• 복식
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• 제63권1호
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• pp.135-146
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to investigate the meaning and possible shape of Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun(高麗鴉靑雲袖羅質孫) through the details regarding its color, fabric, and pattern in the $13-14^{th}$ century writings and costume relics. Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun was the summer dress coat that government officials wore during the Jisun feast of Yuan, and it was symbolic of the political strategy of Yuan as well as the excellent Goryeo fabric material, but no relics remain. During this period, Achung (dark blue)was the color that was used to dye silk, dress coats of upper class men, and background fabric of the embroidered official patch. And, the term, Yunsu (cloud sleeves), was probably sleeves with cloud pattern. The most typical cloud pattern in the 13 and the $14^{th}$ century was the 'flowing, gathering-headed cloud'. The Ra(silk gauze) weaving technique of Goryeo was developed rapidly in the $12^{th}$ century, and the quality of the Ra in the late Goryeo was good enough to be used for making the official's dress coat in the golden age of Yuan. According to the characteristic of jisun and man's formal-suit style in the Mongolian-Yuan, the possible styles for Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun can be summarized as follows: a basic Mongolian gown with narrow sleeves and deep crossed diagonal opening, a Mongolian gown with waist pleats, the combination of half sleeved gown and long sleeved Mongolian gown. These styles would be made of delicate Goryeo Ra, cloud patterned sleeves, fabrics dyed in dark blue color, and shawl or embroidered patch ornaments for officials of Yuan, which was more simple than materials for Khan's Jisun to avoid rebellions.

• 감성과학
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2002

개인별 신체 특성을 나타내는 가상피팅모델을 이용하여 제공되는 가상 착용 서비스는 웹을 기반으로 한 인터넷 의류 쇼핑의 흥미를 더해준다. 본 연구의 연구자들은 2000년과 2002년에 개발된 미국의 가상피팅모델과 국내에서 개발되었던 가상피팅모델의 개발 기술의 특성과 변화를 분석하였다. 연구결과는 가상피팅모델의 구축을 위해서는 인체의 치수, 형태, 얼굴의 특징들에 관한 정보 입력이 필요하며, 이때 요구되는 정보는 미국과 한국의 사이트에서 차이가 있음을 밝혔다. 미국의 사이트는 정면이나 측면의 실루엣에 대한 정보의 입력이 요구되는 반면 한국의 사이트는 더 많은 인체 치수 관련 정보를 요구하였다. 2000년에 개발되었던 한국의 가상피팅모델은 길고 좁은 프로포션으로 표현되어 사실적인 표현이 부족하였던 반면 2002년 미국에서 개발한 가상피팅모델은 다양한 인종의 특성을 반영하며, 그래픽 기술의 발전으로 사실적으로 표현된 가상피팅모델을 제공하는 것으로 나타났다.

• 감성과학
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.1-6
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• 2004

본 연구는 동서양 문물 이미지 사진에 대한 여대생의 선호도와 패션잡지에서 의류광고 사진에 등장한 모델의 동서양 국적에 따른 소비자의 긍정적/부정적 인식 정도의 영향을 조사하고자 하였다. 100명의 여학생이 설문에 응답해 주었으며 20개 사진이 자극물로 제시되었다. 자극물은 주택, 실내, 식품, 미인도, 음료수로 하고, 패션 광고사진으로는 남성복 정장, 여성복 정장, 여성복캐주얼, 여성복 속옷, 여성손목시계 등으로 하여 동서양 모델 사진을 각 1점씩 선택하였다. 여대생들은 간식과 미인도에서는 서양이미지보다 동양이미지를 선호하였으나, 패션잡지의 의류광고 사진의 광고에는 모든 경우에서 서양모델이 사용된 경우에 긍정적인 인식정도를 나타냈다. 이러한 사실로서 여대생의 서양이미지에 대한 인식은 긍정적이며 이것은 의류제품 브랜드의 소비자 선호도에 영향을 미칠 것을 추측할 수 있었다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권12호
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• pp.1605-1616
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• 2004

본 연구는 개개인에게 최적 맞음새를 제공하는 남자 맞춤 재킷 소비자들을 대상으로 신체 부위별 치수 및 재킷 치수를 측정하여 여유량을 산출하였고, 또한 여유량 특성을 파악하기 위해 각 여유량을 신체 특성, 연령, 신체 인식정도 및 선호하는 재킷 실루엣별로 비교 분석하였으며 동시에 소비자들이 재킷 전체 맞음새를 고려할 때 중요하게 여기는 부위를 연령 및 체격별로 분석하였다. 신체 치수에 따라 가장 민감하게 여유량이 변화한 부위는 가슴둘레였으며 허리둘레와 엉덩이둘레의 여유량은 신체 치수보다는 재킷 실루엣을 위해 조정되는 부위였다. 신체 치수 다음으로 맞음새와 여유량에 가장 큰 영향을 미치는 요인은 연령이었다. 또한 재킷의 전체 맞음새를 위해 소비자들이 가장 중요하게 여기는 부위는 어깨의 맞음새였으며 특히, 피트되는(fit)스타일을 선호하는 소비자들은 전체적으로 각 부위별, 특히 허리 맞음새에 특별한 관심을 보였다. 자신의 신체에 대한 인식 중 엉덩이에 대한 인식에 따라 가슴둘레, 허리둘레, 엉덩이둘레에서의 선호 맞음새가 달랐다. 또한 뚱뚱하다고 생각하는 소비자들이 오히려 여유가 적은 허리둘레 맞음새를 선호하였으며 이는 허리둘레 여유량을 조정함으로써 전통적인 재킷 실루엣을 유지하기 위한 것으로 해석 할 수 있다. 이상과 같이 각 체격별로, 연령별로 그리고 선호 스타일별로 중요하게 여기는 맞음새 부위와 실제 재킷 부위별 여유량이 달랐으므로 기성 재킷 생산 업체에서는 타겟 체형 및 타겟 연령에 따라 재킷 부위별 여유량과 맞음새 중요 순위 및 그 정도를 달리하여야 소비자 만족도를 높일 수 있을 것이다.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.945-958
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• 2009

This study is to examine the factors affecting success of business withhigh accomplishments in customer recognition and financial aspect in the fashion industry. In addition, through survey on consumers and interviews on industry officials who concerned fashion brand, perceived success factors were compared between consumer and industry groups. This study selected a total of 20 brands, which were 5 brands per 4 categories(e.g., women, men, sports and casual wear), with high customer satisfaction and customer loyalty in consumer's perspective and high revenues, revenue growth, and profit rate in 2004 in a financial perspective. The survey on consumer group and interviews on officials in industry were conducted simultaneously. One thousand respondents were obtained from survey on consumers and 40 respondents were obtained from interviews on industry officials. Multiple regression analysis and t-test were used for data analysis via the SPSS 12.0 program. The result of this study was as following. From a consumer perspective, respondents recognized that both consumer satisfaction and brand revenues were positively related to brand factors of consumer, product and marketing. From an industry's perspective, consumer, product and marketing factors affected consumer satisfaction as a brand success factor. In comparison of perception difference in brand success factors between consumer and industry groups, industry group was more likely to concern about the importance of brand success than consumers. In addition, the consumer group perceived the most highly consumer factor as a brand success factor, followed by product and marketing and external environment factors, while industry group did in order of consumer, marketing, product, and external environment factors, which indicated significant difference in perceptions of the two groups. Through this study on consumer satisfaction to improve positive and amicable buying behavior and comparative analysis on difference of perception of consumers and industry on factorsfor financial ability and revenue increase, the foundation for strategy establishment of brand distinction in fashion industry can be provided.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.19-30
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• 2002

The word 'lace' comes from the Latin, lacium, meaning a knot. There are two broad categories of lace: needlepoint lace and bobbin lace. Lace has enjoyed a multitude of uses, embellishing both liturgical and domestic objects. It has also played a major role in the history of western fashion, adorning the apparel of men as well as women. Lace lappets and cap crowns, cravat ends and veils were made for those who could afford them. Before the end of the sixteen century, more complex techniques were employed. The baroque period, needlepoint lace evolved from the early simple geometric patterns of punto in aria Which enhanced ruffs, to deeply scalloped designs, often referred to as collar lace, and thence to the bold and magnificent relief effects of Venetian gros point. Through the seventeenth century is noted for the infinite variety of its cravat, collar and kerchief, most of them lace trimmed and all artfully contrived for the wearer. The type of sleeve in women's dress reaching just below the elbow, ending in ruffles of lace which was called engageantes. Sometimes the ends of a fichu or headdress decorated of lace. In the nineteenth century, empress Eugenie's love of lace resulted in a marked increase in the use of that lovely, delicate fabrication. It was lavished upon sleeves, hats, capes, and handkerchieves. Entire flounces, parasols, jackets, and shawls of lace were created by skilled lace makers of Europe. By the time this magnificent piece was created, most lace was being produced by machine. Today, the tradition of handmade lace continues, but glorious examples are no longer made. However, the techniques have been taken up and revitalized within the fiber art movement.

• 마케팅과학연구
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.239-248
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• 2010

本文阐述了产业和学术之间的合作项目. 这个合作项目关注美国东北部的一家大型地区连锁百货商店的两个自有品牌服装的营销和产品开发战略发展. 这个项目的目标是通过和学生的想法的合作来振兴产品线. 从而给学生提供真实产业环境中的实践经验. 这个项目中有很多关键者. 在美国东北部的一家私有连锁百货商店为已有的两个自有服装品牌寻求一个学术伙伴. 他们的目标客户是追求休闲, 适中价格的中年消费者. 这个公司想要改变包装和展示的方向, 甚至是产品的设计. 公司的品牌和产品开发部门联系东北一个州立大学的学术部门的教授. 有两位教授认为这个项目非常适合他们的课程-一个是初级的媒介品牌管理课程; 一个是高级的时装产品开发课程. 这些教授认为通过合作项目, 学生在安全的学术学习环境中能进入一个真实的工作场景中在一个多学科协作团队, 提供超出一个学生的能力, 经验和资源优势, 并增加了解决问题的过程中的 "智囊" (Lowman 2000). 这种提高学生的能力目标的方向让每班教师去组织品牌和产品开发类的跨学科团队. 此外, 许多大学都聘请科研和教学的产业伙伴关系, 协作的时间(学期)和环境(教室/实验室)的约束有助于提高学生的知识和对现实世界的经验. 在田纳西大学, 产业服务中心和UT-Knoxville's 工学院和一家公司合作来发展它们美国公司的的设计进步. 本研究中, 因为是和一个自有商标零售品牌, Wickett, Gaskill 和Damhorst's (1999) 指出产品开发和品牌管理团队使用的零售服装产品开发模型. 之所以选择这个框架是因为它从零售这个角度强调了服饰产品开发. 两个班级参与了这个项目: 一个初级品牌管理班级和一个高级时装产品开发班级. 7个团队包括四名学习品牌管理的学生和两名学习产品开发的学生. 这两个课程在同一个学期但是不同的时间. 在学期开始的时候, 每个班级都被介绍给了产业合作伙伴并接受了问题. 一半的团队指定为男士品牌, 另一半是女士品牌. 这些小组负责制定解决问题的方法, 制定自己的工作时间表, 在与业界代表保持接触, 并确保每个小组成员以积极的方式负责任. 这些小组的目标是通过用销售规划进程来计划, 发展和展示一条产品线(遵循Wickett, Gaskill和Damhorst 模型) 并为这条产品线发展新的品牌战略. 这些小组展示了趋势, 色彩, 面料和目标市场调查; 制定一个产品线的草图;编辑了草图, 介绍他们的执行计划书写说明书, 配上合适的模型并最终开发生产样品. 品牌班的学生完成了SWOT分析, 品牌测量研究报告, 品牌心智图和完整综合的营销报告. 这些报告在介绍新产品线时同时发表. 将来如果有更多这样的协作机会而且公司希望同时考虑品牌和产品开发战略, 那么课程应该定在相同的时间, 这样学生有更多的时间在一起讨论时间表和被分配的任务. 像上面的任务, 学生不得不每堂课之外的时间见面. 这使得团队工作变得具有挑战性(Pfaff和Huddleston, 2003). 虽然这项工作的后勤是费时设立和管理, 但教授认为对学生的好处是多种多样的. 根据两堂课的学生的回复, 最重要的好处是和产业专业人士一起工作的机会, 跟进他们的进程, 并看到公司里做决定级别的高层对他们作品的评估. 教员们都感激有一个 "真实的世界" 的案例. 制定的创意和战略扩大和加强了品牌和产品开发两个部门的联系. 通过和来自不同知识领域的学生一起工作并且和产业伙伴联系, 遵守产业活动的框架和时间表, 学生小组在新的环境中完成优秀创新的作品是具有挑战性的. 在产品开发和为 "现实生活" 品牌的品牌工作, 这些品牌都在努力给学生一个机会, 看看他们的课程是如何紧密的与现实世界联系, 以及公司运营中设计和商业方面如何需要创造性, 协作和灵活性. 行业人员对(a)学生的知识水平和深度以及执行力, (b)品牌的新思路的创造性产生了深刻的印象.

• 복식
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• 제63권8호
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• pp.156-170
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• 2013

The purpose of this research is to scrutinize the cyclist's consumer behavior by analyzing the eWOM information search behavior of cycle-wear according to benefits sought and involvement. The research was conducted through an online survey and the respondents were 291 men who wore cycle-wear and searched information via online. The results of this research are as following. First, the benefits sought from wearing cycle apparel are composed of five sub-factors such as, ideal body figure, brand ostentation, comfort ease, personality, and economic feasibility. In addition, the cycle-wear involvement consisted of two sub-factors: cycling involvement and fashion involvement. Second, the eWOM information search behavior of cyclists was different depending on the benefits sought by the cyclists. When the cyclists pursued ideal body figure they searched more information of design and color, while cyclists put more weight on the information of design, color, and brand when they sought brand ostentation. Moreover, the valence and the type of the information were dissimilar depending on the benefits sought. Third, the sub-factors of eWOM information search behavior affected the eWOM effect distinctively. The price information was the only factor that influenced the eWOM effect among the contents of the information. The valence of the information influenced the eWOM effect, and the effect of positive information was stronger than negative information. Additionally, the subjective information also affected the eWOM effect. Lastly, the effect of the benefits sought influencing the eWOM information search behavior varied by the difference of the cycle-wear involvement. For example, when they are both high in the involvement there were various benefits sought affecting the eWOM information search behavior. However, when only the cycling involvement was high, and they pursued personality, the price information was not important to them.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제21권4호
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• pp.27-42
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• 2019

This paper tried a detailed approach to identify the correlation among basic elements that influenced the change of forms of the Po. To this end, the subjects were limited to the clothing from the 15th to the 18th century, which was found in the tombs of the period of Pyeonbokpo. The total number of excavated artifacts measured directly is 6 and other correctly described excavated artifacts for a total of 54 items. Per period and element, the types of collars and Seop were presented by classifying collars in 4 types, and Seop in 3 types. On the basis of the classification, the relics selected in this paper were analyzed considering the appearance, period, and rate per type of each element. The type and the change of forms of each element per period, with the focus on the appearance, were identified and the factors influencing the change of forms per element and the correlation between such factors were investigated. The representative type in the first period included dual collars, dual Seop and the representative type in the second period was characterized by a shawl collar and a dual Seop joining the pieces. The representative type in the third period was characterized by round collars and a short Seop. The elements determining the forms of Po, including collars and Seop, had a correlation to the lapse of time and had been systematically influencing each other. Furthermore, the overall change of form was caused due to the social functions as well as the supplementary function of keeping balance among the elements and accordingly, the change of forms was think characterized per period.

• 복식
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• 제31권
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• pp.145-164
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• 1997

Cinema costume can stimulate the public to synchronize with and replicate what they see in the movies. Especially when the public thinks the stars in the movies . Especially when the public thinks the stars in the movies are beautiful or dramatic the styles of cinema costumes powerfully affect them. Thus cinema costume designers quickey become fashion designers. Edith Head who strongly believed cinema costumes to be an effective means of portraying the Character's personality and psychological make-up was an innovative designer whose costumes manifested this belief. She enhanced the character's individual image and distinction for the public through her artistic design in costumes. She adapted a realistic approach but her costumes invariably produced aesthetic ef-fects. Since the Academy Awards added the category of costume design she led the field with 35 nominations and eight oscars during 33 years of her productive work. Edith head was a dominant figure in costume design; her creations were highly renowned as an art form while they gained popularity. The purpose of this study was to reveal the ef-fects of Edith Head's cinema costume designs on fashion. This study was also to emphasize the powerful influence on ashion of cinema costume and cinema costume designers in general. The study was done through literature movies for which she created costumes fashion magazines and Edith Head's original sketches. The influence of Edith Head's costume de-sign on fashion is as follows: 1. She introduced and lead the casual fashion in the 1950's combining simplicity and sophistication. 2. She altered uniforms and reconstructed public clothing for multiple functions. 3. She rearranged high school prom dresses through the movie 'A Place in the Sun" to en-hance characteristic of each gender and the Dandy Look of the 1930's into men's apparel in the 1970's through the movie "The Sting" 4. She expanded the traditional style in the 1940's and became a leader in ecological style. 5. She adapted glitter from astronaut's ap-parel into public clothing. 6. She resturctured Sabrina Pants in the 1960's to accentuate the individuals strength by overcoming one's weakness without minimi-zing it's aesthetic appeal and reintroduced the pants in the 1990's. 7. She introduced elegant negligees to gen-eral public and maintained it in the public do-main. As it is revealed Edith Head's costume de-sign not only impacted the field of fashion dur-ing her time but also is presently influencing modern fashion throughout the world as it is witnessed by repeated reintroduction of her fashion styles. Reviewing her cinema costumes it is concluded that cinema costumes it is concluded that cinema costumes powerfully af-fect the public through a visual channel more than any other routes. Cinema costumes can become the origin of fashion by stimulating the public to synchronize with and replicate what they see in the movies. Since cinema costumes can launch fashion trend it requires further research. Based on what is revealed in this study. it would be beneficial to examine how cinema costumes affect people socially and culturally and how they could provide resources for re-search in fashion trends. It is also the writers opinion that there should be more designers such as Edith head who could lead the field of costume design into the twenty-first century.