• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.81-96
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• 2007

Nonlinear shoaling characteristics over surf zone are numerically investigated based on spatially averaged NavierStokes equation. We also test the validity of gradient model for turbulent stresses due to wave breaking using the data acquainted during SUPERTANK LABORATORY DATA COLLECTION PROJECT(Krauss et al., 1992). It turns out that the characteristics length scale of breaking induced current is not negligible, which firmly stands against ever popular gradient model, ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ model, but favors Large Eddy Simulation with finer grid. Based on these observations, we model the residual stress of spatially averaged NavierStokes equation after Lagrangian Dynamic Smagorinsky(Meneveau et al., 1996). We numerically integrate newly proposed wave equations using SPH with Gaussian kernel function. Severely deformed water surface profile, free falling water particle, queuing splash after landing of water particle on the free surface and wave finger due to structured vortex on rear side of wave crest(Narayanaswamy and Dalrymple, 2002) are successfully duplicated in the numerical simulation of wave propagation over uniform slope beach, which so far have been regarded very difficult features to mimic in the computational fluid mechanics.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.28 no.5B
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• pp.547-558
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• 2008

With the advent of super cargo ship due to the explosive increase in the amount of cargo shipped via seas, some mega ports are under construction in South Korea, to accommodate the super cargo ship, and some of them already enter their final phase. To sustain the harbor tranquility, mega ports usually comprise huge vertical type breakwaters which are intrinsically vulnerable to the attack of long waves. In this rationale, we present the chamber type breakwater with a circular curtain wall - Eco-breaker 2, to alleviate the reflection of long waves and numerically investigate the hydraulic characteristics of Eco-breaker 2. As a wave driver, we use the Navier-Stokes eq., the most robust wave driver, using SPH (Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics) and LES (Large Eddy Simulation). For the verification of numerical results, we also carried out hydraulic model test. It is shown that Eco-breaker 2 can effectively alleviate the reflection of long waves with its inherited large organized eddies encompassing the water chamber and some region off the curtain wall of varying size. It is also shown that the scope and strength of large organized eddies strongly depends on the incident wave period, and the reflection coefficient can be lowered to 0.18 by tuning the size of water chamber such that resident time at the chamber is just short of the half period of incident waves. Based on these results, we present the specification of Eco-breaker 2 to boost its use on the development of water environment friendly harbor worldwide.