• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.1 s.66
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• pp.127-136
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• 2007

Modern society shares new culture derived from the fusion of various cultures unlike the past culture regulating one phenomenon of certain field as the representative icon of the era. Especially, the phenomenon of globalization acts as the catalytic agent to receive coexistence of variousness easily. Especially, in fashion industry, these flows and the view of naturalism are harmonized and new fashion trend called 'Ethnic' was embossed. As it reflects internal spirit of human being that wants to return to the memory due to expansion of material civilization, the interest in the designer pursuing it is increasing. This study tries to consider the Ethnic style displayed by Chinese American designer, Anna Sui, who pursues the eastern style with full wit and individuality. Anna Sui, who was praised by New York Times for 'the superb harmony of houte couture style and up-to-date style', created another fashion trend, romanticism in New York and she is the worldwide designer representing Ethnic. Like it, the consideration on her Ethnic style reanalyzing as eastern style provides guidance to check how designer's fashion philosophy appears in one category of America and China and new study material that enables us to understand the third world culture code as well as Anna Sui. This confirmation has the meaning as the basic material for the endless challenge to the new style that fashion will go on in the future. Anna Sui was confirmed to have been recognized as a designer who represented the ethnic collection in the United States, exerting the influence with her unique oriental background. Moreover, her design could identify the pivotal point of ethnic image by developing her unique style which is distinct from other designers in terms of silhouette, color, fabric, detail, and so on. This kind of study can provide the basic data required to understand the fashion world of designer in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.3 s.151
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• pp.412-424
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• 2006

This paper starts out with a review of the concepts of naturalism and natural clothes. Based on these concepts, the paper aims to create nature-friendly and high-value modem designs by grafting natural images from butterflies into human bodies. The images of butterflies are combined to show distinguished luxury and diversity with natural materials such as denim. As for the design technology, Adove Illustrator 10, Photoshop 7.0, and Prima Vision Textile Design System are used since they are very popular in the CAD system. The followings are the main findings of our research. Naturalism displays its objectivity based on its inherent interest in human nature and its factual description in scientific approaches with an intention to find a true meaning of human life in nature. Natural clothes can be defined as the clothes of natural silhouette which are made of pure materials in natural colors and dyes from natural motifs such as animals, plants or natural phenomena. We have realized that the visually distinguished looks of butterflies are indeed far more luxurious than those of any other insects and this visual distinction can be utilized to attract the attention from designers. Lastly, it turns out that the digital printing technique can create more variety in colors and design forms than the manual printing, thereby providing designers with more options and practicality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.30
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• pp.227-237
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• 1996

The purpose of this study is to investigate the main characteristics of the environmentalism expressed in contemporary fashion. i.e. 'eco-look'. They can be categorized into naturalism symbolism primitiveness and concern about recycling. First naturalistic tendency can be found in through the method of some contemporary eco-looks which are using natural colors harmonisation of the colors in similarity and in controst and expressing in a realistic manner some natural entities or use some ornaments representing them. Such trends easily let people to feel the clothes unified with the nature and human beings. Secondly some contemporary eco-looks express environmentalistic ideas for examples the idea for protection of the nature or the idea against pollution of the earth and destruction of nature in a symbolistic way. Thirdly primitiveness is one of the most characteristic feature in contemporary eco-looks. It can be found in contemporary eco-looks, In can be found in some eco-looks using primitive or original images of Africa and underdeveloped countries. it reflects the human desire to go back to the nature or to the unity with the nature, Finally recycled materials are commonly used in eco-look. Patchwork and handmade knits are popular methods for this mode. They implicates the idea of pragmatism and simplicity in fashion. One Conclusion of the paper on eco-look: fashion design which can be itself an import-ant environment of human beings Secondly some contemporary eco-looks ex-press environmentalistic ideas for examples the idea for protection of the nature or the idea against pollution of the earth and destruction of nature in a symbolistic way. Thirdly primitiveness is one of the most characteristic feature in contemporary eco-looks. It can be found in some eco-looks using primitive or original images of Africa and underdeveloped countries. it reflects the human desire to go back to the nature or to the unity with the nature. Finally recycled materials are commonly used In eco-look Patchwork and handmade knits are popular methods for this mode. They implicates the idea of pragmatism and simplicity in fashion. One Conclusion of the paper on eco-look ; fashion design which can be itself an import-ant environment of human beings has become a very efficient and significant tool to express the idea of ecology.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.133-149
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• 2007

Amid a wave of informatization, the world is allowing diverse exchanges and cooperations in the global village to be promoted. And, a change in the life environment and the consumption pattern allows the key word in distribution revolution called 'online' and 'emotion' to be recalled. As the emotion is being positioned as the trend of the new era, this study has its significance in that even the fashion industry desperately requires the emotion marketing aiming at the artistic value and practicality in fashion and the creation in value-added, and requires the development and utilization plan for diverse VMD programs on the rational dress shop, like the successful case of the trendy shop such as America's large bookstore 'Barnes & Noble.' Accordingly, the purpose of this study is to design and suggest the virtually trendy dress shop as one plan of utilizing VMD, by examining about the fashion business environment and about 'emotion trend' according to the consumer purchase needs, and through researching into the cases of the trendy dress shops with the emotion marketing. The virtual trendy dress shop 'Muse,' which was proposed as its research result, was designed with having the main concept as urban naturalism, which points to the urban and sophisticated coordination, and to the simple personality and rational value, as one method of utilizing VMD in the differentiated dress shop. And, it is desired to be performed the researches on the development and the utilization plan for diverse VMD programs in the dress shop down the road.

• Journal of Science of Art and Design
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• v.11
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• pp.5-35
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• 2007

When it comes to art, the two conflicting themes of 'scientific progress' and the 'nature' have often motivated the advent of the new mode of arts. By the late 20th century, uniform and simplified mode of arts, inspired by scientific and technological progress of that time, was gradually disillusioned by the contemporaries due to the adverse effect of science on human life. In this context, naturalism pursuing for harmony of human and the nature came up as an alternative to those living in the 21st century. The pendulum has swung from minimalism to naturalism. Though the quantitative improvement of human life cannot be denied, the uprise of such problems as environmental pollution and exhaustion of natural resources degraded the quality of human life, which, eventually, shifted the attention to the theme - 'revival of naturality.' Therefore, this thesis intends to represent the modem interpretation of the 'revival of naturality' by applying the major expressions of Art Nouveau that also emphasized naturalism. Art Nouveau found its motifs from organic figures of natural beings and put them to designs of decorative arts. This carries a historical significance in that Art Nouveau boldly revolutionized historicism, which only repeated adoption and modification of the existing modes of arts, and opened it to the modem design with new attempts to practical applications of the arts. Art Nouveau, which means 'new art', prospered from the late 19th century to the early 20th century, and even after one century, it is highly appreciated, reviving as novel and vivid forms in this contemporary art. Art Nouveau based on naturalism has revisited our contemporary period when naturalism and feminized romanticism came into fashion and its common motifs revive in different jenre of arts such as fashion, furniture, glass works, and jewelry works. This study illustrates and analyzes the works of four major artists who gave a specific attention to botanical motifs of Art Nouveau and applies decorative beauty of highly sophisticated and organic curved lines and the expressional forms of botanical figures to design. Art Nouveau proved this; the nature herself is as beautiful as she can be. Within Art Nouveau, the true humanism can be revitalized with the 'revival of naturality'. This study rediscovered the boundless potential of modern interpretation and application of Art Nouveau in decorative art and design.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.19-33
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• 2002

In the middle of economic and mental riches in the 21st century, the importance of well being and the pursuit of happiness are emerging as the new trend. Thus the lifestyle that values comfortable and practical naturalness and intrinsic merits has come to influence the human life rather than the old showing-off and formal desire. In addition to this, the spread of the five day week has given more leisure time, which has led to the increasing interest in health and leisure. The interest in sports has skyrocketed since the successful holding of the 2002 Korea and Japan World Cup event. All these changes to the lifestyle have contributed to the fusion of luxury wear and sports wear. As the result of the consumers in the 21st century having more classified and upgraded way of living thanks to the settlement of the above-mentioned lifestyle and the enlargement of the leisure sports culture, there has appeared the wellness kin, who value the importance of life and the nature and believe in the idea that they can reconstruct the environment in the way they can enjoy their lifestyle and pursue happiness. They favor healthy fashion items and think much of exercise, nutrition, and rest. They pursue the natural and comfortable style, whose ideas came from simple exercises such as health training and yoga and the easy and comfortable look observed at resorts. Their fashion style can be divided into three of fitness fashion, yoga fashion and resort fashion. First, the boxer fashion is characterized by the relaxing design and practicality. The major items of the fashion include running shirt-styled upper clothes, training pants, hooded shirts and sneakers. Simple and comfortable look should be induced from the combination of the items. Second, the yoga fashion was motivated by the comfortable yoga wear. It advocates stress-free spirit and comfortable and stable naturalism. Along with the advantages of the good feeling to wear and the functionality to help exercise better, the yoga fashion gives the wearer enough room to move around in, using the unique lines. Third, the resort wear refers to the kinds of clothes you tend to wear at the beach and the park. There are various kinds of the resort look; bathing suits, the beach wear you can wear with the bathing suit, the resort evening wear, the full-side look that you try on top of the bathing suit and is made of the same material of the bathing suit, and the marine look, the symbol of the summer. In short, the study attempted to investigate many trends occurring as the result of human recent increasing interest and concern in the quality of life, and the impacts of them on the fashion world. This kind of research that examines the background of the times and society will help to grasp with the fashion trends of the present and the future. And more studies should be conducted on the development of new and original design in clothes fashion, which reflects the characteristics identified in this kind of research.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.61-79
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• 2013

This study takes a look at the distinct and exclusive culture of Latin America, with a specific focus on Mexico, and attempts to understand its unique cultural identity by comparing, analyzing, and evaluating the characteristics of the Mexican fashion brands, Taller Flora and F$\acute{a}$brica Social, which are brands that have actively used the Latin American cultural identity in its designs. The research method was as follows: 1) performing literature research with specialty publications and thesis that dealt with the two brands 2) analyzing the contents of various articles from the Internet and interviews related to the brands. Thus, this research attempts to understand the characteristics of the fashion brands that use the cultural traits of Latin America in order to dissect its methods and find a way to apply it so that it can be used in different cultures, and in effect, lead to the advancement of the fashion industries, in general. Taller Flora and F$\acute{a}$brica Social are two brands that are able to stand out with a distinct identity by applying traditional native Latin American qualities in its products, as well as its products reflecting a respectful and balanced relationship between people and nature. The characteristics of the two brands are as follows: 1) showing the concept of "the coexistence of diversity" by expressing "the old and the new", "simplicity and flash", and "melding of the Western culture via colonialism and traditional cultures of the aboriginals and other diverse native cultures" 2) achieving "the recovery of the human dignity" by protecting the human rights of the native female artisans and building a network for equality 3) pursuing "free naturalism" by balancing the natural provision of nature and man in addition to promoting environmental protection and conservation of goods 4) becoming "the bridge between communication and exchange" by connecting the artisan, the designer and the consumers together, or the producer and the market, as well as the different cultures of markets from diverse countries.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.43
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• pp.259-282
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• 1999

To analyze the characteristics of Orientalism which is expressed in the fashion of the 1990's this study was examined according to three aspects such as form textiles and pattern and the aspects was considered with regard to Chinese Indian Japanese Korean, Southeas Asian and North African style. 1. In form Orientalism which is influenced by latest other fashion trend; Naturalism and Minimalism is expressed as a comfortable casual style which simplifies the way of wearing and mixes the characteristic elements of folk costume with western costume. The way of layerd wearing like knotting wrapping draping and the symbolic from which is inspired by the unique are of each country are shown. 2. In textiles Chinese Japanese and Indian silk as well as Southeast Asian and North African cotton show a splendid oriental impression using vivid color. On the other hand the linens of Korea like hemp and ramie emphasize natural characteristics and show a simple and unartificial oriental beauty. But in the use of material and color it shows a remarkable tendency to break the preconceived idea by coordinating a luxurious silk with a practical denim or harmonizing technical new-masterials with traditional materials. 3. In pattern the decorative elements of Orientalism such as a traditional pattern skills to dye embroidery and other decorations are emphasized on the form of western costume. The sketchy patterns of Chinese Korean and Japanese styles which include the pattern of a flower a bamboo and a butterfly are expressed using embroidery or textile printing. The geometrical seriate patterns of Southeast Asian and North African styles use traditional dyeing methods like Batik. Also the Indian technique of decoration like Mirro Work satisfies handcrafted royalty and feminine romantic taste in modern minimal fashion. The Orientalism expressed in the fashion of 1990's emphasizes the characteristics of people wearing colthing which break the preconceived idea by simplifying the form harmonizing differences between oriental and western cultures and mixing the elements of traditional costumes among countries. Most of all. Ethno using geonmetrical seriate pattern and technical new metal material and Romantic Ethnic using flower embroidery precious stones and beads are appearing as a distinctinve feature.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.9
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• pp.1645-1654
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• 2001

패션은 지속적으로 변화하며 이는 새로운 패션 트렌드의 출현을 의미한다. 특히 지난 1990년대 패션은 사회, 과학, 경제, 문화 등 사회환경의 급격한 변화로 새롭고 다양한 가치의 추구로 패션분야에서도 새로운 것에 대한 욕구가 급증하였다. 따라서 본 연구는 1990년대 패션 트렌드를 분석하여 패션의 특성을 파악하여 미래의 패션을 예측하고 대응하기 위한 자료를 구축하는 것을 목적으로 하였다. 패션트렌드는 향후 예측되는 유행테마, 스타일, 색채 , 소재 , 디테일 등을 제시하고 있는데 , 본 연구에서는 시대상을 보다 심층적으로 파악하기 위하여 패션테마만을 집중적으로 분석하고 고찰하였다. 일반적으로 패션테마로 제시되는 개념 이 나 용어들은 동시대의 사회현상과 패션 분야에서 요구될 것으로 예상되는 내용이 비교적 자유분방하게 제 시 하고 있으므로, 패션 테마의 분석과 고찰은 패션의 실체를 이해하는데 매우 유용하다 하겠다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 패션테마로 제시된 용어들을 수집하고 분석하여 , 패션경향는 물론 패션의 실체를 파악하고자 하였다. 연구 대상은 1990년대 10년간의 패션트렌드로 설정했으며, 분석자료는 구체적으로 국내패션정보사인 K·F·S와 S· F·I에서 제시한 트렌드지를 사용하였다. 연구결과 1990년대 패션은 종래의 상식적인 디자인 개념을 넘어서서 여러 가지 다채로운 스타일들이 역사적 시간과 여러 문화의 공간을 오가며 교류되는 포스트모더니즘적 인 특성을 강하게 나타냈으며 , 이러한 경향은 매우 깊고 광범위하게 1990년대 의 패션트렌드에 반영되어 나타났다. 최근의 첨단 과학 기술의 발달과 이에 반하는 자연으로의 회귀욕구와 인간의 본질을 추구하는 인식의 전환 또한 패션 트랜드에 영향을 주었다. 이들을 포용하는 패션 주제는 크게 자연주의, 세계주의, 미래주의, 복고주의 등으로 분석되었다. 이 와 같은 패션 테마들은 각각 독립 적 이 기보다는 서로 상호 보완하고 조화를 이루는 가운데 1990년대 패션으로 형상화되었다. 이러한 1990년대 패션 경향의 분석 결과는 동시대의 사회상을 반영하는 동시에 패션의 특징인 주기성과 반복성을 그대로 보여주고 있었다. 이러한 연구 결과는 패션의 특징을 파악하고, 21세기 패션 경향을 보다 정확하게 예측하고 제시할 수 있는 중요한 자료로 사용될 수 있을 것으로 기대한다.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.1-19
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• 1989

Dress is an expressive art form which involves a human activity; utilizes techniques under sufficient technical control that results in the production of typical forms on the basis of aesthetic standards. This study was conducted to clarify a relationship of Impressionism and it's image in dress-Bustle style. Artists such as Manet, Renoir, Cezanne, Gogh, Gauguin, and Rodin were reviewed. Impressionism was a method of painting that consists in repoducing an impression exactly as it is experienced from contemplation nature. The Impressionists used a technique of separate, fragmented brush strokes and pure prismatic colore, aiming at rendering changing effects of light. Fashion designers such as Charles Worth, Givency, Cardin, Ungaro, and Lacroix were examined. Throughout their fashions, they focused on the naturalism of feminine and seductive image-the touch of Vegetable Venus depicted on the paintings of Manet and Renoir; expressed "unmitigated sexiness" in various forms of Bustle sytle creating a seductive beauty, revealing body contour, breast and legs, and using a fragmented motif and flowers with vivid color.