• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.9
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• pp.1-15
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to classify the types of and to examine the characteristics of the golden decoration technique used for expressing patterns on the costumes from Dang dynasty to Cheong dynasty era. In order to classify the types of the golden decoration technique and to examine its characteristics, literature review, focusing on documents and records of China, and investigation on the relics from Dang to Cheong Dynasty era were conducted. The types of decoration technique using gold include china JigGeum (brocade technique), InGeum (attaching gold powder and flake technique), GeumSaJaSu (embroidery technique), GeumSaTapestry, mixed technique. Interestingly, it was newly found in this study that embroidery with golden thread was used in the GeumSaTapestry technique and that there were some cases of the mixture of 2-3 gold decoration technique. The GeumSajaSu technique was used the most frequently from Dang dynasty to Yo dynasty era. However, its use had decreased enormously while the use of JigGeum had increased a lot since Geum dynasty era. The mixture of 2-5 techniques was used frequently in JigGeum, GeumSaJaSu, and GeumSaTapestry, but not used in InGeum. Particularly, the mixture technique was the most frequently used in the GeumSaTapestry, which expresses by composition of paintings. All four methods were used the mostly frequently in costumes, while GeumSaJaSu and GeumSaTapestry were generally used for home accessories. InGeum and GeumSaJaSu were used a lot for gaze and leno fabrics such as Sa or Ra, while JigGeum was mostly used for satin weaved fabrics like Dan.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.4
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• pp.57-61
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• 2003

From the stupa of Sujongsa-Temple, located in Yangpyeong, Gyeonggi-do province, was excavated a celadon jar with lid, a gilt-bronze nine-storied miniature pagoda and a silver-plate hexagonal miniature shrine, etc. Among them, the gilt-bronze miniature pagoda has been known as a gilt-bronze product since most of its surface has copper tint and the base part has bronze corrosion. Its formal title registered on the Cultural Properties Administration also begins with "a gilt-bronze". However, it was supposed to be a gold product in many aspects: the color and status of the surface, degree of the bronze corrosion creation and the metal thread joining the wind bell. So the necessity to prove its material by a scientific analysis was raised. We examined it with nondestructive method. The results were traces of open-working on many parts of the surface, but no traces of gilding. Moreover, as we perform an XRF analysis, the main component were gold and silver(16%) and some impurities such as copper and iron were found. Therefore, it could be inferred that this miniature pagoda is a gold product.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.2
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• pp.127-135
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• 2003

Woon Kyun was one of the shoulder cloth worn by both men and women during Won(원) Dynasty. The distinet features of Woon Kyun was that it had cloud-form embroidered on chest, back and both shoulders respectively and the front of it was opened. It also glitterinyly decorated with five different colored embroidery inserted with gold thread. 26 Woon Kyun out of 59 men demonstrated on the miniature of ≪Jipsa≫ were selected and analyzed according to the historical periods, class and sex. The results of the study showed that there was little change on its forms and patterns and people wore it without specific differentiation. The common patterns of embroidery used were various kinds of animals and plants, however, plants seemed to be more preferred.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.38 no.2
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• pp.124-132
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• 2022

Through scientific analysis, this study identified the material characteristics of metal foil decorating the border line and knotting of the National Folklore Cultural Heritage 'Pouch for the Sutra Embroidered with a Sun and Moon Design'. Through Scanning Electron Microscope-Energy Dispersive Spectroscopy results, it was estimated that silver (Ag) and sulfur (S) were present in the metal foil, and silver leaf was also attached to the medium. S may discolor Ag from yellow to black depending on its concsentration and contact time. Yellow color could not be identified in metal foil at present. But there existed an example of the preparation of a gold-colored flat silver thread; therefore, further research is needed to estimate the original color. The lamella was reddish brown on the back. Aluminum, silicon, and iron were also detected and were the main components found in red soil. This is believed to be the red adhesive in traditional flat gold thread and is considered to be an adhesive-related component of the metal foil. From the gas chromatography mass spectrometry results, the adhesive component was confirmed to be animal glue.

• The Journal of Korean Academy of Prosthodontics
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.519-531
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• 2003

Statement of problem : Chronic implant screw loosening remains a problem in restorative practices. Some implant manufactureres have introduced abutment screws with treated material, surfaces and macrostructures in an effort to reduce potential loosening. Purpose : This study evaluated the materials and loading cycles on detorque value after dynamic continous fatigue test in the sinulated conditions of posterior single restoration. Material and method : Fourteen of each of the following abutment screws - titanium alloy, gold alloy, gold-tite, and titanium alloy modified - were used in test. SEM is used to verify macrostructures of each screws. $ZrO_2/Al_2O_3$ composite abutment was tightened on $4{\times}10.0mm$ titanium external implant at 30 Ncm. Cyclic loading machine delivered dynamic loading forces between 20 and 320N for 100,000, 200,000, 300,000, 500,000, and 1,000,000 cycles at frequencies 14Hz. Torque and detorque value after loading was measured. Results : All measued screws had different screw length and thread form. Titanium modified screw had greater detorque value than others before and after cyclic loadings(p<0.05). All abutment screws had no significant change in mean percentage of detorque value after loading to initial value after less than 500.000 cyclic loadings, but significant lower value after 1,000,000 cycles(p<0.05). Conclusion : Within limintations of this study all abutment screws may be loosend after about 1 year use. Annual check-up is nessasary to prevent screw loosening.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.2
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• pp.88-101
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• 2011

This study emphasizes on the characteristics of the excavated fabrics from the tomb of Kimwhoak in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. All of 118 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the tomb of Kimwhoak. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 63 pieces of spun silk tabby(53.6%), 14 of spun yarn silk(11.9%), 13 of thin filament silk tabby(11.0%), 8 of thin silk tabby(6.8%), 4 of satin without pattern(3.4%), 3 of filament silk tabby(2.5%), 3 of twill without pattern(2.5%), 2 of satin damask(1.7%), 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton(1.7%), and 2 of ramie fabric(1.7%), 1 of simple gauze without pattern(0.8%), 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread(0.8), 1 of cotton(0.8%), 1 of etc(0.8%). Classified by ways of weaving: 106 pieces of plain weave(89%), 6 of satin weave(5%), 3 of twill weave (3%), 1 of gauze weave(1%), 1 of compound weave(1%) and etc(1%). In point of patterns, the most of textiles are without pattern, there are only two of them are patterned textile. such as lotus patterns with vine, peony patterns with vine. Their patterns are very similar to those of other tombs in the same age.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.45
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• pp.161-178
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• 1999

In contemporary fashion metal have used which is as the material with a sufficient potentiality of expression which is displayed by an unique characteristic involved only in metal. In this paper metal expressed in contemporary fashion is researched. The first thing the formative characteristic of metal is researched under the consideration of type technique and color of metal used in contemporary fashion. Metals such as gold silver bronze aluminum thin lead and iron are usually used in fashion and those metals are used in various types such a thread fabric board leaf a and cable. Those types of metal as above are applied to the clothing by the techniques of weaving embroidering metal leaf printing or moulding which gives the formative characteristic to the clothing. In color metal has an effect on the colors of surroundings by its smooth and unique luster and its effect of reflection and produces the visual formative characteristic through the effects of contrast. The esthetic will of metal expressed in modern fashion is researched in this study under the facts studied as above. first metal expresses the future oriented esthetic Second metal has the characteristic of attracting the attention Third metal is used as valid techniques to express the artistic formation for clothing escaping from the idea that the clothing is only for wearing. Finally metal is used as an anti-cultural tool of fighting against the existing order or spirit.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.45 no.2
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• pp.51-62
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• 2007

This study explicates some properties of the fabrics used in the 16th century by examining and analyzing the 90 pieces of fabric excavated from the graves of Mr. Ryu of Jinju and his wife Mrs. Park of Euiin. The fabrics were classified into silk tabby(紬), thin silk tabby, satin damask(段), complex gauze(羅), mixture fabric with silk and cotton(絲棉交織), cotton(棉布) etc. Compared to other contemporary fabrics excavated previously, the fabrics unearthed from the couple's graves presented very naive feelings. Patterned satin damask occupied a small portion. In the case of plain fabric, little filament silk tabby(絹) or thin filament silk tabby(細紬) was unearthed. Important data on the history of Korean costumes are provided by the noteworthy, first-ever excavation of a small cap made of complex gauze(羅) and the tiger-leopard embroidered patches called hyoongbae(胸背), which were worn on the front and back of official robes made of tabby with supplementary gold thread(金線). Only 3 pattern types could be clearly identified in form, cloud pattern, lotus and vine pattern(蓮花蔓草), and small flower and treasures pattern(七寶細花). These three patterns are very similar to those of other 16th century fabrics unearthed previously in terms of the form and arrangement of patterns.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.144-153
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• 2021

Gwanghwadang-Wonsam was designated as National Folklore Cultural Heritage No. 52 in 1979, it is in good condition. However, a problem is the attached a phoenix insignia badge that did not exist when it was designated recently. As it became known as the only purple Wonsam artifact with "phoenix insignia", raising the need for its conservation. In this regard, scientific analysis was required to correct misinformation about designated cultural assets and restore the original designated state by analyzing the history of the Gwanghwadang-Wonsam, other relics of the phoenix insignia and its making design patterns. An X-ray fluorescence analysis was used to confirm that the Phoenix insignia's metal threads were titanium-plated silver. Phoenix insignia using titanium-plated gold thread was not identified in Gwanghwadang-Wonsam photographs in 1986, and the TiN-type membrane plating method was used in various industries in the 1990s, which can be estimated to be attached in the early and mid-1990s. Especially, the scientific analysis results from the X-ray fluorescence analysis in this study provide key evidence for conservation processing. This study demonstrates the importance of investigating relics and similar artifacts in the conservation process of inherited relics and as a precedent for restoration that corrects misinformation about designated cultural properties.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.15
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• pp.38-55
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• 2014

Three costumes excavated from the tomb of Yu Gyeongjong ^1565-1623, which are now own at Buyeo National Museum, underwent conservation treatment. As a result of this treatment, the costume types were correctly identified and their original forms were restored. Through the restoration process, various key features were discovered, enabling the costume types to be correctly identified as a dallyeong ^{Official's Uniform with Round Collar}, jingnyeong ^{Coat with Straight Collar}, and changui ^{Coat with Slits in the Rear and Sides}. One of the newly discovered key features was a new variety of pattern that differed from the prevalent cloud pattern of the time. Also, on the dallyeong, it was found that the ground of the hyungbae ^{Rank Badge}, was made from yeongeumsa ^{Wrapped Gold Thread}. These costumes are significant artifacts showing trends, patterns, forms, and other key characteristics of clothing from the late sixteenth to the early seventeenth century.