• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.39-46
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• 2005

Art-Make-up has resulted in occupying one of the central areas of this culture. Art Make-up is currently undergoing various changes. The viewpoint of modern make-up is the infiniteness of emotion such as the subjectively individualized expressions and aesthetic values breaking with conventional thought. The most significant change is the idea of the 'grotesque'. The purpose of this research is to re-clarify the development of the diversity, professionalism and artistic feature through the study of Art make-up based on the 'grotesque' style. This also strives to focus attention at observing the deep and mysterious workings of the human inner world. In order to explain the features of 'grotesque' Art make-up, six images below are presented. Firstly, Inharmonious images. Secondly, disgusting inhuman images. Thirdly, mechanical images. Fourthly, distorted and exaggerated images. Fifthly, diabolic and horrific images. And, lastly, playful images. These six images thoroughly demonstrate the 'grotesque' features. The fact at we can see the 'grotesque' features in Art make-up explains the enormous growth of Art make-up and the unlimited range of expression in this field. It also implies that the choice of material and theme is not restricted to universal artistic criteria. In closing, it is necessary that Art make-up is thought of not as actual art but more as a tool for its subjects. As a result, this research will provide valuable information for studies in the future.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.436-499
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to be inquired social and cultural significance of the Grotesque phenomenon in the late 1990's make-up, as well as its experimentalism and avantgardism. The Grotesque is the aesthetic concept, which is composed of ambivalent structure of humor and horror, interest and disgust through join of heterogenous factors, distortion, extreme and overstatement in the patterns and materials of make-up. The Grotesque in the modern make-up is represented in the make-up advertisements and collections. In this paper, the author classified the Grotesque phenomenon with the Kitsch, the Machine, the Animal and the Devil, focused on heterogenous factors. The results are as follows. 1. The Kitsch in the make-up uses not cosmetics but imitations, ready-made goods, and ordinary materials. It expresses modern culture's laziness through shocking self-expression. 2. The Machine in the make-up means silver or white color's make-up, and represents cyber period's arrival through contrary irony, loss of the human value and the personifications of machine. At the same time, it is understood as the curing of human alinetion. 3. The Animal in the make-up utilizes the wild animal's horn, the reptiles'sputum, and the legend's animal. It points out a human false virtual image, and overturns make-up's traditional aesthetic concept. 4. The Devil in the make-up shows vampire's cuspid, demon's horn, artificial nail, and black color's make-up. It raises social irrationality and discrepancy of capitalism, and expresses paradoxically the nature of human life. The Devil in the make-up expresses the creator's innovation, anxiety of fin-de-siecle, and simultaneously criticizes and cures confused reality. It shows also avantgarde implementation of dissolution of traditional aesthetic concept and acceptance ugliness.

• 복식
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• 제61권5호
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• pp.34-47
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• 2011

Grotesque make-up causes a visual shock among modern people beyond the standardized beauty definition, attracts their attention, and manifests itself as a phenomenon of "something bizarre, extremely unnatural, ugly, and funny." The purposes of this study were to investigate the characteristics of grotesque in today's make-up as well as its concepts and features and to figure out its aesthetic characteristics based on the results. The research scope was limited to the fashion make-up of the collections from 2005 to 2010 and the advertising make-up during the same period. In the make-up phenomenon examined according to the grotesque characteristics, the pale skin expression, frightened eyes, and emphasis on black induce disgusting fear, sadness, death, sin, fear for life and death, and obsession. As the make-up emphasized only one part by neglecting the original form and exaggerated it to the point of distortion, the exaggerated abnormality led to a sense of social crisis, desperation, and absence of form. As for devilish playfulness, the make-up accompanied by grotesqueness and humor brought the suppressed, closed world in a tight framework out to fluidity and openness, conveying satire, ludicrousness, ridicule, and accusation of the modern society. The heterogeneous disharmony was found in the use of objects in heterogeneous combinations, presenting unreality, fiction, displeasure, ambivalence, and loss of value of human existence.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.721-736
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• 2004

The aim of this study is to clarify aesthetic values and sociocultural meanings that reappears in contemporary fashion. In order to analyze aesthetic values and symbolic meanings of body decoration, I examined the concepts and expression methods of the body decoration. Also, analyzed external characteristics of expression and its internal meanings that applied in modern fashion. The expressions of body decoration represented in contemporary fashion are classified into direct and indirect methods. The direct method is expressed by tattoos, piercing, henna, make-up and body painting. And, indirect method is expressed by see-through look, body-conscious look and accessories that were utilized its patterns and the material adaptation methods. Such expression of body decoration in the modern fashion was represented into grotesque images and erotic images. The characteristics of grotesque images are abnormal state, hateful animal image and distorted or transformed body and the internal meanings are the pursuit of primitive, exoticism, the pursuit of playfulness, and resistance. The characteristics of erotic images are an exposure of body, see through, body-conscious and androgynous look and the internal meanings are the self-intoxication, naturalism and sexual pleasure.

• 복식
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• 제50권2호
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• pp.167-182
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to examine the art nouveau fashion represented in the end of the twentieth century. The characteristics of art nouveau are naturalism, medievalism , exoticism, and decadentism. The influences of art nouveau were seen in the fashion of the late nineteenth century : S-curve silhouette and organic curve motives printed on hems. Art nouveau has reappeared in modern fashion trends such as romanticism , decadence, ecology, ethno, and fusion. To sum up, art nouveau fashion at the end of the twentieth century is classified into four shapes. First, art nouveau appears in naturalism. Influenced by the arts and crafts movements and naturalistic trend, it has reappeared at the end of the twentieth century in themes like 'art & craft'. This expression technique is to objectively nature and to represented art nouveau textiles. Second, S-curve silhouette appeared at the end of nineteenth century's fashion with the art nouveau influenced rejection of the bustle style. At the end of the twentieth century, the design , emphasizing the hip, is represented in fashion collections as a phenomenon of romanticism . Especially the art nouveau silhouette of the end of the twentieth century does not represent S-curve silhouette. But , it emphasizes the hip only. Third, Art nouveau exoticism by symbolism is influenced by Chinese and Celtic art, the Middle Ages, and the exoticism that appeared in fashion at the end of the nineteenth century : harem style, kimono style, and turbans. Exoticism at the end of the twentieth century is expressed by optical flower prints and successive floral print arrangements as seen in the themes of ethno and fusion. Fourth, one of the characteristics of art nouveau, decadence is influenced by the pre-raphaelite brotherhood. This is expressed in the images of vampires, and symbolism expressing grotesque insect motives and decadent successive curves. At the end of the twentieth century decadence is represented in fashion ; grotesque insect motives, tatto looks of organic curve motives celtic hair style, see-through fashion, grotesque make-up . Besides hair style techniques, decadent expressions applying art nouveau paintings also appeared. Finally , art nouveau fashion represented as a fashion trend at the turning point to the new millennium is one of great significance as an organic, an environment-intimate and continuance-possible design in a future.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.25-44
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• 2008

Geisha's gorgeous kimonos and grotesque make-up was the object of envy to Japanese women. There is a line in the movie like "Kimonos to the Geisha is the same as colors to the painter." Likewise, splendid patterns and colorful kimonos were an indispensible method or symbol for showing their artistic accomplishments. The purpose of this study is to investigate concept and origin of Geisha and their dress and decoration, analyze the dress of the people which appear in the movie, , arrange the expression of Geisha's dress as a movie costume, compare the difference of the dress by the career of Geisha and look back the disappearing aesthetic sense of Geisha. First, since Geisha appeared for the first time in Kyoto in 1751, it has become the world-wide representative of Japanese woman's images so that its existence oneself has become the tradition. Second, Geisha created fashion of various clothes, adornments, and hair styles as a creator of the popularity. Third, the strict regulation without exception is applied in Geisha's clothing, make-up, and motion tuned Samisen, Japanese traditional strings, and there is some difference in their hair style and dress by age of Maiko. Fourth, it is famous for unique make-up that Geisha makes up their faces, necks, and shoulders white, newly paints eyes, nose, lip line like drawing a picture in a pure white paper. Geishas put a little make-up as they have a higher position. Fifth, a heroin, Chiyo, shows clothing as a maid, an apprentice Geisha-Maiko- and a formal Geisha according to time flow. The length of kimono, textures, and hair decorations are longer, more splendid, and are more various as time goes. On the other hand, her make-up is lighter.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권6호
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• pp.86-100
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• 2005

This paper has examined how ugliness has aesthetically been portrayed in modern make-up. In the past, ugliness was regarded as an antonym of beauty, but it recently plays a role on part of beauty, as independent portion of art. It was Schegel who initially maintained the view. According to his theory, ugliness represents interesting things including suffering reality, shock, attention, humor, surprises brought by distort and deformation. Hegel had a different view on it. As for him, he had the notion that ugliness was the opposite to beauty and that it had to be dependent in art, he argued that art was subordinate to philosophy, and that it was just nostalgia for the past, not representing reality, therefore, it could not be a foothold in contemporary art. In this context, some images of ugliness can be classified accordingly to Schegel's view deteste, decadence and androgynous can be fallen into a category describing reality; fetish, kitsch and grotesque can be included in interesting things. There is no fine line between the two. There are sometimes things they have in common. They mutually draw attentions by distancing themselves from general images of beauty, or making many changes and distorts in its part, using unique materials, unprecedented attempts of colors which result in creative and shocking images. Attempts made in ugly images in modern art are widening its concept to depicting reality on the body of human beings, also creating its new definition, playing a major role in independent part of modern art, not in the past way like wearing make-up on the face to make it look better.

• 복식
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• 제51권3호
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• pp.87-98
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to examine the tattoo look in modern fashion from the aspects of 'expression techniques' and 'aesthetic properties'. Tattoos are one of the body decoration which have been continued for a long time all over the world and have contained various meanings in : invocation. symbolization. solidification, exotic tastes, and body decoration. While tattoos have been progressed for the past time, they have been enlarged into body painting, make-up, and even into body art. Besides, their technical skills and equipments have been also developed. Therefore, tattoos are neither tabooed nor restricted in lower class, such as gangsters, bickers, prostitutes, etc., any longer. They are showed in everywhere of our society, running on the fashion. Specially, in fashion, they are shown through the 'tattoo look' designed by talented fashion designers. Futhermore, tattoos are one of the things which have gotten a new value under the Post-modernism and the turning of the century. The various tattoo looks in modern fashion are classified into four categories, according to the expression techniques, the use of see-through, reappearance of primitive body-decoration, application of tattoo patterns, application of street styles'tattoo patterns, make-up & body painting. And, they are also classified into four categories, according to the aesthetic properties Exoticism, Eroticism, Primitivism, and Grotesque.

• 복식
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• 제60권1호
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• pp.14-27
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to analyze how the aesthetic characteristics of Brecht's V-Effekt is visually expressed of the costume in the Traditional Play of Korea, China and Japan. The method and the contents of the study were to refer to the antecedent studies and the related documents to peruse the characteristics of the traditional plays of the East and West, the origin and the concept of Brecht's Verfremdung and considered the relation of Brecht's V-Effekt and the Oriental plays, and then the researcher derived the aesthetic properties of Brecht's V-Effekt. This study analyzed how those qualities of the aesthetic characteristics on the V-Effekt are manifested on the stage costumes of Korean mask, Beijing opera and Kabuki. The aesthetic qualities of Brecht's V-Effekt are classified into symbolism, grotesque disposition, character of sing and dance, comicality. The symbolism in the traditional play costumes of the three nations is shown in the colors of the masks in Korean and the tone of the colors on the costumes and the make-up in Beijing opera and Kabuki. While the properties of bizarrerie and deformation coexist in masque and Beijing opera costumes in terms of grotesque disposition, Kabuki strongly displays bizarre grotesquerie. The character of sing and dance is visually expressed through the transformation of sleeves on the three nation's traditional play costumes; Masque on the Hansam and Chengsam, Beijing opera on the Water sleeves and Kabuki on Hurisode. The comic aspection is expressed in a humorous and comical way through the distortion and transformation of forms in Masque and Beijing opera but it cannot be seen in Kabuki costume. The study as above will form the aesthetic properties of the Oriental traditional play costumes and also it will contribute to establishing the identity of Korean mask costumes.