• 한국의류학회지
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• 제46권2호
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• pp.250-271
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• 2022

Traditional wedding dresses have had a high market demand in China in recent years. Traditional wedding dresses from the Tang dynasty occupy an important position among traditional Chinese dresses, and they are also favored by young women. This study was conducted to develop the rushan and qun patterns of traditional wedding dress styles from the Tang dynasty for women in their twenties in China. For this purpose, the rushan and qun patterns of Tang and Song dynasty dresses and modern traditional dresses were collected and analyzed. Additionally, the developed patterns were validated for suitability through appearance evaluations of virtual and real fittings. The following proportions of the developed patterns were proposed: H/3.3 for rushan length, H/33 for collar width, H/1.08 for total sleeve length, H/6 for sleeve width, H/8.5 for sleeve hem width, and H/1.55 for qun length. In addition, the developed patterns received high scores in the appearance evaluations of the virtual and real fittings. Therefore, the developed rushan and qun patterns are expected to have high utility in the current traditional wedding dress industry.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권3호
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• pp.650-661
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to suggest a guidance to select proper muslin through investigating fabric characteristics. The structural and physical properties of muslin and top fabric samples were tested by KES-FB system and other testers. And in order to examine the relation between fabric characteristics and the shape of garments, wearing tests were done with jackets made of those samples. As a result, bending rigidity(B), bending hysteresis(2HB), shear stiffness(G), shear hysteresis at=0.5(2HG), shear hysteresis at=5(2HG5), stiffness, cloth count/5cm, weight, thickness were extracted as the key factors affecting the appearance of garments. To have similar appearance, all of these should be counted. After standardizing, we calculate the variance between top cloth and muslin. And from this we could get the range that the proper muslin should be included. The ranges were as follows: Bending rigidity(B): within 0.024g.$\textrm{cm}^2$/cm(0.3$\sigma$); Shear stiffness(G): within 2.21g/cm.degree(1.3$\sigma$) Weight: within 9.33mg/$\textrm{cm}^2$(18$\sigma$); Thickness: within 0.20mm(1.8$\sigma$)

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제41권6호
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• pp.1109-1123
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• 2017

This study analyzed a somatotype of teenager's that was suitable to improve the reality of a virtual model size. We analyzed 843 teenagers 12-18 years old from the 6th Size Korea data. First, factor analysis was done for abstracting new criteria and dividing the somatotype; subsequently, we selected the waist height proportion to stature (body proportion) and drop (torso shape). Next, the cluster analysis was done with these criteria; subsequently, 5 body proportion types and 7 torso shapes were distinguished. A virtual model size for 4 somatotype with more than 50 persons was also designed by a regression analysis that constituted sizes for each factor. The designed model size was compared with body size as well as with Clo's virtual model size. The research model showed a high similarity in sizes with body as well as improved reality over the Clo model that presented size problems such as low waist height, bigger bust, and smaller thigh circumference than the real body.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제20권5호
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• pp.102-114
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to enable a scientific and rational approach for future research agenda setting in the clothing construction field. Through analysis of research papers on clothing construction published in domestic academic journals during the recent decade, the research trend of clothing construction in respective academic journals, research subjects, and research contents were grasped thoroughly. From all domestic academic associations' publication on garment/clothing and textiles/fashion, 7 academic journals were selected as subjects of research, in order to compare and analyze the research trend in the last ten years. The ten-year period ranged from April 2006 to March 2016, and a total of 735 papers published on clothing construction were used for analysis. The number of publications in the clothing construction area during the last decade has decreased, which is due to the increase in the number of clothing and textiles fashion-related academic journals, other than the 7 journals analyzed, and since the number of papers published in international academic journals has also increased. Body type, patterns, fitting test, and functional clothing accounted for the highest proportion of research themes in clothing construction. In terms of body type, there was an increasing tendency towards usage of 3D body measurement. In the patterns area, the 3D virtual dressing system was actively used. For functional clothing, sportswear, protective clothes, and innerwear were most widely researched, and ergonomic design together with smartwear was actively studied.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.191-203
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• 2016

The 3D virtual fitting system is a new and very efficient system replacing real fitting in apparel industry and on-line shopping. It is a win-win system for both of consumer and manufacturer which not only reduces design and production time but also resolves consumer's complaints by checking the wearing image beforehand. It is a must-have item in the future. The purpose of this study is to analyze sizing menu, terms, and current status and to figure out problems of avatar sizing programs which substitute human bodies in virtual fitting. We chose three existing outstanding programs in domestic and global market, compared and analyzed the program, manual, and terms that are used in avatar sizing, and investigated the strengths, weaknesses, problems of options and terms and finally suggested an alternative terms. The revealed problems are as follows: each program supports various avatars ranging from male to female, from child to adult, and from oriental style to western style. The image of the avatar could be changed through the options for hair style, shoes and accessories. But we found out some problems. The avatar body types are far from actual human body types, avatar sizing menus and item terms are different from program to program, and terms not yet standardized. Cooperative efforts of industry and academy on standardization of sizing menus and terms should be emphasized for the virtual fitting system to be widely used like the other computer graphic programs or word editors.

• 감성과학
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.17-26
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• 2003

의류상품의 전자상거래 시장이 확대됨에 따라 인터넷쇼핑에서 의류를 구매할 때 선택한 의류를 착용한 자신의 모습을 확인하는 도구로 가상피팅모델이 제공되고 있다. 본 연구에서는 가상피팅모델 구축 시 사용자의 주관적인 체형인식을 반영할 필요가 있는지 알아보기 위하여 여성의 신체 치수나 체형에 대한 인식이 어떻게 다른지 연구하였다. 의류학 전공 여자대학원 50명을 대상으로 실험한 본 연구의 결과는 인체부위에 대한 개인의 치수인식이 체형에 따라 다름을 보여준다. 연구자들은 인터넷 의류 쇼핑용 가상피팅모델을 구축하기 위해서는 사용자 신체치수뿐만 아니라 사용자가 인지하는 자신의 체형특성을 반영할 필요가 있다고 결론지었다 특히 배가 많이 나온 체형도 자신이 실제보다 배가 나오지 않은 체형으로 생각하는 경향이 있으므로 여성이용자에게 거부되지 않는 가상피팅모델을 구축하기 위해서는 지나치게 극단적인 체형의 가상피팅모델의 구축은 신중하게 고려해야함을 시사하였다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.719-730
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to develop the basic patterns of adult womens brassiere therewith, provide for some basic data useful to the brassiere manufacturing which are both functional and fitting. For this purpose, 220 adults women(aged between 20 and 59) were sampled to be measured for their body sizes and tested for their brassiere wearing. The collected data were statistically processed using the SAS 6.12 for Means, Standard Deviation, etc. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. In order to develop the basic patterns of adult womens brassieres, 75A size was selected out of 12 size combination(3 women per 75A size) and then, their brassiere fitting was tested. As a result, the fronts of the basic patterns were found to have such problems as undone front center, poor levelling of upper cups bottom line or lower cups top line, poor shape of upper cups outside top line and shoulder strip position. On the other hand, n the rear side of the basic patterns, the central part of the wing was slightly lifted, while the wing width and straps interval did not befit the full-cup brassiere. The result of this first brassiere fitting test showed that the functionality and aesthetics of the basic pattern brassieres were more or less satisfactory, and thus, the problems were address for the second test. In the second test, the aesthetics, breast-shaping effect and functionality of the basic pattern brassieres were much improved. 2. The basic patterns of adult womens brassieres were characterized by a round cup wired as well as a full cup embracing the entire breasts. Each basic pattern which consisted of upper and lower cups was shaped \"straight(-)\". The basic sizes adopted at the first design stage (see fig. 1-2) was 75A of which was designed as upper foundation basic pattern. At the second stage, the upper body foundation pattern were used to design lower cup, upper cup, front panel and wing in their order.(see fig. 3-5, fig. 8)5, fig. 8)

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.193-202
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was to understand clothing condition of elderly men focusing on somatotype variation and satisfaction with ready-to-wear and to provide basic data in designing ready-to-wrar for the elderly men. The questionnaire method was used and one-to-one interviews were held for the elderly residents in Seoul, Deajon, Jonju, and Yeosu areas. The total of 275 questionnaires (from 148 elderly men in the 60's, 99 in the 70's and 28 in the 80's) were collected and used for statistics. SAS package was used for the statistics and the statistics were based on frequency, X2-test, ANOVA, Duncan's multifle range test. The results of the study were as follows; 1) Height (p< .05), weight (p< .001) and Rohrer index (p< .05) decreased significantly with ageing 2) The somatotypes of 75.6% were changed and the 70's 8t the 80's showed significantly (p< .05) higher changing rate compared to the 60's and more changes took place significantly (p< .001) with ageing. 3) The most preferred out wear was suit & tie and next was jumper or shirt. 4) For the mode of getting suit, the highest number 55.3%) purchased ready-to-wear, next (32.0%) was tailored and the least (12.7%) neither purchased nor tailored. The percentage of buying ready-to-wear significantly (p< .01) decreased with ageing. The main reason for getting tailor-made was not well fitting of ready-to-wear (20.7% out of 32.0%). And for the mode of getting suit, there was significant differance with income (p< .001) and pocket money (p< .01). 5) The most important factors in suit and shirt werefirst, size (fitness) and second, comfort in movement. 6) For the wearing feeling of suit, 55.3% showed discomfort. There was significant difference according to the age (p< .05) and pocket money (p< .05). The Discomfort increased with ageing and less pocket money. 7) 62.4% answered it uneasy to Pick out well fitting If comfortable suit. This showed their dissatisfaction with ready-to-wear. 8) As for the items of not well fitting, 64.4% answered in jacket, 60.8% in trousers, 46.0% in shirt. The above result shows that elderly men's somatotype changes as they age, suit is found uncomfortable and it's not easy for elders to pick out comfortable ready-to-wear. So, they seem to have a certain dissatisfaction in ready to wear. Therefore, there is a need for reorganization of size and developing pattern design according to measurement of elderly men.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제31권5호
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• pp.640-650
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• 2023

This study aimed to suggest a suitable collar pattern by visually evaluating the appearance of the amount of collar drape by the starting position of the lapel line of a double-breasted tailored jacket using a 3d virtual fitting program. It created an avatar based on the mean size of women in their 20s (the 8th Size Korea) using clo network (double fastening: 10cm, collar width: 4.5cm, collar stand: 3cm, and lapel width: 8.5cm). The starting of the lapel twist line was waistline level, the 1/2 level of bustline and waistline, or bustline level, and collar laying amount was 4.5, 5.5, 6.5, or 7.5cm. It was evaluated by garment construction experts using 5, 6, and 4 items on the front, sides, and back, respectively. Descriptive statistics, F-test, Duncan-test, and reliability analysis were conducted using SPSS 22. When collar laying amount was 6.5cm, it was best rated regardless of the starting point. Under waist line, when collar laying amount was 6.5cm, it was best rated regardless of the starting point. When collar laying amount was large, the collar's outline length increased, resulting in unnecessary wrinkles from the neckline to the lapel, affecting the overall collar appearance. When collar laying amount was the smallest, the collar was lifted and the width was narrowed, exposing the seam connecting the collar and neckline. The length of the collar's outline varied depending on collar laying amount, which was important to make the outline sit comfortably on the body.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.157-175
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• 2014

This study aimed to develop appropriate jeans patterns for men in their twenties. The study discovered designs and materials that were most commonly used by investigating preferred jeans brands for men in their twenties, and among them three brands were selected. The study carried out a fitting assessment aimed at research subjects who had the average body type of men in their twenties and who wore jeans of the selected brands. Then, the study designed research patterns by taking as a basic pattern the patterns of the company who received the highest score and modifying any part that revealed a problem. After making the research jeans in twice, a fitting adequacy assessment was undertaken in order to identify any difference between the existing jeans and the research jeans. As a result of the appearance assessment, the problems shown in appearance overall was confirmed to be improved as it received a higher assessment compared with the existing jeans overall. As a result of the fitting assessment, the study collected the assessment results of waist measurement, hip circumference, thigh circumference, and fit of back central line laid slope ease. Based on the result, the study confirmed the parts to be modified and proposed slim fit jeans patterns in consideration of the body type characteristics of men in their twenties.