• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제26권4호
• /
• pp.100-111
• /
• 2022

After the corona pandemic, when consumers choose clothes, the issue of sustainability has become a more important selection criterion. The eco-friendly functional fiber used in the study is a smartcell, which has functions such as UV protection, decomposition of harmful substances, deodorization, antibacterial and biodegradation. This eco-friendly functional fiber was dyed using five kinds of natural dyes to examine the color change according to dyeability and dyeing conditions. As natural dyes, gardenia, turmeric, sappan wood, lac, and indigo were used. For comparison with smartcell, rayon, a cellulose regenerated fiber, and wool fiber, a protein fiber, were dyed under the same conditions to compare dyeability and color. The study results are as follows. It was found that smartcell had superior dyeability compared to rayon and wool in gardenia dye and showed lower dyeability than wool when dyeing turmeric, sappan wood, and lac dyes, but showed superior or similar dyeability than rayon. In case of indigo dyeing, the dyeability of smartcell was the best when dyed once, but it was found that smartcell had a lower effect on repeated dyeing compared to wool or rayon. Therefore, smartcell has superior dyeability compared to rayon fiber in gardenia, turmeric, sappan wood, and lac dyeing, and in case of indigo dyeing, it is suitable for light dyeing. When smartcell is produced as textile fashion products, natural dyeing is actively introduced and commercialized, and it is hoped that this study can be a reference material.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제28권11호
• /
• pp.1353-1360
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study is to develop a cultural products design of korean image using fabrics. The study is carry out in literature research methods and make sample product. We examine existing researches about cultural product design development to understand developed items, materials, and design directions. The brainstorming method and the established literature researches were used to obtain the design components of Korean image. A cultural products design was developed into the decorative structural details. The results can be summarized as follows: Korean image is pure, passive, gentle, small, and lasting life-force at weeds and wild flowers. Korean form is rounded curve and soft silhouette as streamy, not exaggerate. Korean color is not a finishing treatment, non-dyed natural color, or pastel, light greyish, and dull tone. Korean textile is a natural materials as linen, ramie, and coarse silk. Final sample products are table supplies, home goods and bed goods applying the sewing method of tuck, quilting, top-stitching, patch work, applique and embroidery.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제7권6호
• /
• pp.50-56
• /
• 2003

Chitosan has been widely applied to the products in various industries such as textile fabrics, apparels, foods, medical area, etc. Cochineal has long been employed as one of natural dyestuffs in the textile industry. The effect of chitosan pre-treatment on the low-stress physical and mechanical properties of cochineal-dyed fabrics including cotton, silk, nylon and polyester fabrics was investigated in this study. The chitosan treatment and mordanting of the fabrics changed the bending, shear, compression, and surface properties of the fabrics. In cotton fabric specimens, while the increase of B(bending rigidity) of cotton is relatively high, the increase of G(shear rigidity) of cotton is relatively low. In nylon and PET fabric specimens, while the increase tendency of B is relatively low, that of G is high compared to the corresponding cotton fabrics.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제20권2호
• /
• pp.210-218
• /
• 2018

The natural dye product market is expanding due to the recent interest in environmentally friendly products. This study examines dyeing using natural Coptidis Rhizoma. Chitosan and Tannin was treated to improve dyeability of Coptidis Rhizoma after finding the proper dyeing condition. In addition, dyeing characteristics were compared according to mordant types along with the mordanting methods for dye fixing and color change. The results indicated that the optimum dyeing condition was to treat the concentration of 5% (o.w.b.) at $80^{\circ}C$ for 90 minutes. By the chitosan and tannin treatments, K/S value of cotton fabrics by 3 times and those of wool fabrics by 2 times increased and color depthing of dyed fabrics was achieved after 2 cycles repetition. To improve dyeability, iron mordanting was most effective; in addition, the K/S Value of pre-mordanting fabrics versus post-mordanting fabrics increased the most. The color of the surface was changed to reddish yellow when Sn, Cu mordanting, and to greenish blue when Fe mordanting. The lightfastness of dyeing fabric with mordanting was weak at 1-2 grades, but the washing fastness was good for 4 grades and the rubbing fastness and sweat fastness were as good as those of the 3-4 grades. As a result, this study could help improve the dyeability of expensive Coptidis Rhizoma.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제7권3호
• /
• pp.36-44
• /
• 2003

Chitosan treatment of textile fabrics has been studied to improve fabric characteristics and functions. Natural dyestuffs have been more actively employed in environment-conscious finishing products. In this study, chitosan treated cotton and nylon fabrics were prepared for dyeing with a few natural dyestuffs. These were Caesalpina sappan, Gardenia jasminoides, and cochineal in the form of powder. Hand-related physical and mechanical properties and luster characteristics were examined using the KES-FB series instruments and a set of luster measuring equipment. The chitosan treatment seemed to be more effective in terms of increasing stiffness for cotton fabric. Since cotton fibers have more -OH groups in the molecules, they provide more linkage sites with the chitosan than the nylon 6 fibers do.

• 한국지역사회생활과학회지
• /
• 제22권1호
• /
• pp.77-94
• /
• 2011

It is not clear to assume the history of dyeing by persimmon juice without an early knowledge of an accurate record. However, the beginning of persimmon dyeing in Korea is estimated to be around the $13^th$-$14^th$ century, even though there are no supporting records. On the other hand, there are definite records of persimmon dyeing in Japan from around the 17th century. Persimmon juice was originally used for fishing tools in both Korea and Japan, but upon entering the Modern Era it eventually transfigured into a dye for fabric. In Korea, persimmon-dyed fabrics were used for traditional clothing until it also became a popular choice for modern clothes in the 1990s. In Japan, persimmon juice was originally used for varnishing surfaces of household items, but it recently became a material for arts, crafts, and even apparels. The main difference between persimmon dyeing of the two countries is the presence and absence of the fermentation process. In Korea, persimmons are picked and water is immediately added to its juice to produce the dye. In contrast, Japan produces a fermented persimmon dye. As a result, in Korea the dye can not be preserved for long periods, whilst in Japan it is matured in the storage for 2-3 years. Today's pursuit of eco-friendliness and wellness has prompted an inclination towards natural material clothes. Therefore, it is necessary for both countries to push scientific research into improving the storage methods and colorfastness of persimmon-dyed products for the increase of use consumption in other areas of persimmon and arrowroot dyed fabrics, and the development of environment friendly materials.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제35권7호
• /
• pp.736-747
• /
• 2011

This study investigates the current status and dyeing properties of various natural indigo powder dyes in the domestic market. Products from India, China, Europe are sold in the market and only a few manufacturers provide recommendation for the method of dyeing and information on the additives. Through the market research and the preliminary investigation on 21 products, 11 were selected for the dyeing experiment which include 3 Indian, 3 Chinese, 2 German, and 1 Pakistani origin indigo reduced powders, and 2 Indian origin dried indigo leaf powder. The two dyeing methods used were the precipitation method and the fresh juice method, both at $10^{\circ}C$, $25^{\circ}C$, and $60^{\circ}C$. Color difference, K/S value, and colorfastness of dyed cotton fabrics were examined. Indian reduced indigo powder showed the highest K/S value, deep dyeing, and the best color fastness. Chinese reduced indigo powder resulted in a more greenish and bluish color. Powders of dried indigo leaves were easy to use but resulted in a pale color due to low dye uptake.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제20권6호
• /
• pp.752-758
• /
• 2018

Due to environmental pollution and human hazards of some synthetic dyes, the global fashion companies are increasingly interested in eco-friendly products, especially natural dye. For the globalization of natural dyeing industry based on this concern, however, there are some deficiencies of standardization, specification, and conformity assessment on natural dyestuffs as well as natural dyeing process. These obstacles should be not only studied but also defined for a commercial transaction. Accordingly, a study for conformity assessment on commercialized natural dyestuffs (red) was conducted by HPLC analysis in this study. As the results of HPLC analysis, alizarin and purpurin, representative index ingredients, were detected in most of the samples, but the index ingredient content in each sample was different. In addition, some samples showed the variety of peaks including the index ingredients and others. It was inferred that the representative index ingredients could be used on the traceability of natural sourced dyestuffs. These results are related to the index ingredient consistency, standardization, and reproducibility of natural dyed products including such as yarns, fabrics, garments, and so on. Therefore, the present study was demonstrated that in order to determine the conformity assessment system for the satisfaction of all stakeholders, the offering of information on the origin, manufacturing process, and index ingredient content of natural dyes should be prioritized.

• 디자인학연구
• /
• 제20권
• /
• pp.211-217
• /
• 1997

천연염색은 인공염료로 인한 환경오염으로부터 자연을 보호하고, 천연 염색된 섬유는 해충으로 인한 인체의 피해를 막아주어 의복, 침구 류로 개발 가능하며, 또한 색상도 중간계열이 많아 자연스런 이미지를 연출 할 수 있다. 본 연구는 값싸고, 쉽게 구할 수 있는 천연염색 재료를 다양한 색상으로 개발 할 수 있어 고부가가치를 지닌 제품 생산으로 유휴농지의 활용과 함께 농가의 수익을 올릴 수 있다. 전라남도 무안 지방에서 대량으로 생산되는 양파껍질을 다양한 섬유에 염색하여 노랑 색에서 연갈색, 회색계열까지 여러 가지의 색상이 추출된다. 이렇게 염색된 섬유의 세탁, 마찰, 물, 땀, 일광 견뢰 도 측정을 통해 실험하였더니 그 결과 견뢰 도가 전체적으로 우수하여 천연 산업 염색재료로서의 가능성을 발견하였다.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제37권1호
• /
• pp.17-26
• /
• 2013

Market available fermented indigo powders of Indian origin (FI1, FI2), Chinese origin (FC1, FC2), and raw indigo powders of Indian origin (R1, R2) were examined using TLC and HPLC analyses to investigate their pigment contents. TLC analysis gave $R_f$ values of 0.81 and 0.72 for blue and red pigments, respectively. All the powder products and the synthetic and natural indigo standards eluted at 6.9 min and 8.3 min in the HPLC chromatograms, and the peaks showed the ${\lambda}_{max}$ at 610nm and 542nm, representing indigotin and indirubin, respectively. The pigment content calculated based on the area of indigotin and indirubin peaks in the HPLC chromatograms showed that the indigotin content was higher in FC1 and FC2, while FI1 and FI2 had a higher indirubin content. The relative percentage of indirubin was the highest in R2, but the HPLC peak intensity was quite low. Despite the higher indigotin content in FC1 and FC2, cotton dyed with FI1 and FI2 (versus cotton dyed with FC1 and FC2) showed a higher blue (B) hue, the highest K/S values, and the highest antimicrobial effect.