• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.1-16
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• 2015

The appearances and geometry structures of knitted fabrics have important effects on their functions as textile fabrics. Structural design of the woven fabric, prior to the manufacturing processes in the weaving mill, often leads to a similar predictable appearance in the final outcome with the corresponding weave design. The increase of the employment of elastic textile yarns in knitting fabrics for comfort stretch or outdoor sports wear knit products has, however, resulted in difficulties in predicting the final appearance of the knit structure design. Due to the stretchability and exceptional recovery behavior of the elastic yarns such as polyurethane elastomeric yarns, the appearance of the final product often differs from the initial knit design. At textile CAD program for preparing tricot knit designs has been employed in this study to predict the two dimensional appearance of the design. The similarities between the designs and corresponding knit products seem to be acceptable for the two-dimensional textile CAD program in this study. However, when elastomeric yarns are partially employed in the polyester filament tricot product, a considerable amount of departure from the design is apparent due to the constriction and/or deformation of property differences in the elastomeric yarns and polyester filament yarns. Therefore, another purpose of this study is to measure the departure of the final tricot product from the initial tricot design, especially in the case employing elastomeric yarns in the knit structure together with regular polyester filament yarns. For measuring the three-dimensional departure, a 3D scanning system has been used for the mesh reconstruction of the fabric specimen. Hopefully, the result from this study will be used as a guide to modify and improve the current textile CAD program proposed for the two-dimensional simulation of the tricot.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.131-138
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• 2010

The purposes of this study are for current manufacturing status of the formal knit slacks for the middle aged women. As for the methodology, five manufacturers specializing in formal knitwear brands were subjected to the study, to examine the current manufacturing status of the knit slacks for the middle aged women, by conducting interviews and questionnaire with patterner and designer. The questionnaire items are 20 ones including general questions on manufacturing of the knit slacks, questions on materials used in manufacturing, and on sewing. The results are as followings : First, as for the manufacturing structure of the knit slacks manufacturer, all manufacturers directly manufactured knit slacks in their own factory, and the manufacturing was comprised of 10% in woven slacks and 90% in knit slacks. Second, as for the type of yarn mostly used in fabric knitting for the knit slacks, wool was used mostly for F/W, and acrylic or Saint yarn for S/S. As for the types of knit, Milano rib stitch and Half Milano rib stitch were used for wool and acrylic knitting, and plain stitch was used for Saint yarn. As for the gauge, 12G and 14G were used, whereas 7G, 12G was used for Saint yarn. Repair requests of the knit slacks were mostly on the length of the pants, such as shortening hip circumference and crotch length, or widening waist and hip area. The study shows that the size of knit slacks did not fit the body type of customers.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.109-117
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• 2010

Knit fabrics are created on diverse machines with diverse knit loops and conditions to make different patterns and fabric types. Dimensional modifications of knit fabrics can also be achieved by numerous methods such as different knit-loop structures, different types of yarns, or different finishing processes including heat setting, steaming, chemical treatment et cetera. This research develops and explores sophisticated three-dimensional knit fabrics by combining the several different knit stitches including rib and purl. This study focuses on 3D knit models created on modern electronic weft (flat V-bed) knitting machines which have capability of individual needle selection. Several samples of the 3D knitted fabrics are also examined in this research. This research furthermore suggests new types of knitted fashion garment made by using the interesting physical effects.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.51-56
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• 2006

Power net fabric is one of the highly extensible two-way fabrics. Power net structure shows special characteristics in the wearing of final functional clothes. This research evaluated effects of treatment temperature on proportional extensibility and shrinkage ratio of spandex at a given wale length. As treatment temperature increased, extensibility increased proportionally to the standard length of the sample and the shrinkage ratio in the direction of course and wale increased. The pulling-out length increased proportionally to the standard length of the sample. However it was affected by the effect of treatment time and temperature due to the thermal properties of spandex filament yarn.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.273-279
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• 2000

Interlace textured yarn was developed in order to increase weaving process efficiency. Today, interlace texturing is very useful method of manufacturing the high added value compound yarns for new synthetic fabrics. In this research, new silky type high added value compound yarns were. manufactured by interlace texturing technology and tested their properties. The object of this research is to investigate the relationship between interlace textured yarn properties and processing parameters that is air pressure, yarn tension and take-up speed. The original filament yarns used were TTD(Thick & Thin Semi-Dull) 110d/72f and SCD(Semi-Dull Cation Dyeable) 75d/36f. 27 specimens were manufactured and tested for their physical properties-nip density, tensile properties, multi-step shrinkage test and surface structure by SEM. The air pressure was main process condition to change properties of interlace textured yarns. And interlace textured process had influence on weaving preparation process, weaving, knitting and so on. It has some influence on shrinkage properties of dyeing and finishing processes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.1-15
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• 2017

The aim of this study is to plan a design that satisfies consumer needs by forecasting future properties following changes of gauge in basic Jacquard structure and to provide helpful data for a variety of knit-wear development. Four basic Jacquard knit samples (Normal Jacquard, Bird's eye Jacquard, Floating Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard) were selected and projected by using three types of gauges (7G, 12G, 14G) with an SES-122S type Computer Knitting machine of Shimaseiki MFG. Twelve different types of samples with Jacquards and gauges were tested on a flat table by measuring the course and wale in a 1cm area to calculate the gauge of samples. The mechanical properties of 12 types of Jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). As the result of comparing the number of patterns, courses and wales depending on the change of gauge of the basic Jacquard structure, it was observed that the number of patterns per specific length, course and wale has increased from 7G to 14G, a high-gauge. According to objective research regarding Jacquard structure, 7G Tubular Jacquard, which is low gauge, seems to be suitable for masculine design as it is heavy and thick, and has rigid and rough texture due to a high level of flexural strength and shear property. 14G Floating Jacquard, which is high gauge, seems to be suitable for feminine, silhouette design as it is light, thin, soft, flexible and has high drape. The result of this study provides a theoretical foundation for knit-wear development considering basic Jacquard structure and gauge-specific properties. This study can be used to provided directions for the development of knit industry.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Building Construction Conference
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• 2018.05a
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• pp.107-108
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• 2018

In this study, we applied the fiber sheet made by the stitch bonding method, which is a structure in which transverse yarns and double yarns are crossed by applying the principle of sewing knitting without the use of adhesive, The tensile strength of the reinforced concrete structure was investigated. As a result of the tensile strength test of each specimen, the specimen to which the fiber sheet produced by the stitch bonding method was applied exhibited the highest tensile strength among the three types of specimens, and the fiber sheet produced by the needle punching method exhibited the lowest strength. In addition, the stitch - bonded fiber sheet showed a difference of strength of 0.1N / mm for both length and double - sided strength difference.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.1-13
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• 2018

3D printing technology, which is expected to play a leading role within the Fourth Industrial Revolution, is becoming distinguished not only in the space, automotive, medical and engineering industries, but also in the area of design. The fashion and textile structures created by 3D printing technology were classified into three types - basic structure, unified structure, and a new physical structure. When traditional weaving, knitting, and stitching was reinterpreted through 3D printing, there were apparent limitations in reproducing the characteristics of fabric structures due to differences in the materials and structures of traditional textiles. New physical structures are being developed to break away from merely reproducing traditional textile structures, and to bring out the characteristics of 3D printing technology. As examples of new physical structures, there are the kinematics structure which utilizes the hinge method, mesostructure cellular material, and the N12 disk structure. Such techniques potentially open a new paradigm of fashion and textile structures. Some innovative aspects of 3D printing technology may result in changes in the methods of collaboration, manufacturing, and distribution. Designers are receiving help from specialists of various backgrounds to merge 3D printing technology to create original works. Also, 3D printing not only makes personalized custom designs available, but shortens the distribution channels, foretelling a change within the fashion and textile industry.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.763-778
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• 2021

The study aims to analyze the mixed characteristics of knit fashion design as demonstrated in Sacai's collection, which promotes hybrid and mesh-up fusion and proposes various knit design ideas. Standards for categorizing mixed phenomena of Sacai's knit design were established through a review of literature and data analysis. The study's data collection period was from 2012 to 2021, and a total of 174 items were analyzed. The following are the results. First is the fusion of traditional knit and contemporary styles expressed through de-constructive design; traditional knit styles are combined with contemporary styles through color, material, and knitting structure mixtures, such as mixing Northern European Aran, Fair Isle, Nordic, and Ropy knit. Second, the Sakai knit design combines male and female styles by mixing materials and details. A deconstructed knit cardigan was matched with androcentric pin-striped shirts worn over layered shirring skirts embellished with chiffon and lace. Third, everyday street fashion style is blended with a formal, elegant fashion style. For example, the front view has a typical everyday appearance, whereas the back view contains florid and decorated details. The style is expressed as a 360-degrees appellation, with one thing in the front and another in the back. Sacai's distinctive expressional characteristics include a mixed and de-constructive style characterized by unexpected design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.5
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• pp.844-854
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• 2016

In order to understand the current state of production and pattern design of circular knitted jackets, this study selected 11 female clothing brands based from the "2012/2013 Korea Fashion Brand Yearbook" and interviewed the staff in charge of patterns at the companies. Polyester and polyurethane were found to be synthesized and used for the outshell of circular knitted jackets, alternatively natural fabric cotton or wool were synthesized with rayon. As for the structure of circular knitted materials, Ponte Di Roma knitting structure (a modified form of a double knit) was most often used. Surveying the use pattern and the parts for padding cloth, six responded that they used elastic padding cloth. As for circular knitted jackets with inner lining, elastic padding cloth was attached to all parts (front, back, side panel, and collar - except for sleeves) of the basic bodice pattern. Eight responded that they did not use a basic pattern when designing a pattern, which exceeds the majority. All respondents answered yes to the question on if there is any difference in designing a pattern for a woven jacket and a circular knitted jacket. It was found that they designed a pattern that considered shrinkage and elongation, which are the features of circular knitted fabric. Shrinkage and elongation were the features of a fabric material most considered when designing patterns for a circular knitted jacket.