• Cross-Cultural Studies
• /
• v.22
• /
• pp.51-72
• /
• 2011

The economic decline coincided with the crooked political path of Spanish monarchy that has been on an almost permanent state of war. The Spanish empire was divided and consequently, general impoverishment spread throughout the whole country quickly. Nevertheless Spanish culture reached the climax, especially in the field of painting. Spanish paintings of 17th century are basically religious based on concept of Baroque, whose theme is usually the immaculate conception or mysterious figures of saints. Velaquez, Mrillo, and Ribera are the main painters who represented the trend of this time. Despite having fame as religious court painters, they painted subjects from low society such as beggars in rags, dwarves, jesters, or the poor child. They reflected an optimistic expression and an awe for human being in their paintings greatly. In this paper, we are dealing with three main representative painters of Baroque era whose theme was a picaresque character. This character was one of the axes that coexisted with royals and nobles in 17th century of Spain. The art works that are dealt in this paper serve as materials for historial values and through them we can observe the atmosphere of decline that dominated Spain of the time.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.12 no.5
• /
• pp.859-879
• /
• 2004

As a result of research, the characteristics of the general costumes from the king Young-Cho period to the king Jung-Cho period in Genre Paintings of Mung-Hyun Oho, Yong Yun, In-Sang Lee, Hee-Eon Kang follows. First, the typical man wore his hair in a topknot(sangtu), and put on 'Bung-gu-ji', 'Lip', or a scarf on his head. The length of the 'Jeogori'(Korean traditional jacket) was long enough to cover the waist. Dress for work had side slits, and had half length sleeve Jeogori, and short pants looked like 'Jam-bang-i'. They went barefoot and wore 'Jipsin'(Korean traditional straw shoes). Dress for outdoor was 'Po' that knot at front of chest by band. 'Baji'(slacks) were with knot below knee, worn 'Hang-jun'(ankle band) and the width of slacks was suitable. They were 'Beoseon'(Korean traditional socks) and shoes. Second those in the upperc1ass and those in the military put on 'Mang-geon', 'Gat', 'Sa-bang-gan', 'Tang-geon', 'Bok-geon' on their head on a topknot. Most of them wore 'So-chang-i', 'Jung-chi-mag' or 'Do-po'. The length of Jeogori covered the waist or the hip and were tied with 'Go-rum'(ribbon). Baji was tied with Hang-jun and 'Dae-nim'. The waist of the slacks were tied with a dark colored waist-band and folded down their waist of slacks. They wore white color Beoseon and 'Hye' or dark color leather shoes. They wore 'Sup'(assistant of arm) for bow. It showed the lifestyle of the 18C with fan, 'Be-ru', 'Mug', 'Yun-jug', teacup, pot, etc. Third, child's hair was short or knotted to the back of the head. The length of Jeogori reached waist line, Git of Jeogori was 'Dunggurai-Kit'(shape of round) and other style Jeogori, which reached the hip line, had side-slit. Baji was tied with Dae-nim, and the width of the slacks is suitable. They hang 'Yum-nang'(Pocket). Final, most women worked outdoors wearing their hair in a high twisted style, or covered it with scarf. They wore Jeogori and 'Chima'(Korean traditional skirts), Bagi. They folded up the sleeves of the Jeogori. And they folded the 'Jambang-i-styled' pants to just above the knees, fastening at the waist. When they wore skirts, they also wore underpants under the skirt that went down to the knees. Most of them went barefoot and wore straw shoes, Jipsin. Through genre paintings, we can understand the ways and forms of our ancestor's clothing. And with our understanding, interest, and passion, we can be familiar with Hanbok in our daily life by succeeding and creating its peculiar style. And then we can promote the globalization of Hanbok.

• Archives of design research
• /
• v.19 no.5 s.67
• /
• pp.151-160
• /
• 2006

When it comes to the paintings in Joseon Dynasty, landscape and a genre paintings were popular but it was Minhwa that people of every dass loved. Minhwa contained not only true meaning of a picture, but also it was simple and straighforwardly depicted. Among them, paintings in books belonging to the Joseon Dynasty (hereinafter called Checkgeori paintings) describe a small universe in which people live harmoniously in nature on the basis of a Confucian society. In addition, it shows modern philosophy in paintings and makes a feature of human life. In this paper, 'Ssangpok Checkgeori 'in Checkgeori paintings illustrates the relationships between things such as color, arrangement, place and direction. They have outstanding features such as the direction of things in composition, multiple vanishing points, a folding screen constituent and movement of viewpoints. Therefore, we come to know the painting method of 'Ssangpok Checkgeori' can be applied to modern paintings.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
• /
• v.18 no.2
• /
• pp.277-291
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this study was to examine the costume worn by women in daily life according to life scenes depicted in genre paintings of the late Chosan Dynasty. The sentiments and customs of the time were examined to discover how costume culture followed women's lifestyles in the late period of the Chosun Dynasty. First, according to life scenes, a field amusement type costume was the most common garment and a commercial activity type costume was the least common garment. Second, when the form of costume was examined followed by the lifestyle it depicted, the following observations were noted. Women depicted in a housework type lifestyle often wore a Minjeogori. In contrast, women appearing in a labor production type or a commercial activity type lifestyle often wore a Banhoijangjeogori with the width of the coat narrowing gradually according to the trends of the time. In the forms of Chima, the women wore a Duluchima and a Gudlchima for convenience during their work and covered a Haengjuchima over it. Third, women shown in a field amusement type, a home enjoyment type or an affection pursuit type lifestyle mainly wore a deep blue colored Chima and Hoijang or Banhoijang Jeogori. While most of the women depicted in a labor production type, a housework type or a commercial activity type lifestyle wore a natural cotton colored Jeogori and a natural cotton colored and light indigo Chima. Fourth, in the field amusement type and the affection pursuit type lifestyle, the wearing of a headdress during outings of women appeared variously influenced by the strengthening restrictions placed on the women's lives according to the ethics of Confucianism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.33 no.7
• /
• pp.1061-1073
• /
• 2009

Present expression methods have close relations with popular culture in the active acceptance of various kinds of genre. Fashion illustration is no longer limited to sketching garments or technically explaining construction, it is accepted as an art that is expressed by the desire and consciousness of the artist. This study examines the expressional characteristics and effects of photo-image appropriation as an expression method in fashion illustration. The word 'appropriation' (to steal something) is used as euphemism and not meant to be derogatory. The methods of appropriation in art indicate that paintings are not inventions but are self-satisfactory creations that show that the idea of originality is false and that paintings should be uninhibited from the greed of the authority of the genius of artists. In postmodern paintings, the photo-image of appropriation are expressed through the methods of re-photography, photo collage, and photo painting. Photo-image appropriation methods in fashion illustration are re-photography, photo collage, image mixing of photography, drawing, and graphic expression of photography. Fashion illustrators are able to develop expression techniques for expanding a field of expression and enhance the ability of communication through the photo-image appropriation methods.

• Acta Via Serica
• /
• v.3 no.1
• /
• pp.119-138
• /
• 2018

The dragon of the East was an object of worship and an authority to make rain, unlike the West. The dragon image, one of the positively accepted Chinese motifs with the blue-and-white porcelain of the Ming dynasty by the Ottoman Empire in the 16th century, was combined with gigantic saw-edged leaves to create a genre in Saz style. By combining Eastern dragons with plant motifs instead of clouds, dragons were no longer accepted as authority and nobility but as symbols of life and longevity. Unlike Iran and other countries, the image of dragons in Turkish miniature paintings has evolved into a unique style using Turkish calligraphy. The stylistic feature is that a thick black line that gives the impression of calligraphy forms the dragon's back or a huge saz leaf stalk and forms the axis of the screen. Most of the work was black ink drawing, not painting, and partly lightly painted. In the development stage, the dragon appears as a protagonist on the screen of the early works, but the dragon retreats to the latter half and the saz leaves play a leading role on the screen. A common feature in all paintings, whether early or late, is that they have a militant character and create tension on the screen. From the viewpoint of comparative culture, Turkish dragon miniature drawings of the 16thcentury Ottoman period and the Joseon dynasty are somewhat similar in that they are based on calligraphic character and desire for longevity and loyalty, and are drawn according to certain iconic principles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.65 no.6
• /
• pp.79-98
• /
• 2015

This article studied women's headdresses that appeared in the paintings of Joseon Dynasty. This examined the shapes of women's headdresses painted in genre paintings, record paintings and nectar ritual paintings from Joseon Dynasty and compared them to literatures and relics in order to analyze their types and characteristics. Headdress can be categorized into three types: (1) square cloth worn on the top of the head; (2) a kind of small cap; (3) Cloth that completely covers the head. The first type of headdress resembles the shape of Garima. In the early period of Joseon Dynasty, it was worn not only by Gisaeng, but also by both upper and lower class women. The second type of headdress includes a cap made by connecting several cloths, round cap, and cone-shaped cap. These two types are worn on top of the head. However, sometimes these were worn between the head and the chignon to fix the chignon. Also, these were used as hair accessories for decorative purposes. In particular, old women wore these headdresses and braided their white hair around them to fix the chignon. This way, the headdress not only kept the head warm, but also hid the old women's scanty hair. Headdress was usually made of black fabric and it was a simple hair accessory that replaced the wig. The third type of headdress was widely worn among lower class women. The cloth completely covered the head so that the hair would not fall when working. It also provided protection from cold and hot weather. According to paintings, there were many ways of wearing the cloth around the head.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.38 no.5
• /
• pp.638-653
• /
• 2014

The structure of noble centered social status of the late Joseon Dynasty collapsed due to the commoner's higher status and increased level of consciousness caused by the growth of commerce and agriculture. In art, the a Korean and ethnical style dominated; however, with a diversity in the depiction of human figures in portraits, Buddhist paintings, genre paintings and folklore paintings. This study examines the diversity in human figures expressed in the paintings of the late Joseon Dynasty by expanding the common aesthetic fixed to the typical Joseon style of renowned painters. The conclusion of this study is as follows. The human figure is categorized into three different types of 'realistic', 'ideal', and 'distortion' based on the aesthetic category. First, the realistic type is defined literally by its realistic and detailed depiction of noble class portraits classified as extreme type and general type. The extreme type's formative element is hypersubtlety which includes a simultaneous aesthetic of aptness and ugliness. The general type shows subtlety with aesthetic of aptness. Second, the ideal type is defined by representing the standard form of time and criteria classified as beautified type, absolute type, and dignified type. Each shows a different character of gender of femininity, androgyny, and masculinity. Third, distortion types are defined by a characteristic expression of humans by transshaping the features in various methods categorized as grotesque, abjection, friendly, rustic, and caricature type. Each shows different formative elements of bizarre, patheticness, voluptuous, inartificial, and immaturity.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
• /
• no.10
• /
• pp.50-57
• /
• 1997

This study is concentrated on the specified relationship between the contemporary art and the interior design by investigation their situational connections through the expresison of their works. Each fields of modern art makes expressive situation more complicated and transforms its unintelligible and expressive outputs variously. The expression is the basis of the incompatibility of the modern art which features the ambivalence of the various tendency and the characteristics of the artists works as well as the disappearance of the typical genre of the art. The new expression such as the spatial recognition of the paintings and the participatio of the real, expreimental examples of the modern art enlarges its realm. The field interior design which has the close relationship with the fine arts need to make a new discussion or a theory among the progressive expression and the various tendencies of the art. Through this research, by reviewing the intermixed and expressed features of the artists works and designers projects which went far beyond the concepts and genre, the interrelationship between expression tendency of the contemporary art and the interior design has been specified.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.42 no.1
• /
• pp.74-87
• /
• 2018

This thesis investigated majo and maja costumes of depicted in Francisco de Goya's paintings from the middle of 18th to the early 19th century, and presented the costumes defined as the upward flow from the lower classes to the upper classes. The study methodology selected those describing the maja and majo among the figure paintings, portraits and genre paintings by Goya that identify unique characteristics with the qualitative analysis of the cases of the upward flow with that affect the costume of the upper classes. The influence of the majo and maja costumes were outstanding in the shape of the outfits while the French style gown of the upper class women were one-piece dresses in shape, those of the maja were two-piece dresses that consisted of the upper and gather skirts. The costume was perfected by use of the mantilla or head kerchief, instead of the headdresses prevalent at those times. The majo's costume affected the men's costume of the upper classes in the shape of the outfits. Short coat and tight breeches were preferred to the loose ones as well as instead of a long coat. Rather than the wigs or tri-corn hat, the head kerchief and sash belt applied, which could be evidence of the upward flow as well as shows proof of the influence of majo and maja costumes.