• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.36
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• pp.239-262
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• 1998

The pursuit of freedom by the individual--desire to be liberated from all forms of restrictions-- is one of the defining character-istic of the modern society. As costume is, in part, a product of the spirit of the times, it was only natural that this desire for freedom would find its expression in modern costume as well. Among various forms of restrictions, differentiaton by sex has placed one of the most significant binding influences on individual behavior. From early times, the dichotomous division by sex was incorporated into the disign of costume, and the traditional differestriction of costume by sex imposed a significant restriction on the background,“the modern androhynous look”was born as a by-product of the sexual liberation movement in the second half of the 20th century, based on the concept of the individual as a complete human being rather than as a member exclusively of either the male or the female sex. This paper seeks to examine the androgynous look within a coherent theoretical frame-work, and explore new design possibilities by analyzing and understanding the visual characteristics of the androgynous look. In addition, this paper seeks to define the functional aspects of the androgynous look based on the premise that costume is an embodiment of the spirit of the times. As for research methodology, both theoretical and historical methods are employed. Through a theoretical examination of historical documents, the meaning of the androgynous look is explored from various angles, and order to examine its place in modern fashion, an-drogynous styles are categorized and system atically analyzed. The main findings of the paper can be summarized as follows : 1. Androgyny is a compound word consisting of“andro-”(meaning man) and“gyn-”(meaning woman). In modern times, this word has been associated with the socio-cultural aspect of gender rather than the physical or physiological aspect with the pshchological characteristics of the male and female sexes. Androgynous styles also appear in fashion and general arts such as drama, film, dance, and music. In fashion, the androgynous look, represented by the visual superimposition of “masculine”and “faminine”elements, has emerged as a major element of the 20th-century costume, and has gained broad acceptance among those free spirits wishing to be liberated from the conventional conceptions of male clothing, and the unisex look. 3. The androgynous look in modern fashion reflects the spirit of the 20th century society and culture, and performs various functions as follows : expression of fun, change in gender roles, expression of the inner consciousness, and pursuit of the ideal human type.

• Trans-
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• v.1
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• pp.1-19
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• 2016

Arts have changed continuously reflecting the times with the political atmosphere and social systems. As political, economic, and social big changes have occurred since World War II, antihistorical tendencies rejecting modernism in the early 20th century have come to appear in culture and arts as well. With these social changes, radical, avant-garde and artistic tendencies with strong experimental spirits, which rejected modernism took place especially in American dancing world. Trends of improvised elements and experimental trials were dominated discovering expressions of new movements in intentions and expressions of works. The purpose of this study is to investigate the effects on choreographic forms of modern dance until today by exploring choreographic characteristics of this postmodernism. To examine post-modernist inclinations in works, Trisha Brown who led American post-modern dance stressed dance for expressions of movements in themselves and pure movements by actively accepting into dance works American social flows which played a major role in postmodernism starting from 1960s. American modern dancers considered body in itself as important one and any emotional expressions and individual sensitivity is excluded as their physical expressions are factual, realistic, and due to their movements. They imprinted dance as valuable art by recreating ordinary behaviors into dance, using space excellently and forming experimental dance shapes. Therefore, it can be said that through analyzing brown's works, we proposed a new direction getting out of limits of arts and provided a direction of essential dance alt to movements of modern dance and choreographic shapes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.60-72
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• 2008

A midst the tendency in an attempt to rehabilitate the coexistence of values in Oriental and Western cultures, along with centripetal attention through reincarnation of the Oriental culture, the modem fashion trend is also inclusive of such Oriental flavors even in the opposite Western fashion icons with an outlook for futuristic alternative. In this regard the study is to investigate the Oriental Characteristics shown in the contemporary fashion in a more profound and right manner by evaluating its spirituality and formativeness through analytical survey on preliminary literatures, whose key words are as follows; Fist, heterogeneity inclusive of the Oriental comprehensiveness through non-periodic chaos; second, imperfection in pursue of perfection through non-perfection; third, asymmetry caused by polarized historicity together with agility in the Oriental costumes; fourth, simplicity bridging into religious naught, and; fifth, spatial comfortablity shrouded by loose design. As a result, the study demonstrates that Oriental sensitivity implicative at the modem fashion, prior to its formativeness, shed out a clue of the Oriental profound spirits in its fashion style.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.37-50
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• 2004

Presentation is the way of revealing regionality that is hidden into the inner world. The expression of regionality has to be based on the origin and at the same time created newness as always suitable for the present through combination of 'familiarity' and 'unfamiliarity'. Regionality that has been maintained even under the application modern trends, spirits, technologies and materials should be now disclosed. Creating new forms that reflect regionality is possible only when a keen sense(emotion) always focusing on the essence of the earth works together with foresight(imaginative power) clarifying global pattern changes, under high tensions between both of them. Kim Su-Keun succeeded in reinterpreting traditional spaces, but failed in communicating patterns of life, ultimately revealing stiffness with no tension and no creativity. Kim Jung-Up could not draw out a whole meaning of relations among traditional fragments or relations between them and the present. He only borrowed such fragments from the view of formative art. For 'disclosed abstract', 'familiarity' and 'unfamiliarity' are repeated circularly and cope with pattern changes, continuously creating new forms and showing unity as a complete calmness(rest). In "YangDuk Catholic Church" by Kim Su-Keun provides a simultaneous reactivation of various images through continuous cross-weaving rather than being inclined to either the earth or the world. Based on the technique of 'disclosed abstract', "YangDuk Catholic Church" created a new form and space never seen before.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.127-144
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• 2005

The aim of this study is to find out the symbol of clothing decorations in Elsa Schiaparalli's design works and there are four major points due to the aim of this study. Firstly, a fantasy is represented through Surrealistic Arts which creates mysterious, secrete, and surprising spirits. In Surrealistic Arts, the fashion of schiaparelli demonstrates a fantasy spirit by using the methods like metaphor, transformation, and re-positioning. Secondly, In Surrealistic paintings, normally double image or different image from symbol immanent were expressed. However, Elsa Schiaparelli used double and multi-image decorations instead that has well-organized formative effect. The mixture of double images can be separated as symbolic mixture, design mixture and expressive mixture. Thirdly, the body parts has represented symbolism and sensuality in Surrealism Arts. Elsa Schiaparelli has demonstrated the expression of modern clothing as passionate, desirable, and powerful. This is the reason why her designs were absolutely different from the previous sihouette-focused clothing. Fourth, there are lots of intentional decoration that are different from actual images, such as transformation, exaggeration, minimization and repettion, as well as, re-location, re-arrangement, line-up arrangement, collage and odd materials.

• SUVANNABHUMI
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.161-191
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• 2014

The entry of the logging industry in the once heavily forested riverine middle Agusan Valley where aboriginal Manobos live meant the entry of the material practice of wage labor into this out-of-the-way place. Wage labor converted the once relatively isolated, subsistence animist Manobos into laborers of the expanding capitalist regime. A symptom of modernity, this wage labor also accompanied the coming of Visayan settlers (also loggers paid by wage) who introduced indigenous Manobos the compadrazgo social relationship. This friendly relationship across ethnic identities legitimated social ties and is a social material practice represented in recent bilingual Manobo possession rituals where the Visayan spirit is incarnated along with Manobo spirits. To understand the idea behind spirit embodiment, I explore Manobo ritual as mimesis or poeisis. This representation is shaped by concrete material realities as much as these realities, in turn, are reconfigured by ritual practice. In the older Manobo cosmology, which is based on subsistence economy and dependent on the forest and rivers, individuals have an externalized self (as manifest in the idea of twin soul), in which the inner vital principle is co-extensive with a spirit double in cosmos. Manobos imitate the perceived workings of nature in ritual so as to control them in times of illnesses. In contrast, the mimesis of the Visayan spirit is based on a different political economic set up with its attendant asymmetrical interpersonal relationship. By symbolically representing the Visayan patron as friend, Manobos are able to negotiate the predicament of their subalternity in local modernity.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.48-58
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to analyze four separate elements-sublime beauty, elegant beauty, mysticism, ornament-which appeared in materials, patterns, colors, silhouettes, details, and accessories, laying stress on luxurious, brilliant, mysterious feelings on Gorgeous Images appeared as trend theme of modern fashion by mixing religious mysticism of the Byzantine Empire. Mysticism element is using the effect of splendid and gorgeous colors from the Orient rather than forms. And a philosophy of abundant colors in mosaics, which are seen in art forms such as architecture, paintings, etc., shows that it creates some visual rooms for religious spirits. Influenced by the fashion of the Greco-Roman style, the elegant beauty element is expressing abundant comfort and elegant feminine lines that are from creases, and it is also emphasizing natural beauty which seems to slip down by displaying the splendid images of Gorgeous as drapes that fit a body. Ornament element was reflecting an inspiration from the splendid and brilliant culture of religion in the Byzantine Age. Therefore, it was appeared as a style filling the whole with bulky silks, splendid ornamental materials embroidered in gold or silver thread, the complicated geometric patterns that are two-dimensional and dignified, and so on. It was decorated with crosses which represent Christianity as a motif, and also it emphasized the splendor of the Byzantine and dazzling splendid images of Gorgeous by using accessaries decorated with various jewels. The elements of sublime beauty are showing the beauty adding humble and majestic images to it as designs sought by spiritual values or intrinsic values. Those designs, so to speak, have pretense which does not allow to expose a body and plain pure feeling, so that they are showing some abstinent styles in a solemn atmosphere, with most details removed. We can say the Fashion Theme appearing in Modern Times is the result from representing by combining various factors of the times with formative beauty through creative works for aesthetic expression. The moderners are requiring new designs which is possible to meet their individualities, in addition to their outstanding fashion senses. From this point of view, a variety of textiles, patterns, and colors in the Byzantine have a great meaning to fulfill people's various desires as interesting elements.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.16 no.8
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• pp.484-492
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• 2016

Role of music in an image can be divided into a supplementary function to express narrative of image and an independent function to become the subject of music and to lead the image. To perceive sound through hearing and then, to make it visualized is called visual music. Since the 19th century, image synchronization of music through colored hearing has been continuously attempted by artists in their works. Also in the 20th century, many artists could attempt time-wise concept of movement passing the bounds of three-dimensional expression due to development of cinema. In such a process, artists with strong experimental spirits inferred correlation between sound and image and then, pioneered new genre of visual music. As a result, the times are being changed from those of listening to those of watching, and various works are being produced by experimental attempt of various music and images. This thesis aims to investigate aesthetic characteristics of modern visual music and then, to conduct comparative analysis on how visual music using colors are utilized in diversified fields such as movie, animation, music video and media art.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.107
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• pp.1-17
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• 2006

This study purposed to examine Korean people's white clothes custom historically and to explain the aesthetic consciousness latent in the custom. Korean people preferred white clothes, even up to foreigners called them White-clad folk. Not only as in old historical literatures, but also in Soo-suh, Shin-Dang-suh including Sam-Kuk-Ji in China, white clothes were a real symbol to Korean people, ranging chronically far back to the age of ancient tribal countries, Sam-Kuk Period through Koryo Dynasty and even to modern age near the end of Chosun Dynasty, wearing with pleasure regardless of age, sex or social position. Even King himself in Koryo Dynasty is said to have worn white clothes when he was out of official hours. During the Koryo and Chosun Dynasty, white clothes were sometimes prohibited for various reasons including conflicts with the theories of yin-yang and the five elements but such regulations were not effective. To Korean people, white clothes were ordinary people's everyday dress as well as noble people's plain suits, saints' uniforms with religious meanings, ceremonial costumes, funeral garments, etc. The various uses show that white clothes have been worn by many people. The unique custom that a People have worn white clothes consistently for such a long time may contain very deep symbolic meanings representing the people's sentiments and spirits. The present study understood that the meanings come from religious sacredness, magical wish for brightness, the pursuit of purity originating from the people's national traits, assimilation with nature and the will to attain whole ascetic personality. Aesthetic attitudes based on aesthetic values summed up as sacredness, brightness, purity, assimilation with nature, asceticism, etc. are the aesthetic consciousness pursued by Koreans through their white clothes. For Koreans, white color is the origin of their color sense coming from primitive religions such as worshipping the sun and the heaven. In this way, Korean people's preference for white clothes began with primitive religions, was mixed with various social, cultural and religious influences and finally was settled as their durable spirit, symbol and beauty.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Library and Information Science
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• v.27
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• pp.99-124
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• 1994

This study examines the establishment of Sea-po (서포) in the opening period of Korea at the end of the 19th century. The role they played, the particular situations and their geographical characteristics are researched, The earliest sea-po was Koh-je-hong sea-po, which was established in Tae­kwang-kyo at the end of 1880s. Around 1905, a specialised book distribution system was set up with establishement of Chu-han-yung book store, Kim-sang-man book store, Jesuit book store, Tae-dong su-si, Kae-myung sea-kwan, Tong-wha seo-kwan. The owners of the seo-pos were pioneers in introducing modern culture with nationalistic consciousness, although they were primarily businessmen and their social origins varied. The primary role of seo-pos was selling a variety of books but some combined printing and publication of books as well. It seems that publication business took roots around 1908, though it is difficult to know the accurate dates of first attempts. Some sea-pas offered book rental services for poor people who could not easily afford to purchase books. A certain amount of deposit had to be paid to benefit from the services. Jesuit Bookstore in Pyungyang had a library facility with a large stock or books in the same building open to public for free. These sea-pas started mainly in Seoul and Pyungyang, which were traditional centers for economic and cultural affairs. Early introduction of foreign cultures and commercial developments in these areas contributed to the establishment of sea-pos. The sea-po which took charge of book distribution in the provinces was set up around 1906. One of the important findings of this study is that the geographical distribution of sea-po shows the following three characteristics. First is that the area such as Seoul, Taegu and Chunju were the traditional centers of publishing culture from which Pang­gak-bon(방각본) emerged. Second characteristic is Pyungyang and the surrounding Pyungbuk province, and harbors like Inchon and Pusan, which had the benefits of early spread of modem cultures. Third characteristic is Kaesung and the surrounding Hwanghae province which bridged Pyungyang and Seoul. The reception of foreign cultures stimulated the commercial spirits traditionally attributed to Kaesung to establish sea-pas most actively.