• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.12
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• pp.1933-1946
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• 2010

This paper is a comparative analysis of the $19^{th}$ century practice of indigo dyes and dyeing in Korea and England. From over hundreds species of indigo plants in the world, it was dyer's knotweed and woad that were cultivated in Korea; however, the only indigo plant grown in England was woad. Indigo dye was produced in the form of damp indigo sediment (jeon) in Korea; however, imported indigo (as a main dye) and couched woad (as an additional dye) were indigo dyes used in England. There existed three kinds of indigo vats, the ice vat, ash-water vat, and indigo sediment (jeon) vat, in Korea. The fresh leaves of indigo were used for both the ice vat and ash-water vat. The ice vat was very convenient for preparation, but had a weakness in the inability to produce a very deep shade of blue. The ash-water vat and indigo sediment (jeon) vat were in use for producing a very deep shade of blue. The indigo sediment Goon) vat was employed presumably only by professional dyers. The indigo vat practiced in England was categorized into two types; one was woad-indigo vat, and the other was an indigo powder vat prepared by using imported indigo rock. There was a tendency to adopt different kinds of indigo vats according to the material to be dyed. The woad-indigo vat was employed for the dyeing of wool. A few of chemical vats with imported indigo were adopted, especially for the dyeing of cotton. Indigo dyers in 19th century Korea were differentiated from the rest of the dyers. They managed the growing of indigo plants as well as the production of indigo sediment (jeon). Woad dyers in 19th century England handled woolen cloth as well as worsted and woolen yarn in general. However, they sometimes dyed silk skein as well. They produced several colors such as black, blue, slates, grays, by using both woad and imported indigo.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.149-157
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• 2010

After observing various changed colors by some dyeing conditions in case of the Indio and Indigo Pulberata Levis, we had below result. 1. Best reduction temperature for Indigo was $50^{\circ}C$, and the reduction temperature had an effect on level dyeing and dye-uptake. For the Indigo Pulberata Levis, best reduction temperature was $60^{\circ}C$, and best reduction time for Indigo was 20 minutes, for the Indigo Pulberata Levis was 30~40 minutes. 2. Both Indigo and Indigo Pulberata Levis showed high K/S without using alkali, but it was almost not possible to be dyed without reduction agent. The best amount of potassium carbonate concentration and soldium hydrosulfite concentration was $2{\sim}3g/{\ell}$ and $2g/{\ell}$ each for dyeing. 3. The best dyeing temperature for Indigo was $30^{\circ}C$ and $60^{\circ}C$ for Indigo Pulberata Levis. 4. In case of Indigo, K/S increased slightly at $5g/{\ell}$ concentration. Thus, $5g/{\ell}$ is efficient amount. However, it needed $50g/{\ell}$ to increase K/S for Indigo Pulberata Levis. It tells that we need a lot of Indigo Pulberata Levis for dyeing dark color. 5. Indigo dyed cotton looked more greener than silk. Since silk absorbs lots of red color, it looked strong red color. However, Indigo Pulberata Levis looked greenish on both cotton and silk. 6. Since the hue's range of Munsell's value was PB for both Indigo and Indigo Puberata Levis, we are able to know that red color's indirubin is contained as well as blue color's indigo.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.174-182
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• 2000

We prepared natural indigo/calcium hydroxide complex powder from tinctoria's leaf, according to the demand of developing new dyeing technique of natural fibre with natural indigo. FT- IR and UV/Visible spectra were operated to find the dyeing properties of synthetic indigo and natural indigo powder. Cotton, flax and silk fabrics were dyed with different pH, dye concentration and dyeing time. The colour yield of indigo dye was quite sensitive to dye bath pH and fabric. In synthetic indigo, the highest K/S value of dyed silk fabric was shown at near pH 9.0, and which of flax and cotton fabric were shown at pH 11.0. In other hand, in the case of natural indigo complex powder, the highest K/S value of dyed silk fabric was shown at near pH 8.0, and which of flax and cotton fabric were shown at pH 9.5∼pH 10. Mercerized cotton fabric dyed with natural indigo powder has a little antimicrobial activity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.96-104
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to investigate the antimicrobial activity, antimutagenic and anticancer effects and dyeing properties of the fermented indigo extract. The physiological effects of natural color extracts from colorant plants(gardenia, beet and indigo) were studied. The methanol extract of indigo showed an inhibitory effect on the growth of E. coli and Staph. aureus, and also showed a strong antimicrobial effect on Trich. mentagrophytes compared to others. The methanol extract of indigo showed antimutagenic activities against aflatoxin B1(AFB1) in the Ames test using Salmonella typhimurium TA 100. The proliferation of Clone M-3 mouse melanoma cells and A431 human epidermoid carcinoma cells was inhibited by the methanol extract of indigo. So we decided to use natural indigo for dyeing the fabrics because of those effects. Dried indigo leaves were fermented at variouss temperature and the fermented indigo was reduced by using alkaline(NaOH, Ca(OH)2) and glucose to dye the fabrics. The values of K/S fermented indigo showed the highest value when it was fermented at 3$0^{\circ}C$. The indigo fermented at 3$0^{\circ}C$ had the greatest number of total bacterial counts and we identified one of the main microorganisms as Aspergillus niger. This microorganism was responsible for the indigo fermentation and accelerated indigo fermentation. So it can be supposed to reduce the fermentation period of indigo by inoculating Aspergillus niger into the indigo leaves at 3$0^{\circ}C$.

• KSBB Journal
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.295-302
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• 2013

Indigo is utilized in various industries including textile dyeing, cosmetics, printing and medicinal products and its reduced form, leuco-indigo, is mainly used in these process. Chemical reducing agent (sodium dithionite, sodium sulfide, etc.) is preferred to use for the formation of leucoindigo in industry. In traditional indigo fermentation process, microorganisms can participate in the reduction of indigo and thus it has been known to reduce environmental pollution and noxious byproducts. However, in fermentation method using microorganisms it is difficult to standardize large scale production process due to low yield and reproducibility. In this study, we attempted to develop the indigo reduction process using microbial flora which was isolated from naturally fermented indigo vat or deduced by metagenomic approach. From the results of library analyses of PCR-amplified 16S rRNA genes from the traditional indigo fermentation vat sample (metagenome), it was confirmed that Alkalibacteriums (71%) was distinctly dominant in population. Some strains were identified after confirming that they become pure culture in nutrient media modified slightly. Four strains were separated in this process and each strain showed obvious reducing ability toward indigo in dyeing test. It is expected that the analyzed results will provide important data for standardizing the natural fermentation of indigo and investigating the mechanism of indigo reduction.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.48 no.3
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• pp.57-65
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• 2016

Indigo (Polygonum tinctorium L.) is a typical blue dye which had been used from ancient times. This study was going to shade the complicated traditional methods extracting indigo dye by the fermentation and producing as adsorbate on calcium hydroxide, which says so called as the 'Indigo lime'. Accordingly we were going to make indigo through the hydrolysis of the hot water extractives of indigo leaves simply. During hot-water extraction, ${\beta}$-glucosidase which required hydrolysis of the linkage between indigo and glucose was not activated. To achieve this goal, indican was acid-hydrolyzed to glucose and indigo. The acetic acid, citric acid, hydrochloric acid, and sulfuric acid were used for the hydrolysis of hot water extractives. The hydrolysis conditions of extractives performed in water bath at $80^{\circ}C$ for 120 minutes and in an autoclave for 120 minutes. In the acid hydrolysis of extracted indican by hot water, the indican yields of acetic acid and hydrochloric acid hydrolysis were higher than sulfuric acid in water bath. Also, the indican yield of hydrochloric acid hydrolysis was better than sulfuric acid in autoclave. The hot water extracted indican was confirmed by HPLC analysis and its structure was confirmed by UV-Vis and FT-IR spectroscopy, compared with isolated indigo and commercial synthesized indigo. This improved extraction and hydrolysis methods can be replace the traditional indigo making method.

• Korean Journal of Medicinal Crop Science
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.213-219
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• 2013

This study was carried out to find out the optimum method of preparation of indigo standard solution and its stability, and to investigate the indigo contents in Niram, blue dye extract, from a total of 7 indigo plants and 34 breeding lines of Persicaria tinctoria H. Gross. Proper solvent for indigo standard was dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO), and appropriate concentration was 1 mg of indigo in 10 mL of DMSO. Absorbance value of UV/Vis Spectrophotometer at 620 nm of standard solution was changed decreasingly 12 hours after the preparation of standard solution irrespective of the storage conditions such as temperature and light. Average value of absorbance of 8-fold diluted standard solutions prepared daily during 16 days was $0.210{\pm}0.005$, indicating the powder of indigo compound was stable chemically. Calibration curve was made for quantitative analysis of indigo of 7 Niram samples, and indigo contents ranged from 0.69% to 18.76% showing relatively larger variation. Across all 34 breeding lines, the range of indigo content was from 7.9 mg to 56.4 mg per 100 g of fresh leaves, averaging 25.2 mg of indigo content and showing a 47.7% coefficient of variation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.3
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• pp.359-370
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• 2011

This study analyzes the textiles design of natural indigo dyed products in Korea and Japan. In this study, a total of 556 Korean natural indigo dyed products, and 2,730 Japanese natural indigo dyed products were used for analysis. The subjects of this study were 556 natural indigo dyed products and 2,730 Japanese natural indigo dyed products selling natural indigo dyed products which were found using search engine keywords of natural indigo dyeing and natural dyeing. Research and analysis was treated regarding the products, items, patterns, and the representation techniques of the patterns. The results of this study are as follows. In the pattern used for natural indigo dyed products, 71.4% of Korean products have no pattern, but 77.1% of Japanese products have patterns. On the representation techniques of the patterns, Korean products used tie-dyeing and a dip patterned fabric. While in the Japanese products, the most frequent patterning techniques were paraffin dye, followed by tie-dyeing, yarn-dyed and weaving, screen printing, and yarn-dyed and knitting. Regarding the kinds of patterns for natural indigo dyed products, only 8 kinds of patterns were used in Korean products; however, over 50 kinds of various patterns were used in Japanese products. Most patterns in the Korean products were ion patterns made by tie-dyeing. While in the Japanese products, the most frequent patterns were stripe patterns, followed by flower, dot, and ion patterns. Based on these research results, the problems of the textile design of Korean natural indigo dyed products were that most of the products have no pattern, and even though there were patterns, they lacked variations between the products. While in the case of Japan, they used the traditional and modem patterns of various textile representation techniques.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.155-163
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• 2015

In dyeing cotton fabric with the Indigo Pulverata Levis, this research examined the effect of the sodium dithionite($Na_2S_2O_4$). For the separation of the Indigo-calcium hydroxide complex in the alkaline solution of the Indigo Pulverata Levis, the reduction with the $Na_2S_2O_4$ at $25^{\circ}C$ was more effective than the solution boiling. The concentration of Indigo in the cotton fabric increased with the increase of Indigo Pulverata Levis, but the concentration of indirubin did not increase particularly. The optimum temperature for the reduction was $60^{\circ}C$, and K/S value of dyed fabric decreased at over $60^{\circ}C$. The concentration of indigo and indirubin in the cotton fabric decreased as $Na_2S_2O_4$ concentration increased. In treating cotton fabric dyed with the Indigo Pulverata Levis by the $Na_2S_2O_4$, the concentration of indirubin decreased and the surface color of dyed cotton changed from purple blue to blue while the treatment temperature was getting higher.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.7
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• pp.736-747
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• 2011

This study investigates the current status and dyeing properties of various natural indigo powder dyes in the domestic market. Products from India, China, Europe are sold in the market and only a few manufacturers provide recommendation for the method of dyeing and information on the additives. Through the market research and the preliminary investigation on 21 products, 11 were selected for the dyeing experiment which include 3 Indian, 3 Chinese, 2 German, and 1 Pakistani origin indigo reduced powders, and 2 Indian origin dried indigo leaf powder. The two dyeing methods used were the precipitation method and the fresh juice method, both at $10^{\circ}C$, $25^{\circ}C$, and $60^{\circ}C$. Color difference, K/S value, and colorfastness of dyed cotton fabrics were examined. Indian reduced indigo powder showed the highest K/S value, deep dyeing, and the best color fastness. Chinese reduced indigo powder resulted in a more greenish and bluish color. Powders of dried indigo leaves were easy to use but resulted in a pale color due to low dye uptake.