• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.50 no.3
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• pp.44-63
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• 2017

'Bukpo' is called 'Tongpo' or 'Balnaepo,' which respectively mean hemp fabric that goes into a small bamboo tube and women's table utensil 'bari' in Chosen. It is fine hemp fabric produced in Yukjin, Hamgyeong province. Korea has been divided into North and South since the Korean War in 1950. As it is hard to get information about Northern life style or their traditional technology, their hemp fabric production is also left unknown. This study demonstrates characteristics of the production of 'Bukpo' through "Ojuyeonmunjangjeonsango", the only document that marked about 'Bukpo' making process of the late Chosen dynasty. It aims to analyze the transition of the technique and the meaning by comparing the characteristics of the production of 'Bukpo' with the modern era's documents. In this process, I discovered that the hemp fabric production technique at 19th century shares some sort of similarities with that of Europe or Chinese Miao(hmong). But the hemp fabric production technique changed before the 20th century. The evolution of Northern hemp fabric production technique can be a good example to examine the context of the traditional craft technique.

• Journal of the Korean association of regional geographers
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.135-154
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to clarify the reason of the change of production-and-marketing system and of the regional division. The data for this study were collected by administering interviews with people engaging in hemp fabric industry: namely, craftsmen and managers in the production and marketing of "hemp fabric" handcraft. The summary of this study is as follows: First, the hemp fabric industry is a main subsidiary business of agriculture in Andong. The process of making hemp fabric heavily depends on manual labor. The process is divided into five stages: namely, cultivating hemp, pre-reeling, reeling, weaving, and colouring. Second, Andong "hemp fabric" handicrafts industry had been continuously growth until the late 1960s. During the period of Japan colonization, it was under boom condition: while the other traditional fabric industries were declined. In the 1970s, the decrease of the demand of hemp fabric was the result of mass production of substitute goods on factory system: while, in the 1980s, the growth of per capital income play an important role in bringing about the increased demand of hemp fabric. Third, in the 1980s. production-and-marketing system was changed as the result of the effort to improve the quality and the process, the advanced age of craftsmen, and the weak function of existing marketing systems. The social division of labor within the district is well developed between cultivating hemp, reeling and weaving. The social division of labor is also found in the partly process of handcratfs, and between the production and marketing. The social division of labor between production and marketing is not strongly developed to establish a reliable enterprise that develops a new product and opens a new market. Fourth, the spatial boundary of the production of hemp fabric handcrafts becomes limited into a special region based on the regional specialization of hemp cultivating and the differentiation of utilization of labor.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.62-71
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• 2023

Recently, interest in natural fabric materials that are not harmful has increased, and hemp is being studied as a new eco-friendly product. This study produced hemp fabric with improved flexibility and increased antibacterial properties by blending it with Hanji yarn. Various weaving methods were proposed to overcome the rough physical properties of hemp, and the functions of the developed products were evaluated through antibacterial tests. The mixing ratios of hemp and Hanji yarns was 50% hemp: 50% Hanji weft, 70% hemp: 30% Hanji weft, 30% hemp: 70% Hanji weft, and 100% hemp. Overall, the higher the ratio of Hanji yarn, the higher the fastness property, and the higher the ratio of hemp yarn, the higher the flexibility of the fabric, which was evaluated to be comfortable to wear. The 99.9% antibacterial properties of hemp products were considered to contribute to maintaining the health of modern people. Owing to its high intensity and high air permeability, it is considered highly usable in the production of children's clothing with a lot of activity. It was evaluated as an advantage that the disadvantage of hemp, which was limited as a material for summer clothing, was broadened to use for all seasons due to the fusion of Hanji. Otherwise, low consumer satisfaction as an outdoor wear is a disadvantage because hemp products had low elasticity and wrinkles.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.168-181
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• 2004

This research on the present state of production and circulation of boseong-sambae, based on the materials, has been collected and arranged through the survey for one you, 2003. Boseong-sambae, the hemp fabric produced at Boseong, hold 35% of nationwide production volume and 50% of circulation volume. The products of hemp include hemp fabrics, shroud, contemporary Korean dresses and other household articles. Dried hemp skin, hemp thread and hemp fabrics are traded at the fair held in every five days, mostly by direct transactions which is trusted between the producers and consumers. A bolt of boseong-sambae includes 20 ja(a Korean foot, 60cm in length) of hemp fabrics in breadth of 35cm. The price of a bolt is approximately 2∼3 hundred thousand won. They are endeavoring to revive hemp fabric that the image was lost due to the cheap and coarse fabrics woven with Chinese thread since the latter half of 1990's. The advanced countries have invested positively in this business because hemp is an environment friendly material. Thus, a strong national support is demanded in this field facing a crisis due to the inundating of coarse hemp products from China, and the aging problem of the initiate, the reason of the discontinuation of the inherited technique. Through this research understanding tire present station and the problem of hemp production, the future research will be followed expecting the Renaissance of the Korean traditional hemp fabrics.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.86-98
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• 2009

The fashion industry saw the emergence of environment-friendly and natural fabric materials recently. The naturalism trend has established sectors in the textile and fashion industry also. Ramie and hemp have long been favored fabric materials in Korea especially for summer. The hand-related mechanical/physical properties of the fabric specimens were analyzed using a fabric objective measurement system, KES(Kawabata Evaluation System). Subjective evaluation was also implemented based on a series of selected adjectives. Studies on natural dyeing methods are important since the establishment of scientific approach is needed in terms of environment and human safety along with the reproduction of traditional natural dyeing methods. In this study, linen, ramie, hemp, and cotton/polyester/linen union fabric specimens were used for the natural dyeing using Rubia akane Nakai with the mordant of gallnut. ${\Delta}E$ values of dyed fabric specimens, mordanted and dyed once using Rubia akane Nakai, increased significantly compared to those of repeatedly dyed fabric specimens without mordanting.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.10-15
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• 2009

A mixed bi-functional reactive dye has been applied to the cotton and the cotton/hemp blend and their dyeing and fastness properties were compared. The cotton/hemp blend exhibited higher exhaustion values and better build-up property than cotton, presumably due to the lower crystallinity. Hence, the reproducibility of dyeing of hemp is expected to be excellent. Fastness properties of reactive dyes on cotton and cotton/hemp blend are found to be almost identical. The results obtained suggest that hemp in cellulosic fabric could be used as an important alternative to universal cotton in cellulose fabrics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.190-197
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• 2024

With increasing global interest in environmentally friendly materials and the consequent rise in demand, there is a growing need for alternatives to synthetic fibers, which can cause skin diseases and other side effects. The fashion industry is emphasizing material sustainability owing to concerns about increasing carbon emissions. Moreover, consumers express a strong desire for ecofriendly and sustainable materials. Therefore, clothing brand companies are developing eco-friendly products to enhance their corporate image. Hemp fibers are recognized for their functionality and are utilized as crucial materials in the development of eco-friendly products by global fashion companies. In this study, we produced socks that effectively improve foot health using hemp stem bark extract fibers and demonstrated the positive efficacy of natural fibers through functional and wearability evaluations. Hemp stem bark extract fibers showed 99.9% antimicrobial effectiveness against bacteria responsible for sweat-induced bacterial proliferation and odor, when blended with lyocell fibers and woven into fabric to manufacture socks. Wearability evaluations of these terry cloth socks confirmed a reduction in foot odor and fatigue among the participants with a consumer satisfaction of 4.63/5. These findings confirm the effectiveness and positive impact of the natural antimicrobial properties of hemp fibers and terry cloth structure in improving foot health.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.27-38
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• 1985

In KOREA, the history of weaving is so long even in prinitive, there are the traces of fabric emmision using Spindle already in the Neolithic age. And coming up to the period of Three States, becoming active of cultivation of fibers, it can be known the variety of kinds and the production of fine products by improvement of new method of weaving using weaving machine. In the period of shilla state, there is a record of making the fine fabrics with 28 bracts. But wearing of silks fabrics was limitted for only the nobility and common people were wearing native thick hemp clothes. Also in the period of Korea state, they were wearing the hemp clothes by cultivation of hemp. The good quality products were worn by the King or the nobility and women in KOREA made their best with whole efforts to pay to the authorities with woven products of hemp clothes, so in the 14th year of King Chung- Ryul, King prohibited the presentation of fine hemp clothes by his order. By the end of KOREA state, before the production, common people was mainly wearing the hemp clothes. Coming up to the Kingdom of Chosun the sericulture was promoted by establishment of the sericulture encouraging low. Therefore the working hours of women were highly increased. The products of Song-do, Chin-ju for cotton clothes, those of Han-san-the same now as in old times-for ramie clothes, those of Han-Kyung province and An-dong for hemp fabrics were estimated as the best qualities. And the hemp clothes of Kang-won province is not so fine but is very useful and famous for mourning clothes and summer clothes for the farmer. It is true that our history of weaving was begun with hemp as a continous and precious friend of common people during all the historical periods-even though for a while it went backward because of chinese silks.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.229-233
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• 2004

Andongpo, 100% Korean hemp fabric was treated with the glyoxale resin type finishing agent and/or the soluble urethane type finishing agent to determine the optimum process condition of the crease resistant finish and the crease recovery of treated sample fabrics was evaluated for the study. The treatment conditions for the study were 6 conditions, such as, A-1~A-6, in which A-1 was the condition of treatment glyoxale resin type finishing agent only and A-2~A-6 were the condition of treatment both glyoxale resin type finishing agent and soluble urethane type finishing agent. Among the 6 conditions, the crease recovery of the sample treated with A-4 condition was $148^{\circ}$(angle of recovery method) and grade 3.2(appearance method) and so, these samples showed the excellent crease recovery. From the result, 15g/l of the catalyst conc., 50g/l of the glyoxale resin type finishing agent cone., and 40g/l of the softner were the optimum treatment condition for the crease resistant finish of the andongpo.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.243-248
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• 2007

This study is about the fabric attached to the relics excavated from the Shimchun-ri tomb of the 4th century and the Moonsan-ri tombs of the 5th century. We studied 5 pieces of fabric from the Shimchun-ri tomb: one piece was silk and the other four pieces were hemp. We were able to observe 8 pieces from the four tombs in Moonsan-ri, All of them except one ramie were silk. The two kinds of bast fiber found in the tombs of Shimchun-ri and Moonsan-ri were hemp and ramie, and they were found to be plain woven with S-twist thread which thickness is uneven. The density was more fine compared to the hemps found in the Kaya or Shinra tombs of the similar era. All of the silk textiles found in the Shimchun-ri and Moonsan-ri tombs used non-twisted thread, and were plain woven. Also, we found degummed and raw silk from the tombs. The average density of the silk textiles from these tombs are similar to other areas of the same time, and studies show that they used non-twisted thread in plain woven silk found in other tombs. Therefore, we can conclude that they usually used non-twisted thread when producing silk textiles.