Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science (한국잠사곤충학회지)

Korean Society of Sericultural Science (한국잠사학회)
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Dyeing of Treditional Fabrics with Natural Dyeing

전통직물의 천연염료 염색에 관한 연구

  • Chung, In-Mo (Department of Sericulture & Entomology National Institute of Agriculture Science & Technology, R.D.A.) ;
  • Lee, Yong-Woo (Department of Sericulture & Entomology National Institute of Agriculture Science & Technology, R.D.A.) ;
  • Woo, Soon-Ok (Department of Sericulture & Entomology National Institute of Agriculture Science & Technology, R.D.A.)
  • 정인모 (농업과학기술원 잠사곤충부) ;
  • 이용우 (농업과학기술원 잠사곤충부) ;
  • 우순옥 (농업과학기술원 잠사곤충부)
  • Published : 1999.06.01
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Abstract

The dyeing experiments were done by using tannin pigments and herbs for natural fabrics such as ramie, hemp and silk. The anti-bacterial ability and color fastness were examined for dyed fabrics. Dye materials containing tannin pigment such as oak tree leaf showed rich dyeing on ramie, hemp, and silk fabrics when the pH of dye solution is lower as well as the dyeing temperature is higher. In crimson dyeing, the colour of fabric showed red-purple when the crimson pigment was extracted at 40$^{\circ}C$, while yellow-red when extracted above 70$^{\circ}C$. The colour fastness of dye materials containing tannin pigment was excellent showing 3~4 grade or above, while most of those derived from chinese medicine showed poor colour fastness of below 3 grade. The anti-bacterial ability of dye materials derived from chinese medicine was high, since the sappan wood fabric showed low bacteria reduction rate.

모시, 삼베 및 견직물의 천연염료 염색 중 탄닌색소 함유 염료재료, 한약재 염료재료를 이용한 염색방법 구명 시험과 염색 후 항균성검증과 염색견뢰도를 측정한 결과는 다음과 같다. 가. 탄닌색소를 함유한 상수리나뭇잎, 호두외피, 밤송이 등의 추출액을 염색할 경우에 모시, 삼베, 견직물은 pH가 낮을수록, 또한, 염색온도가 높을수록 염섹직물은 짙게 염색되었다. 나. 홍화 염색에 있어서 홍색색소 추출온도가 40$^{\circ}C$에서는 염색 직물의 색상은 자주색(RP), 70$^{\circ}C$이상에서는 주황(YR)색상으로 변화되었다. 다. 염색견뢰도는 탄닌계 염재 및 쪽은 3~4급 이상으로 우수하였으며, 한약재 염재는 대부분이 3급이하로 불량하였다. 라. 주요 한약재 염재의 항균성은 직물별로도 차이가 있지만 소목의 균감소율이 낮기 때문에 항균성이 높았다.

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