• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.1-8
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• 2002

This article is to study the ancient Korean make-up based on ancient men's and women's facial decoration. The adornment is mainly about make-up, but I didn't employ make-up in this article on the ground that it isn't an appropriate concept in men's case. The study on the ancient Korean make-up has been conducted on the basis of Goguryeo mural paintings excavated in the tombs. Contrary to the Baekje and the Silla Kingdoms, Goguryeo women's make-up carne to fashion like China. The Goguryeo mural paintings depicted women's make-up which painted their faces white and lined on the eyebrows to make them raise toward their foreheads after removing their own eyebrows. They outlined their mouths smaller than their own and, in some occasions, applied make-up differently on the upper lip and the lower lip. As the time passed by, women applied the blusher, which attests to the fact that make-up of those days was considerably developed. Unlike women, men didn't put on cosmetics but they grew beard as a symbol of adults. The beard had a diversity in shape such as goat-shaped and fan-shaped beards. It can be understood that women's make-up was applied as a manifestation of adults like men's growing beards.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.7
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• pp.778-789
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• 2012

The characteristics of ancient gagye (the cubic hair style which added wigs or other materials to hair) that appeared in mural paintings were compared between Pyongyang and Jian in Goguryeo and the midlands, the northwest region, and the northeast region in China for the same period (Han to Weijin, and Northern and Southern Dynasties). Gagye in Korea and China was classified into circle type, hat type, high-bun type, and multi-bun type; in addition, Han elements, northern race elements, Goguryeo elements, and uniqueness were compared and analyzed according to regional distribution, trend periods, and style characteristics. The Han elements of ancient gagye in Korea and China appeared in the hat type, the high-bun type, and accessories that left the hair down. The northern race elements were found in the circle type and multi-bun type. The uniqueness of Goguryeo elements included a circle from the circle type, a triangle style from the hat type, an up-do style from the high burn type, and simplified hair accessories.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.7
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• pp.55-62
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• 2004

Research into the ancient dyeing and weaving culture is of critical importance to the fact that they constitute an integral part of the Korean costume. Due to the absence of the originals reflecting ancient costume cultures, it is difficult to figure out what the dyeing and weaving culture was like in ancient times. Because of limited visual materials available from the wall paintings of ancient tombs, studies conducted so far concerning the costume culture for the Goguryeo have focused on visual elements such as shape, structure, and type. As a result, research into ancient Korean dyeing and weaving cultures hasn't been properly made. Thanks to the presence of both some dyeing fabric originals from Goguryeo's neighboring countries and some visual materials like the wall paintings of the Goguryeo, it may be possible to obtain some clues to the dyeing and weaving culture. The dotted Pattern costumes were selected such as Muyongchong, No. 1 Jangcheon Tomb, Gakjeochong, Samsilchong, Ssangyeongchong, Susanri Tomb. According to a book titled ‘Hanwon’, the Goguryeo people manufactured fabrics in such a way that resist-dyed spots produced elaborate patterns over the purple fabric. It can be safely said that such dot patterns were produced by means of dyeing rather than weaving, because identical patterns aren’t well produced by means of painting and embroidery. Considering Goguryeo’s natural features, the dot patterns mentioned in historical literatures are thought to have been produced using animal’s skin. However, there is highest possibility that the dot Patterns were Produced using tie-resist dyeing or wax-resist dyeing techniques. With respect to the dyeing and weaving culture for the Goguryeo, one must refer to neighboring countries’ dyeing and weaving environments, given that the Goguryeo had engaged substantial cultural exchanges with China.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.3
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• pp.10-25
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• 2010

The culture of the play of Korean ancient times is well described in the mural painting of Goguryeo. The example is people appearing in the play painting of performance, dance, hunting, and acrobatics out of 20 mural painting of genre. Their costume is broadly classified into performance, dance, hunting, and acrobatic costume and can be subdivided according to the types of costume. First, the head gear of play costume reflected the formality and social conditions of play. In the performance and hunting costume, all performers wore gwanmo(official hats), which seemed to make it a rule to wear gwanmo. Gwanmo was borrowed intactly from Goguryeo without any changes or decorations, which showed that the status symbolism of head gear was applied intactly to play costume. Second, the play costume of Goguryeo enhanced efficiency by blending daily costume with elements and decorations needed for play performance. Specifically the change of length was prominent: the short sleeves of jeogori(traditional blouse), the long sleeves of dance costume, and fastening below the knee or putting into the long shoes to shorten the length of baji(traditional pants). Finally, as it is well known that there was some differences in the expression modes of daily clothes in Goguryeo between Tonggu and Pyeongyang. Similarly, play costume tried to change costume according to the subject of play but maintained the locality and peculiarity of Goguryeo costume. Although performance costume showed many local differences, it also had similarity and peculiarity. In dance costume, long sleeves and patterns which frequently appeared in the Tonggu area reappeared in the Pyeongyang.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.6
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• pp.72-81
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to develop geometric patterns which can be reinterpreted in a modern sense and textile designs which can be commercialized in the mural painting of Goguryeo Dynasty's tomb. Of 42 tombs where genres and portraits could be observed, the costume style of Goguryeo dynasty could be mainly observed in the tombs built in the 4th and 5th centuries. Since geometric patterns found in the portrait could be represented in a modern sense, this study was intended to develop the patterns of a necktie which is one of cultural products by applying geometric patterns in the mural painting of Goguryeo Dynasty's tomb in the 5th century with many patterns distributed. The scope of patterns was limited to a square, a triangle, a circle, and a diagonal line which were the basic of geometric patterns found in the mural painting. The methods of study were literature review and empirical study. Adobe Photoshop CS3 was used to edit geometric patterns found in the mural painting of Goguryeo Dynasty's tomb in the 5th century. By extracting a square(${\square}$), a triangle(${\vartriangle}$), a circle(${\bigcirc}$), and a diagonal line(${\diagdown}$) from edited images, predicted images were proposed before products were made. Finally textile designs were made through the simulation of edited design patterns in the necktie and handkerchief. This study will contribute to the positive effects on the development of cultural product designs applying the characteristic of geometric patterns and the construction of Korean image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.3
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• pp.32-46
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to propose a solution for Goguryeo costume and its materials, colors, patterns, and accessories, which have not been dealt with in precedent studies and were treated as irrelevant subjects. The specific object of reconstruction with identification from the historical viewpoint is noble woman's costume(Yu and Gun) on the mural paintings of Jang-Cheon No.1 tomb in Jip-An province. As above, the reconstruction process of Yu(Jacket) and Gun(Skirt) worn by noble woman as depicted on the mural painting of the Baek-Hee-Gi-Ak-Do(百戱伎樂圖) in Jang-Cheon No.1 ancient tomb is suggested in this study. The most important issue for consideration was how to represent and exhibit it so that it resembles the mural painting as closely as possible. And the problems that arose at the time were the ratio and silhouette, which revealed disparities between the one on the mural painting and the costumes reproduced with identification from a historical viewpoint. The most difficult aspect of this work was due to the fact that the actual mural paintings were not available for verification. Therefore accuracy on details such as structure, materials, colors, patterns and accessory were difficult to obtain. So a further analysis of patterns, silhouettes, materials and colors are required for the precise representation of costume and dress on the mural painting.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.54-68
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• 2006

Suhainmyuldo (樹下人物圖) is a type of picture which expresses a person under the tree and is known to be brought to the Korean Peninsula from the Middle Asia. The origin of this kind of expression is assumed to be from Iykshini (or Iygsha), the fairy of tree, in India and the 'Tree of Life' in Western Asia which influenced on the craft art design of Chinese art. However, Chinese art had already developed the motif of this kind in its unique way; for example, Jookrimchilhundo (竹林七賢圖: seven wise men in bamboo forest) in the Six Dynasty. There are only two items of female dress and its ornament from the 4th to 6th century Suhainmyuldo of the Goguryeo ancient tomb mural: one from the Jangchun Tomb No. 1 in which a female figure is portrayed as a part of living genre painting and the other from the Anahk Tomb No. 1 with seven female figures in a painting which is one of the earliest Suhainmyuldos, presumably from the 4th century. These two paintings must be considered in parallel with the origin of Suhainmyuldo. The mountain wizard's dress and Men's dress and its ornament in Suhainmyuldo from the 4th to the late 6th century Goguryeo ancient tomb is mostly joint adjust in which its collar is connected by a line and almost all the wizards are wearing Sang (upper garment). Most mountain wizards are wearing black feather shaped jackets and upper garments. One noticeable observation is that the mountain wizards of Mooyongchong, Tongu Ohgoibun Nos. 4 and 5 are completely different from one another in terms of ways to dress each wizard's official hats and shoes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.1 s.91
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• pp.113-128
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• 2005

To find our own individuality, there must be an active study on jeogori which is an unexplored field. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to consider artistic beauty and predominance of jeogori and recognize it as a precious culture, and also encourage interest about traditions. The range of this study is ancient times to Chosun dynasty, and in this study which will be the first part, the range is till the era of the Three Kingdoms. The study about jeogori is based on mural paintings of Goguryeo burial mounds, clay dolls and remains during Shilla, Beakjae, and United-shilla era. The contents of this study is 1. research the origin of jeogori's detail structures and changes of the form, 2. analyze the form and structure of the jeogori in each era, and therefore 3. find the predominance of Goguryeo costume by considering functional and design aspects. Therefore the conclusion of this study about the era of the Three Kingdoms are First, jeogori of the three kingdom era were developed from ancient times caftan style which Korea, China and Japan wore all together. Second, the structure of the jeogori during the Three Kingdom are ryeongeum, gil, somae and seon. Third, there is a special line that starts from the neckline and ends at the hem line which should be called ryeongeum in my opinion. Forth, while researching Goguryeo murals there were both left and right sided open jeogori. therefore, I would like to set up a new theory that during the ancient times to Three Kingdom era, not did China's clothing effected the Korean costume but the costume in east asia shared their forms all together.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.28-38
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• 2008

Balhae was an ancient Korean kingdom that existed almost 1,300 years ago. It was a dynamic time in the Korean history when the national strength was building up in terms of politics, economy and culture, thereby called as "Haedongseongguk, the powerhouse in the East". Balhae had dominated parts of Manchuria and the northern part of the Korean peninsula between the late 7th century and the 10th century, occupying the center stage of the northern Korean history. It serves as a window to the East Asia in the present as well as in the past. Yet, due to its geography spanning from the North Korea to Kilin Province of China to part of Heilongjiang Province and to the Littoral Province of Siberia, Balhae has been the center of historical disputes among neighboring countries that insist it is part of each of their own history. China argues that it was a prefecture of the Tang Dynasty, established by the Mohe, not a successor to Goguryeo, which is a China-oriented viewpoint of history. In addition, Russia recognizes Balhae as their first-ever medieval feudal state since the Littoral Province is now under their sovereignty. Therefore, the restoration of Balhae history is in line with the veritable establishment of the ancient Korean history. For this, it is necessary to embrace inter-disciplinary achievements and to continue efforts to adopt them rather than to blame the shortage of historical documents and the difficulty of the excavation of relics. If fashion is "a visual symbol" of our society, beauty culture serve as a mirror to reflect our civilization and culture directly or indirectly. Still, it is not easy to draw similarities by analyzing and comparing the attributes of various cultures and civilizations party because the essence of culture lies in diversity. Nevertheless, it is believed that cultural liaison as well as geographical liaison can be a medium to compensate for the limits of the foreign exchange history of Southeast Asia in proving the relationship between Goguryeo and Balhae, by examining and speculating beauty culture that reflect their period. It was confirmed by various documents regarding Goguryeo out of relics, historical sites and documents. Mural paintings showed how the people of Balhae wore and accessorized themselves. They also allowed us to speculate their way of living. As the contemporary historians can assert that Balhae is part of the Korean history thanks to the realism scholars in the late Joseon Dynasty, who rediscovered the Balhae history and conducted practical researches, it is expected that researchers who study beauty culture contribute to completing the restoration of the Balhae history by thoroughly examining our history, costume and beauty culture.