Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (한국의류학회지)

The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (한국의류학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Collar Shapes According to the Variation of the Pattern Design Factors of the Napoleon Collar

패턴 설계 요인에 따른 나폴레옹칼라의 형태 변화 연구

  • Lee, Gyuerim (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Changwon National University) ;
  • Kim, Yeosook (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Changwon National University) ;
  • Kim, Seokhan (Min Fashion)
  • Received : 2015.04.21
  • Accepted : 2015.07.22
  • Published : 2015.12.31
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

This study analyzes the shapes of the adjustment of a Napoleon Collar which combines a stand collar with an upper collar. It established experimental conditions for fixing the conditions of Napoleon Collar components (lapel width, stand collar size and upper collar size) as well as varied the shape of the neckline, the length of the curve of a stand collar and the size of the drawing space at the center back. It produced 22 test clothes of muslin, which were dressed on dress form No. 8. The results indicate that: 1. Neckline shape determines the amount of stand and fall. Less curved neckline stands higher against the neck and a more curved neckline is laid lower onto the body. 2. A shorter curve length of a stand collar allows a longer roll line to fall farther away from the neck with more space between the neck and collar. However, the longer the depth of curve of a stand collar creates a shorter roll line that stands high against neck and closer to neck without any space between the neck and collar with a collar line matching the neck of the dress form. 3. The smaller the drawing space at the center back creates a shorter the style line of the upper collar. However, a narrower back width of the collar creates a bigger drawing space at the center back with a longer the style line and a more naturally placed back width of the collar. 4. A Napoleon Collar creates a longer depth of curve for a stand collar and a smaller drawing space at the center back that is tightly and stably stuck to the neck.

Keywords

References

  1. Choi, K. J., & Shin, H. S. (2000). Fashion design through the patterning. Paju: GYOMOON PUSLITHERS.
  2. Jang, M. H. (2004), The collar shape and image of shirt collars according to pattern construction-Focused on the depth of stand collar neckline curve. Unpublished master's thesis, Hanyang University, Seoul.
  3. Ji, M. H., & Park, J. B. (2009). 브랜드 도식화 여성복 패턴 [Brand technical sketch pattern for women's wear]. Seoul: Kyeongchunsa.
  4. Kim, H. S. (2000). Jacket pattern making II-For women's wear. Seoul: Kyeongchunsa.
  5. Kim, K. A. (2011). Women's wear pattern making. Seoul: Kyeongchunsa.
  6. Kim, H. S. (2001). A study of designing of bodice and collar pattern according to the shape of women's neck and shoulder. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 9(5), 770-782.
  7. Kim, M. J. (2011, July 15) [패션아이콘] 트렌치 코트 [[Fashion Icon] Trench Coat]. Naver. Retrieved March 10, 2014, from http://navercast.naver.com/contents.nhn?rid=135&contents_id=5814
  8. Kyoko, E. (1997). Collar (H. J. Lee, Trans.) Seoul: Yehagsa. (Original work published 1979)
  9. Lee, C. Y. (2014, March 17). 롯데백화점 부산본점, '천송이' 효과... 트렌치코트 돌풍! [Lotte department store, 'Cheon Songi' effect... Trench coat tremendous popularity!]. CNBNEWS. Retrieved March 10, 2014, from http://cnbnews.com/news/article.html?no=229609
  10. Na, M. H., Heo, D. J., Jeong, B. H., Lee, J. S., & Kim, J. S. (2002). 산업패턴설계: 여성복 2 [Industrial pattern design: Women's clothing 2]. Seoul: Kyohakyeongusa.
  11. Oh, S. H. (2000). 서양의복구성 [Western clothing construction]. Seoul: Yehagsa.
  12. Park, C. M. (2010). A study on the shirt collar with collar band. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 18(6), 1228-1241. https://doi.org/10.29049/rjcc.2010.18.6.1228
  13. Park, S. Y., & Nam, Y. J. (2003). Dividinism of collar of costume in the cultural pattern of post-modernism. Journal of the Korean Society for Clothing Industry, 5(3), 227-234.
  14. Suh, M. A. (1993). A study on the collar stand in rolled collar. Unpublished master's thesis, Hanyang University, Seoul.
  15. Uh, M. K. (2005). 기성복산업패턴 [Apparel production pattern]. Seoul: Kyohakyeongusa.

Cited by

  1. Analysis of Neck Fit-zone according to Body Type for Females in Their 60s vol.20, pp.4, 2018, https://doi.org/10.5805/SFTI.2018.20.4.429