• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.110-122
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• 2001

The purposes of this study was to examine the present situation of merchandise assortment and informations in internet fashion shopping mall. Merchandise assortment dimensions were width and depth. Merchandise assortment factors for apparel were style, size, and color. Merchandise informations were investigated using price and fabric contents. The data were collected from 11 internet fashion site to investigate styles. colors, sizes. price and fabric contents. The data analysed with frequency. crosstab analysis, $\chi$$^{2}$-test. The results were as follow : 1. Upper items(37.5%) as T, knits, shirts, and blouses were offered more style than bottom items(13.5%) as skirts, pants. 2. The 36.4% of styles offered one color. Basic color as black, white, grey, beige, ivory was 38.1%. 3. The 54.4% of merchandises carried same size. 4. Fiber contents was made up of cotton(44.2%). hemp & rayon(22.5%), and synthetic (33.3%). 5. The 75.1% of merchandise was relatively low price of below 50,000 won, the 24.9% of merchandise was rather high price of more than 50.000 won.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.36-52
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• 2008

Writer Hong Myung-hee, author of the novel Im Kkeok Jeong, provided an excellent description of the costume customs of the Chosun era, based on an understanding of various historical texts and literature by practical science proponents, and experience gained from the Hong household of Pungsan, a noble family of high standing during the Chosun dynasty. However, there is a tendency towards descriptions of late Chosun era customs, rather than 16th century customs, with the intent of heightening the image of what most people felt to represent Chosun and its prestige, thereby generating greater reader sympathy. Therefore, information on the costume customs of the novel 1m Kkeok Jeong is analyzed and re-formed to fit with the temporal setting of the 16th century. By providing data to aid visual understanding and re-creation, the intent is to accept it as material for the rumination of our ancestors and their lifestyles in the 16th century. The novel provides a good description of Chosun economic customs, in which cotton and hemp were used not only as fabric for clothes, but also as currency. The trade value of cotton drapery or hemp drapery with dimensions of 5 strand density at a length of 35 ja per roll was designated as 5 mal (about 90 liters) of rice by national law, but the actual value varied depending on the production of rice. Also, it is possible to confirm the existence of sang po with dimensions of 3 strand density at a length of 30 ja per roll, or 2 strand density seochongdae cotton, which was used only as currency due to the rough quality. Characteristics of the Chosun dynasty, a class-based society, are described through distinctions of attire. The writer's intent regarding the symbolic nature of attire reflecting social position, a characteristic of the entire Chosun period, is analyzed with the presentation of visual material.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.161-171
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• 2022

Traditional tie-dyeing is widely implemented in the clothing handicraft culture in China, South Korea, and Japan. Since it was developed 2,000 years ago, it has become a popular method of fabric making in the world and is highly respected by fashion designers. Based on the existing traditional tie-dyeing methods, this study conducted specific research on the 3D printing technology of the SLS laser method and the micro tool design application method of the clamp-dyeing process. Through the experimental methods of this study, it proposes to use the "7000 Nylon" material, which is commonly used in 3D printing, to develop a new clamp-dyeing tool. This new tool can be widely used in the clamp-dyeing of fabrics, such as cotton, hemp, silk, and some chemical fibers. The applied method and principle can be consistent with the traditional clamp-dyeing method. Therefore, the innovation of tie-dyeing technology is the best protection measure for the development and inheritance of traditional fabric making. The continuation of artistic life needs originality, which is also the best response to market competition. At the same time, this new design of the clamp-dyeing tool has the characteristics of novelty, innovation, and rich changes, which aligns with the new fashion demands of current fabric design.

• 보존과학연구
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• s.17
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• pp.65-99
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• 1996

We exanmined the each effect of $NO_2$ and $SO_2$gas, the maincomponets of air pollutants, on the deterioration of 6 organic materials with Gasexposure cabinet. The organic materials were used 2 kind of papers(Korean paper, Oldbook paper) and 4 kind of textiles (Cotton, Silk, Hemp, ramie) in gas exposure experiments. In order to know how to change of physical conditions, the materials were exposed to 2000, 1000 ppm. h of $SO_2$dose, to 100 ppm. h of $NO_2$ dose at 65% RH. The color difference, tensile strength, elongation coeffient, mass reduction and fabric status of each materials were discussed the following below.1. The color difference of cotton and hemp was larger than that of silk and ramie in the presence of $SO_2$ gas. and the color difference of korean paper was less than that of the textile materials in the presence of $SO_2$ gas.2. The tensile strength of cotton fell suddenly at 100ppm.h of $SO_2$ dose and even became 56% of the unexposed cotton.3. The weight of 6 materials began to decrease in the presence of $SO_2$ gas.4. The tensile strength and elongation of the materials tended to decrease at 12.5ppm.h of $NO_2$ especially silk was the strongest tendency to decrease.5. Cotton, hemp and ramie were influenced by $SO_2$ gas more than by $NO_2$, but silk were influenced by $NO_2$ more thang by $SO_2$ at 10ppm.h of each noxious gas.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.52 no.4
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• pp.170-183
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• 2019

Fiber scutching refers to the process of extracting fibers from plants by separating or extracting fibers from the raw materials. As the definition of the term implies, the "Fiber Scutching" is performed on plants with advanced bast fiber as the primary material processing technique performed on plant materials. Some of the most popular phosphorus plants are ramie, hemp, flax, and the paper mulberry, which have a long history of cultivation and a wide range of distribution, making them very universal as a material supporting human life and culture. This study was described in Oju-yeonmunjangjeon-sango but was designed to re-examine the method of breaking dried stalks, which is currently unused in Korea, to examine the feasibility and characteristics of the technology. As a result of sampling and experimenting with hemp bast using the method recorded in the literature, hemp fiber was actually produced. The criteria for removing the shell from the hemp stem were the degree of discoloration and drying, and only when the stalk was completely discolored to yellow could segregation of the stalk from the shell be performed. The amount of sunlight and temperature were conditions that accelerated drying. However, if exposed for a long time, it is confirmed that hemp bast will be in a suitable condition to process, regardless of the amount of sunlight and temperature. 'Breaking of dried stalks', which utilizes the physical power of 'threshing with a flail' is considered a core process of the fiber scutching technique in 'Yukjin' in Hamgyeong-do. The bark and the core of the hemp were separated by tapping, the bast was thinly split, and the shell was peeled off, making it suitable for collecting with thread. The method of collecting the fibers by applying physical power causes downing on the fibers, which is to be generally avoided in the manufacture of bast fabric woven hemp or ramie. However, Hamgyeong-do's fiber scutching method seems to have applied this principle to the method of making fragile fabrics by using it in reverse. This method is distinct from the steaming or boiling of the stalks' in Andong, Korea, and it is similar to the Western method of spinning fabrics.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.22-35
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• 1998

The objective of this study was to investigate and to identify and to classify the fabric names concerning costume in the sumptuary laws of Silla in Sam Guk Sa Ki(三國史記). The important findings of this study can be summarized as follows: Various names of fabrics concerning costume in the sumptuary laws of Silla were found to be classified into ten categories of fabrics. They were as follows: (1) kye( ), (2) Su(繡), (3) Kum(錦), (4) Ra(羅), (5) Reung(綾), (6) Sa(紗), (7) Si( ), (8) Kyun(絹), (9) Myun Ju(綿紬), (10) Po(布). Ra(羅) in ten categories was the most various. The numbering orders shown above were the orders of degree of valuability and preciousness of the fabrics in Silla. Namely, (1) Kye( ) was the most precious fabric, (2) Su(繡) was the second precious one, (3) Kum(錦) was the third precious one, and so on. It was found that the orders of the degree of preciousness of fabrics were a system for differentiating social class and rank, or sex of the people. It revealed the ordering system of the degree of the preciousness of fabrics of Silla was derived from T'ang dynasty. The system of Silla and T'ang system were almost the same each other. Materials used to manufacture fabrics were of mainly three kinds; e.g., wool, silk, and hemp. In these three kinds of materials silk was the most common stuff, and it was seen under the various names of the silks.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.5
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• pp.141-153
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• 2014

Buddhist articles from various periods in the Vairochana Buddha statues, which are currently housed in the Haeinsa Temple's Supreme Buddha Hall and Beopbojeon Hall. This research concentrates on the artifacts found inside the storage boxes, which was placed inside the Buddha statues in 1490. A total of 24 pieces of fabric articles found inside the Virochana Buddha in Beopbojeon and 213 pieces from the Supreme Buddha Hall were examined. The types of textiles are as follows: bast fiber, silk, cotton, and union cloth. Bast fiber consisted of ramie and hemp. For silk, tabby woven with plain weave, spun silk, and thin tabby were found. And twill damask made with twill, Sa and Ra with the leno weave, and satin damask made with the satin weave were also found. Also the two Jeogoris and three Jogakbos were found, the one Jeogori was made with Hwan. The Buddhist articles in the Vairochana Buddha of Haeinsa have been preserved well and its colors have remained virtually the same from the time of its original placement. Therefore these articles are very important in understanding the textile characteristics, weaving techniques, dying techniques as well as traditional colors.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.41-46
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• 1984

Ancient Korean and China litteratures show us that it has been long since people from humbler classes to king most commonly used bast fabrics as materials of their cloth. According to the record of these ancient litteratures, highly developed fine bast fabrics and those woven in figures were used as tribute between ancient Korea and China. In this study we will make a brief research of the history of bast fabric culture from ancient times to the Korea Dynasty in which the bast fabric culture flourished and reached the summit of prosperity. After having compared the bast fabric culture of ancient Korea with that of ancient China in which the bast fabric culture developed very much and bast fabrics were used more commonly as materials of cloth than any other fabrics, we could come to conclusions as follows. 1. Names were given to bast fabrics according to the kinds of bast fibers, the degree of fineness and the containing of figures: Ma-po, Jeo, Jeo-po, Bag-jeo-po, Moon-jeo-po, Po and Se-po. The number of 'Seung' which indicated the degree of fineness was attached to the top of each name to show how fine they are. 2. While the bast fabric of 30 Seung is known to be the most fine one of the ancient China, in ancient Korea fine bast fabric of higher than 30 Seung was woven. This fact proves that the technique of weaving bast fabrics of the ancient Korea was more highly developed than that of ancient China. 3. In ancient China the highest Seung number of the ordinary clothes which were put on after putting off livery of grief was regulated to be 15. But in ancient Korea, Sil-la, it was regulated to be 28. Judging from this fact, we may say that the consumption level of the ancient Korean people in cloth was higher than that of the ancient China people. 4. The reason why in ancient Korea the technique of weaving bast fabrics was so highly developed is suppoed to be that the ancient Korean people preferred elegant, refine and simple taste in cloth. 5. The excellent bast fabric culture of the ancient Korea flowed into ancient Japan. It proves that Korea played an important part in the history of textile development of the world.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.18
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• pp.19-34
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• 2017

Analysis of the species of wood in the wooden materials and the chemical composition of the fabric of the clothing excavated from the tomb of Yi Jing (1580-1642) has determined that the wooden materials, including the coffin (內棺, naegwan), burial chamber(外棺, oegwan), chilseongpan(七星板, bottom-lining board), and fan-shaped slats were made of pine(Pinus densiflora). The analysis of the fabrics suggested that the cloth attached to the fan-shaped slats, the funeral banner with inscriptions, and the five pouches for the corpse (五囊, onang) were all made of silk. The jacket was made of plain-weave cotton, while the inner and outer cloth of the socks were made of cotton and hemp, respectively. Among the silk items, the pouches for the left and right feet (constituting the five pouches for the corpse) were made from a satin-weave figured silk, while the other silk items were made of ju(紬), or plain-weave silk fabric. Infrared analysis revealed that the fan-shaped slats were decorated with cloud patterns across the entire surface, while the funeral banner and the five pouches for the corpse bore ink inscriptions.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.759-769
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• 2001

The principal purpose of this study is focused on the fabrics used in Kaya period by investigating the imprinted fabrics on the remains of the old tomb of Dohang-ri and Jeesan-dong which were built around the late 4th century to the late 6th century. Most of the remains are plain weaved, however there is one remain that 4-end complex gauze with patterned, and the other is weaved with geometrical pattern which were plain weave with 2 · 1 twill and 3 · 1 twill. The imprinted fabrics that had twists had S twists only. Of all the fabrics that were examined, the most loose one had the density of 8 × 6/cm, the most fine fabric had the weft density of 91.8 strands/cm and the warp density cannot be counted. It is No. 416 of Doharg-ri tomb that has the highest ratio of density as 3.15. All the fabrics observed by SEM and Polarizing Microscope are hemp.