• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.43 no.3
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• pp.361-372
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• 2019

This study investigates the problems of fitness and motion suitability for Korean female military winter jackets (inner and outer) and provides data for new pattern development. We analyzed fitness and motion suitability by a questionnaire survey with 39 Korean female soldiers and a wearing evaluation with 8 subjects of the female soldeier's center size. The results of the study are as follows. 1. In the survey result on the fitness with female soldiers, fit of collar showed a score lower than 3.0 for the inner jacket and front interscye breadth, chest circumference, collar height on the outer jacket. The result on the motion suitability showed that both the inner jacket and the outer jacket were above 3.0 (moderate), indicating that the dissatisfactory factors were not large. 2. The wearing evaluation results with the subjects of central army female size, discomfort factor derived the chest circumference, neck circumference, item of the hem circumference and collar height on the outer jacket. This study is meaningful in evaluating the current military winter jacket of female soldiers and it is expected to be used as a basic data for future pattern improvement of military winter jacket for female soldiers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.5
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• pp.844-854
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• 2016

In order to understand the current state of production and pattern design of circular knitted jackets, this study selected 11 female clothing brands based from the "2012/2013 Korea Fashion Brand Yearbook" and interviewed the staff in charge of patterns at the companies. Polyester and polyurethane were found to be synthesized and used for the outshell of circular knitted jackets, alternatively natural fabric cotton or wool were synthesized with rayon. As for the structure of circular knitted materials, Ponte Di Roma knitting structure (a modified form of a double knit) was most often used. Surveying the use pattern and the parts for padding cloth, six responded that they used elastic padding cloth. As for circular knitted jackets with inner lining, elastic padding cloth was attached to all parts (front, back, side panel, and collar - except for sleeves) of the basic bodice pattern. Eight responded that they did not use a basic pattern when designing a pattern, which exceeds the majority. All respondents answered yes to the question on if there is any difference in designing a pattern for a woven jacket and a circular knitted jacket. It was found that they designed a pattern that considered shrinkage and elongation, which are the features of circular knitted fabric. Shrinkage and elongation were the features of a fabric material most considered when designing patterns for a circular knitted jacket.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.8
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• pp.946-957
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• 2003

This study aimed to suggest a simple and well-fitting flat pattern drafting method for a men's jacket. Four jackets in thick muslin were made from four different drafting methods utilizing a few measures as breast girth, center back length, and chest width, which were not much different from the drafting methods of woman's jacket. The appearance of the 4 jackets was evaluated by a pool of evaluators consisted of graduate students who had much clothing construction teaching experiences and their motion adaptability was evaluated by two wearers who belonged within the range of the average measures of the Korean male figure as reported from the 1997's Census for Standard Body Measure. A drafting method evaluated as the most well-fitting and well-functioning in general was chosen and modified to enhance the appearance and was reevaluated to confirm its fit improvement. As a result of this study, a new drafting method, simple and not much different from that of a woman's jacket pattern drafting method is proposed. Since this method is based on the minimal measures and ratios thereof, and is not as complicated as ordinary drafting methods for men's wear, the researcher expects that this drafting method allows more chances for the students to learn and understand men's wear more easily and comfortably.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.781-788
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• 2010

To work in the fashion industry which has entered the digital age, and in specialization and high-industrialization age, one needs to attain various skills required for the qualifications of a fashion specialist. For these, qualification certificate systems are enacted to nurture specialized technical personnel, and among these, a jacket pattern is selected from the practical examination of Western-style dress skill prepared for nurturing specialist who can design, cut, and sew women's clothing, to be compared and analyzed against the existing printed practical textbooks, technical books of making clothes which used as college textbooks, and local documents of theoretical study documents. The methodology of the research is to select 8 samples for the study, analyze the identity with the design, and then cut applying the identical dimensions and compare the measurements, and make the clothes using each cutting methods, and inspect to find the consistency with the design and made statistical analysis. As a result, we designed and made research patterns, and suggested a jacket pattern design to patterns simply that suits the design fast.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.395-407
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• 2008

As global interest in clothing spreads over the smart clothing which arouses high added-value in the apparel industry, this study is to develop a smart jacket with an electrically-vibrating device maintaining excellent appearance and comfort. The vibrating device has a massage function that could relieve muscle pain near shoulders and neck. The purposes of this research are to develop jacket pattern for men in their thirties considering body shapes and fashion trend, to develop a wearable device that is composed of motor and controller and integrate it into a jacket, and to assess the external appearance and functional satisfaction of the smart jacket through the wearing test. The results are as follows: 1. In order to develope an appropriate jacket pattern for men in their thirties, several patterns were assessed for their fitting comfort. The final pattern was completed after making alterations some parts, and showed high satisfaction as 3.6(on a five-point scale) in all categories. 2. A vibrating device was developed by connecting motor, controller, battery and switch. Developing this device, focus was maximizing the strength of motor and minimizing the heat generated from motor and controller. Snaps were placed between inner and outer cloth of jacket so that the vibrating device could be easily attachable and detachable. The motor was located around Trapezius where muscles often get stiff. A switch was designed to be used in selecting the modes of Strong, Weak, and Cross Tapping. 3. The wearing test was conducted to examine outer appearance, comfort for motion, and functionality of the smart jacket. The results of assessing outer appearance showed that the location for attaching the vibrating device was not noticeable but looked natural, and there is almost no change in outer appearance when the vibrating device operates. The result of assessing comfort of action revealed that wearer's satisfaction was high in all categories about activity, wearer's comfort, etc. The result also showed that wear's satisfaction for effects of vibrating massage, easiness in using the device, heat generation was not less than 3.5 in all categories except a category about noise.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.781-792
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• 2015

This study aims to develop a spring/fall motorcycle jacket for quick service transporter. Depending on the results of the previous research, this study produced the tested jacket which was improved in material, pattern, and design. For the tested jacket, 100% polyester fabric excellent in strength, durability and abrasion-resistance was selected as a major material, and Cordura was used as a partial material to improve the strength and abrasion-resistance of the sleeve side lines, elbow and shoulder areas. The retro-reflection material was applied partially in order to improve visibility of the jacket in the night or in a dark place. A total of 7 pockets were composed in the jacket for the sufficient storage spaces. The functional design elements such as the 2-way zipper and the placket at the center front, the action pleats at the upper part of back armholes, the pit-zip at armpit were applied. In addition, the sleeve pattern was bent with the shape of elbow curvature in time of driving and the back length of the jacket was lengthened 4cm. As a result of the appearance assessment, there was a significant difference from the existing jacket in all items but chest size, shoulder width, cuffs circumference, and jacket hemline circumference. In motion adaptability and field activity appropriateness assessments, the assessment grade for all items was found to be commonly higher than that of the existing jacket, and thus, the tested jacket was assessed to be suitable for a motorcycle jacket design for the quick service transporters.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.8
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• pp.1365-1375
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• 1997

Jacket is the basic formal dress for working women, and one of the most frequently worn by them. It has, however, some problems caused by movement, depending on how well it fits. To improve fitness of jacket, this study compared and evaluated the state of fitness objectively by employing a numerical system in relation with clothing and body. We made three experimental jackets based on the previous jacket patterns and used Moire Photo-graphy to measure the amounts of space between clothes and body from the overlap cross section map. The results obtained from this study were summarized as follows; 1. According to the measurement result of the pattern by using the One-dimension measurement, the amount of ease in girth item for pattern B was larger than the other two patterns. The amounts of space of each part showed the difference of the positions of princess lines, and the different sizes of the darts. 2. From the result of Moire Photography, the wearing shapes of the experimental jackets were influenced by the characteristics of somatotype. In addition, we could analyze the differences of the patterns with Moire Photography. 3. The amounts of space for waist part was larger than those for other parts. Pattern B scored the largest amount of space for all parts compared with pattern A and C. 4. For only waist part, there existed a significant difference in the average amount of space for the three patterns.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.569-580
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• 2015

The recent fashion market failed to satisfy the needs of female customers in their 30s who are demanding a slim jacket that makes the wearer look young and slim. Accordingly, the slim-fit jackets of domestic brands targeting the women in their 30s were collected to conduct look and movement fitting evaluations based on the standard somatotype, and a slim-fit tailored jacket prototype was developed based on the present findings. This research aims to increase the satisfaction level of the slim-fit jacket customers reflecting a variety of somatotypes of women in their 30s. The research process was developing jacket patterns fully reflecting the properties in terms of extra space and design lines for different somatotypes of women in their 30s based on the jacket pattern formulated through the advanced research, and then suggesting pattern design methods for the different somatotypes. In this sense, this research attempted to identify the problems concerning the slim-fit tailored jacket fitting for different somatotypes of women in their 30s. The main aim was to suggest ways to improve the customers' satisfaction level regarding the fit, and enable the manufacturers to produce a well-fitting jacket reflecting the peculiarities of each somatotype.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.13-28
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• 2010

This study is focused on the elucidation of efficient and correct marking methods by comparing and analyzing marker efficiency depending on the marking job condition such as interval of checking-pattern and marker orientation using woman's Jacket and Slacks. Research Method intended to compare the marking efficiency of Jacket and Slacks, check-less and check- patterned materials with the intervals of $1.5{\times}1.5cm$ and $5{\times}5cm$ were selected. First, in the comparison of marking efficiency depending on check-pattern interval, regardless of the direction of marker position, single-item makers and set-item makers, the efficiency of check-less materials was higher than those of check-patterned materials and increasing the intervals decreased marking efficiency and vice versa. Marking efficiency of Slacks was less influenced than marking efficiency of Jacket by check-pattern interval. Second, in the comparison of marking efficiency depending on the direction of marker position, regardless of check-pattern interval and number of maker pieces, the efficiency of nap-up-and-down position was higher than those of nap-one-way position. Third, the marking efficiency of single-item was more effective than one of set-item in all working condition except nap-one-way position in checkless materials.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.137-143
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to prove the work efficiency of PDS by measuring the work time on the process of pattern making of woman's tailored jacket. Also compared to the manual work time, PDS work efficiency is estimated according to experience difference. The YUKA CAD system was used. Through analysis of PDS Process, work time was measured by stop watch. Also the appearance of the 2 jackets was evaluated by a pool of evaluators consisted of graduate students and experienced professional modelist. The results were as follows: The work efficiency of PDS is higher than the work efficiency of manual work. There were significant differences of work time between work types in the expert and inexpert group. A study compared the work efficiency by PDS work type with those by manual work type according to experience difference and found that the work efficiency by PDS in the expert group was 25.3%, in the inexpert group was 35%. There were significant differences of work time between experience groups in PDS work, the work efficiency of expert group to inexpert group in the total pattern making time by PDS was 36.7%. There were no significant differences of appearance of tailored jacket between work types.