• 복식
• /
• 제38권
• /
• pp.83-100
• /
• 1998

The purpose of this study is to figure out how stage costume of Peking Opera communicates what the character wants to inform to spectator. The stage costume means the clothing, shoes, headdress, accessory that the cast is worn for communicating personality of character. Stage costume not only reveals the character of new spirit who the director and the work is like to create, but also makes the style of play harmonizing with the atmosphere of the work. So, the stage costume in the play is a sort of symbol system that forms the depth of play. The stage costume of Peking Opera was formed on the basis of the Chinese traditional stage costume in the Qing period, however the style of stage costume was beautified the costume of Ming period and here contained the factors of successive costumes. But the stage costume of Peking Opera don't have the same rank system with real history costume and don't have demarcation according to period and history. Only it is that transformed and created the real history costume with Chinese fine view and made how they wear Chinese fine view and made how they wear the costume according to position, age, personality of character in the play. In the stage costume of Peking Opera, the color is cultural language that director can communicate to spectators and can inform spectator of sex, age, personality, position of the character. The color of the stage costume of Peking Opera reflects the principles of Yin and Yang and the five elements of the Chinese cosmogony. The pattern of decoration also makes the personality and characteristic of the character. The dragon pattern symbols the authority and majesty, so only the character of high position can use it. The pattern of tiger and leopard symbols bravery, so the military officer can use it. Civil officer decorates with the pattern of Japanese apricot, orchid, chrysanthmum, bamboo that symbols integrity and honor. The stage costume of Peking Opera communicates the identity of character with the special form of costume. Kanjien is a costume of the young priestess, Houyi is the Sunwukong'costume. Chayi is a costume of boatman. Lingzi, Sweixiu, Kaoqi is the props for the foramtive effect of stage costume, also they play an important part in expressing the emotion situation. In the result of study, we could know that the form, color, pattern of the stage costume and props of Peking Opera play important parts in communicating informations that let spectator can understand the play. So, the stage costume of Peking Opera is an‘picturizing costume’that the form, color, pattern of the stage costume is a sort of symbol system. It makes spectator feels actually the viewing Peking Opera.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 한국복식학회 2003년도 International Costume Conference
• /
• pp.64-64
• /
• 2003

In these days western costume became everyday clothing in most of countries and is expected to be remained in that way. Therefore, it is needed to analyze how the past western costume has expressed human body stereoscopically up to the present time in order to predict future style of costume and develope various costume designs. Additionally, the pattern making and needlework techniques that were achieved through investigating history of costume in aspect of Clothing Construction, will provide significant information and inspiration to not only amateur designers but also costume researchers.

• 복식
• /
• 제52권4호
• /
• pp.97-109
• /
• 2002

The purpose of this study was to examine volumes 1 through 51-8 of the Journal of the Korean Society of Costume in relation to past trends In content area of research reported, authorship, and funding source. Six subject matter areas were indentified: history of costume, apparel design and aesthetics, fashion marketing, social psychological aspects of clothing, clothing construction, textile science and etc. Of the 892 articles studies, history of costume research represented 40.1%(358). Studies which focused on apparel design and aesthetics increased in number as the journal matured. 51.8%(462) were authored by a sole individual. 48.2%(430) were authored by above two persons. Funding sources were indentified in 15.7%(140) of the 892 articles. College and university grants 72.9%(102) were acknowledged most frequently as a funding source.

• 복식
• /
• 제65권2호
• /
• pp.48-61
• /
• 2015

Chi-pao is a kind of traditional clothes; it is regarded as a national costume, playing an irreplaceable role in the Chinese history. As China developed, the strict requirements on dresses did as well. History is a double-sided mirror,; we can know the past and we can find the direction ifor future development. when it comes to reform and openness, China imports foreign culture and exports domestic culture as well. This essay uses the history of Chi-pao as the background, consults the reference to analyse the brand of Chinese domestic Chi-pao characteristics, summarize the fashionable trend. Recently, Chi-pao is worn in many kinds of important occasions such as foreign affairs, public performances and so on. The purpose of this essay is to analyze the current situation of Chi-pao, make Chi-pao more international, and show the Chinese history to the world.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
• /
• 제4권2호
• /
• pp.40-44
• /
• 2004

Fragrance-like style-is one of the intangible aspects of costume history that we often wish had been preserved. Garments were perfumed both to impart a pleasurable impression and to mask disagreeable odors from use or from production processes such as tanning and dyeing. Expensive gloves were traditionally perfumed, as well as lace collars, silk stockings and shawls. Both historical and modern attempts have been made to create scents that please the wearer and attract the oppoiste sex, while (preferable) also repelling osquitoes and moths! Unintentional perfuming also occurred, which we sometimes may be lucky to find in our museum collections. How do we describe and identify the transient odors of museum objects, and at what cost can they be preserved and presented for the public? This lecture includes samples of reconstructed historical scents presented in costume exhibitions at the Royal Danish Collections.

• 복식문화학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 복식문화학회 2000년도 International Costume Culture Conference
• /
• pp.44-45
• /
• 2000

• 복식
• /
• 제60권3호
• /
• pp.123-137
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study is contemplating and substantiating Korean Empire's court costume through relics and photos. Additionally, the meaning of the pattern of Mugunghwa as the national symbol in the court costume is considered. The results of this study are following. First, a phased introduction of western-style court costume was executed through Ulmi Reformation in 1895 and Court Costume Rule in 1900. U1mi Reformation was characterized by transitional reformation because newly introduced system and traditional costume consolidated in costume. Under Court Costume Rule, however, by accepting western-style on contemporary costume, modernized style was settled in every respect of form and matter. The court costume comprised bicorn, coat, vest, pantaloon, sword, sword belt, white collar and white gloves at audience with the Emperor. Second, by examination of the relics of Chigimgwan and Juimgwan, it was confirmed that the court costume was manufactured in foreign countries such as France and Russia on the basis of order. It was also identified by pictures that court costume was worn by diplomats dispatched. Third, the pattern of Mugunghwa in court costume was featured by embroidery of 6 petal pattern. And the pattern of Mugunghwa, as national symbol, has important meaning in view of history and national affection, while Japanese and European adopted the crest of the royal household. In summary, Korean Empire proclaimed modernized court costume institution to handle international relationship driven by West. It was uneasy reformation in adopting western court costume imported from overseas because its textile and style were completely different from traditional costume. However, the willingness of Korean Empire should be reevaluated in the history of Korean costume, in that Korean Empire established court costume proclaimed its sovereignty domestically and overseas, and that the pattern chosen as national symbol was that of Mugunghwa which is current national flower.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제10권6호
• /
• pp.633-647
• /
• 2002

The purpose of this study is to observe the symbolic meaning and the values of the costume which express bisexuality through the definition from a culture point of view. The research method is to contemplate the documentary records such as world history, art history and clothing history, and to recognize the symbolic meaning of a bisexuality in modern fashion design. A definition the word´man and woman´restricted the human being for a long time. This restrict is enforced by the costume, but this traditional fixed idea is retarded by the liberal sense of the human being and the design expresses a sex ambiguity This study inspects the sex ambiguity and the meaning of that through a cultural background and a historical costume. The results are as follows: The first, the cultural background about bisexuality is classified into the etymological point, the mythologic point. the art and philosophical point, the political and economic background, the mass media, and the custome and the regulation. A bisexuality is a concept in existence from ancient times. we have an open-minded attitude about bisexuality in the present than the past. The second, the function of costume is sex classification before 20th century, but since 20th century the costume expresses sex ambiguity. The third, the symbols of the bisexuality are the interminacy, the unity and the dismantling. The costume which expresses bisexuality means coexistence of male sex and female sex. this is a kind of motion to embody a ideal body of the human being. This study makes a contribution to recognize the dignity of human body and to understand the phenomenon of modern society.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제8권6호
• /
• pp.853-863
• /
• 2000

This study is planned to present the future direction of the study of Korean clothes through the realistic recognition of the changes of studying issues of each area of the related clothes. For this purpose, the writer of this thesis have collected, classified and analyzed those various kinds of papers and theses published in the professional magazines of clothes such as Journal of Korean Home Economics, Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, The Research Journal of the Costume Culture so that I might examine and study the main trend of the related study. The result of the study is as follows. 1. Since the first publication of Journal of Korean Home Economics in 1959 and Journal of the Korea Society of Clothing and Textiles, and Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, the study of clothes has been gradually increased. Furthermore, since 1990 the issuing times of various kinds of Journals have been continuously increased with the foundation of The Research Journal of the Costume Culture and Journal of Fashion Business. 2. Theses and papers published in the four greatest Journals of Korean Clothing and Textiles have been studies for the detailed classification and analysis of the data. According to the study, It is found that the theses in Journal of the Korea Society of Clothing and Textiles have actively studied textiles as they had studied before 1990s and those in Journal of the Korean Society of Costume have studied history of costumes and those in The Research Journal of the Costume Culture have studied the composition and science of clothes. 3. The order of studying subjects was 1) Design and Aesthetics, 2) Fashion Merchandising 3) Textiles, 4) Clothing Construction, 5) History of Costumes, 6) Costume Culture, 7) Socio-Psychology of clothing, 8) Others. Considering the above mentioned result of the study, most of the main fields of the clothing and textiles study have been studied continuously in balance since 1990 unlike the past although the past studies had been performed largely in some main fields only. And it was found that fields of clothing styles and clothing goods have been studied most actively since 1990s. 4. The studying field of Design and Aesthetics has showed to have the trend to be studied very actively since 1990s, which has utilized various relevant data with scholastic approach to psychology and aesthetics. Regarding Fashion Merchandising, the study of consumers decision process has been performed most actively. And theses on the international trades have been published considerably more than ever before, which resulted in gradual increase in gradual increase in the study of the fields related with global marketing, internet marketing, textile products exports, and overseas brands, etc. Regarding Textiles, the field of clothing sanitation and management has been studied more actively than that of clothing materials. In case of clothing construction, the study of physical styles and pattern making has been more active than the other related fields. Fields of socio-psychology of clothing and history costume have been a little reduced. Field of costume culture has been firmly rooted as an independent subject to be studied in the clothing related study. And study of the clothes has shown various trends of studies of ethnic & folk clothes, religious and ceremonial garments, linguistic & favorite approach to clothes and academic analysis of the data.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제1권1호
• /
• pp.17-34
• /
• 1999

Because the United States of America has a short history, they don‘t have a special traditional culture or costumes. Besides, America is a multi-people country, they couldn’t have a consistent culture or a traditional costumes. But even they have a short history, they are trying to make a new culture. America is searching for a representative culture, which are like festival costumes, regional costumes and costumes that are form the group of people, in there country and making it into their a convention culture. This thesis is about the costumes of the U.S.A.'s famous festivals, traditional and festival costumes that are differ from every other states and the traditional costume that they are making it righ