• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.22
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• pp.61-70
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• 1994

the purpose of study is to grasp the actual state of the textiles of Kojosun, Booyeo and Kogooryeo, by examining and studying about the excavated article of the textile of the Booyeo Age which was being gamered in the Research Institute of Study of antiquities of Civilization of gilimsung without being analyzed and examined after being excavated at September in 1990 and 1993, the textile of Kojosun Age wich was excavated and examined at East and North Gilimsung in China and the textile excavated and examined at the Kogooryeo grave at jiban China. 1. The kinds of textiles of Booye Age are warp kum plin weave silk plain weave bang gong Sa, and drawn and dyed textile, It is deemed that the real state of keum, Jeung and Hwi in the old literature of Sam guk Ji was grasped. 2. It emerges that more detailed wool than the wool fabric of China area of the same age was manufactured as the textile of Kojosun Age. hemp cloth corresponds to 12 Seung, in converting into fabric width of 50cm. 3. Keum was examined and reported as the textile of Kogooryeo Age and the real state of Woonkeum of Kogooryeo Age was grasped through "Wang ja moon keum" of Keumjang of mural of South and North I room of the grave that the same keum was excavated. The real state of dyed textile of hemp was grasped as the red hemp cloth was examined. Moreover the real state of development of advanced technique to weave with machine appeared by the grasp of inclination of loom with reed of Kogooryeo.Kogooryeo.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.31-38
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• 1987

This paper aims to examine the velocity of water absorption of cotton, hemp, and T/C fabrics sized by rice, wheat, potato, corn flour and pp.V.A.. Experimental variables such as the concentration of sizing agents, the moisture regain of unsized fabrics and the ironing temperature showed the following results. 1. When the fabrics were sized, the velocity of water absorption increased according to the order of corn, rice, potato, wheat flour and pp.V.A. for cotton fabrics, of corn, potato, rice, wheat flour and pp.V.A. for hemp fabrics, and of corn, wheat, rice, potato flour and pp.V.A. for T/C fabrics; corn flour showed the highest velocity of water absorption and pp.V.A. did the lowest among all the others mentioned above. 2. The higher fabric density, the higher velocity of water absorption. The finer the count of fabric yarn, the higher velocity of water absorption. 3. The material of sized fabrics most affected the velocity of water absorption than other factors of those. 4. To a certain extent, the higher the concentration of sizing agent, the higher the velocity of water absorption. 5. The fabrics with moisture regain of 20% before sizing showed the highest velocity of water absorption. 6. The ironing temperature after sizing fabrics mentioned below showed the highest velocity of water absorption; 180$^{\circ}C$ for cotton, 200$^{\circ}C$ for hemp, and 160$^{\circ}C$ for T/C fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.7
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• pp.35-47
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• 2001

This is a research about the fabrics attached to the remains of the Okjeon old tomb which was built around the early 5th century to the mid of the 6th century. Most of the remains have one kind of fabric attached to them, but there are cases where different sorts of fabrics are attached, where one kind is attached in layers, and there are also cases where the layer is made of different types of fabrics. Although they are made of warps and wefts with no twists, there can be an S twist on the weft or on both the warp and weft, and only one Z twist can be seen. There are 81 fabrics of plain weaved, one of transformed plain weaved and five 4-end complex gauze in these remains. The sparsest plain weaved fabric has the density of 7.4 strands/cm, while the most dense fabric has the density of 148.2$\times$129.1 strands/cm and 0.046$\times$0.061/mm thickness in thread. All the fabrics observed by SEM are hemp except one silk.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.7
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• pp.41-53
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• 2012

Hwangnamdaechong Tomb (The 98th tomb in Hwangnam-dong), one of the royal tombs located around the area of royal tomb of King Michu in Hwangnam-dong, Gyeongju, is currently designated as Historic Site No. 40. It is assumed that Hwangnamdaechong Tomb is a royal tomb of the early 5th century. This study aims to examine the fabric relics excavated from Hwangdamdawchong Tomb and currently housed in Gyeongju National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage. The types of fabrics excavated from Hwangdamdawchong Tomb include plain silk, warp-faced compound woven silk, and hemp cloth. Most of these fabrics are adhered to metal products that became rusty. Plain silk found in Hwangnamdaechong Tomb can be divided into four types by its weaving method. Geum excavated from Hwangnamdaechong Tomb is typical Gyeong Geum that uses colored warp for its base and pattern. It is plain Gyeong Geum that the binding weft and warp is plain woven. Although there are a lot of Gyeong Geum fabrics whose colors are hard to define due to yellowing after long years, there are still many fabrics whose color such as purple, red, blue, and green can be identified. As literatures have shown that p cloth as well as silk were frequently woven during Silla dynasty, tremendous amount of hemp cloth was excavated. Most of the hemp cloth has S-twist in the warp and 8-12 seung degree of delicacy.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.47
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• pp.89-100
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• 1999

This study was carried to a textile conservation process included washing effect fiber analysis such as fiber identification fabric density and thickness color fading and of extracted soils. the following results were obtained. 1. AS a result of investigating to fabric surfaces by S.E.M all of cleaning methods wet cleaning-solvent cleaning in charge system were effective to remove soils from fabrics. 2. The buried fabrics were made of silk few of them were cotton ramie and hemp. 3. According to fabric density and thickness used fabrics were almost medium weight fabrics. 4. Low values of L, a, b indicated that the colors of these fabrics were faded to yellow and brown. 5. The soil components were hydrocarbon-alkane group alkyl alcohol and ketone group.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.61-69
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• 1999

The dyeing experiments were done by using tannin pigments and herbs for natural fabrics such as ramie, hemp and silk. The anti-bacterial ability and color fastness were examined for dyed fabrics. Dye materials containing tannin pigment such as oak tree leaf showed rich dyeing on ramie, hemp, and silk fabrics when the pH of dye solution is lower as well as the dyeing temperature is higher. In crimson dyeing, the colour of fabric showed red-purple when the crimson pigment was extracted at 40$^{\circ}C$, while yellow-red when extracted above 70$^{\circ}C$. The colour fastness of dye materials containing tannin pigment was excellent showing 3~4 grade or above, while most of those derived from chinese medicine showed poor colour fastness of below 3 grade. The anti-bacterial ability of dye materials derived from chinese medicine was high, since the sappan wood fabric showed low bacteria reduction rate.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.52 no.2
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• pp.220-239
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• 2019

According to the National Currency (國幣) article in GyeongGukDaeJeon (經國大典), the ChoSonT'ongPaeJiIn (朝鮮通幣之印) was a seal that was imprinted on both ends of a piece of hemp fabric (布). It was used for the circulation of hemp fabric as a fabric currency (布幣). The issued fabric currency was used as a currency for trade or as pecuniary means to have one's crime exempted or replace one's labor duty. The ChoSonT'ongPaeJiIn would be imprinted on a piece of hemp fabric (布) to collect one-twentieth of tax. The ChoSonT'ongPaeJiIn (朝鮮通幣之印) was one of the historical currencies and seal materials used during the early Chosun dynasty. Its imprint was a means of collecting taxes; hence, it was one of the taxation research materials. Despite its value, however, there has been no active research undertaken on it. Thus, the investigator conducted comprehensive research on it based on related content found in JeonRokTongGo (典錄通考), Dae'JeonHu-Sok'Rok (大典後續錄), JeongHeonSwaeRok (貞軒?錄) and other geography books (地理志) as well as the materials mentioned by researchers in previous studies. The investigator demonstrated that the ChoSonT'ongPaeJiIn was established based on the concept of circulating Choson fabric notes (朝鮮布貨) with a seal on ChongOseungp'o (正五升布) in entreaty documents submitted in 1401 and that the fabric currency (布幣) with the imprint of the ChoSonT'ongPaeJiIn was used as a currency for trade, pecuniary or taxation means of having one's crime exempted, or replacing one's labor, and as a tool of revenue from ships. The use of ChoSonT'ongPaeJiIn continued even after a ban on fabric currencies (布幣) in March 1516 due to a policy on the "use of Joehwa (paper notes)" in 1515. It was still used as an official seal on local official documents in 1598. During the reign of King Yeongjo (英祖), it was used to make a military service (軍布) hemp fabric. Some records of 1779 indicate that it was used as a means of taxation for international trade. It is estimated that approximately 330 ChoSonT'ongPaeJiIn were in circulation based on records in JeongHeonSwaeRok (貞軒?錄). Although there was the imprint of ChoSonT'ongPaeJiIn in An Inquiry on Choson Currency (朝鮮貨幣考) published in 1940, there had been no fabric currencies (布幣) with its imprint on them or genuine cases of the seal. It was recently found among the artifacts of Wongaksa Temple. The seal imprint was also found on historical manuscripts produced at the Jikjisa Temple in 1775. The investigator compared the seal imprints found on the historical manuscripts of the Jikjisa Temple, attached to TapJwaJongJeonGji (塔左從政志), and published in An Inquiry on Choson Currency with the ChoSonT'ongPaeJiIn housed at the Wongaksa Temple. It was found that these seal imprints were the same shape as the one at Wongaksa Temple. In addition, their overall form was the same as the one depicted in Daerokji (大麓誌) and LiJaeNanGo (?齋亂藁). These findings demonstrate that the ChoSonT'ongPaeJiIn at Wongaksa Temple was a seal made in the 15th century and is, therefore, an important artifact in the study of Choson's currency history, taxation, and seals. There is a need for future research examining its various aspects.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.131-142
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• 2008

One of the major fashion trends is the naturalism and ecology-conscious trend. The natural looks required in the trend require somewhat random distribution of yarn linear density, which results in irregular appearance along the yarn. This is a technically challenging work of producing yarns that look natural far from being artificial yet maintaining the intricately aesthetic randomness without causing process disturbances. This study focused on the characteristics of fabrics made of natural cellulosic fibers including hemp, ramie, flax, and polyester fabrics. Image analysis of the fabric samples included area measurement of yarn specimen, FFT and inverse FFT. Measurements of bending resistance, thickness, air permeability, and weight were also implemented to interpret the structural differences.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.1 s.110
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• pp.93-104
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• 2007

This study is considered about the fabrics culture of Baekje Period by analyzing the fabrics pieces at a inner part of the It-bronze shoes found at the tomb of King Mu-ryeong in 1971 AD. The analysis methods of the fabrics pieces are a photographing of fabrics pieces surface by VMS, Digital camera(Nikon Coolpix 995) and the analysis of samples by SEM, XRD and FT-IR. It is assumed this fabrics pieces are the inner shoes, which consisted of compound woven silk at outward, some of tabby and a hemp at inward and the braids for decoration, of the gilt-bronze shoes. The features are as follows. 1. All of compound woven silk are the warp-faced compound tabby of plain fabrics and the density is various from high to low one. Compound woven silk which is attached the gilt-bronze shoes of the tomb of King Mu-ryeong weaves in high density by a thick thread. The fibers material of compound woven silk prove to be a silk by the analysis of wrap samples by SEM, XRD and FT-IR. 2. Tabby are excavated under the condition which attached on reverse side of compound woven silk. Those ran classify two types. First, the fine weaving by high density of wrap and weft. Second, the loose warp weaving with one warp and some of weft. 3. Hemp is almost ramie by SEM analysis and the density is different. Ramie which supposed to be attached Guem has the very low density. In addition to, Ramie pieces, excavated in condition and weaved finely, proved the conspicuous weaving skill in Baekje period. 4. Various kinds of braid are found and these ones classifies by fiber material and entwining way. Two types out of these are the one of silk thread, decorates the upper, middle parts of compound woven silk shoes and the other of hemp thread, decorates the lower parts.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.30
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• pp.1-22
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• 2023

This study aims to document the conservation treatment of the fine-hemp official headgear housed by the National Museum of Korea, and to reconsider its existing name following the restoration of the original form of the damaged cultural heritage asset. The headgear consists of a single inner frame with a vertical line at the front, a single outer frame surrounding the inner frame, and a double-layered headband that spans the circumference of the wearer's head and joins the inner and the outer frames. This study applied a conservation treatment to the men's undyed hemp headgear of the Joseon Dynasty in order to remove contaminants and foreign substances on the surface and repair the partially deteriorated and damaged fabric, thereby restoring and stabilizing the original shape and preparing it for exhibitions. The hemp headgear was sewed both by hand and with a sewing machine. Although its overall composition and style are similar to the same type of official headgear from the Joseon Dynasty, the use of a sewing machine supports the assumption that it was produced in the early 1900s. This study identified similarities between the overall composition and shape of the fully-preserved hemp official headgear and those of the jangbogwan, a type of men's official headgear worn by Confucian scholars as part of their everyday attire, and compared it with the shape of jangbogwan seen in documentary records, illustrations, prior research, and portraits from the Joseon Dynasty, as well as with the characteristics of extant jangbowan artifacts, eventually concluding that it is appropriate to classify and name the headgear as a jangbogwan.