• 복식
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• 제38권
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• pp.51-72
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• 1998

Futurists objected the existent style, that is the conventional fashion, and took part in these disciplines of fashion to make clothes the instruments being able to represent the individuality. Giacomo Balla and fortunato Depero, pain-ters who in 1915 were to work with Diaghilev's company, were the first to see clothing as a dynamic interfaced between th body and the atmosphere, between physical gestures and the urban context, which could be translated into encounters between forms and colours, volumes and architecture. For them, clothing began to exist as an object and an event, something to be removed from a mainly static conception and made mobile, active. The interaction between movement and clothing was based on the relativity of perception : the appearance and disappearance of the body produced points without dimension or duration which served, as Balla wrote in the Futurist Mnaifesto of Men's Clothing to“renew incessantly the enjoyment and impetuous movement of the body”. The historical achievement in the effort for the reformation of Futurist, Art to Wear. First, for Futurist, clothing is removed from a static conception and focused on dynamics. Second, Balla used asymmetry in men's clothing. Moreover he supposed dynamic men's clothes by using optical intersection. Third, the after image of Chronophotograph represented rapidity. This rhythmic expression is the fore-runner in Optical and Kinetic Art of Visual Art. Fourth, Futurist emphasized flexibility in fashion. They aimed to create‘Clothing Machines’whose parts would interact to aceelerate the real and virtual, inner and outer movement of the human being. Fifth, the variety and short life of cutting skills and colors are focused and‘Fast Substance’in fashion is admitted by Futurists. Futurist concern with clothing was not lim-ited its appearance in terms of cut and colour. What important was also the way it appeared and disappeared according to fashion. It was a“fast substance”, able to reflect rapid, sudden changes of social and aesthetic taste. To reach to the aim of internationalization, Gesamtkunstwerk in our Art to Wear, it is extremely meaningful to examine art fashion which is created under the conception of Gesamtkunstwerk production of avang garde artist in the early 20th century and look at formative conscious of truth, goodess and beauty synthetically which they faced on their works of art.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제4권
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• pp.21-45
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• 2004

The rapid development of science technology during the 20th century has greatly lowered the hours for labour, thus giving members of society extra time for leisure. With the increasement of leisure activities, sports casual wear has become one of the foremost leading items in the fashion industry, and among such sports casual, down wear has become the F/W season's most popular item. Because it generates high profits, many recognize it as a very important factor in lady's wear. Since the 1990's, down wear was widely applied to various sections of lady's, men's, and children's wear, and it has ceased to be limited to sports casual only. The purpose of this study was to fully understand the characteristics of down, and to develop crossover garments design desired not only in the F/W season but also the S/S season. It has been taken into consideration that many restrictions in sewing technique and material selection in manufacturing down as a fashion product exist when choosing a means of manufacture. That was why this study focused on the history and characteristics of down while analysing the works of domestic and foreign designers to concretely applicate them in fashion products. This study has divided the resulting down wear products according to consumer preference： vest, jacket, coat, one-piece, and skirt to applicate design manufacture of lady's wear in general, while designing and making artistically expressed down wear. There were 48 works developed as a result of this study, of which 41 were ready-to-wear, and the remaining 7 works were creative art wear.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.787-796
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• 2013

This study is an initial report of actual wearing conditions and attitude based on a survey of wearing outdoor wear for men and women in their 30s to 50s who enjoy daily leisure sport activities. Most middle-aged men and women who enjoy outdoor activities were interested in new trends and clothing styles. The greatest area of interest was health(42.9%), followed by leisure and sports(38.4%); in addition, hiking(40.2%) was the most popular outdoor activity. The majority of subjects participated in outdoor activities for over 5 years(34.4%). The highest frequency of outdoor activities was conducted once or twice a month, and it took one to three hours for each activity. Nearly half of the respondents( 47.7%) answered that the goal of outdoor activities was to maintain their health. Subjects in their 40s and 50s were more equipped in their outdoor activities and in their 50s made ongoing investments despite costs. When wearing clothing, the subjects placed a priority on design(in the case of subjects in their 30s) and comfort(for subjects in their 40s and 50s). This survey shows that the subjects emphasized access to outdoor wear and equipment. In all age groups, the biggest complaint about outdoor wear was price; in addition, they were unsatisfied with the length and the sleeves of outdoor jackets. Outdoor wear will draw a positive attention for its practical use of clothing if it is developed according to consumer demands based on functionality for outdoor activities and convenience in daily life.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권2호
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• pp.276-287
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• 2009

Apparel professionals need to understand the customer to effectively develop, select, and promote apparel products. Analysis of consumer preferences can help in the creative design process. Therefore the purpose of this study was to identify consumer preference by gender in two segmented group; $20{\sim}34$ aged group and $35{\sim}49$ aged group toward men's apparel consumers, considering target customers and female influences on men's wear purchasing. We used questionnaires that were distributed to 600 males and females aged in their 20s to 40s, using stratified sampling method. Only 547 reliable questionnaires were selected for statistical analysis. Chi-Square and t-test were used to analyze the data, using SPSS program. We obtained the following results: 1. We found that there was a significant association between segmented age group and the preference of men's jacket style. Specially $20{\sim}34$ aged group had a significant association with styles of formal jacket, casual t-shirts, casual pants, but $35{\sim}49$ aged group had formal pants style. Looking at the general percentage, semi-formal jacket, slim fit t shirt, straight casual pants were the most favored styles. 2. Age has an significant effect on the preferences of formal menswear fabric patterns and shirt patterns. The results of t-test showed that there found to be significant by gender in character and check pattern of shirts. 3. In design details, the number of button had not significance by gender, and 2 buttons was th most favored by both age groups. The number of gather at the waist had an significant association in $34{\sim}49$ age group. $20{\sim}34$ age group prefer high waist of pants, while $35{\sim}49$ age group prefer low waist of pants. 4. For on time outfit, formal wear and tie ensemble was the most favored with significant difference by age and gender. Formal wear and no tie ensemble favored by about one third of respondents, and more favored by the younger group. For off time outfit, casual jacket and casual pants ensemble was the most favored.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권2호
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• pp.207-220
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• 2006

The purpose of the study is to develop the basic pattern of casual jacket for men aged between 25 and 34. Compared to the tailored jackets, casual jackets are designed much more diverse form depending on the target customer, price range and moreover fashion trend. Therefore in order to reduce the cost and time of developing new style, pattern draft from the basic pattern is better approach rather than develop each style form the measurements every time. For men's casual jacket pattern draft, the basic pattern of fit and comfort was developed through following research procedures. 173 men were surveyed about their habit of buying and wearing of casual jackets. MDs and pattern designers of 10 casual wear brands for men were interviewed. As a starting point, 3 different basic patterns were selected. 2 patterns were from the 2 interviewed brands and the last one was the pattern of ESMOD. The 3 patterns were studied by means of comparing measurements and general styling. As a results it was found that the pattern of S brand is featuring I silhouette, the pattern of K brand is featuring H silhouette and the pattern of ESMOD is featuring Y silhouette. The results of wearing test showed that the pattern of S brand is the best among the three. They were to add ease around the chest line and waist line, to relocate the waist line and the break point, to increase the jacket length and upper arm width. The improved pattern was made of polyester for the wearing test. The wearing test showed developed pattern was improved significantly. To verify the use of developed basic pattern, two buttoned single jacket was made.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.304-311
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• 2018

This research used a questionnaire to provide basic data for the design of dressing form that enables the manufacture of senior menswear with an improved fit to match the dissatisfaction with the fit of male suits over the 50s. We used 132 questionnaires as analytical data. The results were: The item 'purchasing method of formal suits' showed that 95.5% purchased ready-to-wear jackets. The 'abdominal obesity type' and 'trunk waist type' had a high frequency of 'complaints about the size of the ready-to-wear jacket'. They choose their suits and wear them directly from the store. It is expected that senior males will complain about ready-to-wear formal suits due to the increase in girth item than normal type due to change of body shape since they consider size to also be important when purchasing suits. The most important part of the body when purchasing suits is the shoulder area, followed by the front width and back width of the fit. As for the degree of recognition of suit size, 38.1% said that they know the size and 'Suit size is hard to understand'. As a result of dissatisfaction with formal dressing, the items of 'Neck wide of get loose', 'Drag line of back neck', 'Not fit of front opening', 'Not fit of shoulder slope' and 'dissatisfaction'. Therefore, it is salient to establish suit fitting system and size system for senior men.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.71-79
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• 1999

The purposes of this study were to 1) identify types and usage levels of production 2) classify apparel manufacturers based on production systems and 3) investigate relationship between characteristics of apparel manufacturers and production system. Apparel manufacturer's characteristics included product line and the number of employees. For this study, the questionnaires were administered to 215 apparel manufacturers in metropolitan area from Feb. to Mar. 1998. Employing a sample of 201, data were analyzed by using factor analysis, descriptive statistics, cluster analysis, discriminant analysis, and multivariate analysis of variance(MANOVA). The following are the results or this study : 1. The production system was identified as three types of production system such as the management centered system, the product centered system and the worker centered system. 2. Based on the three types of the production system, apparel manufacturer were classified into manager centered and product centered groups. 3. With respect to product line, men's wear manufactures were operated the most frequently by manager centered and product centered groups. 3. With respect to product line, men's wear manufacturers were operated the most frequently by management centered system and women's wear manufacturers were operated the most frequently by worker centered system. With respect to the number of employees, apparel manufacturers comprising 5∼19 employees were performed the least frequently worker centered system, while those comprising 50∼99 and 100∼299 employees the least frequently worker centered system.

• 한국컴퓨터정보학회논문지
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• 제24권10호
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• pp.117-127
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• 2019

본 연구에서는 사이즈코리아의 제7차 인체측정조사 자료 중 40-59세 중년 남성의 직접 계측 데이터를 분석하여 전신 체형의 특성을 알아보고, 중년 남성의 전신 체형을 유형화하고자 하였다. 이를 통해 맞음새가 우수한 중년 남성의 의복패턴 제작에 필요한 기초자료를 제공하고자 하였다. 전신 계측자료는 SPSS Ver. 24.0 프로그램으로 분석하였다. 요인은 신체의 수평, 수직, 어깨관련, 앞중심길이, 다리굵기, 어깨처짐 등 6개 요인이 추출되었다. 중년 남성의 전신체형은 3개로 유형화되어 유형1은 둘레는 가늘고 너비는 좁으며, 높이는 낮고 앞중심길이는 짧으며 다리가 얇은 체형이다. 유형 2는 높이는 높고 앞중심길이는 길며, 둘레 및 너비는 보통으로 다리가 굵고 어깨가 처진 체형이다. 유형3은 둘레는 크고 너비는 넓으며 어깨도 넓은 체형으로 앞중심길이는 긴 편이지만 신체높이는 낮고 어깨가 처지지 않은 체형이다. 중년 남성은 복부의 돌출 및 지방축적에 따른 둘레와 두께 항목의 증가가 두드러지므로 이를 반영한 패턴 제작이 필요할 것으로 생각된다.

• 복식
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• 제40권
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• pp.67-80
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• 1998

Being located in the east of the Mediterranean Sea, Cyprus used to play a bridge role of cultural exchanges between the East and the West during period of being occupied. As a consequence the fact that the style of costume might be changed at certain levels during the time is broadly accepted. Basic structure of Cypriot men's clothes during the late of the 19th century to the middle of 20th century is composed of\circled1 baggy trousers(vraka) \circled2 shirt(chemise) \circled3 jacket(ziboune/zibouna) \circled4 waistcoat(yilekko) \circled5 headdress(fez, kourouklin) \circled6 accessories. General composition of women's wear is \circled1 pantaloons(vrandzin) \circled2 shift(poukamiso) \circled3 outer garment(sayia, foustani, Amalia, costume) \circled4 waist kerchief(mandili tis koxas)\circled5 boots(podines)/pumps(goves) \circled6 scarves and accessories. As reviewed above, although men's clothes are still worn on a day to day basis, women's wear continues to exist only for festivals or as a tourist attraction. It was understood that this was an accepted consequence of 20th century modernization and reformation.

• 복식
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• 제58권9호
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• pp.1-17
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• 2008

One of features of fashion in Joseon period is culture of overlapping of several clothes. This culture appeared with Hapbong(合縫:sewing of several clothes as one) at late Joseon period and developed into simpler and more practical fashion culture. Hapbong is mainly identified at men's official uniform such as Jaebok(祭服), Jobok(朝服), Kwanbok(官福), Gugunbok(具軍服), and women's formal dress such as Wonsam(圓衫) and Dangeui(唐衣) which formed several clothes get to be a set. Such fashion was designed to maintain dignity and power while simple to wear. And It has the trace of overlapping visually on the collar, sleeve, breast-tie and others. Hapbong is attributable to thoughts of practical science, post-toadyism, modernization, renovated the system of clothing, and advanced sewing technique.