 areas, especially width of back chest and side chest, were varied according to the existing slopers. Second, the researcher's sloper had excellent scores in the appearance evaluations such as placements of side line on the chest, waist, hip line, measurement in dimension from the center back hip line and from waist line, and appearance of neck line. Third, the suggested sloper are as follows: the ease on the chest is 10.5 cm, 8~10 cm extends for the jacket length, the measure in dimension from the back waist is 2.2 cm, dart intake at the back side is 4 cm, dart intake at the front side is 1.5~2 cm, and dart intake at the front waist is 1 cm. This suggested six-panel jacket sloper is expected to be useful for the various slim-fit jacket designs which have the side panels.

• The Journal of Korean Medicine
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.52-60
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• 2007

Objectives : The purpose of this study is to evaluate if the answers of questionnaires correlate with real body shapes and to evaluate if there are any differences between different types of questionnaires. Methods : We hand-measured body circumferences and body widths to analyze statistically answers of 9 questions from 2 different questionnaires. Also we compared two different types of questionnaires with Pearson product-moment correlation coefficient and two way ANOVA test. Results : There are significant correlations between answers of questions and all measured body circumferences and most body circumferences except for iliac width. Also answers of questionnaires even about the same chest part are not quite the same according to the opposite type of questionnaire after we compared grouping two of eight questions. Patients seem to have difficulty to recognizing if their necks are well-developed or not especially when the question asks about body shape when comparing two parts such as neck vs waist or chest vs buttock. Conclusions : There is general tendency of recognizing one's body shape properly. But also there are differences of recognition according to the type of questionnaire about the same body. So it is recommended to study more about the questionnaires.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.15-23
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• 1977

This article is to study Dopo, man's traditional robe, which was worn by courtiers and scholars in Yi dynasty (AD 1392-1910). This article deals with its history and transition according to relative documents available, and presents its construction method with reference to relics. It is recorded that Dopo was first worn about the middle of the time of Yi dynasty. Dopo, however, seems to have its origin in the robe of Koguryo dynasty (BC 37-AD 668). Dopo was an ordinary robe to court officials, whereas Confucian scholars wore it as an official uniform or a ritual robe. ft was a long over-coat with V-neck line, and, round and wide sleeves. Dopo was so long that its edge reached wearer's ankels. One of the widest sleeves of relics was 58cm in size. Another unique characteristics Dopo had, were that its back cloth splited in two on center line, which was fully covered and added with-another cloth called 'Jeonsam'. Accordingly, a cloth-30cm in width and 30 yards in length-was needed to make Dopo. Since the reform of 1894 it was prohibited to wear, and then was replaced with Durumagi, a strait collar and narrow-sleeved robe.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.73-84
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• 1982

The purpose of this study was to develop a basic bodice pattern and establish standards regrading to the size and grading of Korean misses' measurements in order to provide modern data for the ready-to-wear garment industry. 222 girls, aged from 18 to 27, were measured on 19 items of their structure. Mean, standard deviation, coefficient of variance, maximum, minimum, range and correlation coefficient between each items were analized. The analysis revealed the following significant results. The fundamental difference data of the bodice pattern and grading measurements between the year of 1975 and 1981 were as follow. (1) The measurements of bust and center back were used as a foundation to establish a standard size and grading. (2) Ranges of the bust circumference measurements were increased. Thus the sizes ere classfied into 5 groups. (3) The ease of bust circumference was increased due to the increasement of shoulder width. (4) The increase of the upper arm resulted to lower the bust line. (5) The shoulder slopes were higher than 1975. Therefore, the basic measurements of the shoulder slopes were reduced. (6) In spite of the front neck measurements were not changed, the back measurements were requied to increase. (7) the center front length became much shorter in the contrast with the increase of the center back length.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.151-167
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to find out comparison of preference style and wearing style of jacket by body perception and satisfaction. This research was done by a survey method. Descriptive Statistics, t-test, Pearson's Correlation, Coefficients MANOVA, Two-Way ANOVA and Duncan's test were used for data analysis. The results of this study are as follows. 1) The subjects were less satisfied with larger or thicker girth of upper body. The subjects were less satisfied with thicker upper arm, lower arm, waist and lower abdomen. The subjects were less satisfied with larger or thicker girth of lower body. The subjects were less satisfied with thicker hips, thighs, calves, ankles, and longer crotch length. 2) The subjects with the highest dissatisfaction about neck thickness and length prefer jacket with collar but wear jacket without cellar. The subjects with the smallest bust wear jacket with short lapel. The subjects with wider shoulder wear jacket with narrower shoulder width. The subjects with more dissatisfaction about shoulder incline wear raglan sleeve jacket. The subjects with wider hips wear hip line length jacket.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.15 no.2 s.38
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• pp.189-198
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• 1991

The object of this study is to perceive the discomforts of the brassiere consumers according to their age groups & weight groups. The study procedures consisted of a status quo study, a rating on fit and performance according to brassiere types. 1. The result of the status quo study are as follows. (1) The study showed that with getting age bust circumference and bust size become larger with a bigger tendency to droop. Thus older age, bigger bust circumference and size require a technically improved version of brassieres. (2) Slightly tight fit brassieres were favored over more ample ones. The hobbling areas were center front, under armpits, and shoulder strapareas in that order. 2. The results of fit rating on different brassiere types are as follows. (1) The areas affected by brassiere performance were length from side neck point to bust point (bust length), width between bust points and bust height. (2) Compared among brassiere types, the wire type proved most effective. The bigger cup size group had higher satisfactory rate and low discomfort on wearing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.11
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• pp.1271-1284
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• 2011

This study improves the fitness of Air Force winter service uniforms through the development of a shirt pattern drafting method and automatic pattern drafting program for MTM production. A calculation formula is formed through a correlation analysis and regression analysis using Size Korea 2004 3D measurement data after analyzing 4 kinds of existing shirt pattern drafting methods and 3 types of shirt patterns currently used for the Air Force service uniform. The results of this study are as follows: The developed pattern drafting method has 4 parts that use calculated dimensions: neck base width, front interscye, back interscye and scye depth. Other body measuring parts that have a high correlation with calculation parts are inserted into regression analysis as independent variables to create dimension calculation formulas. The result of the final study patterns were better than existing winter service uniforms in nearly all items for the appearance evaluation and motion adaptability evaluations. The method was converted into an automatic pattern drafting program using C++ after the completion of pattern drafting method development.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.136-152
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to provide dress forms and jacket blocks for adult males based on the analysis of their somatotypes. As the result of the research conducted for this study that was based on 1290 males of 20 to 54 years-old, the shapes of adult male were 20 and each body shape was classified by size factor, height and chest girth. Also, master sizes were selected considering appearance frequency. XS type (master size: height 165cm and chest circumference 88cm), Yd type (master size: height 170cm and chest circumference 91cm), YI and AD2 types (master size: height 170cm and chest circumference 94cm) were selected to develop dress forms and their jacket blocks in this study. The procedure and results were follows; 1. The dress forms of XS, Yd, YI and AD2 types were produced base on means of 61 body measurements and cross sections of shoulder, chest, waist, hip of subjects belong to each somatotype. 2. New jacket blocks for XS, Yd, YI and AD2 types were developed based on the body surface developments through draping and the results of comparative investigation on the existing jacket blocks by wearing test. Also the drafting methods of new jacket blocks were provided. 3. The sensory evaluation by wearing test showed that the developed jacket blocks were estimated more highly in terms of chest's allowance, the front width's allowance, neck wrinkle, front allowance and overall appearance's fitness items than existing jacket blocks.