• Title/Summary/Keyword: free long waves

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사다리형태로 변화하는 지형 위를 통과하는 파군에 의한 장파의 생성 (Long Waves Generated by Wave Groups over Trapezoidally Varying Topography)

  • Cho, Yong-Sik;Lee, Jin-Woo;Jung, Tae-Hwa
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.20 no.2
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    • pp.212-218
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    • 2008
  • A possible source of resonant problems in a harbor is long waves generated by incident wave groups. The analytical solutions of the governing equations of second-order long waves derived using a multiple-scale perturbation method consist of the locked and free long waves. The locked long waves propagate at some group velocity, whereas the free long waves propagate at the shallow-water speed. To study the resonance of free long waves, a trapezoidally varying topography is employed. With certain combinations of incident angle, water depth, and ambient current velocity, free long waves can be trapped and resonated.

Long Waves Generated by Short Wave Groups over a Step: Governing Equations (계단지형을 지나는 파군에 의한 장파의 생성: 지배방정식)

  • Jo, Yong-Sik
    • Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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    • v.34 no.6
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    • pp.651-657
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    • 2001
  • The second-order long waves generated by short wave groups propagating over a step are theoretically investigated. The diffraction of short waves is firstly formulated and the governing equations of second-order long waves are then derived by using a multiple-scale perturbation method. It is observed that free and locked long waves are generated and propagated with different velocities.

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Wave Patterns Due to a Point Impulse Travelling over Free Surface of Water of Finite Depth

  • Lee, G.J.;Chung, Y.K.
    • Journal of Hydrospace Technology
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    • v.2 no.1
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    • pp.10-17
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    • 1996
  • If a point impulse travels over free surface of water of finite depth, surface waves consist of divergent waves. The crestlines of those divergent waves are short and end on the cusp line if the impulse travels at a subcritical speed. But the crestlines become infinitely long and there are no cusps if the impulse travels at a supercritical speed.

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Experimental and Numerical Study on the Characteristics of Free Surface Waves by the Movement of a Circular Cylinder-Shaped Submerged Body in a Single Fluid Layer

  • Jun-Beom Kim;Eun-Hong Min;Weoncheol Koo
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.37 no.3
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    • pp.89-98
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    • 2023
  • Analyzing the interactions of free surface waves caused by a submerged-body movement is important as a fundamental study of submerged-body motion. In this study, a two-dimensional mini-towing tank was used to tow an underwater body for analyzing the generation and propagation characteristics of free surface waves. The magnitude of the maximum wave height generated by the underwater body motion increased with the body velocity at shallow submerged depths but did not increase further when the generated wave steepness corresponded to a breaking wave condition. Long-period waves were generated in the forward direction as the body moved initially, and then short-period waves were measured when the body moved at a constant velocity. In numerical simulations based on potential flow, the fluid pressure changes caused by the submerged-body motion were implemented, and the maximum wave height was accurately predicted; however, the complex physical phenomena caused by fluid viscosity and wave breaking in the downstream direction were difficult to implement. This research provides a fundamental understanding of the changes in the free surface caused by a moving underwater body.

Propagating Spiral Waves Obtained in a Catalyst-Immobilized Gel Membrane by the Belousov-Zhabotinsky Reaction System

  • Kim, Bong-Seong;Jo, Eun-Ae;Basavaraja, C.;Huh, Do-Sung
    • Bulletin of the Korean Chemical Society
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    • v.31 no.7
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    • pp.1956-1962
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    • 2010
  • The formation of diverse spiral waves was studied in a polyacrylamide gel membrane with ruthenium(4-vinyl-4'-methyl-2,2'-bipyridine)bis(2,2'-bipyridine)bis(hexafluorophosphate) by a gas-free Belousov-Zhabotinisky (BZ) reaction system containing 1,4-cyclohexanedione (1,4-CHD). The gel membrane was found to be receptive for observing propagating waves since a clearer wave-train is obtained during a long reaction time without any disturbance from the immobilized metal catalyst which can be dissolved into the highly acidic solution of the BZ system. The distinctive waves in the system basically depend on both $BrO_3$ and 1,4-CHD in the initial phase, and are influenced by the intensity of illumination of visible light.

Surface Gravity Waves with Strong Frequency Modulation

  • Lee Kwi-Joo;Shugan Igor V.;An Jung-Sun
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.20 no.3 s.70
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    • pp.1-6
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    • 2006
  • Modulation theory describes propagation of surface waves with deep wave number and frequency modulation. Locally spectrally narrow wave packet can have accumulated large scale frequency shift of carrier wave during propagation. Some important nonlinear modulation effects, such as negative frequencies, phase kinks, crest pairing, etc., often observed experimentally at long fetch propagation of finite amplitude surface wave trains, are reproduced by the proposed theory. The presented model permits also to analyze the appropriately short surface wave packets and modulation periods. Solutions show the wave phase kinks to arise on areas' of relatively small free surface displacement in complete accordance with the experiments.

Coastally Trapped Waves over a Double Shelf Topography(I) : Free Waves with Exponential Topography (양향성 대륙붕의 대륙붕파(I): 지수함수적 해저지형에서의 자유파)

  • PANG Ig-Chan
    • Korean Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
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    • v.24 no.6
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    • pp.428-436
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    • 1991
  • Double shelf topography allows the existence of two sets of waves propagating in opposite directons. In the case that two shelves are apart sufficiently enough, the solutions show two independent sets of waves which recover the single shelf waves. However, if the distance between two shelves is less than the Rossby deformation radius, the waves become dependent on the geometry of both shelves. Even over a double shelf topography, shelf waves propagate with the shallow water to the right in the Northern Hemisphere. The group velocity of shelf wave has the same direction as phase velocity in the long wave case, but the opposite direction in the short wave case. Each shelf mode has a zero group velocity at some intermediate value of wave length.

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A Motion Analysis of FPSO in Irregular Waves including Swells

  • Kwak Hyun U.;Choi Hang S.;Shin Hyun S.
    • Journal of Ship and Ocean Technology
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    • v.9 no.2
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    • pp.21-28
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    • 2005
  • Recently moored offshore vessels like as FPSO(Floating Production Storage Offloading) are frequently deployed in seas for a long time. For successful operation, the motion behavior of such a vessel in waves must be clarified in advance either theoretically or experimentally. It is of particular interest to examine the behavior, when swells are superposed to seas with different incident angle. Such a situation is actually reported in some offshore oilfield. In this paper, the motion of a FPSO in irregular waves including swells is studied in time domain. Hydrodynamic coefficients and wave forces are calculated in frequency domain using three-dimensional singularity distribution method. Time memory function and added mass at infinite frequency are derived by Fourier transform utilizing hydrodynamic damping coefficients. In the process, the numerical accuracy of added mass at infinite frequency is carefully examined in association with free decay simulations. It is found from numerical simulations that swells significantly affect the vertical motion of FPSO mainly because of their longer period compared to the ordinary sea waves. In particular, the roll motion is largely amplified because the dominant period of swell is closer to the roll natural period than that of seas.

A Study of Numerical Wave Tank for 3-Dimensional Free Surface Wave Simulation (3차원 자유표면파 모사를 위한 수치 파수조에 관한 연구)

  • Ha, Y.R.;Kim, Y.J.
    • Journal of Power System Engineering
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    • v.15 no.6
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    • pp.27-34
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    • 2011
  • The increasing capabilities of the computers enable us to utilize various numerical schemes for the time-domain simulations concerned with 3-dimensional free-surface wave problems. There are still difficulties to solve such kind of problems, however. That's because long time simulations with large computational domain are needed in time-domain analysis. So, we need faster and more efficient numerical schemes to get the solutions practically for these problems. In this paper, a high-order spectral/boundary-element method is used for the numerical investigation of physics involved in wave-body interaction. This method is one of the most efficient numerical methods by which the nonlinear gravity waves can be simulated and hydrodynamic forces also can be calculated in time-domain. To get the robust study in these topics, various numerical tests are performed and compared with others' works.

Estimation of Large Amplitude Motions and Wave Loads of a Ship Advancing in Transient Waves by Using a Three Dimensional Time-domain Approximate Body-exact Nonlinear 2nd-order BEM (3 차원 시간영역 근사비선형 2 차경계요소법에 의한 선체의 대진폭 운동 및 파랑하중 계산)

  • Hong, Do-Chun;Hong, Sa-Young;Sung, Hong-Gun
    • Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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    • v.47 no.3
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    • pp.291-305
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    • 2010
  • A three-dimensional time-domain calculation method is of crucial importance in prediction of the motions and wave loads of a ship advancing in a severe irregular sea. The exact solution of the free surface wave-ship interaction problem is very complicated because of the essentially nonlinear boundary conditions. In this paper, an approximate body nonlinear approach based on the three-dimensional time-domain forward-speed free-surface Green function has been presented. The Froude-Krylov force and the hydrostatic restoring force are calculated over the instantaneous wetted surface of the ship while the forces due to the radiation and scattering potentials over the mean wetted surface. The time-domain radiation and scattering potentials have been obtained from a time invariant kernel of integral equations for the potentials which are discretized according to the second-order boundary element method (Hong and Hong 2008). The diffraction impulse-response functions of the Wigley seakeeping model advancing in transient head waves at various Froude numbers have been presented. A simulation of coupled heave-pitch motion of a long rectangular barge advancing in regular head waves of large amplitude has been carried out. Comparisons between the linear and the approximate body nonlinear numerical results of motions and wave loads of the barge at a nonzero Froude number have been made.