• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.439-453
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• 2015

This research is regarding Park Ki-Jong's Western-style court costume and emphasizes the shape and style peculiarities of Western-style court costumes in the Korean Empire from the 1876 Port Opening to the 1910 annexation of Korean to Japan. Park Ki-Jong's frock coat was made during the period of the established law from 1900 to 1910. 1) The brand was ASADA TAILOR from Kyung-Sung. 2) The shape was long at the front and back, and it featured a picked lapel and double breast with six buttons to fasten and two buttons for decoration on the upper part. 3) The frock coat's materials were black wool fabric and black ridged silk. The lining's material was black plain silk and the sleeve's lining was white with blue striped silk. 4) The front separated the upper and bottom parts. The bottom was composed of a one-piece A-line skirt that continued from the front to back. The top of the back was separated by the princess line and the center-back seam was also separated with a vent. However, the center-back of the waistline was not separated, and it continued to one piece. The sleeve shape was a two-piece sleeve style with a phony vent and two wrapping buttons.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.151-167
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to find out comparison of preference style and wearing style of jacket by body perception and satisfaction. This research was done by a survey method. Descriptive Statistics, t-test, Pearson's Correlation, Coefficients MANOVA, Two-Way ANOVA and Duncan's test were used for data analysis. The results of this study are as follows. 1) The subjects were less satisfied with larger or thicker girth of upper body. The subjects were less satisfied with thicker upper arm, lower arm, waist and lower abdomen. The subjects were less satisfied with larger or thicker girth of lower body. The subjects were less satisfied with thicker hips, thighs, calves, ankles, and longer crotch length. 2) The subjects with the highest dissatisfaction about neck thickness and length prefer jacket with collar but wear jacket without cellar. The subjects with the smallest bust wear jacket with short lapel. The subjects with wider shoulder wear jacket with narrower shoulder width. The subjects with more dissatisfaction about shoulder incline wear raglan sleeve jacket. The subjects with wider hips wear hip line length jacket.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.104-116
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• 2014

This study investigated the jacket preferences and actual fit according to body image perception of female university students in their early twenties, using a survey questionnaire method to analyze areas of dissatisfaction and improvements based on wearing experience. On the relationship between jacket and body image perception, female students with poor body image expressed the highest rate of "not satisfied" with purchase, which was significant. On buying preferences, the "Internet" was the primary place of purchase and "design" of jacket had highest consideration on the decision to buy. "Princess with a cinched - in waist" was the most preferred silhouette, and the most preferred length was "below the hip line." The most preferred cut was "basic," a jacket with a "tailored-collar of notched lapel shape," and "2-buttons." On discomfort and improvement of jacket fitness, students were most dissatisfied with "arm hole." The studies of production of a jacket which fitness and activities is both considered for female university students in their early twenties who use clothes to make them look more like their ideal body image.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.237-251
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to provide the improvement idea for an school uniform styling that better satisfies female high school students' changing demands, through evaluating images differences according to design variation in school uniforms. This study was carried out with a between-subject design by using the stimulant materials of school uniform design and image assessment scale. The stimulant materials used for this study were 27 designs with blazer/skirt ensemble and 21 designs with vest/skirt ensemble. The survey materials were collected through a questionnaire from a total of 192 female high school students living in Gyeongsangnam-do. As a result of analyses on a image of blazer/skirt ensembles, 4 factors were extracted such as neatness, uniqueness, activeness, and attractiveness. Blazer was the only variables that exerted significant effects on neatness, uniqueness, and attractiveness. As a result of analyses on a image of vest/skirt ensembles, 4 factors were extracted such as attractiveness, neatness, uniqueness, and activeness. Skirt was the only variables that exerted significant effects on attractiveness, neatness, and uniqueness. Neat image was perceived to be high in ensembles of standard blazer/standard collar/horizontal-seam skirt, standard vest/skirt with horizontal color combination, and buttons-down vest/horizontal-seam skirt. Unique image was perceived to be high in ensembles of blazer with bindings/standard collar/solid skirt, and vest with pockets/skirt with vertical bindings. Also, active image was perceived to be high in ensembles of vest with pockets/skirt with vertical bindings, and buttons-down vest/skirt with vertical bindings. Attractive image was perceived to be high in ensembles of blazer with bindings/peaked lapel/skirt with vertical bindings, and standard vest/horizontal-seam skirt. In conclusion, this study reveals that different items and pieces of school uniforms can be combined in many different ways to create quite diverse looks. Thus, this study provides important basic data for research on teenagers' fashion and clothing.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.63-78
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• 2017

The purposes of this study was to study Turkic clothing traditions as a way to shed light on cultural development via the interactions among different tribes along the Silk Road, the close correlations between the surroundings of the Turks and their costumes, and the root of Turkic culture through literature studies and empirical studies. The study results are as follows. First, the Turks were nomadic equestrian tribes in the north that dominated the cold dry steppes from the $6^{th}$ to $8^{th}$ century A.D., when they expanded their influence to Dongbei, China to the east, and Turkistan (Central Asia) to the west. The Turks formed a nomadic lifestyle and culture suited to a cold dry climate, and interacted with various other tribes via the Silk Road, while exchanging and sharing different cultural aspects. Second, given that the Turkic garments constitute a two-piece style, which is a category of the basic nomadic costume of northern tribes, and that the artifact materials manifest jackets, overcoats, pants and skirts, the garments are categorized into tops and bottoms. The tops are sub-categorized into jackets and overcoats. The bottoms are sub-categorized into pants and skirts. In light of the necklines of tops, jackets have round necklines, while overcoats have V-necklines, round necklines and lapel collars. The bottoms include narrow-legged pants, wide-legged pants and closed-hem pants. Drapery skirts are worn at the waist. Third, the Turkic V-neckline overcoat is comparable to the Huns' silk overcoat, which illustrates the ethnic link between the two tribes. Also, the Turkic narrow- and wide-legged pants are consistent with the Huns' silk pants discovered in Noin Ula. The Turkic costumes are mostly tight fitting, suitable for the nomadic lifestyle in a cold, dry climate. Also, additional patches must be attached to the crotch points of pants due to the equestrian lifestyle.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.111-121
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• 2004

The Mevelana sect is a spiritual Islamic group experiencing spiritual transaction with their god through a peculiar dancing as a form of religious ritual. The Mevelana, a sect of Islamic Sufism, has their head mosque in Konya in Turkey. Although Mevelana sect is regarded as heretic of Islam, it has exerted considerable influence on the Islamic religion through its peculiar religious worshiping form constituted in dancing and reciting poems. Nowadays, Turkey recognizes the Mevelana dancing as their precious cultural legacy of a long history, exerting public information efforts to give it for wider publicity of Turkey to the world. The Mevelana dress with ornament attired for the ritual dancing performance is regarded to symbolize a spiritual medium, which leads to conciliation with the eternity. The straight lines and curved line characteristic of the Mevelana dancer's trousers, skirt, jacket and such mirrors the image of the Orientals, which is in peculiar contrast with the white and gray colors of the dress with ornament. The impression of the spiritual Mevelana dressing in harmony with the dynamic dancing motion goes beyond mere a religious dressing. It is expressive of a graceful and sophisticated modern formative art, of which the mystic design gives an inspiration to the modern fashion. After Poiret, Islamic factors have emerged in the modern fashion. For instance, a hat with Arabic fashion lapel, a Fez hat of Turkish style, harem pants and such are still popular in the modern fashion. It seems probable that the Iraq War would far more activate the influence of Arabic culture to the modern fashion. By making an analysis on the religious background and formative characteristics of the Mevelana dressing, and by giving design examples on how the Mevelanan dressing has been applied to the modern fashion, this research suggests working out new designs by making a renewed application of their characteristics to the modern fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.6
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• pp.826-837
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• 2015

This study analyzes the shapes of the adjustment of a Napoleon Collar which combines a stand collar with an upper collar. It established experimental conditions for fixing the conditions of Napoleon Collar components (lapel width, stand collar size and upper collar size) as well as varied the shape of the neckline, the length of the curve of a stand collar and the size of the drawing space at the center back. It produced 22 test clothes of muslin, which were dressed on dress form No. 8. The results indicate that: 1. Neckline shape determines the amount of stand and fall. Less curved neckline stands higher against the neck and a more curved neckline is laid lower onto the body. 2. A shorter curve length of a stand collar allows a longer roll line to fall farther away from the neck with more space between the neck and collar. However, the longer the depth of curve of a stand collar creates a shorter roll line that stands high against neck and closer to neck without any space between the neck and collar with a collar line matching the neck of the dress form. 3. The smaller the drawing space at the center back creates a shorter the style line of the upper collar. However, a narrower back width of the collar creates a bigger drawing space at the center back with a longer the style line and a more naturally placed back width of the collar. 4. A Napoleon Collar creates a longer depth of curve for a stand collar and a smaller drawing space at the center back that is tightly and stably stuck to the neck.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.483-503
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• 1995

The purpose of this study was to clarify the origin which have misused terms, analyze Its meanings and suggest the unified terms. The content of this study are as follows. The origin of the terms in western dress is different with the areas of cultural influence. Japanese occupied much more than other languages in the apparel industry after the civilization. and English has dominated in the educational filed since 1945 the Liberalization. French, German, Portuguese, Spanish, Dutch are added. These languages came to the clothing field via Japanese and English or directly from the countries. 망토(manteau프), 메리야스(medias스), 러닝셔츠(일) 라사(raxa네), 오트 쿠튀르(Haute Couture 프), 비로드(veludo 포), etc. However the words of foreign origin have misused or corrupted until now a days. 마이 (재킷, 상의), 노 슬립, 소데나시 (슬리브리스, 민소매) 넌라쟈(브래지어), 노타이, 노타이샤쓰(오픈칼라 셔츠, 넥타이를 매지 않은 셔츠) 와이샤쓰(드레스 ttu츠), etc. And also these terms are confused in using because of the word's diversity, the different nationality, change of the marking rules, and the difference between the education and production field terms. On the others hand, this study explained the differences between western costume and Korean costume as the clothing manufacture terms were translated to Korean. bodice-길, collar, neckline-깃, belt, sash-(허리)띠 And then the untied terms were suggested through the comparison production field and educational area (including schools and institutes). lapel, 라펠(학교용어) (학원용어), 가에리 (일) (의류산업 현장용어), 아랫깃(통일어) By the way, this study involved the origin of and misused teams in sewing and presented the unified terms. 미까시 (X)-미 카에시(일) - 안단($\bigcirc$), 이새(X)―홈줄임 ($\bigcirc$) As the above , the characteristics of clothing terms which have misused are Japans,;e, corrupt Japanese, false reports foreign words via Korean, Japanese, compound words of Korean and Japanese, compound words of English and Japanese. And also the words of foreign origin in clothing had the following tendency in the marking system. There are ellipsis of form, sex, timber, grammatical case '-ing', '-ed' in adjective and long vowels express to short vowels. We can see this phenomena as the rule of curtailment labor.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.9
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• pp.940-951
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• 2012

This study evaluates the fit preference of the tailored jacket according to body types for 20's adult women through a comparison of real and virtual fit. A five point fit evaluation scale utilizing a wearer acceptability scale by Shen and Huck was used to evaluate the degree of the preference of real and virtual fit. This scale contained 23 items in three categories: front fit, back fit, and side fit. For each item, 5 responses from 'too tight' fit (1 point) to 'too loose' fit (5 point) were possible. The middle position for each fit criterion indicated a 'good' fit (3 point). The data were analyzed with a t-test using statistical program SPSS 17.0. According to the results, there were no significant differences ($p{\leq}.05$) between the real and virtual fit preference in total measurement items such as front collar, lapel and roll line, front shoulder slope, front armhole, front waist, abdomen, sideseam, hemline, front silhouette, side shoulder, side armhole, side sleeve width, side hip, side silhouette, back collar stand, upper back, back armhole, back waist, back hip, back silhouette except front bust, side waist, and back center back. The factor that caused a difference in the fit preference between the real and virtual fit evaluation was a specific body type such as Body Type A that indicated a small bust circumference and a big hip circumference.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.787-799
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• 2016

This study considers aesthetic characteristics by examining fashion style of fashion journalist Anna Wintour. Fashion journalists are specialists who work at fashion media. Especially, Anna Wintour is one of the most famous fashion journalist in the world and fashion icon, who has been editor-in chief of Vogue USA since 1988. For this study, Anna Witour's photograph was collected from 2010 to 2015 on web-sites. After collecting images, it analysed with 4criterions which were silhouette, color, fabric(pattern and texture) and hair style(and accessories) following advance researches analysis about fashion style. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, symbolism revealed that could express her identity through utilizing steady items such as blond bob hair, Chanel bold sunglasses, short round neckless and Manolo Blahnik's low-heeled slingback nude sandals. Especially, she gave consistency to her fashion style with fixed hair style and accessories which are similar in shape. Second, femininity, that reveal as an internal characteristic such as sensitivity and as an external characteristic like fluidity. Anna Wintour expressed femininity with elegant curvy silhouette, various of color and flower pattern. Particularly, she emphasized nature women's body shape with princess silhouette, slim silhouette. Third, analysis result indicated characteristic of authority with oversize silhouette, wide lapel details and glamorous genuine fur items. Furthermore, some of her fur items looked overwhelming which dyed in artificial color or printed with leopard pattern. These powerful items contained immanent meanings that are power and position which could express a role as an editor-in chief of Vogue USA.