• 패션비즈니스
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.148-165
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to establish a theory about the necessary structure for knitwear design, and to propose it with the practical data through the actual development of a high value added knit structure. For this study, the market was conducted along with literature reviews on the existing studies and the relevant books about knit structures. The market research aimed at the products released in the spring/summer and fall/winter seasons of 2012-2013, focusing on brand for middle aged women. The utilization of the structure by item and the characteristics of knit design were studied. The research was conducted on S/S products in May and July, and F/W products in October and December. As a result of the market research, it was shown that the lightweight structures with permeability such as plain, lace, links and links, this is repeated and rib structure were frequently utilized during the S/S season, while double structures with good shape stability were greatly utilized during the F/W season. Also, during the F/W season, a cable structure and tubular jacquard that emphasized the volume or cubic effect were frequently used, and there were many jacquard structures where a change of color sense and motive were added. Concerning the knit structures development, the researcher designed the knit structure at the actual production site of the knit fashion. A total of 5 pieces of knit structures were developed by asking a professional for programming and knitting. To the developed structures, the study added a multi-gauged effect, herringbone transformation effect, 3-dimensional surface effect, color effects, geometric patterns, lace penetration effect, and soft surface effect in a water-drop shape. In addition, the structures had differences in the added values by mixing various structures and diversely expressing color sense on the knitting line. This study proposes the direction for 21st century knitwear product design, through the development of a high value added knit structure.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.48-56
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• 2009

The purposes of this study were to segment knit wear consumers by their lifestyles and to examine knit wear purchase behavior among the lifestyle segments. The subjects of this study were female consumers who were residents in Seoul and metropolitan areas. The researchers distributed the questionnaires and the final sample of 357 was used for the data analysis. The statistical analysis methods used for the study were factor analysis, cluster analysis, ANOVA, Duncan test, and ${\chi}^2$-test. The results showed that the lifestyle factors had 6 dimensions: fashion, planned purchase, socially active, impulsive consumption, brand, and leisure/culture. These factors were categorized into four groups: brand oriented group, passive group, rational/social group, and fashion/impulsive consumption group. The results also showed that there were significant differences among the groups in regard to knit wear purchase criteria, knit wear image preferences, and other knit wear purchase behaviors. For example, brand oriented group considered design and brand name/fashion important as knit wear selection criteria, and the group preferred an elegance image and a modern image than did other groups.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.117-132
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• 2021

As the golfwear market grows rapidly and expands due to the influx of MZ generation golfers, competition among brands is intensifying, so it is necessary to plan knit golf wear products that are suitable for the consumer needs. The purpose of this study is to contribute to product planning by analyzing the design characteristics of women's knitted golfwear products among golfwear brands. First, the top 10 brands, as selected by Golf Magazine, were used for analysis. The selected brands include PXG, Titleist Apparel, Wide Angle, Pearlygates, Footjoy Golf, Castelbajac, Fantom, Ping, Le Coq Golf, and PGA Tour & LPGA. 692 women's cross-knit knitwear products were investigated based on design elements, such as flat tissue, gauge, color, pattern, image, and items. The characteristics of women's knitted golfwear showed a high utilizations of Jacquard and high gauge Intarsiafor pattern expression and a low variety of deformed stich. The proportion of achromatic colors is large, and many brands use point colors based on black and white. Brand identity is important, and brand letters, Monograms are frequently used, and the proportion of sportive and modern image in the products is high. With the increase of MZ generation golfers, the preferred design direction will change and gradually deepen.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.43-54
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• 2006

In the history of fashion, the category of knitted items was traditionally associated with ordinary clothing products like undergarments and socks. However, in a mere century Chanel has changed that idea by bringing into fashion consciousness items such as sports sweaters, jerseys, and suits, and so it has been necessary to upgrade this notion. As the needs of the times and new inventions have an inseparable relationship, knit fashion was also born with a close relationship with the zeitgeist of the time - the feminine movement, the rise of sports fashion and the world war - adapting itself up to the present time through continuous changes. Most brands are elevating knit from a mere decoration into a collection piece in a large number of collections every year. The number of brands that cannot exist without knit is increasing, such as Sonia Rykiel, Missoni, and so on. This essay is written with the purpose to study the birth, growth and future potential of knit items. The first stage concentrates on the age of knit's appearance (1910s-1930s). Contingent upon the collection of further data, this essay will be continued through the second stage (the 1960s - 1970s) and the third stage (after the 1980s).

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.127-145
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• 2012

In an effort to investigate the overall trends of knit fabrics in fashion trends books, this study analyzed the components(fabric, yarn, gauge, thickness, knitting structure, pattern, dyeing and finishing) of knit fabrics in fashion trends books by the years and seasons from the S/S season of 2002 to the F/W season of 2011. Analyzed in the study were total 883 knit fabrics including the knit samples in Nelly Rodi Knitwear and Promostyl Fabrics. Collected data were put to frequency analysis with SPSS 12.0. Group mean analysis was also performed for thickness. The research results were as follows: As for knit fabrics in fashion trend books by the years and seasons, knit fabrics were most used in 2004 with similar frequency of knit fabrics among the seasons. As for fabric composition of knit fabrics, the uses of blend fabrics were considerably prominent both in S/S and F/W seasons and recorded the highest level in the S/S season of 2003 and the F/W season of 2002. As for gauge composition of knit fabrics, S/S seasons saw the most uses of fine G of 20G or higher, while F/W seasons saw the many uses of 12G-18G, which showed the highest frequency in 2002. As for knitting structure of knit fabrics, the plain stitch was used most both in S/S and F/W seasons and recorded the highest level in the S/S season of 2011 and the F/W season of 2007. As for pattern of knit fabrics, stripes and solid patterns were used most regardless of seasons. As for dyeing and finishing of knit fabrics, non-processed fabrics were used most, recording high frequency in the early 2000s.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.89-102
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• 2004

Modern society is age of sports just as health and leisure became dominant concern, which has caused the fixation and development to sports wear considered as fashion for everyday dress. This paper focused on the development process and aesthetic characteristics of knit design expressed in the 20th century sports wear. The importance and direction of knit design in modern sports wear is expected. Style, items, fabrics, colors, details and top designers were analyzed in sports wear from the 1910' s to 1990' s. Sports wear can be categorized into two of the active sports wear and spectator sports wear. Since disappearance of division between ordinary wear and sports fashion in the 1970' s, the functional wear of leggings, cycle shorts, exercise clothes, leotard, and leg warmer appeared. Vicennial developments of synthetic fibers and new fabrics have caused the great changes in knit design. Colors were vivid in the 1950' s, metallic in the 1970' s and neon in the 1990' s. Sportive sense was expressed by various details. The dominant knit designers who expressed aesthetic characteristics to sports wear were Coco Chanel, Claire McCardell, Balenciaga, Andre Courrege, Pierre Cardin, Yves Saint-Laurent, Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan, and Giogio Armani.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제45권4호
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• pp.43-51
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• 2007

This study analyzed the knit wear trend, which has gained attention as a sensuous and luxury item, through collection magazines, and used the technique of hand-knit to produce and present the knit wear that was designed based on the study results. Accordingly, the purpose of this study is to raise awareness of the expansion of hand knit's new expression techniques and expression areas and to verify its possibility as a higher value-added product. The trends of hand-knit wear resulted from the analysis of collections divided into the following four groups, and the knit designs were also grouped accordingly: First was "The design using object." The trend survey showed the results that the form of drops or flowers was often used as a factor of object. Accordingly, as for the study design, the drop-knitting technique, which is one of the pattern knitting techniques, was used to present a design that employed drops as the object. Second was "The design matched with woven material." It is a way to emphasize aesthetic formativeness and at the same time to activate the area of knit design by matching woven material, which is different from knit in texture, with knit. This study presented a design that tried to combine knit texture and woven material by connecting denim material with various textures and colors. Third was "The design to express see-through." A sense of showing through knit wear was expressed through changes in the type of thread or knitting technique. In this study, the sense of see-through was expressed using piano wires and wool threads and through changes in the thickness of needle. Fourth was "The design to emphasize coloring." It was analyzed that regarding the production of hand knit, the method of coloring expression was to express points, lines and sides or to create harmony by changing the material's color or texture to show particular objects or shapes. In this study, a jacket was designed using the method to express points, lines and sides by changing the material's color.

• 복식
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• 제61권4호
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• pp.38-51
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to offer data that designers can utilize substantially, by developing creative materials in knit fashion through the analysis relevant to expression characteristics on the mixture in high low class culture, which were shown in knit fashion of contemporary women, as one of methods of pursuing a plan for being able to be appeared creative and unique knit wear. As for a method of this research, studied concept and characteristics on the mixture in high low class culture by preceding researches. And women's knit fashion was selected that is seen to be 3~18 gauge among the world's 4 collections from 2000~2008. The analysis was made with the analytical frame in mixture pattern, and the analytical frame in design element, and item. The results are as follows. The mixture of kidult element and high fashion was shown with characteristic of expressing humor and fun with graffiti, expression like character and cartoon, and fairy-tale fantasy through the exaggerated trifling article. The mixture of grungy element and high fashion was shown with the expression characteristic in the mixture of heterogenous pattern, and in tear, slit without the end treatment due to fraying the end strand in the knit fashion with basic stitch, patch work, fringing and tone-down gray, use of khaki and blue color, and match in opposite color. The mixture of underwear and high fashion was shown the expression characteristic with the emphasis on underwear line like volume up, or with the mixture of details such as pants in diverse lengths, mini skirt, underwear lace, and ribbon.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제31권1호
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• pp.91-106
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• 2023

This study examines how the concept of gender fluidity-viewing gender identity as a fluid and wide spectrum-is represented in modern knit fashion collections. The period spring/summer 2017-fall/winter 2021, when gender-related fashion keywords started attracting attention, was limited to the last five years, and the results of a case analysis focused on a total of 357 knit fashion photos are as follows. First, the androgynous compromise through the mixing of heterogeneous elements appears as a mix-and-match style due to the patchwork of heterogeneous materials and forms that borrow or share masculinity and femininity. Second, it was confirmed that the dismantling exaggeration caused by the destruction of the size and form of clothes was an avant-garde image that exaggerated the size or length of clothes or destroyed ideas and forms. Third, the exposed sensuality caused by the deformation of the fluid knitting technique was shown in the form of proudly expressing sexuality by exposing the body either using the cut-out technique or through the loose texture of the knit. Knit fashion can highlight decorative effects using handcrafted techniques and express a detailed or coarse sense of organization depending on the density. In addition, since it is possible to create a complex image by juxtaposing and mixing various knit structures, it was confirmed that it is a suitable material for expressing gender fluidity flowing between men and women in fashion.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.77-90
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• 2015

This study is to designed to provide foundation for knit design which can apply the thickness and flexibility of jacquard knit by analyzing and comparing mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard (normal jacquard, bird's eye jacquard, floating jacquard, tubular jacquard, ladder's back jacquard, blister jacquard, transfer jacquard) widely used in knit design to achieve the results. The sample was projected by using 7 gauge and SES-122S type computer knitting machine house tooth pattern with two colors were applied to 7 types of jacquard using Acrylic/Wool(30%/70%) $2/50.5^{\prime}s{\times}4ply\;yarn$ by Shimaseiki MFG., Ltd computer knitting machine. The mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). HV(Hand Value) and THV (Total Hand Value) were calculated by using the formula of KN-402-KT and KN-301-WINTER respectively. The measurements were evaluated by 0-to-5 rating scale. As result, the floating jacquard was found to have excellent drape, making it suitable for express feminine silhouette with its most flexible and smooth touch. On the other hand, bird's eye jacquard is adequate for a suit jacket and coat regarding its excellent volume and flexibility. Blister jacquard and tubular jacquard are thick, heavy and stiff knit and both are suitable for simple box-style design. Ladder's back jacquard, however, is more appropriate for expressing the design of feminine charm and voluminous design. Based on the result of this study, it is supposed to provide basic information for development of knit industry regarding jacquard knit by designing the creative knit wear with high production efficiency.