• 복식
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• 제54권2호
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• pp.66-78
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• 2004

A leather clothes which was a representative item of an existed resistant image created a new esthetics. Cyber Resistance, being mixed with the highlighted cyber image in these days. Especially. the image of such new leather clothes appears apparently in SF movies. The purpose of this study is to examine this new esthetics through the leather clothes of the movie. $\ulcorner$Matrix$\urcorner$. currently becoming the subject of a conversation and affecting to a popular culture and the fashion and to help to the design idea of a unique leather clothes. The result of analyzing of the character in the movie is following. Trinity shows herself as a woman warrior by wearing tight black leather suit. Morpheus is described as a vague character with his old fashioned suit and leather trench coat. while Niobe carries an image of rebellious cyber warrior in her leather suit with unique texture. In addition. leather clothes on $\ulcorner$Matrix$\urcorner$ got the name of Matrix look and became a main theme in fashion collection. We can feel 'Cyber Resistance' esthetics in that leather clothes through the movie and fashion collection and summarize into three following features, First. it's grafted into the dichotomous value by progress and return as a retro futurism. Second. it moderately express a rebellious image of punk into a cyber image. Third. it makes cyber warrior's image that is neutralized mixing military and fetish properly.

• 복식
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• 제60권4호
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• pp.58-75
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to investigate the characteristics of fur and leather clothes of minority races of China in Northeas and Inner Mongolia. To examine their characteristics, the clothes and ornaments were classified into four types: headwear, clothes, footwear, and accessories. First, headwear was divided into animal head-shaped, petal-shaped, round-shaped, and cone-shaped head wear. Among them, the animal head-shaped headwear was made by making the best use of the shape of animal's head and it was used as the best disguising method when hunting. Second, clothes were composed of upper garments and lower garments. For the upper garments, Po and Jeogori were worn and pants were worn for the lower garments. The clothes were decorated with lining, applique, or top-stitching on the outer collar, neck circumference, and the edge of sleeves and pants. Third, for the footwear, high boots of leather were developed to meet the needs for a convenient life in the plains. In some areas, fur shoes and leather shoes were also used. Finally, accessories included bags and gloves. Bags were usually decorated with fur on the outside or with a fringe or applique of tanned leather. Gloves were lavishly decorated with embroideries and partly with fur or leather.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.71-82
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• 2011

This paper examined the kinds and characteristics of leather and also analyzed the expression techniques and characteristics of leather in contemporary fashion. The objective of this study lies in re-interpreting the current location of leather in contemporary fashion design, enlarging unlimited potential expression fields of leather, and at the same time, helping create new viewpoints and expression types of leather. For this purpose, this paper examined the kinds and characteristics of leather through the existing literatures, and it also carried out positive analysis of the expression techniques and characteristics of leather clothes through local and foreign fashion magazines and collection papers, such as Gap, Vogue, and Mode & Mode, focusing on the works presented in the fashion collections after 2000. Leather in contemporary fashion is expressed in different colors through dyeing. Through various expression techniques such as wrinkles, ruffle, stitch, embossing, quilting, patchwork, holing, nailing, cutting, laser cutting, fringe, weaving, printing, and collage, leather breaks the fixed ideas of itself and further, it makes the images of fashion design affluent. Leather clothes, which are made through various expression techniques, have some characteristics. First, leather clothes emphasize women's voluptuous beauty. Second, leather clothes create a decorative effect through mixture of materials and various expression techniques. Third, through the feel of materials and the emphasis of shapes, primitive beauty is expressed.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.10-19
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• 2004

The purpose of this research is to reveal the antimicrobial activity of pet-dog clothes by investigating the bacteria resistance of 4 kinds of pet-dog clothes materials. 1. Investigation Results of Pet-Dog Clothes 64.7% of 150 survey participants, revealed they had pet-dog clothes. Hand laundering was 67.0%, while the laundering of both human and animal clothes was 9.2%. The greatest washing frequency was once every 2 weeks. So, the subjects didn't seem to think high of hygienic matters. Even though no if any relations were reported by 34.7% of the subjects, there were some experiences like sneezing or coughing (41.3%), slight itching (20.7%), and acute skin allergies. There were such hugging methods as heart to heart to the center (22.7%), face to face and around the mouth (16.7%), and below the heart with the dog's face outward (15.3%). Thus, hugging the dog near the pet-lover's face seems to be the cause of respiratory diseases including sneezes and coughs. 2. Results of the Anti-Bacteria Experiment of Pet-Dog Clothes Materials According to the analysis of the germs collected and cultured in this study to reveal the properness of pet-dog clothes materials, they were bacteria or bacilli in shapes. Spore growth was active in the order of such experimental materials as artificial leather > cotton > cotton/ nylon > polyester (finest thread). In terms of germ groups, the order was polyester(finest thread) > cotton > cotton/ nylon > artificial leather.

• 복식
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• 제55권4호
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• pp.38-48
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• 2005

This study is consider·ed about the relation or costume among Parhae, ancient Japan and Tang and the culture of this time commonly was influenced by Tang;s culture. The recorded items, which were exchanged from Parhae to Tang and ancient Japan, are the pelt of marten, seal, bear and tiger skin or Ammowhaha(암모화) Gu(구) and so on. Other items from Tang and ancient Japan to Parhae are various clothes and material like silk and so on. This Parhae's clothes made with leather obtained through hunting were the main product of Parhae and had been greatly famous in Tang and ancient Japan. At that time, Tang and ancient Japan had been only dependent on the agricultural life but had not been accustomed to the hunting life, and thereupon, the people in Tang and Nara Era had difficulties to get leather clothes. Accordingly, the leather products stood for the rich, and the people who purchased the leather products from Parhae were recognized as the rich. On the other hand, The prince and the royal family in Parhae were dispatched to Tang as Sooktwui(숙위). They paid a tribute to Tang and In return for it, Tang gave to Sookwui as well as to Parhae's envoys various items and clothes such as Po(포), belt(대), gold and silver Eodae(어대) and textile like a type of silk. These clothes were considered as the formal uniform like Kwanbok(관복) of Parhae. Specially, the time when Sookwui was sent to Tang rot-responded with the time when Tang gave formal uniform to Parhae's envoys. Therefore, we can confirm that the sending of Sookwui influenced to form uniform system of Parhae. In this exchange relation, there were several duplicated items showed, for example Po(포)-belt(대), Eui set(의일습), Eoeui(어의), Jobok(조복), Go(고). These items in Parhae were appeared in process of exchanging from Tang to Japan and from Tang to Parhae. At that time, the exchanges between Tang and Parhae were frequently active much more than those between Tang and Japan, and the acceptance of the culture from Tang was easier in Parhae than Japan in consideration of the geographical location. Therefore, those clothes could be understood as the items already used in Parhae and affected from Tang. These items in Parhae were appeared in process of exchanging from Tang to Japan and from Japan to Parhae. As a result, it is expected that the costumes, which Parhae took from Japan, are the same as those of Tang.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권6호
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• pp.806-821
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• 2000

Each and everything named fashion together with clothes were limited in the boundary of women and men's wear has been slow and narrow in changing speed compared to women's, even there are some differences in accordance time. But maintaining the basic features, men's wear in the latter 20th century has undergone diverse change in the part of materials such as various synthetic fiber, glass, metal, artificial leather and the see-through fabric able to seeing the body wearing the clothes. Therefore, the aim and definition of this study is to present the systematic framework giving help to develop men's wear design newer and more various by considering moulding of materials which existing men's wear could not show up and by grasping material trend of men's clothes in 1990s. The results of the study were summarized as follows : (1) Material containing lustering is categorized as Velvet, Silk, Lustering materials by synthetic fiber and Lustering materials by additional substance. The Velvet generally acknowledged having something to feel womanly image shows the bisexual character coexisting feature of men and women after grafting with men'fashion. The Silk was endowed the role as means of pleasure to express beyond boundary of sex breaking the existing consciousness which men should wear male clothes, not considering differences between men and women. The lustering made by synthetic fiber expressed modern sensitivity aesthetically to the suit. The lustering materials made by additional substance is seen mixed masculine character with womanly character. (2) See-through materials are acknowledged as decadence beauty caused by expanding subjective awareness in beauty. (3) Materials by the sorts of Net is categorized as Lace, Knit The Lace expression seemed to emphases the human liberation of men and women and the humanity from liberation of subjecthood. The Knit can be felt both woman's image and man's image as bisexual image, not raising only one side sex. (4) Elastic materials offered the opportunity to approve exposure in a time when exposure of men's body was not granted ethically. (5) Leather was shown as indication of social status and inferiority and expression of collective resistance against sexual stagnation of men and women.

• 복식
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• 제58권8호
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• pp.63-73
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• 2008

From the ancient Korea to the late Joseon Korean fur and leather had been preferred in and out of Korea for their good quality and excellent manufacturing skill. Since Unified Silla (A.D.676${\sim}$A.D.936) Korean fur and leather were manufactured divisionally by workmen specialized in materials and products, and such manufacturing process was succeeded to Goryeo and Joseon. Manufacturing of fur and leather was consisted of as follows: hunting and butchering - peeling - beating with a paddle and removing fat - oil manufacturing - drying - tanning, then cutting and sewing, and there was a special caring method. In order to make good fur and leather, each process of manufacturing needed particular techniques and all available methods were tried to have tender fur and leather by using smoking, excrement, lime, vegetable tannin and even cerebral liquid. And also required mouth-chewing and hand-pounding with a lot of time and of labor Keeping furs resilience and flexibility, sowing several skins together, even when the after-all-process skin was converted into clothes, was much more difficult than sewing fabric. Thus, the manufacturing cost was as much expensive as skin materials, and the volume of manufacturing of fur and leather was also limited. Therefore, fur and leather must have been popular for scarcity value in the manufacturing process, and this scarcity must have caused an extreme luxury of fur.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.802-812
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate effects of natural incense on the preservation of paper- and textile-based remains and the kinds and applications of natural anti-insect incense by reviewing relevant literatures of the ancient times. There are few ancient literatures of incense published in Korea. The researcher deducted how incense was used in this nation through reviewing verses contained in ancient literatures and medical books. In contrast, the kinds and applications of anti-insect incense used in China, where incense culture prospered, were investigated here through reviewing technical books about incense published during the Song(宋) and Ming(明) periods, $\ll$Incense record(香譜)$\gg$, $\ll$Chen's Incense record(陳氏香譜)$\gg$ and $\ll$Incense record(香乘)$\gg$. There were several methods of keeping clothes better from insects. In relation, how to use anti-insect incense varied in accordance with main materials of clothes, paper, textile, leather and others. Cymbopogon dstans(芸香), Brassica rapu var and Incarvillea sinensis(角蒿) are anti-insect incense which were used for paper. Anti-insect incense for textiles is classified into single and mixed incenses depending on whether only one kind of incense was used or more than seven kinds of the substance. Acori rhizoma(菖蒲), Capsella bursa-pastoris(薺菜花), Lactuca sativa L., Erigeron canadensis(莽草), Stemona japonica(百部) and Moschus sifanicus(麝香) are single anti-insect incense which were used for textile. While, the latter was called. ‘Yi Xiang(衣香)’ is mixed anti-insect incense which was used for textile. Artemisia asiatica(艾葉) and Zanthoxylum schinifolium(花椒) are anti-insect incense which were used for leather. Angelica dahurica(芳香) and Bamboo are anti-insect incense which were used for others. There were three main methods of using incense to prevent insects, that is, diffusing incense's strong scent and ingredients, exposing to smokes from burnt incense and washing with incense-boiled water. Diffusing incenses had a strong scent and antibiotic ingredients, which were put between books or clothes or into a storage box without being processed. If necessary, however, they were processed into rough powders that were in turn used singly, or otherwise mixed for a stronger scent and better insect elimination. Exposing to smokes from burnt incense was done as follows. A clothes was put on 'Long(籠)' underneath which there was a boiling water. The clothes was humidified by the water and then exposed to smokes from burnt incense. 'Long(籠)' had been long used since it was manufactured in the QinHan(秦漢) period for the first time. A local literature, $\ll$Koryo TuGing(高麗圖經)$\gg$ shows that in the Koryo(高麗) period, BoShaLu(博山爐) were used as a means of exposing clothes to smokes to prevent moths, similarly to China. Washing clothes with incense-boiled water was more effective in removing lots of worms and germs from clothes, but leaving the scent and ingredients of the used incense and maintaining the effect of anti-insect.

• 복식
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• 제58권9호
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• pp.114-128
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• 2008

The current study aims to classify types of traditional fur Garments in Jeju into Dusik(hat), dress, Jokui(socks) and accessaries, and examine characteristics of them through demonstrative study focusing on collections of museums in Jeju. Dusik is a kind of hat for protection against the cold, and there are badger leather Gamtaes and cow hair Beonggeojis(fur hats). Especially leather gamtae was used to protect against the cold when people hunted roe deers in Mt. Halla. Beonggeoji was producted in the form of felt with fine hair collected coat-shedding of cows and dogs in spring, therefore it was too warm and practical to be damaged from storm or pressure. Fur coat is a general name of dress made of leather without hair. It is a kind of clothes with a hat worn while taking care of horses and cows. Also people wore dog leather topcoats and cow leather topcoats when they hunted in Mt. Halla. As for Jokui, there are leather Beoseon(socks) made of cow leather, leather shoes in the form of straw shoes, and leather Balle embracing the low half of the body warmly. Accessaries include a rectangular cow leather bag for storing an iron piece for making fire. These traditional fur robs in Jeju not only have practicality for protection against the cold, but also symbolized richness by using leathers of badgers, roe deers, etc. that were previous during that times. Also they used partially cut leather for decoration at the edge.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.455-467
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is reviewing and researching the symbolic meaning and classifying the types of the style of the Costume in classical novel 'Shimchungjun' focusing on the woman's costume through the antique records and tombs bequests. Titled ladies for royal family put on 'Wooimkyoryong' and 'Sungun' as a petticoat when the ladies of Song period rode on horses. The underskirt played a part to swell a skirt for ladies. 'Bakjueui' and 'Hwangsangi' were ordinary clothes ranging from ladies of loyal family to women. The red color was limited to royal family. The ordinary clothes of women were white ramie clothes commonly and floral patterned clothes were prohibited to the ordinary clothes for women. 'Ko', a breast-tie (breast ribbon) of a Korean coat, was made of silk and women wear as an outer garment. The common people will wear 'Ko' of white ramie clothes which was very active items. The ladies of royal family and women put on shoes made of white ramie clothes, but the full dress of queen wore blue boots made of leather. The noble women wore 'Suk'(boots) made of deer skin and common people wore straw shoes regardless of gender and age. Sometimes they wore 'Woopihye' made of cowhide. In the first of Koryo era, the styles of dress were consisted of 'Monso', 'Eui', 'Po', 'Dae', 'Koh', 'Sang', 'Sungkun' and 'Kangnang'. The structure of costume for women made little difference and there was a great difference with decoration.