• Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.594-601
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• 2022

This study evaluated the biological properties of lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) extracts. The EtOAc extract of lemongrass had DPPH, TEAC, and nitric oxide-scavenging activity assay results of 58.06, 44.14, and 41.08% at the concentration of 50, 10, and 50 ㎍/ml, respectively. The EtOAc extract had higher elastase and collagenase inhibitory activities than the 80% MeOH, n-hexane, BuOH, and water extracts and comparable whitening activity toward monophenolase or diphenolase. Also, the EtOAc fraction had higher lipase inhibitory and antimicrobial activities against Cutibacterium acnes among extracts which is known to an important contributor to the progression of inflammatory acne vulgaris, and an opportunistic pathogen present in human skin. Total phenolic and flavonoid concentrations in the EtOAc extract were 132.31 mg CAE/g extract and 104.50 mg NE/g extract, respectively. Biologically active compounds in lemongrass extracts were analyzed by LC-MS. This study confirms that lemongrass extracts have potential use as cosmetic skincare ingredients. Thus, lemongrass can be considered a promising natural source of readily available, low-cost extracts rich in antioxidant, skincare, and antimicrobial compounds that might be suitable for replacing synthetic compounds in the cosmeceutical industry.

• Journal of Digital Convergence
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.365-371
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• 2021

In order to verify the effect of using functional cosmetic ingredients for skin beauty, the composition and content of some phenolic acid and flavonoids in the hot water and 80% methanol extract of Akebia quinata fruit pericarp and seeds were analyzed, and the skin care antioxidant activity was investigated. The results are as follows. Total polyphenol and flavonoid contents were found to be higher in pericarp extract than seed extract in both hot water and 80% methanol extract. In the analysis of the composition and content of phenolic acid and flavonoids, two kinds of phenolic acids were identified in the hot water extract of pericarp, 6 kinds of phenolic acids were identified in the 80% methanol extract, and one kind of flavonoid. Two types of phenolic acids were identified in the hot water and 80% methanol extract of seeds, respectively. DPPH and ABTS radical scavenging activities tended to increase in proportion to the treatment concentration in both hot water and 80% methanol extracts, and antioxidant activity was found to be high. Therefore, from the above results, it was found that the hot water and 80% methanol extract of Akebia quinata fruit pericarp and seeds contained various kinds of phenolic acid and flavonoids, and the antioxidant activity was also high. It is believed to be of value as a natural antioxidant in skin care cosmetic ingredients.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.32 no.3 s.58
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• pp.149-152
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• 2006

Natural safflower oleosomes are small ($1{\sim}3{\mu}m$) spherical shaped "reservoir", inside which the seed stores triglycerides for use as a future energy source. The surface of the oleosome is covered with a high molecular weight ($20{\sim}24$ KDa) oleosin protein which has been demonstrated to have emulsification properties. Traditionally, oleosomes from oil bearing seeds such as safflower were simply crushed to liberate the oil within. Our patented DermaSphere technology allows for the isolation of oleosomes in the intact state. Once isolated, these materials can be used in skin care formulations to deliver the emolliency, occlusivity, and anti-oxidant effects typically associated with safflower oil. However, because of the presence of the emulsifying oleosin protein covering the spherical oil body, oleosomes have self-emulsification property as well as can emulsify other oil phase in typical oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion. The oleosomes can literally serve as the entire non-active portion of the oil phase of a typical skin care product. Most importantly, natural oleosomes can be loaded with other oil-soluble active materials and can therefore be used as delivery systems for improved cosmetic efficacies. Oleosomes can be loaded with various actives, such as fragrances, vitamins, inset repellents, and UV chromophores. The loaded oleosomes can be utilized to either protect the active ingredients within the formulation itself or to allow for control release of those actives over time.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.3
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• pp.259-267
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• 2023

This study was conducted to evaluate physiological activity of flower extract of peony (Paeonia lactiflora Pall.) by hydrolysis and to use it as a valuable cosmetic ingredients. Four cultivar of peony flowers were extracted, and the highest active ingredient contents was selected, and that cultivar was used for hydrolyzing. The results showed that high concentration of hydrochloric acid (HCl) hydrolyzed, and biological hydrolysis using enzymes had no activity. The deglycosylation of peonidin 3,5-diglucoside occurred by hydrolysis. The hydrolysate contains 63.3 ppm of peonidin, a red-colored anthocyanin compound. The antioxidant activity of hydrolysate was compared with extract. The results showed the strong antioxidant activity in hydrolysate (96%) than extract (82%). In addition, hydrolysate of peony flower showed higher inhibitory activity of NO release than extract. UVA assay using fibroblast cell (CCD-986Sk) showed that hydrolysate increased cell viability than extract under UVA exposure. Based on these results, we anticipate that hydrolysate of peony flower can be used a valuable cosmetic ingredient.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.2
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• pp.127-139
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• 2023

In this study, minoxidil, which is well known as a pharmaceutical raw material, and diaminopyrimidine oxide (DAO), which is a cosmetic raw material, were used as active ingredients to evaluate the physical properties of niosomes and compare the skin penetrations of artificial skin. To prepare niosomes of the size of nanoparticles, a high pressure homogenization method was used, and physical properties were evaluated with a zetasizer. The particle size of the noisome including the active ingredient was measured to be 99 to 123 nm according to HLB, and the zeta potential was measured in the range of -60 to -81 mV. Through DSC (differential scanning colorimetry), it was confirmed that minoxidil, a crystalline component, was uniformly dissolved in an amorphous state in niosomes. In order to confirm and compare skin penetration, it was measured by the in vitro Franz diffusion cell method, and the niosome formulation showed 3.4 times higher penetration for minoxidil and 11.1 times higher penetration for DAO than the control gel formulation. In addition, when comparing the skin penetration of minoxidil niosome and DAO niosome, a similar trend was shown, and the penetration amount of DAO was relatively high. The shapes of the niosome formulations with different HLB values were observed using Cryo-TEM, and it was confirmed that vesicles were formed in all of them and that they were intermediate between SUV (small unilamella vesicle) and LUV (large unilamella vesicle). Through this study, minoxidil, an effective drug for hair loss, and DAO, a cosmetic raw material, can be effectively delivered to the skin by encapsulating them in a noisome formulation.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.32 no.4 s.59
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• pp.209-217
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• 2006

Emulsion is a dispersion system among liquids which are not miscible together. There are numerous cosmetic raw materials which have different physicochemical properties. Therefore, emulsion technology is very useful in cosmetics. With the development of emulsifier, several emulsification technologies have been developed. Since HLB method by Griffin in 1950's, PIT method, gel method, and D-phase methods, etc, have been developed. Recently, the application of natural emulsifier and polymeric emulsifier increases in cosmetics in order to achieve enhanced safety and biocompatibility. Besides nano-emulsion, multiple-emulsion, liquid crystal emulsion, and Pickering emulsion have been developed and applied as means of differentiating appearance and texture of products and achieving enhanced delivery of active ingredients. Meanwhile, the application studies of nano-dispersed structural system such as liposome or cubosome are on progress. Liposome is a bi- or multi-lamella layer dispersion system composed of amhiphilic molecules - phospholipids which are main components of plasma membrane. Cubosome also is a nano-sized dispersion system composed of a specific molecule like glyceryl monoloeate derived from natural products. And it has a cubic bicontinuous structure in water due to its unique molecular structure. Incorporating compounds (active materials) into such nano-particles can increase biocompatibility and delivery efficiency of target compounds. Manufacturing process and application of cosmetic emulsions and nano-particles are briefly introduced in this paper.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.50 no.2
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• pp.171-178
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• 2024

In this study, we aimed to determine the various effects of Osmanthus fragrans (O. fragrans) flower extract on the skin in order to utilize it as a cosmetic material. For this purpose, Osmanthus fragrans flower extract (OFFE) of Jeju Island was prepared and used in the experiment. The experiments were evaluated by the quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction (qRT-PCR) and lipid droplet staining assay. First, the OFFE decreased the gene expressions of three representative pro-inflammatory cytokines (IL-8, IL-6, and IL-1α) and an inflammation-related enzyme, PTGS2 induced by poly I:C in epidermal keratinocytes. In addition, the OFFE increased the gene expression levels of collagen (COL1A1) and elastin (ELN) in dermal fibroblasts. Further, the OFFE showed the inhibitory effect in sebum production by linoleic acid in sebocytes. Therefore, from this study, it is expected that OFFE can be used as a natural cosmetic material for anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and sebum inhibitory efficacy.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.5-20
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• 1997

War and poverty depress the consumption of cosmetics, while peace and prosperity encourage their proliferation. With the end of World War II, the US, Europe and Japan witnessed rapid growth of their cosmetic industries. The ending of the Cold War has stimulated the growth of the industry in Eastern Europe. Improved economies, and mass communication are also responsible for the fast growth of the cosmetic industries in many Asian nations. The rapid development of the cosmetic industry in mainland China over the past decade proves that changing economies and political climates can deeply affect the health of our business. In addition to war, economy, political climate and mass communication, factors such as lifestyle, religion, morality and value concepts, can also affect the growth of our industry. Cosmetics are the product of the society. As society and the needs of its people change, cosmetics also evolve with respect to their contents, packaging, distribution, marketing concepts, and emphasis. In many ways, cosmetics mirror our society, reflecting social changes. Until the early 70's, cosmetics in the US were primarily developed for white women. The civil rights movement of the 60's gave birth to ethnic cosmetics, and products designed for African-Americans became popular in the 70's and 80's. The consumerism of the 70's led the FDA to tighten cosmetic regulations, forcing manufacturers to disclose ingredients on their labels. The result was the spread of safety-oriented, "hypoallergenic" cosmetics and more selective use of ingredients. The new ingredient labeling law in Europe is also likely to affect the manner in which development chemists choose ingredients for new products. Environmental pollution, too, can affect cosmetics trends. For example, the concern over ozone depletion in the stratosphere has promoted the consumption of suncare products. Similarly, the popularity of natural cosmetic ingredients, the search of non-animal testing methods, and ecology-conscious cosmetic packaging seen in recent years all reflect the profound influences of our changing world. In the 1980's, a class of efficacy-oriented skin-care products, which the New York Times dubbed "serious" cosmetics, emerged in the US. "Cosmeceuticals" refer to hybrids of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals which have gained importance in the US in the 90's and are quickly spreading world-wide. In spite of regulatory problems, consumer demand and new technologies continue to encourage their development. New classes of cosmeceuticals are emerging to meet the demands of increasingly affluent Asian consumers as we enter the 21st century. as we enter the 21st century.

• Proceedings of the Plant Resources Society of Korea Conference
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• 2018.10a
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• pp.26-27
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• 2018

With entry into force of the Nagoya Protocol to promote the fair sharing of the benefits of accessing and utilizing genetic resources, much support has been given to research on the development of biomaterials and products using domestic natural resources. Conservation and resource-saving of native species became very important through Nagoya Protocol enactment. The trend of cosmetic industry has been shifing from use synthetic chemicals to natural biomaterials, due to the safety regulations on new materials, ban on animal experiments, and expansion of cosmeceuticals range. In addition, functional cosmetic range has been expanded from whitening, wrinkle improvement, and ultraviolet shielding, to hair loss, hair loss alleviation, acne relaxation, and moisturizing of atopic skin, thus causing the activation of research about field of efficacy evaluation on natural biomaterials and commercialization. Chungbuk province is fostering the bio industry as a key industry for regional economic growth. For this purpose, Osong Biotechnology Complex/Ochang Science Industrial Complex in middle area, Jecheon biovalley in northern region, and Chungju Enterprise city have been established, thus playing a pivotal role in Bio innovative cluster in Korea. In particular, it was established the osong cosmetics clinical research support center to develop the cosmetics industry in chungbuk, thereby supporting clinical trials, efficacy evaluations, overseas certification, and overseas market entry in order to advance into the global market. In addition, oriental plants such as astragalus propinquus, schisandra chinensis, eucommia, alpiniae oxyphyllae fructus and biancaea sappan are being actively studied as global cosmetic ingredients through the promotion of various national research and development projects using natural materials in chungbuk province. The chungbuk natural product industry is expected to grow further throughout cosmetics industry development in the future, as companies and research institutes are actively promoting the secure index of effective material in natural products and effective material commercialization.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.48 no.4
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• pp.373-383
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• 2022

Inflammation caused by active oxygen and the resulting barrier damage have been consistently pointed out as the cause of wrinkle formation. In this study, effective index ingredient search and efficacy analysis were performed to verify the value of use as a functional cosmetic material related to antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and skin barrier improvement, and anti-aging for extracts of four types of Eleutherococcus divaricatus var. chiisanensis (ED), Eleutherococcus senticosus (EN), Eleutherococcus sessiliflorus (ES), and Eleutherococcus sieboldianus (EI) belonging to the Eleutherococcus genus. To identify the effective index composition, the content of the ingredients was measured by high-performance liquid chromatography. The content of eleutheroside E and chlorogenic acid was the highest in ED among the Eleutherococcus genus. As for anti-oxidant activity, DPPH radical scavenging activity was the highest in ED. In anti-inflammatory effects, ED extracts inhibited nitric oxide generation in inflammatory macrophage cells due to lipopolysaccharide by 40% at 100 ㎍/mL. In the case of IL-6 inhibition, which is known as a pro-inflammatory cytokine, ED showed 41% inhibition at 100 ㎍/mL. In addition, filaggrin and involucrin, which are skin barrier-related factors, were increased by 2.5 times and 1.6 times, respectively, in 100 ㎍/mL of ED extracts, and as for the collagenase, which is a wrinkle-related factor, ED extract showed 29% efficacy at 100 ㎍/mL. Thus, these result suggested that ED extract, among the four Eleutherococcus genus, can be used as a cosmetic ingredient for suppressing inflammation in the skin, reinforcing the skin barrier, and reducing wrinkles.